Ger21

This is why a mini is better than a "thriver". Better consistency for a lot of people.

I answered your question honestly, and you don't like the answer. I can't help that.

I play TE+ in 4&5 irons, and I'm switching them to TS4's, as they are nearly identical in look at address and performance.

I did, six posts before this one.

You're ignoring the most important thing. The weight of the head is all that matters.

Plenty of irons are designed with "pockets of air" for adding weights, and they are not always used. Nothing wrong with it. Again, if the weight is correct, leave them as is. If you fill them just to fill them, you may be adding unnecessary weight, which is definitely the wrong thing to do.

No idea why they are there, but if the head weights are correct, then leaving them as-is is the proper thing to do.

There's no reason to fill the hole, unless you need to add weight to the heads.

If anyone is looking for a headcover for their mini, the Sunfish fairway barrel headcovers are a perfect fit.

Finished my set of fairways with a 5 year old new in plastic 5 wood, the only one I've ever seen on Ebay with a stock 70g shaft. Most came with a 50g shaft. And added a new headcover for the mini driver from Sunfish. Shout out to Sunfish for exceptional customer service.

If you bought a new "hyped up" club, and hit it better than your previous club, would you believe the hype?

I might pay $400 for those, but certainly not $600. I just sold a nearly new set of Bridgestone 220MB's for $600, and it took me two months to sell them.

Just go to Ali Express to see 100 sellers offering fake DF3's.

Back seat of my pickup. Probably not a lot of full size pickups in France, though.

The best electric cars in the world are made in China. And nobody in the US is even aware of them, because if they were sold here, they'd put all the domestic automaker's out of business. We get an inferior product at twice the price.

1) tip weights 2) The closer the better, but it depends on how sensitive you are to the swingweight. I don't even own a swingweight scale. 3) Slower setting is usually stronger. I use Brampton's 20/20 long cure. 4) There shouldn't be much epoxy in the shaft, and I drill it out from the tip. Are you trying to drill it out after assembly? 5) Depends on the shaft balance point, actual head weight, and where you put the tape.

At 57 I went from Dynamic gold to 95g graphite, and played terrible for 2 years. Went back to steel, and started playing great again. This year went to 120 graphite, and it's been a seamless transition. If I were you, I'd try some 105g graphite before going to steel.

.355 Dart V's fit just fine in my TS4's.

Honma TW-X 3 iron. $60 new on Ebay. Been my favorite club in the bag for 3 years now.

Based on what I saw somewhere else, it looks like they may have paused production when 150% tariffs were announced, which may have caused the delay. This is what happened with the TS3.5

That's on my best drives. My average distance with the mini has increased, as I'm more consistent with it.

I'm giving up 10-15 yards from my best drives, and accuracy is greatly improved. Most holes, I'm hitting the same club into greens.

There are numerous posts that explain why, but the anti-mini crowd doesn't seem to want to read them.

This is making the assumption that everyone should be able to hit a driver, and hit it well 14x per round. I've had days where I hit 10 great drives, but the 2 that went in the woods turned a mid-high 70's round into an 81 or 82. Dispersion, and consistency with the mini is much better.

I'm always amazed when a high toe strike gives me a nice high draw that ends up on the green. Fantastic clubs.