Gorilla Epoxy - specs question

[Ajlepisto]

[quote name='GodSpeed' timestamp='1423666441' post='10930911']
[quote name='Ajlepisto' timestamp='1423598991' post='10926353']
[quote name='GodSpeed' timestamp='1423578823' post='10923761'] After my first attempt at reshafting clubs with Gorilla glue, I went ahead and bought the Golfsmith epoxy and shafting beads. The Goflsmith epoxy is a bit more fluid and workable it seems. The clubs I put together with the Gorilla glue held up just fine for a few rounds. Sold them to a friend who never had a problem with them. I'd go with recommendations here about just ordering actual club specific epoxy. The kit on Golfsmiths website is only like 9.99 I think, and a small thing of shafting beads for 4.99 will last a long time. Shipping was quick too. [/quote]

If it worked fine, why are you recommending against it?
[/quote]

I didn't say "don't use it". I just said I would recommend the Golfsmith stuff, because it seems easier to work. The Gorilla glue, if I remember right, was a bit thicker. Plus I think the Golfsmith epoxy was the same price, and there is way more of it.

If your in a pinch and/or don't want to wait on shipping, or just prefer the Gorilla glue? By all means. Use it. Yes, it seemed to do the job in my case. Me personally, after using that and actual shafting epoxy from Goflsmith? Would recommend that over the Gorilla glue.
[/quote]

Gotcha. I just wasn't sure if you forgot to mention it didn't work.

Hit the clubs today for the first time and it seems great. Honestly, I like the thickness of the glue...but maybe that's just me. I just get so nervous the first few swings with a club because I don't want the head flying down the driving range, or worse, flying off in my backswing.

[GodSpeed]

[quote name='Ajlepisto' timestamp='1423688956' post='10933467']
[quote name='GodSpeed' timestamp='1423666441' post='10930911']
[quote name='Ajlepisto' timestamp='1423598991' post='10926353']
[quote name='GodSpeed' timestamp='1423578823' post='10923761'] After my first attempt at reshafting clubs with Gorilla glue, I went ahead and bought the Golfsmith epoxy and shafting beads. The Goflsmith epoxy is a bit more fluid and workable it seems. The clubs I put together with the Gorilla glue held up just fine for a few rounds. Sold them to a friend who never had a problem with them. I'd go with recommendations here about just ordering actual club specific epoxy. The kit on Golfsmiths website is only like 9.99 I think, and a small thing of shafting beads for 4.99 will last a long time. Shipping was quick too. [/quote]

If it worked fine, why are you recommending against it?
[/quote]

I didn't say "don't use it". I just said I would recommend the Golfsmith stuff, because it seems easier to work. The Gorilla glue, if I remember right, was a bit thicker. Plus I think the Golfsmith epoxy was the same price, and there is way more of it.

If your in a pinch and/or don't want to wait on shipping, or just prefer the Gorilla glue? By all means. Use it. Yes, it seemed to do the job in my case. Me personally, after using that and actual shafting epoxy from Goflsmith? Would recommend that over the Gorilla glue.
[/quote]

Gotcha. I just wasn't sure if you forgot to mention it didn't work.

Hit the clubs today for the first time and it seems great. Honestly, I like the thickness of the glue...but maybe that's just me. I just get so nervous the first few swings with a club because I don't want the head flying down the driving range, or worse, flying off in my backswing.
[/quote]

I had the same feeling with using Gorilla glue as well. Since it wasn't "shafting epoxy" specific, it made me a bit nervous. I probably wasted a lot of it too, applying it in excess to make sure the bond took. With the Golfsmith stuff though, I've honestly haven't ever had a doubt the clubs I've built will hold up. I've actually taken a wedge out to the range after 18 hours and had no problem. It might sound weird, but the actual epoxy made for shafting gives me some confidence in my work.

[proguy]

[quote name='iamhuey' timestamp='1396068774' post='8973265']
i use gorilla epoxy with no issues. ive also pulled with no issues.
[/quote]

+1.

dont overthink it.

[SHIVAN]

[dhayse32]

Bringing this thread back to life. Looking for some more feedback from those who were skeptical but gave it a whirl. I just installed two TM adaptors with Gorilla Epoxy. Read mixed reviews on here, so hoping to hear some more feedback from those that ACTUALLY have used it.

[GolfProTJ]

Let me know how it works, let it cure out for a day or two just to be safe!!!

[dhayse32]

[quote name='GolfProTJ' timestamp='1431999605' post='11582864']
Let me know how it works, let it cure out for a day or two just to be safe!!!
[/quote]

I did a small test last week. I had an older adaptor that I used this on. Let it set for 24 hours. Hit about a dozen balls at the range as hard as I could. Then tried my best to remove the tip by hand w/o any heat. nothing. Ended up using a hand torch and finally heated up enough to remove it. Shafted several clubs with the GolfWorks epoxy in the past and honestly couldn't tell much difference. I am doing a range session tomorrow with a SDLR 3 wood and R15 driver, both with Gorilla Epoxied tips. We shall see....

[Nessism]

Gorilla epoxy lap shear = 2400psi = bare minimum for club work

3M DP420/460 epoxy lap shear = 4500 psi

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited June 2 by Nessism

[dunn]

Have used a number of epoxies at home depot and never had issues....I will not use quick set epoxy anymore though...I use the 24 hr stuff and if I need to use the club in an hr or so I just heat the hosel up a bit and it sets it off faster ( heat it til it starts to bubble around ferrule )......used loctite, gorilla, and few others and of course golf epoxy....

You can make 24 hr epoxy quick set with heat....all the tour vans used to do this idk if they still do

I bought big jugs of golf epoxy though golf works ($25)....it will build prolly 100 sets plus....done 20 sets so far and still have 75% left if not more...

[Nessism]

No way I'd use that stuff and then pass the club on by selling it to someone unsuspecting. Not worth it.

[Redhill]

[quote name='Nessism' timestamp='1432003841' post='11583454']
Gorilla epoxy lap shear = 2500psi = bare minimum for club work

3M DP420/460 epoxy lap shear = 4500 psi
[/quote]

I usually go to the hardware store when I need epoxy and pick out the one with the highest shear strength and then let it cure for at least 24 hours. It's not hard to find stuff at those stores with psi's of 4,000 to 5,500 at reasonable costs.

2500 psi sounds close to the line, but maybe it works just fine. I read the Gorilla specs my last time I needed epoxy and passed on it.

[SHIVAN]

I'm using this stuff now: http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_VB1024

What is the set and cure time of 3M DP420/460? Where can I get it? Is it 1:1 or 2:1 mix?

Thanks.

[driveandputtmachine]

I have been using PC Super Epoxy from Ace Hardware for almost 10 years now, with never a failure. I swing the driver 118 MPH, and take HUGE divots with my irons and have never had ferrule creep, failure or anything else. I have reshafted my irons 4 times in that span. My J40's are on their second set of shafts(Graphite this time) and they are holding up just fine.

I think tensile strength for it is 2650 and 200*F breakdown temperature.

[Nessism]

[quote name='SHIVAN' timestamp='1432040100' post='11585020']
I'm using this stuff now: http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_VB1024

What is the set and cure time of 3M DP420/460? Where can I get it? Is it 1:1 or 2:1 mix?

Thanks.
[/quote]

That 3M epoxy is uber strong. It's also expensive and requires a dispenser gun. I started using it when reshafting Pings because I was getting creaking noises from the bond joint and wanted the strongest epoxy available. For general purpose club work I think it's overkill. But I still use it. Any decent epoxy with lap shear values in the 2800+ psi range should be fine. If you are doing anything funky like using shims and the like though, you might want to use a stronger material.

3M data sheets are readily available on the internet so do a search if you want to learn more about those materials. I use heat to speed cure epoxy, which actually increases strength over room temperature curing. To each their own though.

[SHIVAN]

Not until this recent work using Nippon shafts have I ever heard creaking, but both me, and a friend of mine have done a bunch of clubs and not ever had a head creak/come loose -- doing the Nippons, we both did. Which I thought was odd. Was going to get the 4500psi stuff that Golfworks sells to compare.

[farmer]

[quote name='Nessism' timestamp='1432044812' post='11585492']
[quote name='SHIVAN' timestamp='1432040100' post='11585020']
I'm using this stuff now: http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_VB1024

What is the set and cure time of 3M DP420/460? Where can I get it? Is it 1:1 or 2:1 mix?

Thanks.
[/quote]

That 3M epoxy is uber strong. It's also expensive and requires a dispenser gun. I started using it when reshafting Pings because I was getting creaking noises from the bond joint and wanted the strongest epoxy available. For general purpose club work I think it's overkill. But I still use it. Any decent epoxy with lap shear values in the 2800+ psi range should be fine. If you are doing anything funky like using shims and the like though, you might want to use a stronger material.

3M data sheets are readily available on the internet so do a search if you want to learn more about those materials. I use heat to speed cure epoxy, which actually increases strength over room temperature curing. To each their own though.
[/quote]Do you use a heat cabinet of some kind?

[Nessism]

[quote name='farmer' timestamp='1432059143' post='11587240']
Do you use a heat cabinet of some kind?
[/quote]

I use some scrap wood pieces that are placed around the clubs, and then a heat gun is set to low and pointed to blow into onto the clubs. You don't want to heat the clubs a whole bunch, just up to about 140F, roughly the temperature inside a car on a warm day. 90 mins at 140F and the clubs are ready to go.

[BlakeBstone]

I've used gorilla epoxy since it came out. I've done numerous sets,driver adapters 3 woods you name it and have never had a failure. I love the stuff

[BlakeBstone]

As a matter of fact I just did my j15 cb's with nippon 120's. Have 3 practice sessions and again no issues

[Ajlepisto]

Just pulled a set of irons that I had shafted with Gorilla epoxy. Was pretty tough to get off, even with heat. Seems to be working fine. Just reshafted the new set with it too. Working great.

[Mathwiz]

I have used Golfworks 24hr shafting epoxy for years with never a failure. The only thing I don't like about it is the fact that it is thinner than I like. I actually mix it and wait about an hour before applying. Kind of a pain, but it gets the job done. I would really like to use epoxy that is thicker at mixing time.

[ws6]

[quote name='farmer' timestamp='1432059143' post='11587240']
[quote name='Nessism' timestamp='1432044812' post='11585492']
[quote name='SHIVAN' timestamp='1432040100' post='11585020']
I'm using this stuff now: http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_VB1024

What is the set and cure time of 3M DP420/460? Where can I get it? Is it 1:1 or 2:1 mix?

Thanks.
[/quote]

That 3M epoxy is uber strong. It's also expensive and requires a dispenser gun. I started using it when reshafting Pings because I was getting creaking noises from the bond joint and wanted the strongest epoxy available. For general purpose club work I think it's overkill. But I still use it. Any decent epoxy with lap shear values in the 2800+ psi range should be fine. If you are doing anything funky like using shims and the like though, you might want to use a stronger material.

3M data sheets are readily available on the internet so do a search if you want to learn more about those materials. I use heat to speed cure epoxy, which actually increases strength over room temperature curing. To each their own though.
[/quote]Do you use a heat cabinet of some kind?
[/quote]

I made a heat box out of rigid insulation, a utility light, and an outdoor thermometer. I cut the insulation and made it into a box and taped the seams. I used a piece of scrap wood that was longer than the top to give it a lip (so it won't slip down into the box). The light heats the box nicely.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rmax-R-Matte-Plus-3-1-2-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-R-3-2-Polyiso-Rigid-Foam-Insulation-Board-754404/100572981?N=5yc1vZbaxx

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-75-Watt-Incandescent-Plastic-Shield-Trouble-Light-CE-406PDQ/100354520?N=5yc1vZbm8pZ12kx

http://www.homedepot.com/p/AcuRite-Analog-Thermometer-00346HD/100659741

[FlaBoy239]

I use the clear gorilla epoxy with no issues. I've always let it sit 18 hours or so before hitting them. I might make a drying rack and let them sit in the sun next time just for the hell of it.

[dunn]

Have used gorilla, loctite, JB weld, Brampton, 3M, and golfworks stuff

 

Never had a failure with any

 

Only had problem with quick cure stuff once.....

 

Epoxy is cheap.....I have a bottle from golfworks (2 act part A&B) that cost me $30.....built over 200 clubs and still have half the bottles left....

 

I would use any of em in a pinch, but i wont so.....

 

I dont think its that complicated really or technical....use best ypu can get your hands on at the time......if head comes off, than you learned a lesson......not end of world,lol

[Jasonic]

Have used gorilla, loctite, JB weld, Brampton, 3M, and golfworks stuff

 

Never had a failure with any

 

Only had problem with quick cure stuff once.....

 

Epoxy is cheap.....I have a bottle from golfworks (2 act part A&B) that cost me $30.....built over 200 clubs and still have half the bottles left....

 

I would use any of em in a pinch, but i wont so.....

 

I dont think its that complicated really or technical....use best ypu can get your hands on at the time......if head comes off, than you learned a lesson......not end of world,lol

 

Yea no big deal when someone gets hit in the head with a flying driver head lol

[dunn]

Lol....on the odd chance you dont feel the head already being loose enough to fly off with speed who the he** is standing in or near the fairway when you tee off?

[elainefreeman]

Haven’t seen an updated post in awhile. Have been using Gorilla Epoxy with 3300 tensile strength and have had no issues. I have had epoxy fails with Brampton (May have been too old). Have never used Golfworks epoxy. I also use shaft beads and have had no issues. I like that it’s quick set up and cure time, but the best part is how easy and quickly it is to find and get for the price.  I intend to try Gorilla epoxy weld but not sure if this will work as good. It has a higher tensile strength but like I said, not sure if it will necessarily be any better or worse. When I use it, I will update the post. Make you prep your surface properly and use enough (not too much) and you shouldn’t have issues.

[AzRoger]

^^^^Could also try JB Weld ClearWeld epoxy, readily available at the local big box stores. Shear strength 3900, quick set and cure times, also has a long shelf life for those that only do occasional builds.

[GodSpeed]

This post is still alive? 11 years later. I use Golfworks. No failures. Probably 200+ clubs. My buddies Scratch wedges are over a decade old. Still going strong lol

[TNwanabe]

Been using GG for years on dozens of clubs and never had an issue.