HJK60

@Howard_Jones I have one last question: if you wanted to plug the hole - I get that you don't have to - but if you wanted to, how would you do it?

Ok, so because the shaft is longer / weighs more you need to lighten the head. So those heads are called b wgt heads. Cool. Also interesting stuff. Edit- actually I think I have that wrong. Feel like you'd want a heavier head in an over length build to get a proper swingweight (proper being whatever the player wants obviously, but feel that a light head on a longer/heavier shaft would give you a sw of like B0 or something). You are not part of Ger and I's dumb back and forth. I thought he was done but seems to want to keep it going.

Yes, and I thanked you for it and added a question about what B wgt is. I was talking about user Ger. I just had a hack botch my build so decided to do it myself and this is exactly why I am doing it myself because I will be the only one who will do it right. I may screw something up the first or second time but I will eventually get it right. And I'm trying to ask questions and do my research. Thank you for the detailed explanation. I wondered for a second if the tech at club champ was the one that drilled the two hosels but luckily I table weighed the heads before I brought them there and the weights haven't changed. So I must've just missed these two holes in the 8 and pw until I got the heads back dissembled post botched build.

Thanks Howard. Appreciate the details. Interesting stuff. Edit- looks like B-wgt means bushwacker weight? Is that just another way of saying table weight, or basically how much the head weighs on just a normal scale? Like a kitchen scale? Little lost there because you say weight for standard, but too low for B-wgt... If u wouldn't mind clarifying. And yep, I wasn't worried about the tip going too far down, it was just about leaving that hole there with the tip installed. Ger you didn't answer anything. Had plenty of "teachers" like this in the past.

Yeah there are ~7g differences between each. All weights are fine. Just wicked confused about what is up with this 8 and wedge. I might just try and find another 8 and wedge head honestly. There is no way you just leave the gaping 1/4-1/2" hole between the shaft and the final bottom of the hosel. Epoxy will drip down it regardless, or the head isn't as durable... something has to give. It doesn't make sense. If they made weights for this stuff I would get it, but they don't. So it's like it's a hole for tungsten powder / epoxy or something like that.

Did u come from club champ too? Sheesh pal

Why not just say "I don't know why they're there" edit: you already did. but we still don't know why they're there in only the 8 and pw. I guess I'm just looking for someone to chime in that has seen this before and can tell me what to do. Leaving it as it just doesn't seem right and I am particular.

I mean....you just said above that you didn't know why they were there. And why are they there in only two of my irons. Not trying to argue, just saying.

But structurally speaking there is a pocket of air there. That can't be right.

Got it, but I mean, why are they even there? It's like someone drilled them in order to have a weight in there. But it's only the wedge and 8. Still overall confused about it. I don't feel that leaving it is the right way to do it?

Thanks man. Real quick, what is CLR? And was going to use a pick to get all of the epoxy out of the head (with Acetone per your recommendation...maybe even some heat?) and use a sandpaper drill bit to roughen up/clean inside of the hosel too. The shaft tips are already prepped and ready to go. Just have to dry fit and cut the 4-iron shaft. Running over to PGA T Superstore real quick to ensure I have this playing length thing figured out. And I'd like them to measure the other shafts just to ensure consistency. I have all my tools coming in tomorrow (rulers, etc.), but I can't wait. The 6-iron shaft is a hair bent as mentioned earlier and I have the new one coming in tomorrow (uncut and not prepped), so am going to build my 6 with the bent shaft as-is as a test run and see how we do. I figure I have to pull that shaft anyway. Please advise: I still am a bit lost on what to do with these 8 and PW heads with those deep gaps. I wasn't quite understanding anyone's reply with that. The plugs you guys mentioned are just caps, they're not actually plugs. I don't like the idea of leaving dead air between the bottom of the shaft and that quarter inch/half inch gap in the lower part of the hosel. I feel like I have to fill it, but I can't find anything pertaining to "hosel weight plugs" either. The only thing I can think of is to put epoxy in there, or mix it with tungsten and forget the shaft tip weights for those clubs. How else are you going to fill that hole?

Thanks again for all the help. Yep, so I just ordered: - wire brushes (drill bit style) - shaft length ruler with 60 deg stop at the bottom per usga conformity standards ^I will dry fit all shafts in their respective head before cutting. If adding a swing weight, I will dry fit with weight in the shaft, then cut. Butt of grip also adds 1/8 of an inch, so will cut an 1/8 below what I want, or I may leave that part out. Mentally I almost like the idea of the shaft/head being true to length with no grip. - brass shaft tip weights (.355 in 2 grams sets and 4 gram sets - 12 pack for each) - ferrule installation tool - ferrules (.875 length and .570 OD) - I did buy some quick center and am going to mix with epoxy Off to Home Depot to get: - epoxy (EW guy sent me a pic of the 3M stuff they use) - epoxy sticks/cups - acetone I have: - drill/bits - butane torch - heat gun Once done, am going to take to a shop to have them sand the ferrules and turn if needed. Don't see how you could accurately do this manually with some sandpaper being held or without a table grinder, which I don't have. Anything I'm missing? Luckily, I already know - roughly, but pretty accurately - what the swing weights will be. Remember I just pulled these from a bad build and knew the swing weights there. I need to cut this 4-iron shaft I'm getting in the mail today, so will dry fit that to my 4-iron head with a 2-g shaft tip weight (might go 4g in the 4, 5, and 6-irons), then cut... I don't have my ruler yet so am taking a quick trip over to the shop to have them measure the current shafts. 6-iron shaft is also on its way so will redo that club when I get it.

This is the other head (8i) like the wedge. Has that same deep gap after the ridge. It's looks like a half an inch. None of the other heads except the wedge and 8i are like this. What do I do with this?

Alright, can you chime in here? So this is what I was talking about with my wedge. This and another iron is like this. I forget which one. See how deep this looks? What do I put down there, because the shaft doesn't go far enough down, so there'll be a pocket of air there. Do I just fill it with epoxy? And here's two shots of normal heads, same set obviously:

Thanks dude. Didn't realize there were two different ferrule tools. I switched it from the collared one to the standard one (black writing on the side instead of red). I'm going to dry fit the ferrules first. I guess if you nail it, there's no turning down needed, only sanding. A part of me feels I'm over-complicating this... and yeah I axed the drill bit too. I actually just drilled out the epoxy in my X100s and did it with a small bit at first, then went up a bit. The shafts are clear. Also found my 6i shaft to be ever so slightly bent. I think I'm going to orient that one opposite of flexion for the time being while I get one in the mail. It's very, very slight. So you're saying the shaft should just center itself with the epoxy around it? It would really irk me if it's off a hair. I want it to be perfect. When I dry fit the club, it feels pretty snug as-is so I see what you're saying. Will probably buy the ram rod because I was thinking of old epoxy breaking off in the shaft post-assembly. That would drive me nuts, especially if it happened mid-round. I feel the brushed wire tip would really take care of that too. I drilled out the epoxy without heating it up....? I still need the brass weights, epoxy, and ferrules. Other than that I mean I think I'm good. I can use a pair of hand clamps to hold the face to the edge of my bench while I insert the shaft. That's what she said.

Easier to break this up... 1) Do I need head plugs of some sort for those clubs I told you about that look like they have deeper than normal holes in the hosel? Or do I just put epoxy down there? Or do nothing with it? 2) Epoxy goes inside the head hosel, on the swing weight, and a little on the prepped tip, correct? 3) Will the shaft only go so far into the hosel? Is it best to let the shaft seat fully into the bottom (no epoxy there, only on the in-sides (literally) of the hosel and around the shaft tip? 4) Best practice on how to orient clubs to dry?

Thanks brother. I have a cart going on golfworks as we speak... This thread is going to end with me building my own irons and taking apart my wedges/woods and rebuilding them. At this point I don't trust anybody but myself. I even just went out to my garage and looked at an old set of shelf-bought 712 MB's and wouldn't you know the 6 and 7 iron shafts are not centered...albeit maybe years of use there. But I feel that would affect lie, not the shaft being off center.... Anyways... ***if anyone has any serious tips or tricks, please, please share them. For ex lefty above saying to poke a hole in grip tape, not for solvent, but for air to escape is a good one. Would have never thought of that. I went through hell regripping my clubs with solvent from PGA Tour Superstore, for example. The stuff just doesn't dry. Finally ended up using mineral spirits and my grip spinning issue went away completely. I'm talking about stupid stuff like that. Guys that have ran into dumb problems that have ran you up a wall until you figured it out. Please share. tools (gonna hit home depot tomorrow) 1) hosel wire brushes (drill bit form) 2) HSS drill bit 12" 1/8 size (the grips are all off as-is (incl. tape) so should make epoxy drilling in the shaft easy) ^Any thoughts on drilling/"grooving" the inside of the shaft by accident? Thoughts on using bare drill bit inside the head / problems there? 3) quick center (anyone have an opinion on this over glass shafting beads? There are two options on the site). - need to 1-day this from golfworks. ^Anyone free handing this part with just epoxy? 4) mixing cups 6) high density tungsten powder and brass shaft weights (thinking of doing 2g weights with a bit of powder for 4-7 irons) - 1-day shipping these on golfworks 7) collared ferrule tool and ferrules - 1-day shipping these on golfworks This thread is going to end with pics of my clubs assembled in DIY fashion. Turning down the ferrules will be tricky but I have an idea. I mean, I'm almost positive I can do a better job than the guy at CC, and this time I'll be putting my DG X100's in my T100 heads. The DG's are not pured so I don't have to worry about orientation...right? other notes: EW has in store lie/loft machine they let public use with a few bucks. good there.

Right, so I should clarify. I'm talking about some of the heads looking like there is another inch long hole after that rim where the shaft would stop. So call it two inches total. And some of the heads look like there is a base there and the whole thing is just a little over an inch deep. The epoxy is all drilled out for sure, there just seems to be another deep hole in two of the heads versus the rest. It's hard to explain. And yeah I've heard that. You're being generous with 2 hours. That thing is ready to rip in 30 minutes with mineral spirits.

I do have another question...and am going to use a tooth/root canal analogy to explain it. When I got the heads back from EW today, some of the heads (in the hosel) looked like they had total root canals, and others looked like the epoxy was just drilled out and the base ("root") was still there. Does this make sense? Like, some of the hosels looked deep, while others had that "base"...unless that was just epoxy too. There does look to be a slight rim to prevent the shaft from going all the way down the clubhead, if that makes sense. So maybe some of them he just got all of the epoxy out (the root canal), and others he just pulled the tooth (epoxy drilled out only to the "rim" where the shaft eventually stops). I will post pics if ya'll need.

Appreciate this man. Lots of good tips and tricks here. Would've never thought of the air pressure after putting on a head / grip. Only have heard people doing that to get grip solvent out faster and drying faster. That's where this all started for me about a year ago...doing my grips. I was using the PGA tour superstore grip solvent and it doesn't dry fast at all. No joke you need to wait like a week with the new stuff there. Spent close to a grand trying different grips because I wanted something close to a TV midsize because I couldn't get the TV midsize to stop spinning near the butt. Drove me nuts. Finally bought some mineral spirits and never had the problem again.

It's all good man. Live and learn. I just got back from EW. The guy at EW was awesome. Didn't even charge me he felt so bad. I threw him 20 bucks. Lifetime customer earned. What we learned is my 7-iron was shorter than my 8-iron and was tipped. And, they tried corking the 7i shaft instead of taking the head off to get the swing weight up from that D1-ish number. Guy at EW thinks someone maybe mixed the shafts up during install and tried tipping one or the other. I'm not sure. I didn't quite follow him there. Anyways we come to find out they ordered the wrong shaft (because it was parallel tipped, as I understand it - and just from looking at it), and they cut it a half inch too short, so it was actually a hair shorter than my 8i shaft. This had to of happened maybe a week ago (when I had to order the 7i shaft, because that's the shaft I was missing from the set - the C-tapers were resurrected because I've been missing the 7i shaft for ~5 years), but just learned this today with the shafts finally pulled / for me to see with no heads. Just an overall diabolical/rare situation. But I've learned a ton. I did go back today around 5:30 and just explained everything (I brought the shafts in and showed them the tip of the 7i and how it was actually shorter than the 8i). Guy tried giving me a hard time again, but ultimately, I am getting my $160 back and they are going to re-order an uncut, pure'd 7i length C-taper. Which is still a complete waste of my $180 I paid for that (want to clarify I didn't repay for this, he just ordered the correct 7i this time). But, dignity = intact, wallet = slightly lighter.

Thanks all for the help. Did not expect this level of detail. Just a quick story for all of you below. This happened today. I feel bad about this one. I went to Club Champion to put my C-Tapers in my T100 heads. Upon picking them up, we learned he didn't orient the shafts correctly (the shafts are pured), and the 8-iron is in the hosel at a very obvious acute angle, with an almost diagonal ferrule. Swing weight of the 7-iron was D1.2, 9-iron was D5.1 and the rest of the clubs were around D3.5. The 4-iron was the only club he nailed in terms of swing weight and shaft orientation/ferrule grinding. After about 10-minutes of chatting about this or that, the other kid working there said he'd take care of the 7-iron and 9-iron (the ones that were way off in swing weight) and I could come back later today to pick those up. We kind of agree'd that the few where the shafts weren't seated in line with the pure line were splitting hairs (the faces were a little open when squared), so I just kind of hung my hat on those few clubs and took it on the chin. My favorite line from the guy was "what's square to you may look closed or open to me." Then the kid offered to check lies and lofts. All was going OK there until he put my wedge in thinking it was my 9, and bent my wedge from 45 to 40 degrees, then goes "whoops, that was your wedge." At this point I'm just like, what is happening...But I decided to leave my 7 and 9 for the kid to re-shaft and re-weight them, shook his hand and walked out. No arguments, no raising voices or anything, just a sort of vibe like "hey man, you really f*cked this up" and "we know it's f*cked up, but we aren't going to apologize or admit anything to you." Then when I got to my car, I remembered I forgot to ask for a refund for a different shaft I ordered with them (another mistake, they overcharge on shafts). So I walk back in.... the same kid that just shook my hand and said he'd do it right... is in the simulator just banging balls. I can't make this up. Maybe they were all high? I went straight to Edwin Watts to have them look at the clubs I did have. That's when we discovered the 8-iron wasn't even in the hosel correctly and the swing weights were all off. So, I decide that the whole set was a wash, and drove back to Club C to get the 7 and 9. When I walked in... the guy didn't even acknowledge me after I politely said "hey [name] I'm just gonna grab the rest of my clubs" ... Guy straight up didn't even look at me. I didn't make a scene about it, walked into the build room, grabbed my clubs, and just quietly walked out. No one tried to stop me, nothing. Look, no one really wins in this situation, but I am $160 cash in the hole. I'm not here to knock anyone, but man this one felt weird. I really felt like I got screwed. Learning is expensive. I mean this was crazy. I mean, are there really people out there like this? I don't want to make this sound like an advertisement but I did take them to some guys I trust at Edwin Watts to pull the shafts again, drill epoxy, save grips, and clean heads. I will report back with their findings - he said he'll have them done by this evening. I hope nothings bent or something bad like that. I should've just went there first, but got impatient because their builder was on vacation. Anyways, sheesh. Had to share that one. I was really cool about the whole thing. Have to give myself a pat on the back there. Most people would've blown their top off. I'm not one of those guys, but a part of me just can't believe there are people out there like this. And honestly it's my mistake for going there in the first place, but sometimes you get that bubbly warm feeling and think things will be all sunshine and rainbows until you're $160 in the hole with nothing to show for it. I gave them the benefit of the doubt and got screwed. s*** happens, but this was too weird not to share.

Hi all, I have some straightforward yes/no questions and some not so straightforward questions. Any help is greatly appreciated. 1) To get a club to a certain swing weight, what is your preference on how to add weight? I recently had an iron set built, and the builder added tungsten powder to the epoxy in the head, which I feel like is really the best way to do it. Do shaft weights not affect flexion? 2) In terms of swing weight, is the number supposed to be "dead on"? For example, if you had an iron come in at D4.67, would you call that a D5 club? How close can you really get? 3) Is there such a thing as "slow-setting epoxy"? Why use that over..."fast-setting" (?) 4) Can you get all of the epoxy out of a shaft without taking the grip off? Would you just need a long/thin drill bit? 5) With lead tape, a 4" long piece of 1/2" wide lead tape equals one full swing weight point, correct? Thanks in advance... for those wondering, I put 130g C-Taper Xstiff shafts into my 2021 T100 heads. ~D5 swing weight. This was really the first time I dove into the building ins-and-outs and the builder has been really cool with me. I just don't want to bother him too much. Hank