Gorilla Epoxy - specs question

[GodSpeed]

Saw another epoxy post, but didn't want to hijack his post.

 

I saw that the Gorilla Epoxy's shear strength is 3300, according to their website. But, on the Grainger's website it says 2600. Is this suitable for shaft epoxy? Also, I'm worried I'll do a piss-poor job and need to go have them professionally installed. I don't see any information on their website as to what the temperature is to break the epoxy bond. Anyone have any info or experience using this that could be helpful?

 

Thanks in advance for any info. Much appreciated.

[Socrates]

The lack of information should tell you enough. Use an epoxy that is sold by golf component suppliers.

[Nessism]

My prefered epoxy is 3M DP460, which is not sold by golf club supply companies, but is arguably the best available. At any rate, using an epoxy of know qualities is advised, vs hardware store brands.

[Even Further]

I recently looked around for epoxy, and settled on the Hireko quick cure. The bottle says you can hit balls in 30 minutes, fully cures in 24 hrs. I probably will never do that in 30 minutes, but its nice to be able to use in a few hours/same day.

[ronstars]

[quote name='Socrates' timestamp='1396037977' post='8970651']
The lack of information should tell you enough. Use an epoxy that is sold by golf component suppliers.
[/quote]

What this guy said. When I first started building clubs I tried that exact epoxy and my R9 420 head went a flying down the 2 fairway! Happend again with my hybrid and that was it for that junk. Have used Golfworks epoxy since with 0 failures on about 75 clubs built

[iamhuey]

i use gorilla epoxy with no issues. ive also pulled with no issues.

[sccardslax05]

[quote name='iamhuey' timestamp='1396068774' post='8973265']
i use gorilla epoxy with no issues. ive also pulled with no issues.
[/quote]
+1 to this, just started using gorilla glue epoxy and have had zero issues. Have had about three club heads come loose with my last set of golfworks epoxy, with perfectly prepped surface and mixed epoxy. Actually pulling a shaft out of a wedge that was done with golfworks to switch to gorilla glue tomorrow because of a spinning head. just let settle, breakdown temperature is lower than other golf specific epoxys (see how it holds up in my trunk in the summer) but has a high tensile strength.

[lbhitter]

[quote name='Nessism' timestamp='1396038951' post='8970767']
My prefered epoxy is 3M DP460, which is not sold by golf club supply companies, but is arguably the best available. At any rate, using an epoxy of know qualities is advised, vs hardware store brands.
[/quote]

Mitchell Golf sells 3M DP810, as similar product - with less work time.

[Ricky Ross]

[quote name='lbhitter' timestamp='1396100102' post='8974101']
[quote name='Nessism' timestamp='1396038951' post='8970767']
My prefered epoxy is 3M DP460, which is not sold by golf club supply companies, but is arguably the best available. At any rate, using an epoxy of know qualities is advised, vs hardware store brands.
[/quote]

Mitchell Golf sells 3M DP810, as similar product - with less work time.
[/quote]

Ya but you have to be quick with the dp810 or it will gel before you know what happened.

[Nessism]

DP810 isn't epoxy. It's an acrylic adhesive. Strong stuff. Breaks down at a pretty low temp though which gives me pause.

I like 3M stuff because they provide a real data sheet. Most "golf club epoxy" products don't have a data sheet, we are just expected to trust the seller. I'm pretty sure there is no such thing as golf club epoxy anyway, rather it's simply off the shelf epoxy with characteristics appropriate for golf clubs.

[Grumpy bumpy]

Brampton, is an epoxy with MSDS info. EPO-Weld expoy has MSDS info available. Wishon's own Epoxy has MSDS info.
Some of GolfSmiths epoxy used to be a 3m DP 420.

The 3M DP 460 is sometimes branded under a brand name, Scotch-Weld, used by Titleist Golf in their warehouse.
The EPO-Weld is a brand name for Hardmans epoxy. Used by Cleveland golf on tour vans.
Brampton developed their own epoxy. Is available by several golf club component companies.
I believe the epoxy sold by Hireko Golf is made by Hardmans chemical,

So, yes there are specific golf club epoxies.

[Nessism]

MSDS sheets are for safety considerations. There is no data pertaining to functional characteristics pertinent to the product in an MSDS.

Yup, 3M DP epoxy is good stuff. General purpose epoxy, not golf club specific. We use tons of the stuff where I work (aerospace component manufacturer).

Hardman epoxy is another general purpose formula that is perfectly suitable for golf clubs. Not as strong as the DP460, but much cheaper.

Brampton's epoxy is sold as golf club epoxy. Another fine product. Not sure the characteristics are better than these other two epoxies that don't claim affiliation with any particular industry though. In my experience having bought and used Bramptons 20/20 epoxy in the past is that it's really thin and runny. I prefer a thicker epoxy that will stay in the joint and not run away. You can add filler materials to the epoxy to thicken it up, but using a thicker epoxy to begin with is better in my opinion.

[vix02]

I"ve been using DP 460 for years and I think it's great stuff ( I also work for 3M ). If I"m not mistaken, I think dp 460 runs around 4500 when fully cured.

I'm getting a reduced rate for being an employee but I believe it goes for close to 20.00 per cartridge

[GodSpeed]

Thanks for all the info and replies.

I ended up using Loctite 8 Minute epoxy. It has a 3300psi and a 309* temp. I saw a few posts about it and figured I'd give it a try. Dont have ready access to Golfsmith or any other golf specific epoxy. Coulda ordered it but playing in a tourney next week and wont have time this week to do much. So I made do with the Loctite stuff.

I used a very very small amount of sugar as well. Saw some people say its fine and others say no way, so I went with just a very small amount on the tip b4 inserting into the hosel.

One concern I had, was after pushing the tip into the hosel, there was some popping sounds and the clubhead would retract a bit. I abraded about 1.5-2in from tip with an emery board, and made sure tip areas and hosels were as clean I could possibly get them. My guess? My wire brush tip probably created a small impression at the bottom of the hosel, creating an air pocket. Thoughts? Popping would stop after turning the shaft about 180* once or twice. I had to hold the head on the shaft for a few minutes as well so it wouldnt try and retract. This a sign of a bad epoxy bond in the near future?

My first try, so not really optimistic I did everything correctly. But we'll see. Thanks again errrbody.

Edit: And yea. Going to play tomorrow afternoon with them. No way am I going to play in that tournament with um first thing and embarrass myself. Did them this morning, and the Loctite stuff is a 24hr full cure, so I think I should be ok.

[zip7111]

Im guessing there was a pressure lock in the tip of the shaft causing it to want to back out. Did you drill out all of the old epoxy from the shaft tip?

[GodSpeed]

I dont have a drill, but I have a small flashlight and used my wire brush to scrap all I could see out. I mean, its possible there was some that was in the very very bottom that was the color of the hosels bottom. Did the best I could with what I had. My local guy I use wanted $40 a club to put them together. So I went this route. If the dont hold, I gotta pay him anyway.

I was able to use some old Northwestern clubs for some do-it-yourself extensions. Those worked very well using a pipe cutter vice tool.

[shaffe]

[quote name='GodSpeed' timestamp='1396131131' post='8976675']
I dont have a drill, but I have a small flashlight and used my wire brush to scrap all I could see out. I mean, its possible there was some that was in the very very bottom that was the color of the hosels bottom. Did the best I could with what I had. My local guy I use wanted $40 a club to put them together. So I went this route. If the dont hold, I gotta pay him anyway.

I was able to use some old Northwestern clubs for some do-it-yourself extensions. Those worked very well using a pipe cutter vice tool.
[/quote]

Drill out the epoxy in the shaft, not the hosel. When inserting the shaft in the hostel, there has to be somewhere for the air to escape. The air escapes thought the hole in the center of the shaft. The pops was air being forced out through the epoxy as a bubble.

[Socrates]

I applaud your efforts to do this. As I read your posts, I see many red flags. Look forward to hearing of the results. I hope that you do not come back with only a shaft(s) in your hand.

[GodSpeed]

Actually, the shafts had this small plastic piece in the tips. They wouldnt come out by pulling on the, so I thought they were part of the shaft? They were S300's. That musta been it. Were these just plugs maybe that needed pulling? s***.

[GodSpeed]

[quote name='Socrates' timestamp='1396132437' post='8976803']
I applaud your efforts to do this. As I read your posts, I see many red flags. Look forward to hearing of the results. I hope that you do not come back with only a shaft(s) in your hand.
[/quote]

Yea, I dont expect good results. But gotta start somewhere I guess. I have a backup set just in case

[zip7111]

If there were plastic plugs in the tips they needed to be pulled out or drilled out. You should be able to see light by looking through the shaft.

[GodSpeed]

[quote name='zip7111' timestamp='1396133141' post='8976857']
If there were plastic plugs in the tips they needed to be pulled out or drilled out. You should be able to see light by looking through the shaft.
[/quote]

Ah damn. Yea figured they were part of the club actually. Ah well. They went in ok after it stopped popping. As least I know my mistake now that caused it. Thanks for the info!

[Ajlepisto]

Just used Gorilla Epoxy in my irons and they're setting up outside right now. I guess we'll see how it goes!

[NevadaGolfGuy]

Yea the pressure lock thing is a pain when yea don't know its coming, same thing happens sometimes if you drill the tips out but have the grip tape under grips twisted at the end. I'll usually drill the tips out and then pop a small hole in the grip tape through the hole in the butt cap of the grip so nothing backs itself out.

[GodSpeed]

After my first attempt at reshafting clubs with Gorilla glue, I went ahead and bought the Golfsmith epoxy and shafting beads. The Goflsmith epoxy is a bit more fluid and workable it seems. The clubs I put together with the Gorilla glue held up just fine for a few rounds. Sold them to a friend who never had a problem with them.

I'd go with recommendations here about just ordering actual club specific epoxy. The kit on Golfsmiths website is only like 9.99 I think, and a small thing of shafting beads for 4.99 will last a long time. Shipping was quick too.

[Ri_Redneck]

For several years now, I have used standard 24hr cure epoxy and heat cured it at 150* for about 90 mins. No failures for many years. I believe the quick cure stuff can be fully cured in a minute or two with the proper heat applied. Just never got any to try it. Might be a good experiment for the spring!! Combine this with gripping with air and you can go from components to hitting balls in 2 hrs.

BT

[Ajlepisto]

[quote name='GodSpeed' timestamp='1423578823' post='10923761'] After my first attempt at reshafting clubs with Gorilla glue, I went ahead and bought the Golfsmith epoxy and shafting beads. The Goflsmith epoxy is a bit more fluid and workable it seems. The clubs I put together with the Gorilla glue held up just fine for a few rounds. Sold them to a friend who never had a problem with them. I'd go with recommendations here about just ordering actual club specific epoxy. The kit on Golfsmiths website is only like 9.99 I think, and a small thing of shafting beads for 4.99 will last a long time. Shipping was quick too. [/quote]

If it worked fine, why are you recommending against it?

[magills]

Don't overlook the temp rating! The higher the better especially for clubs that spend time in your vehicle in the summer. The low temp threshold will breakdown on a hot day in your car allowing the head/adapter to turn.

[GodSpeed]

[quote name='Ajlepisto' timestamp='1423598991' post='10926353']
[quote name='GodSpeed' timestamp='1423578823' post='10923761'] After my first attempt at reshafting clubs with Gorilla glue, I went ahead and bought the Golfsmith epoxy and shafting beads. The Goflsmith epoxy is a bit more fluid and workable it seems. The clubs I put together with the Gorilla glue held up just fine for a few rounds. Sold them to a friend who never had a problem with them. I'd go with recommendations here about just ordering actual club specific epoxy. The kit on Golfsmiths website is only like 9.99 I think, and a small thing of shafting beads for 4.99 will last a long time. Shipping was quick too. [/quote]

If it worked fine, why are you recommending against it?
[/quote]

I didn't say "don't use it". I just said I would recommend the Golfsmith stuff, because it seems easier to work. The Gorilla glue, if I remember right, was a bit thicker. Plus I think the Golfsmith epoxy was the same price, and there is way more of it.

If your in a pinch and/or don't want to wait on shipping, or just prefer the Gorilla glue? By all means. Use it. Yes, it seemed to do the job in my case. Me personally, after using that and actual shafting epoxy from Goflsmith? Would recommend that over the Gorilla glue.

[youngen]

Just in case anybody is still wondering...

The breakdown temp for Gorilla Epoxy is 180°F. I know that their website is not exactly easy to find information on and only has Safety Data Sheets and not an actual Spec Sheet. But, I happen to have a spec sheet for it that I came across from a supplier or something back a while ago. It also lists this temp on the back of the package when it refers to "able to withstand temps from -10 to 180". So its not cut and dry clear, but they at least gave you that information in a non-technical sort of way.

I use it in all my graphite shafting projects as I love the low breakdown temp.