GolferTodd

Im on team 46 deg SM10 or equivalent bent to 47 if you wanted. But I think that specialty wedge is always gonna be a little shorter than a set pitching wedge even at the same degree just because your pitching wedge probably has more mass on the face even if you're playing blades. All of these wedges like the SM tens or any retail specialty wedge it's like a super blade with much less weight behind it than even my MP-37 PW which has considerably more meat than my 50 deg SM10 and easily covers. Since the build of a 46° would be the same as that of a 50° you could see that the specialty wedge would still have less mass most likely. I'm actually thinking of replacing my 46° set Mp37 PW and 50 deg SM10 with a 48 degree SM10 to open up a space for another club in my long game.

What is the loft of your five wood? I have a 19° five wood, but I see that some people consider this is seven wood. I have the same gap between my three wood and 19° wood of in-determinant name (except my 3+ wood is 13 deg). Also, what is the length in shaft differentiation between your seven wood and your four hybrid? I just purchased a 24° "5" Hybrid Elyte and I added 0.75 inch custom order which I'm starring to think might be too much and will put it at too close to a gap to my 19° wood.

Whats the distance gap between your 25H and 5i? I just ordered an Elyte 5H to replace my 4 iron (24 deg) so I will be in pretty much the same situation.

I ordered an Elyte 5H 24 deg Denaili Charcoal S with +0.75 length. How is this gonna affect the swing weight of my club and does Callaway customs account for this and change other things to make the swing weight the same (D2) is their Elyte set weight? I wanted to add the extra +0.75 length because I view a 24° head as really being a four hybrid, and I am replacing my four iron with it. I was thinking that I can always get it cut down if it doesn't work for me, but if Callaway calibrated it custom would cutting it down, thus make it no longer "stable"?

I'm doing the same thing to replace my 4i, with a 5H. I wish that the lofts were more reflective of traditional lofts but not a huge deal. I custom ordered it from Callaway to add 3/4 inch to the shaft to make it more similar to a 4H length.

Mizuno MP:37 2 Iron 3 Iron 4 Iron Odyssey OG White Hot Center Shafted 2 Ball Putter Odyssey 3 Ball SRT Putter Cleveland CG15 52 deg DSG Wedge Callaway Forged 60 deg Lob Wedge (circa 2003) - my first adult club ever (will never throw away, memories of my grandfather) Callaway FT5 Driver R shaft Nike Ignite 460 Driver R flex 4-PW Cleveland CG4 Irons R Taylormade Burner Hybrid 22 deg

Agree with this 100%, a dedicated bladed wedge will always offer better partial pitch shots than a set attack wedge, even if youre using blade or players muscleback irons. The leading edge is just different and all the bounce and tread options. I have a 50 deg SM10 with an an S300 just like my MP37 iron set and its taken pitching wedge chipping out of my game completely.

Im learning after rebuilding my bag from highschool golfer 15 years ago to now and im starting to notice WRX is the way to go. I ordered my SM10's 50deg and 54 deg with project x rifles 6.0 -0.25 inch, -0.5 inch, and wrx Opus 60 deg px rifle 6.0 -1 inch. Just WRXed a "5" hybrid Callaway Elyte (24 deg) to gap 19 deg 5 wood and 5 iron. Ordered +.0.75 so its more of a true 4 hybrid as its loft suggests

9 deg Taylormade Stealth 2+, HZRDS Black 60g 6.0, 3.5 deg

Replacing my 4 iron Mizuno MP37 4 iron (24 deg) with a Callaway Elyte "5" Hybrid 24 deg that I ordered at +3/4 inch to fit the idea that I consider it to be a 4 hybrid because the loft. Its gapping a 19 degree high launching 5 wood and my 5 iron, which I can hit 210 (I live in Denver) and the 5 wood 250. This hybrid should be the perfect gap and its so configurable that if it goes too far I can always loft it up to trim.

My Bag goes Driver (9deg Stealth 2+ HZRDS 6.0), 3+ Wood (13 deg R9 S Fubuki), 19 deg 5 wood (s Kuro Kage). Disclaimer, * I live and play at altitude in Denver. There is a huge gap between my 5 wood (250yds) and 5 iron (210 yrs) and I am thinking of getting a Callaway Elyte 5 hybrid at 24 deg stock at +3/4 inch. I want it to be more like a four hybrid in length, but a five hybrid in loft and if I extend the shaft, I'll be able to fix the lie also. I see this as the perfect club to cover the gap between 250 and 210. I have a Taylormade Burner 22 degree with a R flex and it goes 240 and I need to re shaft it because of how bad it balloons. It's odd but at altitude if your ball balloons sometimes it goes really far because of the carry at altitude, and it to the point where they are too similar to have both in the bag (240yd vs 250yd). I've decided to stick with the five wood for sure because it is an excellent club that I've had for a long time and I wanna build around that rather than the burner 22 deg. With the adjustability of the lie (Elyte 5 Hybrid), be able to compensate for adding the extra three-quarter inch, it'll have a longer length at a high loft, just like the Heavenwood is +1 inch. I'm honestly thinking of it more as a small fairway wood at this point which it pretty much is to be honest. I've hit the 3,4,5 hybrid all w Denali 70 S of the Elyte on launch monitor so I have a general idea of what I can expect in yardage with the variable of extra length. Anyways, I just thought I would share because it's rather odd combination. I haven't seen really anyone else with this type of club and I wanted to know if anyone else has the same solution. The adjustability is so dynamic that there's a almost 0 way that I can't tune it to go 230 either by increasing the loft if it does happen to go further which I doubt it will because it's already 5° higher than the five wood, which also is a wood versus a hybrid in terms of distance and power generation. If it's too short, I can always decrease the loft by a degree and that's what having an extra three-quarter inch to make it more like a four hybrid would come in. Does anyone have a similar type situation?

Wow, this seems very extensive in detail and I appreciate you taking the time to post this. I haven't fully digested it. I have just seen it, but from what I can see there are a lot of related phenomenon that I can help you to train my brain to track my golf ball better. Thank you for this very very insightful post. Like I said, I obviously haven't fully digested it yet, but I will look into those methods 100%.

I'm finally getting back into form and to the point where I am hitting shots flush about a third of the time and I'm starting to get an idea of my distances after 15 years off of golf. I noticed the weirdest thing at the range, I hit my Cleveland CG4 which I retrofitted with a stiff Kuro Kage shaft +1 length and I also have my next club up, my Mizuno MP37 blade 5 iron S300 standardb everything. I was finding that when I flushed them, I hit them equally as far. It made me question the validity of having the driving iron instead of a 4 iron hybrid because there's no point of having two clubs that go the same distance. But I'm just intrigued because it feels like I can swing the CG4 much faster and the shaft has considerable amount of low tip whip but maybe the feeling was just an illusion and the shaft maybe is too much of a high launch and not stiff enough shaft? The Kuro Kage S shaft honestly feels in hand like an R flex stock shaft with super high launch. I would say that I was hitting them both around 210 went flushed but I had much tighter dispersion with the five iron S 300. My next club down in the bag is a 19° titanium Cleveland Launcher 5 wood that I hit around 250. Mind you I am in Denver, so the distances are much higher than my swing speed would account for. I was messing around at golf Galaxy hitting the Elyte Driver and my swing speeds were around the 110 mph range. I wanted the 4 driving iron to be the 230 club. I am now looking into replacing the 4 iron with a 23-24 degree hybrid to fill 230 approach. Does anyone have any thoughts or as to why the two clubs went the same distance? The CG4 is a massive cavity back game improvement, very stereotypical driving type iron with a lot of weight on the lower cavity mass. I'm honestly shocked that the puny blade five iron went the same distance. Any help would be appreciated!

I actually worked for a surgical retinal ophthalmologist for a year, and I got a dilated exam of my retina just because it was free, and they said that my retina was fully attached and looked completely healthy, no signs of anything pathological going on other than myopia. My myopia has stayed between -3.25 and np-3.50 for the past 10 years so I'm still not convinced that it's a pure vision thing and it is more of a brain problems so to speak. My ability to track fast, flying objects may just not be the sharpest even with perfectly corrected vision without any retina problems.

I use a 19 degree 5 wood (old Cleveland Launcher TI). Its very similar to a 7 wood. It has a very small head for a fairway wood. It flies very high and can land on soft greens and stay if I hit it accurately. Then I have a 24 degree Cleveland CG4 Cavity Back, very very thick topline. Its a standard 4 iron (24 deg) that I reshafted with a kuro kage black stiff at 1/2 inch longer than a normal 4 iron as a driving iron. I think I regret shafting for iron and should've opted for a 4i hybrid instead. The distance different between the titanium 19° wood and the driving 4 iron with graphite shaft is around 20 yards. But if I end up getting a hybrid 4 then I'll just have the same gap issues with my five iron. It always seems like 15 clubs should be absolutely perfect and it's so frustrating having to choose one club to get rid of.

I am 31 year old male

I will start off by saying that I wear contacts and I am correctable to 20/20 vision so I don't think that this is something related to my eyesight, however, sometimes I hit a golf ball and I do not see it at all, and I have absolutely no idea where it went even if it felt good like I hit it on the middle of the face. I just lose it in the air completely. Do those special golf sunglasses really work because on so many shots I have to ask my partners if they saw where it went and it gets to the point where I think it kind of annoys them however, it's the only way I can track my ball sometimes and I'm not talking just if you're hitting it into the sun it's hard to see but even in ideal conditions I have trouble tracking my golf ball. Does anyone have any advice on how I could maybe mitigate this? I wear sunglasses (standard ray ban green) and I have the problem whether I wear sunglasses or do not wear sunglasses. It causes me to lose a lot of golf balls and it's becoming expensive and I'm willing to pay for a nice set of golfing sunglasses that increased contrast if they actually work.

Oh good to know. Unfortunately, I still think it's gonna be too expensive for my current budget. It's more of a dream than a reality to be honest, unfortunately lol. I've already spent so much on golf equipment this year after a 15 year layoff from golf. I've had to get a new bag because squirrels entered my garage and absolutely tore up my bag because I had some almonds in there and I wasn't about to use that bag ever again lol. It was disgusting, I had to throw away my towel and my head covers and everything because they were rotted and Lord knows that you can't get a head cover for less than $30 except if you did what I did and just got the cheapest pair of head covers on Amazon, which are actually really nice much nicer than I anticipated. After not being in golf for 15 years, the inflation of golf equipment is absolutely boggled my mind. I remember getting my Callaway FT5 driver for $400 and at that time that was the premium offering.

Isnt that only for Callaway trade ins?

No, its just a pure assumption that the R9 being 10 years old is most likely shorter than the Elyte TI. The R90 also has a decent amount of wear and im sure the face isnt perfect anymore, plus adding 1 inch, all assumptions that gains would come.

No, its just a pure assumption that the R9 being 10 years old is most likely shorter than the Elyte TI.

Agreed if I had the cash, I would buy it today. I want to upgrade from my TM R9 13 deg 3+ wood.

Yeah, I'll have to find out and see but that's a nice thing of adding length for subtracting is that you can always take it off later. If I do this, I might consider going extra stiff on the shaft because of the added length and added torque that would be generated to give more direct control with my hands over where the club face is at all times. If I throw down the money, I definitely would get it fitted as much as I could with custom length if possible at golf galaxy but I don't know if that's something that's doable or not.