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Blade users thread (NO DEBATING CLUBHEADS! NO Buy Sell Trade!)


Bigmean

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[quote name='JimNewton' timestamp='1421855137' post='10790403']
I have no issue with the MP-32 4 iron, but the 3 iron is just in a different building. I did the foot spray test and I'm right in the middle with the 4, but start getting it higher up on the 3. I just have a much harder time pureing it. 1/2" longer and 3 degrees stronger shouldn't make such a difference but I guess it does ... for me.

This 7 wood idea is really making good sense to me. I actually used to have a persimmon one when I was a teenager and it was my favorite club. I may also try the H4 3 iron but for now I'm stuck with the one I have.

And yeah, I know the 32s are quasi blades but come on they're sweeeeeeet
[/quote]

Everyone has a point of diminishing returns. You'd think a half inch wouldn't matter, going from one club to the next, but that's all it takes.

Some folks gain swing speed continuously as the club gets longer, some hit a plateau at a given length. Some hit the ball higher, some hit it lower. Having a point past which you can make consistent contact is just another piece of that pie.

It's just the nature of the beast. :)

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini, NV75 or NV85 X -or- Cobra DarkSpeed LS, HZRDUS Green Smoke 70 X

Fwy woods:  TM SIM2 Ti, Aldila Tour Blue 85 X; King LTD 5w, RIP Beta 90 X (this may replace hybrid below)
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h or 3h, Modus 105 S 

Irons grab bag:  3-GW Maltby TS4, Modus 105 S; Tommy Armour 986 Tours 2-PW, Modus 105 S; Mizuno MS-11, Modus 120 S
Wedges:  Maltby Max Milled 56° 1.05 -or- Cobra Snakebite 56°
Putter:  Cleveland HB Soft2 #8S, 34"
Balls: Maxfli Tour, Callaway Chrome Soft

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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[quote name='JimNewton' timestamp='1421855137' post='10790403']
I have no issue with the MP-32 4 iron, but the 3 iron is just in a different building. I did the foot spray test and I'm right in the middle with the 4, but start getting it higher up on the 3. I just have a much harder time pureing it. 1/2" longer and 3 degrees stronger shouldn't make such a difference but I guess it does ... for me.

This 7 wood idea is really making good sense to me. I actually used to have a persimmon one when I was a teenager and it was my favorite club. I may also try the H4 3 iron but for now I'm stuck with the one I have.

And yeah, I know the 32s are quasi blades but come on they're sweeeeeeet
[/quote]

I only use my Mp32 3 iron from the tee and from perfect lies on the fairway. It's a beast for sure, very knife-like by the ball.

Edit: I do have a titleist 690cb 3iron which is very friendly...maybe I'll slot that one in instead of the 3 iron, but the 4 iron stays, I have no problem hitting it.

Cobra Darkspeed X 9° or Honma TR20 440 9.5°
Cobra Darkspeed X 15° or Royal Collection 15°
Cobra King tec 19° or Tourstage X-drive 5w
Tourstage X-blade 705 Type M 4-pw 
Custom blank wedges 51/56/60
Sink Anchor line (zero torque)

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[quote name='duffer987' timestamp='1421817992' post='10788537']
.... do you really play a full set of MBs from 3-PW? Do you mix with friendly irons? Maybe have hybrids at the top of the bag instead?
[/quote]

it's a good question. i go 4-PW all mp 69 blades, then a cavity back gap wedge (don't ask), then an mp 4 wedge, then a scratch 58. i can't hit the scratch with anything resembling a full shot, but it is so choice out of bunkers and mini floppers around the green. the cavity back gap wedge is a carry over from a misplaced order... and all i do is make birdies with it.

at the top of the bag, it's an old cobra dws hybrid, a tee xcg4 fairway wood, and the big stick. the hybrid is 9 years old, has the 'wrong' shaft for me and has a peeling grip, but it's magic. the xcg is the only fairway i've ever been able to hit consistently. driver is a revolving door, but i seem to have settled into the 913.

my bag aside, it's usually just what works for each individual. i've played cbs in the long irons before with very similar results (except from the rough - much better performance for me with the thin soled blades).

i happen to think that the most important factor to hitting your golf clubs consistently is [u]not[/u] the design of the club - it's the shaft. the clubhead is all about personal preference. just my thoughts tho.

TM M5 10.5°
TEE XCG4 3w 15°
Cobra BioCell 3h
Titleist AP3 4-GW

Bstone J15 52°

Cally MD3 58° Tour Grind
Bettinardi Queen Bee #5

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Good replies guys :)
The last two years I played XHP 4-5 | X-Forged '13 6-PW, so it's kind of become my go-to set up for less forgiving clubs and it works a charm, as mentioned who needs anything more than the center of the green from those distances.

That said, my XHP 4I is one of my favorite clubs, probably produces as many really memorable shots as any other... of course that is likely because the expectations aren't so high, haha.

Anyways, with Srixon z745s arriving last night, the Mizunos might have a short stay in the bag. Darn you WRX!

Spot on Cameron: I've found shafts I like and have two sets going with them in. Wholly agree that if you find a head you can stand to look at, shaft them up appropriately and you're sorted.

[url="http://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vTOZNxdsDKajrKxaUCRjcU8eB7URcAMpaCWN-67Bt6QG8rmBUPYW3QAQ7k87BlYizIMKJzEhuzqr9OQ/pubhtml?gid=0&single=true"]WITB[/url] | [url="http://tinyurl.com/CoursesPlayedList"]Courses Played list[/url] |  [url="http://tinyurl.com/25GolfingFaves"] 25 Faves [/url]

F.T.

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I just use one of my blades to goof off with some regulars, or by myself. Keeps you sharp.
In league or tournaments it's the mp-53

Cobra ZL Encore 8.5 Matrix 6Q3
TEE CB4 tour 15 RIP 70 Sigma
Titleist 909h 19 Voodoo
Mizuno Mp-53 4-pw DG progressive shafts
Odyssey Black ProType 10 Sm 4.5 TP ball
Mizuno raw haze 50, 56 Scratch 60

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[quote name='JimNewton' timestamp='1421855137' post='10790403']
I have no issue with the MP-32 4 iron, but the 3 iron is just in a different building. I did the foot spray test and I'm right in the middle with the 4, but start getting it higher up on the 3. I just have a much harder time pureing it. 1/2" longer and 3 degrees stronger shouldn't make such a difference but I guess it does ... for me.

This 7 wood idea is really making good sense to me. I actually used to have a persimmon one when I was a teenager and it was my favorite club. I may also try the H4 3 iron but for now I'm stuck with the one I have.

And yeah, I know the 32s are quasi blades but come on they're sweeeeeeet
[/quote]
7w is definitely worth a look if you are a good wood player. I much prefer it over a hybrid or hybrid iron.

Also I found my CB mp60 3i gives minimal forgiveness compared to my blade mp67 3i so I personally don't see the point of using CBs irons for forgiveness. For me I go all-in with a 7w.

Like the mp32s, I play micro cavity mp67s too. I think Bigmean will give us a pass that these are blades for all intents and purposes.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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Pass more than given. Honestly, I am down for any talk about really blade like players cbs if you guys want. I think it is pretty common sense clear what I don't want on this thread, and while everyone is free to post, everyone making this post great is equally as free to 100% ignore.


I was just texting my wife....no mention of a package. It was in jax on Monday, so I would think today is the day. Also, I almost totally dodged the missile I had launched at me at work yesterday, so I have some good luck rolling today, I hope they are there to cap off a much better day. If so, I am ranging them.....

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LOL Bigmean you have at least 3 amazing sets of blades to play and you are still jonesing about that package. True wrx'er.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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Hey. It happens. Just had a friend in Canada text me about the Titleist mb set I sent him. He's in love. Now I want them back. Wtf is wrong with me. Ahhhhh. I can't play them all. System overload. So funny because I buy them. Build them. Try them. Love them then sell them. Mp68 stays in the bag. Either I'm nuts or they are good. Probably both

TM Brnr mini 11.5 tensie 1k pro blue 60 

TM Sim2 max tour  16.5* GD  ADHD 7 

Ping i530 4-Uw AWT 2.0 

Ping Glide 4.0  53 59 AWT 2.0 

LAB Mezz Max armlock TPT shaft  78* 

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bladehunter remember the saying:

"If you love something, set it free. If it comes back to you, then it was meant to be..."

Any blade user in this thread has an open invitation to set their blades free with me. Just PM me.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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What the hell is the deal! They didn't come. This day is not over for deliveries, but damn near....only the usps could get something from Washington state all the way to Florida in 5 days, and then from Jacksonville to west palm in another 4.....holy crap man...the macgregors from japan will get here sooner at this rate.

System overload for sure. But now that I have a plan, I feel good about my hoing....like only shooting heroin 3 times a week instead of everyday :)

Work has had me so stressed and beat, I haven't listed my taylormades and mp37s yet.... Someone is going to get my 1-pw Taylor makes for probably $30, but I need them gone. There is just no way on the planet I can see myself even wanting to range them again, let alone play. same with the 37s.

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Now I'm curious and my advancing years aren't allowing me to remember.... Which TMs do you have, Biggie?

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini, NV75 or NV85 X -or- Cobra DarkSpeed LS, HZRDUS Green Smoke 70 X

Fwy woods:  TM SIM2 Ti, Aldila Tour Blue 85 X; King LTD 5w, RIP Beta 90 X (this may replace hybrid below)
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h or 3h, Modus 105 S 

Irons grab bag:  3-GW Maltby TS4, Modus 105 S; Tommy Armour 986 Tours 2-PW, Modus 105 S; Mizuno MS-11, Modus 120 S
Wedges:  Maltby Max Milled 56° 1.05 -or- Cobra Snakebite 56°
Putter:  Cleveland HB Soft2 #8S, 34"
Balls: Maxfli Tour, Callaway Chrome Soft

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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I googled them, and this was second post....I think I am going to satin them tonight now........holy crap...

http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/761209-my-old-school-taylor-made-td-tour-preferred-satinised-refurb/

Well, the Cleveland's came. Just got through knocking the PW around behind my house. They have a good old school look. They are softer than most clubs I have hit that look like that (you know, the no bounce 80s looking blade). They came in a little worse than the pics indicated, so no getting around the refinish, the SW-9 are kinda making me think black ox may be in play, but I really would like to do copper. I am not in a hurry, I am open to all suggestions, but chrome strip and sanding is a must before whatever happens.

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I'm a Titleist CB guy, but I prefer a blade. Only reason I play a CB is because why not get a tad extra help on those toe shots? I may very well go back to a blade in a few years considering I just bought a fresh set of irons this past summer to replace my old CB's... I can't deny the look at address of an MB and the assuring solid feel and thin sole turf interaction you get with an MB. My ball striking is starting to make it's way back around and I'm starting to go low again. I think I may go MB PW-6 / CB 5 and 4 but thats years down the road.

 

I am a Titleist guy, but I gotta say, my J33b's were the best blades Ive had. I put them up on the BST here and wish I had them in the "extra's bag" right now.

 

I am in no way a Callaway guy either, but I cam real dam close to buying the protos awhile back. Some of the best irons I have had the pleasure to hit and look at.

 

22013d1200641445-callaway-x-prototype-x-prototype-07.jpg

 

mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.....

 

Titleist TSi3 9 deg / PX Hazardous Smoke Black RDX

Titleist 915 F 15 deg / Diamana 70
Titleist TSi2 19 deg Hybrid / PX Hazardous Smoke Black RDX
Titleist T100 / Project X 6.0

Titleist Vokey SM5 50/8F

Titleist Vokey SM9 54/10S 58/10S

Scotty Cameron Special Select Newport

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dude... I have hit my razr MBs that just arrived all afternoon and wow! im getting this eerie feeling that I may have a bag minus Mizuno soon.. The Razr MB is actually shorter heel to toe and has a very nice leading edge grind and heel relief ...

TM Brnr mini 11.5 tensie 1k pro blue 60 

TM Sim2 max tour  16.5* GD  ADHD 7 

Ping i530 4-Uw AWT 2.0 

Ping Glide 4.0  53 59 AWT 2.0 

LAB Mezz Max armlock TPT shaft  78* 

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[quote name='eagle1997' timestamp='1421859711' post='10791007']
[quote name='duffer987' timestamp='1421817992' post='10788537']
.... do you really play a full set of MBs from 3-PW? Do you mix with friendly irons? Maybe have hybrids at the top of the bag instead?
[/quote]

it's a good question. i go 4-PW all mp 69 blades, then a cavity back gap wedge (don't ask), then an mp 4 wedge, then a scratch 58. i can't hit the scratch with anything resembling a full shot, but it is so choice out of bunkers and mini floppers around the green. the cavity back gap wedge is a carry over from a misplaced order... and all i do is make birdies with it.

at the top of the bag, it's an old cobra dws hybrid, a tee xcg4 fairway wood, and the big stick. the hybrid is 9 years old, has the 'wrong' shaft for me and has a peeling grip, but it's magic. the xcg is the only fairway i've ever been able to hit consistently. driver is a revolving door, but i seem to have settled into the 913.

my bag aside, it's usually just what works for each individual. i've played cbs in the long irons before with very similar results (except from the rough - much better performance for me with the thin soled blades).

[b]i happen to think that the most important factor to hitting your golf clubs consistently is [u]not[/u] the design of the club - it's the shaft. the clubhead is all about personal preference. just my thoughts tho.[/b]
[/quote]

Amen to that........I also find offset to play a bigger role than weighting configuration, especially in long irons. I carry a 3 and am real comfortable with it. Woods have not been great to me.

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Why aren't there more cast iron blades on the market?

I'm hoping someone that has actually hit these rare clubs can share their personal experience with how their feel compares to forged blades. I only have experience with cast vs forged iron CBs but that is for a separate thread.

Edit: It just came to me that with a blade's design the feel is more acute and so maybe it enables a golfer to feel the difference between forged and cast steel. The cavity design tends to dampen the feel (and feedback) and so that is why there's not as much of a difference in the feel with that design.

It would make business sense to me for a club manufacturer to make cast iron blades. Yet they don't.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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[quote name='DeNinny' timestamp='1421898932' post='10795301']
Why aren't there more cast iron blades on the market?

I'm hoping someone that has actually hit these rare clubs can share their personal experience with how their feel compares to forged blades. I only have experience with cast vs forged iron CBs but that is for a separate thread.
[/quote]

I hit a friends Ping S56's and was very surprised. I could have put them in the bag based only on feel, but I don't have any course experience with them. All I know is my distance control with forgings are better than anything Ive used. I would play a cast blade for sure if I got the same results and feel as I do from a forged blade. Longer life and less browning is a bonus! I played with a guy awhile back who was using some Cleveland CG Tours... He said he loved them. They still looked pretty new.

 

Titleist TSi3 9 deg / PX Hazardous Smoke Black RDX

Titleist 915 F 15 deg / Diamana 70
Titleist TSi2 19 deg Hybrid / PX Hazardous Smoke Black RDX
Titleist T100 / Project X 6.0

Titleist Vokey SM5 50/8F

Titleist Vokey SM9 54/10S 58/10S

Scotty Cameron Special Select Newport

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I have a set of cast blades, IIRC they're 1020 carbon steel, from Purefit (who appear to no longer exist). They're quite soft feeling, surprisingly so, when I finally hit one of them.

Then there are the cast Nickel Ram FX Tour Grinds, and the 1999 Australian Blades. Dynacraft made a set of cast 1030 carbon steel blades a dozen years ago or so, they were also quite nice.

The Ping S59s might qualify, though they have that elastomer quasi-cavity in the back. It might be analogous to the cut muscle from Mizuno. :)

There have been a few cast 304 stainless blades out there, Bang Golf produced three sets of "Tour Tools" irons, once upon a time.

The TaylorMade blades of 20-25 years ago were cast, I believe.

They're out there, but the public is brainwashed into wanting "forged," so the OEMs go that route.

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini, NV75 or NV85 X -or- Cobra DarkSpeed LS, HZRDUS Green Smoke 70 X

Fwy woods:  TM SIM2 Ti, Aldila Tour Blue 85 X; King LTD 5w, RIP Beta 90 X (this may replace hybrid below)
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h or 3h, Modus 105 S 

Irons grab bag:  3-GW Maltby TS4, Modus 105 S; Tommy Armour 986 Tours 2-PW, Modus 105 S; Mizuno MS-11, Modus 120 S
Wedges:  Maltby Max Milled 56° 1.05 -or- Cobra Snakebite 56°
Putter:  Cleveland HB Soft2 #8S, 34"
Balls: Maxfli Tour, Callaway Chrome Soft

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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Thanks LUMA and NRJ. I'm talking the premier blade lines here. I know the players CBs and tweeners are cast, but never (or rarely) the manufacturers version of the pure blade.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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[quote name='NRJyzr' timestamp='1421899766' post='10795379']
...

They're out there, but the public is brainwashed into wanting "forged," so the OEMs go that route.
[/quote]

I know they are out there but I think there is more to it than pure brainwashing.

Let me ask you this: in your personal experience, how high on your list would you put a cast iron blade in terms of the blade with the best feel?

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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[quote name='LUMA' timestamp='1421899472' post='10795349']
I hit a friends Ping S56's and was very surprised. I could have put them in the bag based only on feel, but I don't have any course experience with them. All I know is my distance control with forgings are better than anything Ive used. I would play a cast blade for sure if I got the same results and feel as I do from a forged blade. Longer life and less browning is a bonus! I played with a guy awhile back who was using some Cleveland CG Tours... He said he loved them. They still looked pretty new.
[/quote]

I would hit a cast blade if they felt and I got results as good as my MP-67s. I was actually thinking some black oxide cast iron blades may have a nice feel.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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[quote name='DeNinny' timestamp='1421900250' post='10795417']
[quote name='NRJyzr' timestamp='1421899766' post='10795379']
...

They're out there, but the public is brainwashed into wanting "forged," so the OEMs go that route.
[/quote]

I know they are out there but I think there is more to it than pure brainwashing.

Let me ask you this: in your personal experience, how high on your list would you put a cast iron blade in terms of the blade with the best feel?
[/quote]

Depends on the blade.

I've said it recently here, the 99 Australian Blade is the softest blade I've ever hit. It's not even close. There's a reason the sets that show up for sale get snapped up in a hurry; they're that good.

A lot of folks make blanket assumptions on what's directly responsible for the good feel in a club. Frequently they go right for the "forged" angle, without actually examining all the variables, and there are a LOT of variables.

A softer shaft will improve feel. Softer tip will improve feel. The rifling in Rifle shafts was said to make a club feel softer. The prevalence of a great deal of metal behind the impact zone will make a club feel soft. The softness of the metal used to manufacture the clubhead will affect the feel. Then there's the dowel option. Any one of the vibration dampening systems that are installed down the butt of the shaft. There are probably other factors I'm not thinking of at 10.44pm on a weeknight. ;)

I've hit a cast 431 stainless cavity back that was assembled with a softish shaft, full dowel treatment, along with one of the vibration dampening systems (ProSoft, Sensicore, strawsicore, something along those lines). It was easily as soft a feel, if not more so, than the Scratch CB irons another buddy had, shafted with KBS Tour Stiff. (same balls, same day hitting each)

It's said that 304 stainless is actually a softer material than 1030 carbon steel. It's been a while since I've looked at the Rockwell hardness figures for the assorted materials in question, but this was something talked about a LOT on golf forums a dozen years ago, so it sunk in a bit. :)

I'm running out of gas so I'll stop for now. Hope I didn't put y'all to sleep. LOL

last note: wouldn't call them "cast iron." No golf club is made of iron. ;)
(I know, I'm nitpicking again, lol at me)

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini, NV75 or NV85 X -or- Cobra DarkSpeed LS, HZRDUS Green Smoke 70 X

Fwy woods:  TM SIM2 Ti, Aldila Tour Blue 85 X; King LTD 5w, RIP Beta 90 X (this may replace hybrid below)
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h or 3h, Modus 105 S 

Irons grab bag:  3-GW Maltby TS4, Modus 105 S; Tommy Armour 986 Tours 2-PW, Modus 105 S; Mizuno MS-11, Modus 120 S
Wedges:  Maltby Max Milled 56° 1.05 -or- Cobra Snakebite 56°
Putter:  Cleveland HB Soft2 #8S, 34"
Balls: Maxfli Tour, Callaway Chrome Soft

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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NRJ t
[quote name='NRJyzr' timestamp='1421902076' post='10795567']
[quote name='DeNinny' timestamp='1421900250' post='10795417']
[quote name='NRJyzr' timestamp='1421899766' post='10795379']
...

They're out there, but the public is brainwashed into wanting "forged," so the OEMs go that route.
[/quote]

I know they are out there but I think there is more to it than pure brainwashing.

Let me ask you this: in your personal experience, how high on your list would you put a cast iron blade in terms of the blade with the best feel?
[/quote]

Depends on the blade.

I've said it recently here, the 99 Australian Blade is the softest blade I've ever hit. It's not even close. There's a reason the sets that show up for sale get snapped up in a hurry; they're that good.

A lot of folks make blanket assumptions on what's directly responsible for the good feel in a club. Frequently they go right for the "forged" angle, without actually examining all the variables, and there are a LOT of variables.

A softer shaft will improve feel. Softer tip will improve feel. The rifling in Rifle shafts was said to make a club feel softer. The prevalence of a great deal of metal behind the impact zone will make a club feel soft. The softness of the metal used to manufacture the clubhead will affect the feel. Then there's the dowel option. Any one of the vibration dampening systems that are installed down the butt of the shaft. There are probably other factors I'm not thinking of at 10.44pm on a weeknight. ;)

I've hit a cast 431 stainless cavity back that was assembled with a softish shaft, full dowel treatment, along with one of the vibration dampening systems (ProSoft, Sensicore, strawsicore, something along those lines). It was easily as soft a feel, if not more so, than the Scratch CB irons another buddy had, shafted with KBS Tour Stiff. (same balls, same day hitting each)

It's said that 304 stainless is actually a softer material than 1030 carbon steel. It's been a while since I've looked at the Rockwell hardness figures for the assorted materials in question, but this was something talked about a LOT on golf forums a dozen years ago, so it sunk in a bit. :)

I'm running out of gas so I'll stop for now. Hope I didn't put y'all to sleep. LOL

last note: wouldn't call them "cast iron." No golf club is made of iron. ;)
(I know, I'm nitpicking again, lol at me)
[/quote]

I'm so sorry for missing your point earlier about the Aussie cast blades you played! #1 for feel from a guy with your experience says a lot.

I'm thinking maybe the market share war w/Japan forged is at play here too.

Also yes all those factors you mention play into feel beyond the base metal. I'm definitely a believer that clubhead design plays more of a factor than the metal itself in terms of feel. But...I still think forged is a better feel based on my limited comparison with Cleveland's CG2 proprietary cast and my MP-60 forged irons. Both were similar type of CBs but their shafts and other factors were different, so I'm still open to cast SS.

Oh yes and I'm duly schooled in regards to stating cast iron. Cast iron is a specific type of metal which most definitely no iron is made of! Excellent point and forgive my shorthand.

I have no issue if you keep going and going and going...

...You have so much golf tech knowledge and I love that you share it!

Edit: I noticed you somewhat related softness to feel. You said that the Aussie blade was the softest iron you have ever hit but I'm with Bigmean in that I don't necessarily equate the two. I think there's a point at which you can get so soft that you lose a little feel and feedback.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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