HJK60

@Howard_Jones I have one last question: if you wanted to plug the hole - I get that you don't have to - but if you wanted to, how would you do it?

Ok, so because the shaft is longer / weighs more you need to lighten the head. So those heads are called b wgt heads. Cool. Also interesting stuff. Edit- actually I think I have that wrong. Feel like you'd want a heavier head in an over length build to get a proper swingweight (proper being whatever the player wants obviously, but feel that a light head on a longer/heavier shaft would give you a sw of like B0 or something). You are not part of Ger and I's dumb back and forth. I thought he was done but seems to want to keep it going.

Yes, and I thanked you for it and added a question about what B wgt is. I was talking about user Ger. I just had a hack botch my build so decided to do it myself and this is exactly why I am doing it myself because I will be the only one who will do it right. I may screw something up the first or second time but I will eventually get it right. And I'm trying to ask questions and do my research. Thank you for the detailed explanation. I wondered for a second if the tech at club champ was the one that drilled the two hosels but luckily I table weighed the heads before I brought them there and the weights haven't changed. So I must've just missed these two holes in the 8 and pw until I got the heads back dissembled post botched build.

Thanks Howard. Appreciate the details. Interesting stuff. Edit- looks like B-wgt means bushwacker weight? Is that just another way of saying table weight, or basically how much the head weighs on just a normal scale? Like a kitchen scale? Little lost there because you say weight for standard, but too low for B-wgt... If u wouldn't mind clarifying. And yep, I wasn't worried about the tip going too far down, it was just about leaving that hole there with the tip installed. Ger you didn't answer anything. Had plenty of "teachers" like this in the past.

Yeah there are ~7g differences between each. All weights are fine. Just wicked confused about what is up with this 8 and wedge. I might just try and find another 8 and wedge head honestly. There is no way you just leave the gaping 1/4-1/2" hole between the shaft and the final bottom of the hosel. Epoxy will drip down it regardless, or the head isn't as durable... something has to give. It doesn't make sense. If they made weights for this stuff I would get it, but they don't. So it's like it's a hole for tungsten powder / epoxy or something like that.

Did u come from club champ too? Sheesh pal

Why not just say "I don't know why they're there" edit: you already did. but we still don't know why they're there in only the 8 and pw. I guess I'm just looking for someone to chime in that has seen this before and can tell me what to do. Leaving it as it just doesn't seem right and I am particular.

I mean....you just said above that you didn't know why they were there. And why are they there in only two of my irons. Not trying to argue, just saying.

But structurally speaking there is a pocket of air there. That can't be right.

Got it, but I mean, why are they even there? It's like someone drilled them in order to have a weight in there. But it's only the wedge and 8. Still overall confused about it. I don't feel that leaving it is the right way to do it?

Thanks man. Real quick, what is CLR? And was going to use a pick to get all of the epoxy out of the head (with Acetone per your recommendation...maybe even some heat?) and use a sandpaper drill bit to roughen up/clean inside of the hosel too. The shaft tips are already prepped and ready to go. Just have to dry fit and cut the 4-iron shaft. Running over to PGA T Superstore real quick to ensure I have this playing length thing figured out. And I'd like them to measure the other shafts just to ensure consistency. I have all my tools coming in tomorrow (rulers, etc.), but I can't wait. The 6-iron shaft is a hair bent as mentioned earlier and I have the new one coming in tomorrow (uncut and not prepped), so am going to build my 6 with the bent shaft as-is as a test run and see how we do. I figure I have to pull that shaft anyway. Please advise: I still am a bit lost on what to do with these 8 and PW heads with those deep gaps. I wasn't quite understanding anyone's reply with that. The plugs you guys mentioned are just caps, they're not actually plugs. I don't like the idea of leaving dead air between the bottom of the shaft and that quarter inch/half inch gap in the lower part of the hosel. I feel like I have to fill it, but I can't find anything pertaining to "hosel weight plugs" either. The only thing I can think of is to put epoxy in there, or mix it with tungsten and forget the shaft tip weights for those clubs. How else are you going to fill that hole?

Thanks again for all the help. Yep, so I just ordered: - wire brushes (drill bit style) - shaft length ruler with 60 deg stop at the bottom per usga conformity standards ^I will dry fit all shafts in their respective head before cutting. If adding a swing weight, I will dry fit with weight in the shaft, then cut. Butt of grip also adds 1/8 of an inch, so will cut an 1/8 below what I want, or I may leave that part out. Mentally I almost like the idea of the shaft/head being true to length with no grip. - brass shaft tip weights (.355 in 2 grams sets and 4 gram sets - 12 pack for each) - ferrule installation tool - ferrules (.875 length and .570 OD) - I did buy some quick center and am going to mix with epoxy Off to Home Depot to get: - epoxy (EW guy sent me a pic of the 3M stuff they use) - epoxy sticks/cups - acetone I have: - drill/bits - butane torch - heat gun Once done, am going to take to a shop to have them sand the ferrules and turn if needed. Don't see how you could accurately do this manually with some sandpaper being held or without a table grinder, which I don't have. Anything I'm missing? Luckily, I already know - roughly, but pretty accurately - what the swing weights will be. Remember I just pulled these from a bad build and knew the swing weights there. I need to cut this 4-iron shaft I'm getting in the mail today, so will dry fit that to my 4-iron head with a 2-g shaft tip weight (might go 4g in the 4, 5, and 6-irons), then cut... I don't have my ruler yet so am taking a quick trip over to the shop to have them measure the current shafts. 6-iron shaft is also on its way so will redo that club when I get it.

This is the other head (8i) like the wedge. Has that same deep gap after the ridge. It's looks like a half an inch. None of the other heads except the wedge and 8i are like this. What do I do with this?

Alright, can you chime in here? So this is what I was talking about with my wedge. This and another iron is like this. I forget which one. See how deep this looks? What do I put down there, because the shaft doesn't go far enough down, so there'll be a pocket of air there. Do I just fill it with epoxy? And here's two shots of normal heads, same set obviously:

Thanks dude. Didn't realize there were two different ferrule tools. I switched it from the collared one to the standard one (black writing on the side instead of red). I'm going to dry fit the ferrules first. I guess if you nail it, there's no turning down needed, only sanding. A part of me feels I'm over-complicating this... and yeah I axed the drill bit too. I actually just drilled out the epoxy in my X100s and did it with a small bit at first, then went up a bit. The shafts are clear. Also found my 6i shaft to be ever so slightly bent. I think I'm going to orient that one opposite of flexion for the time being while I get one in the mail. It's very, very slight. So you're saying the shaft should just center itself with the epoxy around it? It would really irk me if it's off a hair. I want it to be perfect. When I dry fit the club, it feels pretty snug as-is so I see what you're saying. Will probably buy the ram rod because I was thinking of old epoxy breaking off in the shaft post-assembly. That would drive me nuts, especially if it happened mid-round. I feel the brushed wire tip would really take care of that too. I drilled out the epoxy without heating it up....? I still need the brass weights, epoxy, and ferrules. Other than that I mean I think I'm good. I can use a pair of hand clamps to hold the face to the edge of my bench while I insert the shaft. That's what she said.