Jump to content
2025 Members Choice voting is now open! Vote now for your favorite gear! ×

Lefty Mondegreen

Members
  • Posts

    56
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Lefty Mondegreen's Achievements

17

Reputation

  1. I like CLR to clear out that last bit of corrosion inside. Then the acetone alcohol to clear that out ... acteone in the hosel will soften any lingering epoxy, as well, and don't underestimate the scotchbrite on a drill bit. Finally, roll squares of medium grit sand paper for a roughened finish in your hosel and prepped shaft end (or get the rolls of blue plumbers' sandpaper. Good luck!
  2. That's where the hosel plug would go. I have a piece of steel shaft of the right diameter that I sharpened to use as a punch for aluminum cans. They say to sand the paint/sealant off first. I don't see them for irons, I guess I am the only one using them!! What do they do to the head weight progression? Filling the cavity with epoxy throws off your swing weight and hides the fact that they are there. Golfsmith used to be the standard (and their alumni Maltby and Wishon), but ... kaput. Don't see the weights for sale much any more, but builders must have a source ... Others report success with fishing tackle.
  3. Don't see any pics on line of what I'm looking for ... but sounds like you could have some drilling, if its not just extra machining (do they drill hosels in steps at the factory?) Again, I cap the void to keep stray epoxy out ... but at this point, I wonder if I'm tidy enough to do without the plug, following Howard's method ... There is a thread or three on drilling to lower head weight for longer or lightweight clubs.
  4. Some clubs have "weight ports" in the hosel, TM, Wishon, Maltby, Golfsmith ... but I haven't heard that T100 is one of them. There can be varying depths and tolerances for machining in there below that rim (and drilling can lower head/singweight for overlength builds). Sometimes the shaft comes out clean, and sometimes clean up is needed. It's handy to keep a drill with a brush or drill bit with scotch brite to clear out the hosels as you pull each shaft ... but it doesn't always happen. I use hosel plugs to avoid build up below the rim. Also, unscented, clear hairspray in a pump container can be used to install a grip when time is short. Two hours before tee time is my record.
  5. We've heard all the stories from the assembly line days, wrong shaft, shafts trimmed straight across at a cutting bench, instead of trimmed in the 1/2" (or 9/16"!!) progression, "made for" shafts wildly out of spec .... It's sad that this happens at a place that should offer better (reminds me of the fast talker who installed my windshield using the old broken trim anchors ... whistled like a kettle). My builder who charged $5 a pull moved back to the countryside. So, I have to roll up my sleeves and light up the Bernzomatic, unless I want to interrupt a helpful hard working shop owner with my latest Goodwill find. Have we mentioned the drill/brushes to remove epoxy from the hosel and shaft? Also, some times you'll be pleasantly surprised as heat and drilling breaks down the epoxy with friction once you get in there. https://www.golfworks.com/wire-hosel-cleaning-bits/p/gw0160/ Even if your shaft is clean, make sure to push a tee through any old tape at the grip to make a hole so air pressure can escape. Finally, I love the trick to cut 25 2" squares of shop towel and wet them with rubbing alcohol for easy clean up as you work. Keep digging. Lots to learn here.
×
×
  • Create New...