Ty_Guy

Scottie Scheffler has near the same setup as you, though he uses 105g in the Nippon GOST. 105g is a good driving iron weight for those with iron sets in the 120-130 range. The big three shafts I seem to always see are: AD DI (Hybrid) KBS Prototype Nippon GOST If you prefer firmer handle sections with descending stiffness, KBS and LA Golf are your best bet. AD DI and Nippon will have firm handles but tip sections slightly firmer than middle sections. Where as Ventus Blue is the reverse blueboard--soft handle, stiff tip. Either way, I recommend 105 over 125in a 3u. I bet your "go after it" feeling will go away after moving to 105g.

I'm looking to purchase the current (2023) version of the Cobra King Tec Utility 3 iron. Shaft isn't important but a 105 or 85g LA Golf shaft is what I will eventually install.

There is something special in the higher end 105g graphite shafts. If you can adapt to the slower tempo of dropping 25g, the capabilities of graphite really shine. A smooth transition in low a 90s 7i swing, 120g class graphite will feel VERY firm. Both are going to feel a little odd at first, but stability will be enough in both shafts. The popular 105g graphite shafts like KBS TGI, Axiom, and LA Golf all match up to the stability of 120/130g steel. So, you aren't going to lose anything there. To demo something different, go for the 105. Same weight graphite will feel very similar to what you already have in all regards. When swinging the 105, focus on feeling the different force through impact. When I try 105, it can feel like there is no smash, but when I look at the data, all the ball metrics match up evenly. It's wild feeling like a full swing only has the impact power of a partial wedge shot, but then see the ball fly full swing distance. Tempo and sequence was more controller for me in 105. Though, when I wanted to hit a full GW, it took serious mental effort to up the speed. I was able to but a full attack swing with the GW had a mental block that wasn't there with heavier shafts. I've played 120 Modus, 120 DG, 120 LA Golf, and am now testing 105 LA Golf. Not sold yet, but the unique feel and easier swing is certainly there. Which iron are you going to try the new shaft? I went with GW. It's my favorite and most confident "attack the green club," but the feel I've tried to describe is so novel to me, I need to try it in a mid iron where the default swing is a full one to really get a good idea of the change.

I hope others respond here too in regards to length as we spoke a little in another thread. Numbers will be a bit different if you choose an 11 vs 13.5 mini, but in my experience you will reach about 160 ball speed and the same carry range you see with a well struck 3w. My 13.5 Callaway mini sees 150 ball speed, spinning around 3300, and I expect 240 carry. This is coming from about 103mph mini speed. I drive at 108mph, but do not regularly test swing speed of the mini driver. I do see less spin and a little less carry when hitting a 3w. My 3w ball height sits in the low 80s feet. Mini is quite a bit higher, just below driver height. 3w is off the turf, mini is always off the tee. The low spin of the 3w made it tee only club for me, so the mini felt like a no-brainer replacement. My only complaint with the mini was that it has just one job. I can't deny it works very well, but sometimes I will bump it out for another club. Knock on wood, I use the mini on 3 holes at my course and haven't lost a ball on those holes all season. Data wise, it needs to stay in the bag for me!

That 3u is a workhorse in your bag! Adding a mini may demand changing around other clubs. Just to add another derail in your search, if the 3u is your baby, shifting perspective and gapping from the 3u instead of from the driver may open your eyes to more options. If this "plan B" is appealing, ask yourself: What situations have the 3u not been the best? When it isn't the best, what would you want a different club to do differently? - Carry distance, height, bad lies? I figure non negotiable club roles on the long side of any bag are: 1) Longest off the tee where driver is too dangerous 2) Longest possible off the turf and still able to be an approach shot 3) Longest possible out of poor lies and still able to be an approach shot Sometimes two of these roles can be filled by one club. I've found this role-filling approach is the best way to flesh out that tricky spot in the bag between irons and the driver. What role(s) does the 3u fulfill and which does it not do as well? I think your 43.25" will work out well. Mine was 43.25" and I tried a different shaft for fun. Cut it to stock 43.5", thinking that was what I already had. Both lengths hit their numbers well.

I imagine the 505u 3i and 5w will gap very well together. Even though it's only 2 degrees between the two, the 5w should see ~15 yards more carry with a friendlier decent angle to boot. We got on a tangent from your initial mini situation. To keep it concise, it sound like your mini is performing very well. If you want to go down to 43", I recommend the change only if better ball striking is needed. Otherwise, it sounds like the mini is in a good spot, and the gap below is better addressed with another club. Does your bag currently go Driver, Mini, 3w, 3u, 5i-LW, Putter?

"Penetrating flight and low spin" is a mantra in the golf world that makes 3 woods not really built for amateur play anymore. The HL 16.5 is club manufacturer's band-aid fix to the problem. No need to force a club in the bag that doesn't work. Shafts aren't going to provide the drastic launch and spin change either. No need to continue wasting your time barking up that tree. I'd give the 3HL a try, but a 5w is likely going to be the best "longest off the turf club." Let the mini do what it excels at--a slightly shorter driver with slightly better dispersion. I've spent enough time tweaking clubs into something they don't want to be. It's ended up in lots of fun tinkering, but nothing useful on the course.

There are quite a bit of tools needed to to it perfectly, but if you're happy going back to your local shop for tricky situations, you can get away with a fairly small build setup: General Use: Clamp/vise with rubber shaft holder Painter's tape 48" Ruler with 60 degree block/guide to measure clubs Shaft and Clubhead Prep: Hacksaw w/ 24tpi or finer blade Sandpaper - I use lower grits Drill and bits (a quick sweep around with 5/16 gets out enough old epoxy) Circular Metal file - easy to prep adapters/clubheads Club Install: 24 hour epoxy Grip tape and grips Matching ferrule Assuming you already have a drill, these will be less than $150 and cover nearly all your installs. Most importantly, it will take up very little space. Bits like lead tape are always handy to nail down SW. A heat gun and grip knife utility blade become very useful as you change out grips. You can buy ferrules as needed per project or I'm sure you local shop will sell them for a dollar or two if you need one immediately. This will do everything except for the obvious shaft extraction. Again, spend $220 on a shaft extractor for yourself or bring in a club to your shop and have them pop it off for ~$15. I will build the club, add lead tape to find the SW (if needed), then get it extracted and rebuild with the appropriate tip weight. This process sort of forces me to test SW for a week before committing to the rebuild. Things like removing SW (reaming out clubhead material), smoothing out custom ferrules, shaft shims, and other unique situations is where I would rely on a shop to help or go ahead and dive in and purchase all the club building goodies. Loft and lie bending is a bigger expense. I have not purchased on of these machines and am perfectly happy relying on a shop for this.

I'll echo what @rbpwrx experienced. A mini is such a niche and specific club, it really has to play in that 43-44" range. As it drops below 43", the benefits in the Mini vs 3w argument fall too far in favor of the 3W. For gapping with driver, the 13.5 minis will almost be universally better than the 11 degree ones. Are you using a 13.5 degree mini? If it's adjustable, you can also increase the loft some. Removing .5" length isn't going to have that large of an impact on ball speed. Your current 15-20 yard difference you see is just how a mini plays. When to use it is where the mini shines. It will mainly be a driver replacement for those struggling with driver or an alternate and safer tee club if driver could roll into a hazard. There are a couple holes on every course where a bunker or pond is a bit beyond my driver carry distance but strongly within my driver's total distance with roll. Mini is really good in these situations. Same with those narrower fairways that don't match a driver miss or shot shape.

This is correct. I spoke with Titleist customer service earlier on the same subject: "Based on the information I have available, with stock specs the GT1 has a swingweight of D0 while the GT2/3 have a swingweight of D3. This is due to the GT1 having a lighter stock shaft and grip, not any difference in headweight between the models. Additionally, a swingweight is 2 grams. So, the +6-weight setting, using stock GT1 specs would increase the swingweight to the stock GT2/3 weight, but this would more than likely not be necessary if using a shaft similar in weight to the stock shaft of the GT2/3 Hybrid in the GT1 model."

Do you know if users still have app access after the first year?

I’m more interested in how each system implements their program and usage instead of the merits of speed training. Swinging driver as fast as possible has its benefits and is likely an excellent way to test and maintain any speed gained through both speed and weight training.

What shaft weight have you found the best success with your 7w? I initially tried my GT2 with a 70g but it really came alive when I switched to 80g. I first tried all my woods with the same 70-75g shaft weights, and have used that for a year. After trying the 80g in the 7w, my setup has shifted to the approximate plus 5-10g per inch of club length lost. Mini 43.5" and 3w 43" 70g 5w 42.25" 75g 7w 41.5" 85g

I just purchased a PRGR monitor here and am looking to pick up one of the swing speed systems. They are all very similar, so I'm hoping for advice on which have the best apps and which are easiest to use/change weights. All the below options have "single stick solutions": Rypstick ($200) 1 month app free, $60/year there after (basic data and training remains free) Super Speed ($200) 1 Year app free, $100/year there after (basic data and training remains free) Stack System ($300) 1 year app free, $100/year there after (Do not know if basic data remains free) Speed Toad ($125) App free forever with device purchase Making some assumptions, it looks like SuperSpeed and Stack both require a driver tool to change weights. The Toad would just live on an extra shaft. Rypstick look the easiest to physically change weights--no tool needed. Again, mostly minor differences, so it really comes down to the app and it's data and ease of use.

I love it. I did a casual fitting the other day for the GT2 7w, comparing it to 3 different heads over two fittings. All just in stock stiff or regular shafts. Idea being I want this to be an extremely easy clubhead to hit without any thought or effort. Tried all the major brands except Ping. Same setup with the 65 Tensei Blue beat out everything. I compared one 7w model from each brand--sometimes the low spin, sometimes the max. Callaway's TD came the closest, but nothing felt as solid through contact as the GT2. I installed an 80g shaft in there and it's been a wonderful club. In fact, I'm so happy with it, I plan to compare my 5w to Titleist's offerings next time I'm at the shop.