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Blade users thread (NO DEBATING CLUBHEADS! NO Buy Sell Trade!)


Bigmean

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Took the Mac-Cobras to the range last eve and 1st impression is they are simply the hardest to hit irons I ever tried, even by blade standards. I tip my hat to Mr. Norman for being #1 with these.

 

When nutted they are spectacular, soft feel, good distance and gobs of spin. I had range balls dancing. The Shark was known to back spin a lot of greens and these clubs had a hand in that.

 

When not, the distance and dispersion suffered more than most MB's I have played.

 

But I love them and when the 'A-swing' pays a visit to me, I will play them, till then Hogans stay in the bag.

 

Cheers.

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Really interested in this forum, I've seen a lot of talk that higher handicap players need to stay away from blades but on the other side blades are supposedly a training aid if you will. Myself being a plus 9 handicap looking to maximize my game should i look in to purchasing a set of old blades to help further my game? Also can't find an iron that isn't a blade or cb that fits my eye. currently gaming the MP-25 but them and everything else i SHOUL play as a plus handscap is to bulky.

 

Here are some questions to the forum that would help me answer some other questions i have about blades

 

What was your first experience switching into a bladed irons (Bladed irons players). My second question goes out to anyone who has played blades and doesn't anymore and anyone who has never owned a set of blades, Why don't you game blades?. My third question is simply what you personally think makes a great bladed iron?

 

1) My experience switching to blades (mp67s) at a 16 index was a positive one. I found that they enhanced my play on my good ballstriking days, and I am more likely able to shoot my personal best with blades in my bag. Overall they have been better for my game at any handicap, whether it be 16 or 8 or anything in between. But it is a marginal improvement over CBs and SGIs that is only most evident when I am playing well. Also I can't go back to CBs. I am a blades player for life. I used to switch back and forth between blades and CBs for almost 10 years. But not anymore. Blades give me the best ball control possible, feedback is great, and there really isn't a better feeling in golf than hitting a blade pure. There's really no need to play anything else. All CBs do for me is take away from my golf experience.

 

2) N/A (BLADES FOR LIFE!!!)

 

3) A great bladed iron is one that has a simple muscle that spans the length of the head. It should have relatively even thickness and height. There should be some muscle still attached to the hosel. It should be made from high quality steel, with minimal defect density and even carbon distribution throughout. Bounce should be minimal and the leading edge not too rounded.

 

The best 10 rounds of my life have been with blades.. I finally recently shot in the 70's, with blades. So, either I'm secretly an idiot and a scratch golfer, or blades are that scary.

 

FYI it is the technology behind the blade design that enables you to play your best golf (or to put it another way, the, at times, DETRIMENTAL technology of CB designs). The 'magic' is the physics. The only reason they are viewed as 'scary' or only for scratch golfers is because of duplicitous marketing by club manufacturers in the business of selling "forgiving" irons. They want you to believe that you aren't good enough for blades so that you make more forgiving iron purchases. Yet golfers of ANY skill level continue to shoot their lowest scores with blades. The reason is the BENEFICIAL science behind their design.

 

I definitely agree, although we know this as you and I have had this run around more than once on the same side.. haha.

 

I can also see where the other side comes from on it, a little.. If you have no swing, you're not going to get much out of these, (granted, you're not going to get much out of any club) but once you develop a swing (not necessarily wearing a dime-sized spot out of them, but something repetitive) you have more club to take advantage of. The shot shaping / shot manufacturing is uncanny with them. It takes some skill to utilize them, but I do truly believe that the options are better, and easier.

 

That being said, I do notice a difference in the long irons. I put in a lot of time this summer with the long irons, specifically my 3i, and I don't shudder when I am standing over the ball with it, and can make a confident pass with it with a reasonably high success rate. I picked up a T-MB 3i, and it's much less penalizing, and is easier to hit in general. However, at the end of the day, a flushed 3i blade feels like you just conquered the world! haha.

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The best 10 rounds of my life have been with blades.. I finally recently shot in the 70's, with blades. So, either I'm secretly an idiot and a scratch golfer, or blades are that scary.

 

 

My experience has been similar. My lowest scores, either relative to par (3 times) or total strokes (twice), have been with blades in the bag.

 

In May and June this year, I got my index to its second lowest level ever. I did it with blades and Eye2+ both. I played both for extended stretches and, ultimately, I found it didn't matter which were in the bag. My avg score for either were virtually identical, maybe a tenth of a stroke difference at most.

 

Not sure why, but Eye2+ are about the only CB set I can say that's true. In spite of their being nearly the antithesis of the type of irons I've used primarily for the last 16 seasons. Go figure.

 

Well surely if the majority of your golf is played with a particular genre of clubs, statistically the odds should lean in that direction right? :)

Surely x 2 you second point is all that matters: the swing is the thing!

 

I've played a minimum 10 rounds this year with 3 driver heads, 3 iron sets, and 2 wedge sets. And some combo of all those (except the wedges) has been in the bag during either my 'career low' shot this year, two potential career lows I clusterfcked away, or while I strung together a bunch of good rounds to reach my lowest ever index - which I am now climbing away from ;)

 

A golfer happened to be playing certain equipment when their swing got in the way and they went low. Enjoy it TC32 and long may it continue for you :)

 

BTW NRJ - regardless of the iron, I just think it's cool you are going out there with this 'old' equipment and knocking down flags, while a bunch of us (well me at least) keeps picking something newish and shiny off the shelf.

 

I started the year with a combo set, then went to CB's / players cavities, then went back to MB's. I have no idea what it was, but when I got my current set of MB's it's been magic ever since. That being said, you're right. In my sting of shooting 80 on the dot, I shot one of them with my apex pro's, and another with my 2013 x forged, but I really didn't feel like my ball striking was very good those days. Obviously, it had to be to some extent, but compared to my MB's, the turf interaction felt horrid. Chances are, they just fit my swing, but what you're saying, I think, is that a good golfer can shoot well with anything, and that's definitely true. It was a random day for me to do it. I was hitting a driver that I don't normally game, and it was my 2nd round with a couple new clubs, so it wasn't very expected, but the pieces fell together.

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Well surely if the majority of your golf is played with a particular genre of clubs, statistically the odds should lean in that direction right? :)

 

Well played, LOL :pimp:

 

The first instance of my personal best low score (73) was when I had blades in the bag to the exclusion of all else. The second instance is somewhat amusing...

 

It was late in the season when I'd spent a year playing my Eye2+. I'd bought them Sept, 2011, put them in the bag with the intent to keep them there a year. And I did. August 31 the next year, I pulled out my Wood Bros blades, which are too flat for me, and promptly shot 78. I put the Pings back in the bag, shot 10 strokes higher, most of which was likely not due to the Pings, of course. A friend of mine said something like, "you should put those blades back in, you hit them so well, maybe better than the Pings."

 

So I pulled out the Ram TG-898 set, and promptly shot the second 73 of my life, having left as many as six strokes on the greens with poor putting. By far the best round I've ever played, overall.

 

It's an amusing irony. :)

 

FWIW, this season, I shot a 74 with the Eye2+. I keep going back to them purely for launch condition reasons, the spin rate issue I think I mentioned recently. It's such a stark difference, especially when I play a premium ball, that it's hard to get past. My 2011 TP MC are something of an attempt to give me those spin rates with heavier shafts such as I usually play, and without the negative bounce in the long irons, such as the Eye2+ have. Yeah, first world problems.

 

 

 

BTW NRJ - regardless of the iron, I just think it's cool you are going out there with this 'old' equipment and knocking down flags, while a bunch of us (well me at least) keeps picking something newish and shiny off the shelf.

 

 

Thanks dude. Not sure I'm actually knocking down flags, though, more than very occasionally, but I appreciate the positive thoughts. :)

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini, NV75 or NV85 X -or- Cobra DarkSpeed LS, HZRDUS Green Smoke 70 X

Fwy woods:  TM SIM2 Ti, Aldila Tour Blue 85 X; King LTD 5w, RIP Beta 90 X (this may replace hybrid below)
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h or 3h, Modus 105 S 

Irons grab bag:  3-GW Maltby TS4, Modus 105 S; Tommy Armour 986 Tours 2-PW, Modus 105 S; Mizuno MS-11, Modus 120 S
Wedges:  Maltby Max Milled 56° 1.05 -or- Cobra Snakebite 56°
Putter:  Cleveland HB Soft2 #8S, 34"
Balls: Maxfli Tour, Callaway Chrome Soft

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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The best 10 rounds of my life have been with blades.. I finally recently shot in the 70's, with blades. So, either I'm secretly an idiot and a scratch golfer, or blades are that scary.

 

 

My experience has been similar. My lowest scores, either relative to par (3 times) or total strokes (twice), have been with blades in the bag.

 

In May and June this year, I got my index to its second lowest level ever. I did it with blades and Eye2+ both. I played both for extended stretches and, ultimately, I found it didn't matter which were in the bag. My avg score for either were virtually identical, maybe a tenth of a stroke difference at most.

 

Not sure why, but Eye2+ are about the only CB set I can say that's true. In spite of their being nearly the antithesis of the type of irons I've used primarily for the last 16 seasons. Go figure.

 

Well surely if the majority of your golf is played with a particular genre of clubs, statistically the odds should lean in that direction right? :)

Surely x 2 you second point is all that matters: the swing is the thing!

 

I've played a minimum 10 rounds this year with 3 driver heads, 3 iron sets, and 2 wedge sets. And some combo of all those (except the wedges) has been in the bag during either my 'career low' shot this year, two potential career lows I clusterfcked away, or while I strung together a bunch of good rounds to reach my lowest ever index - which I am now climbing away from ;)

 

A golfer happened to be playing certain equipment when their swing got in the way and they went low. Enjoy it TC32 and long may it continue for you :)

 

BTW NRJ - regardless of the iron, I just think it's cool you are going out there with this 'old' equipment and knocking down flags, while a bunch of us (well me at least) keeps picking something newish and shiny off the shelf.

 

I started the year with a combo set, then went to CB's / players cavities, then went back to MB's. I have no idea what it was, but when I got my current set of MB's it's been magic ever since. That being said, you're right. In my sting of shooting 80 on the dot, I shot one of them with my apex pro's, and another with my 2013 x forged, but I really didn't feel like my ball striking was very good those days. Obviously, it had to be to some extent, but compared to my MB's, the turf interaction felt horrid. Chances are, they just fit my swing, but what you're saying, I think, is that a good golfer can shoot well with anything, and that's definitely true. It was a random day for me to do it. I was hitting a driver that I don't normally game, and it was my 2nd round with a couple new clubs, so it wasn't very expected, but the pieces fell together.

 

Oh sure :) Somethings suit and others don't and bringing it all together is great!

Anything that makes you want to play the game and enjoy ballstriking is a winner in my books. And being a lefty I am guessing you don't quite have the MB selection those of us on the other side of the ball have.

 

Now the question is - will your ho-ey ness allow you to sell any of those sets?

You plan on sticking with the classy Miura BBs for an extended stretch? Such tough decisions ;)

[url="http://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vTOZNxdsDKajrKxaUCRjcU8eB7URcAMpaCWN-67Bt6QG8rmBUPYW3QAQ7k87BlYizIMKJzEhuzqr9OQ/pubhtml?gid=0&single=true"]WITB[/url] | [url="http://tinyurl.com/CoursesPlayedList"]Courses Played list[/url] |  [url="http://tinyurl.com/25GolfingFaves"] 25 Faves [/url]

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The best 10 rounds of my life have been with blades.. I finally recently shot in the 70's, with blades. So, either I'm secretly an idiot and a scratch golfer, or blades are that scary.

 

FYI it is the technology behind the blade design that enables you to play your best golf (or to put it another way, the, at times, DETRIMENTAL technology of CB designs). The 'magic' is the physics. The only reason they are viewed as 'scary' or only for scratch golfers is because of duplicitous marketing by club manufacturers in the business of selling "forgiving" irons. They want you to believe that you aren't good enough for blades so that you make more forgiving iron purchases. Yet golfers of ANY skill level continue to shoot their lowest scores with blades. The reason is the BENEFICIAL science behind their design.

 

I definitely agree, although we know this as you and I have had this run around more than once on the same side.. haha.

 

I can also see where the other side comes from on it, a little.. If you have no swing, you're not going to get much out of these, (granted, you're not going to get much out of any club) but once you develop a swing (not necessarily wearing a dime-sized spot out of them, but something repetitive) you have more club to take advantage of. The shot shaping / shot manufacturing is uncanny with them. It takes some skill to utilize them, but I do truly believe that the options are better, and easier.

 

That being said, I do notice a difference in the long irons. I put in a lot of time this summer with the long irons, specifically my 3i, and I don't shudder when I am standing over the ball with it, and can make a confident pass with it with a reasonably high success rate. I picked up a T-MB 3i, and it's much less penalizing, and is easier to hit in general. However, at the end of the day, a flushed 3i blade feels like you just conquered the world! haha.

 

LOL yes I remember a 'debate' thread you started years ago. The duplicitous marketing by CB manufacturers has had a lasting effect on many WRXers.

 

My contention about not having a swing and not getting much out of a blade is that you will not get much out of any club, so it doesn't matter. Furthermore, by increasing the face surface area and the size of the sole, the golfer is going to struggle with clean ball contact MORE than he would with a smaller head design. This fundamental issue will conflict and possibly negate any other 'benefits' brought about by the supposedly more 'forgiving' design.

 

Without getting into the t**-for-tat details of every single feature and its detriment and/or benefit, the bottom line is that the 'forgiving' club manufacturers have simply exploited the negative feedback of a blade and that ultimately is what the ignorant golfer construes as "penalized" mishit. It's nothing but a mind f*ck on the ignorant golfer. All other things equal, mishits just FEEL worse with a blade, and that is a powerful psychological issue.

 

I understand what you say about the long irons, but really the science, good and bad, for both club designs applies universally across all lofts. Meaning, what motivates one to play a short iron blade *should* be the same motivation to play a long iron blade. The science, other than the loft difference, is the same. I have played a 3i SGI, CB, players CB, blade, and 7w alternative, and in my experience there is a point where the wide sole of CB and SGI became more detrimental than the other supposed 'forgiving' features. And it wasn't until I went to a 7w with completely different technology than an iron where I found a reasonable alternative to my blade 3i. The in between iron designs were actually worse (w/SGI) or at best they did not help any more than the blade (w/player's CB). And even with a 7w in the bag, I can't claim to have better scoring performance with it over the blade 3i. It is stupid easy to hit, but again, the same universally across all my blades, I get better precision and ball control on good strikes with my 3i blade. So now I will play the 7w based on my mood and course conditions and not really for 'forgiveness'.

 

And to be clear, I'm not saying your T-MB experience is wrong. I completely understand how it will feel less penalizing. And also what I'm saying is that those 3i blade shots where you feel like you conquered the world *may* have been even better compared to the alternative.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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I got an itch for unusual clubs after reading the thread about European club manufacturers. I'm toying with the idea of ordering a set of these:

http://www.orkagolf.com/products/rs1/

 

Or these: http://www.coopergolf.com/forged-irons/cooper-cp25-iron-raw

The cooper wedges look pretty nice as well: http://www.coopergolf.com/tour-series-wedges/cooper-tour-series-v-grind-wedge-raw

 

I could order a set and pick them up when I am over in the UK next....the weak pound makes it especially tempting.

 

 

Only glanced att hat he pics but I'm certain those are Kyoei forgings ( vega) and look like a good deal !

TM Brnr mini 11.5 tensie 1k pro blue 60 

TM Sim2 max tour  16.5* GD  ADHD 7 

Ping i530 4-Uw AWT 2.0 

Ping Glide 4.0  53 59 AWT 2.0 

LAB Mezz Max armlock TPT shaft  78* 

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Nope, I have putters with nippon, tt, whatever scotty and byron use, I think their overall weight is similar. Putting is by far my strongest suit, especially this year, and I don't mean it as some kind of lame I ternet brag, but the only reason I have clung to a single cap this summer with my tee issues is becuase I make a fair amount of 8-25ft putts and miss them with a ft left or make the trouble I left coming back. Reason I am saying that is becuase that said, I cannot whatsoever discern shaft differences despite having a really good feel for speed and hitting the center. Like NONE. I don't know at what level of putter you would have to be to really catch a nuance in shaft beyond overall weight. I can't imagine.

 

Now this year I have predominantly used one putter, but I did last year too. For me, speed aside, the biggest part of a putter is your ability to have it on the line you see a foot or so after it leaves the face. In this, I prefer the alignment mills I had done as my current putter but this is really only most helpful for me from 0-15ft. After that you are really

Just feeling a line and speed and feeding it. Pitter head weight I have found makes a large difference as well, which is the second reason and main one I sent them off. Whether you like lighter or heavier headweights is irrelevant, but I think that "feel" at the end of the shaft helps in a consistant strike. After using my heavier putter I cannot use 330g any more without having to adjust for speed a lot and I think speed is more important than lines in putting.

 

Now, all that said, I did buy a fire express putter shaft sorta impulsively a week ago on yahoo auction becuase I had like $60 in yen sitting in my account, and I don't need anything at all and I won it for $55. I am not sure what plumber neck to put it on yet(lajosi maybe I hope it fits the byron?), but it is a $220 shaft which is absurd so what the hell and still 130g, and while I expect the graphite to maybe feel muted, I got it only becuase I thought it was novelty cool and a steal. I will let you know if it is any different but I highly doubt it......if you read the propaganda on their website and believe it I should notice a difference......I am one of the most skeptical humans on the planet, so I am ok knowing I bought it becuase it looks cool and was a bargain, because I am sure that is all it will be Hahahaha,

 

Sorry so long for an easy answer, I am in the shop watching machines and bored......

 

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LOL the only function of the putter shaft is to make sure the head stays square from the force of impact with the ball. At the clubhead velocities of concern, a wooden shaft would suffice. The only thing that will change with shaft is the feel...and only if the material changes.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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I got an itch for unusual clubs after reading the thread about European club manufacturers. I'm toying with the idea of ordering a set of these:

http://www.orkagolf.com/products/rs1/

 

Or these: http://www.coopergolf.com/forged-irons/cooper-cp25-iron-raw

The cooper wedges look pretty nice as well: http://www.coopergolf.com/tour-series-wedges/cooper-tour-series-v-grind-wedge-raw

 

I could order a set and pick them up when I am over in the UK next....the weak pound makes it especially tempting.

 

 

Only glanced att hat he pics but I'm certain those are Kyoei forgings ( vega) and look like a good deal !

 

Coopers are indeed Kyoei. They're the same blank as the flatback with just a touch of offset.

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The little attention I give to a putter shaft is the length, type of bend and the grip installed.

 

I prefer 33"-34" length with radius bend to the heel of putter and I adopted to fat minimal tapered grips.

 

How all things size up in swing weight and ease to square up to path ( I like my eyes over line) is more important . Mallet putters work better for me.

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However, at the end of the day, a flushed 3i blade feels like you just conquered the world! haha.

Yes, I understand this feeling, but what then is a flushed 1i blade? I find it tremendously difficult to keep any kind of decorum with great shots from the long irons.

 

Never hit a 1i, but based on extrapolating the analogy, it should feel like you conquered the universe.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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The best 10 rounds of my life have been with blades.. I finally recently shot in the 70's, with blades. So, either I'm secretly an idiot and a scratch golfer, or blades are that scary.

 

 

My experience has been similar. My lowest scores, either relative to par (3 times) or total strokes (twice), have been with blades in the bag.

 

In May and June this year, I got my index to its second lowest level ever. I did it with blades and Eye2+ both. I played both for extended stretches and, ultimately, I found it didn't matter which were in the bag. My avg score for either were virtually identical, maybe a tenth of a stroke difference at most.

 

Not sure why, but Eye2+ are about the only CB set I can say that's true. In spite of their being nearly the antithesis of the type of irons I've used primarily for the last 16 seasons. Go figure.

 

Well surely if the majority of your golf is played with a particular genre of clubs, statistically the odds should lean in that direction right? :)

Surely x 2 you second point is all that matters: the swing is the thing!

 

I've played a minimum 10 rounds this year with 3 driver heads, 3 iron sets, and 2 wedge sets. And some combo of all those (except the wedges) has been in the bag during either my 'career low' shot this year, two potential career lows I clusterfcked away, or while I strung together a bunch of good rounds to reach my lowest ever index - which I am now climbing away from ;)

 

A golfer happened to be playing certain equipment when their swing got in the way and they went low. Enjoy it TC32 and long may it continue for you :)

 

BTW NRJ - regardless of the iron, I just think it's cool you are going out there with this 'old' equipment and knocking down flags, while a bunch of us (well me at least) keeps picking something newish and shiny off the shelf.

 

I started the year with a combo set, then went to CB's / players cavities, then went back to MB's. I have no idea what it was, but when I got my current set of MB's it's been magic ever since. That being said, you're right. In my sting of shooting 80 on the dot, I shot one of them with my apex pro's, and another with my 2013 x forged, but I really didn't feel like my ball striking was very good those days. Obviously, it had to be to some extent, but compared to my MB's, the turf interaction felt horrid. Chances are, they just fit my swing, but what you're saying, I think, is that a good golfer can shoot well with anything, and that's definitely true. It was a random day for me to do it. I was hitting a driver that I don't normally game, and it was my 2nd round with a couple new clubs, so it wasn't very expected, but the pieces fell together.

 

Oh sure :) Somethings suit and others don't and bringing it all together is great!

Anything that makes you want to play the game and enjoy ballstriking is a winner in my books. And being a lefty I am guessing you don't quite have the MB selection those of us on the other side of the ball have.

 

Now the question is - will your ho-ey ness allow you to sell any of those sets?

You plan on sticking with the classy Miura BBs for an extended stretch? Such tough decisions ;)

 

The Miura BB's shall not be hoe'd. I have instructed more than one person to bury me with them if I should suggest selling them. There's some very nice options out there for right handed players, but very few for lefties, and I just don't really see where "up" is from here with irons. They're going in for re-finishing this winter, so it'll feel like I'm getting a new set anyways :). Id like to try a set of PXG 0311T's at some point, but the BB's shall stay. I have another set of Miura's and a few other sets of irons that I can HO' away if I get bit to try something new.

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Amen Tcann32, to ho a set of Miura BBs is something only a ninny would do.

 

Last Sat I played with Matt J, a lefty, and got to see his Miura LH CBs in person...beautiful club and design (LOL for a CB)...I think it is the one example of a LH club option that is better than any RH option. LOL for once lefties are not screwed. Makes me think Miura-san is part Canadian.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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Just started another cnc cycle so more time to kill, now you all are subjected to more putting thoughts by some hack golfer on the Internet that thinks they are a good putter!

 

**Warning, putting tangent**

 

So I was once a terrible putter. I also once drove it long and mostly straight, this game really does suck.....anyway, I had no money in college, not enough to play more than twice a month, so I went through a period of a year where my thing to do to relax if I had time was partake in some "mental game" and go to the course with the nicest putting green by my apartment. at some point in this amidst lots of ineffective practice, pace dawned on me. I was so focused on hitting s line, even the right line with wrong pace was no good. So I worked a lot on feel of pace. A drill I liked to do was give myself a 10 footer with break and make putts using 3 different lines. It really hammered down the concept that there is no right line, just a right "feel" of line and speed.

 

I think with putting everyone becomes obsessed with hitting it on line, but that is the cart before the horse of repeatable speed, or more importantly repeatable speed control and then choosing a speed first, and then a line for it. Ben Crenshaw said he always took the highest line possible, by default, his misses are close. My biggest fault today is that I miss more putts high than low, but I do employ that similar mentality unless uphill and I want to take any possible break out of it.

 

So if anyone here is struggling with putting, give it a try on oractice to forget about the line and focus on the speed, then try to make the same oitt on different lines, eventually this did wonders for me and making putts at this point isn't as important as you gain a greater "sense" of rolling it.

 

Lastly, mental. next on my agenda is this rotella book. I will read it this winter. I missed so many putts before I addressed the ball. "I need to make this birdie putt, I won't be this close again". Screw all that. You have to find a way to WANT to have a putt, to be excited to MAKE a putt, hard to explain but you just need to feel like you expect to 1 putt every hole and be Teflon to your misses regarding your self confidence. Sub 30 putts comes from a putter who expects to putt 18 times, even if they have 34 putts through 17 when lining up that putt on the last. If you miss a 8ft one for birdie on one hole, believe you are making the 18ft one for par on the next. Approach putting like a game within the game, it doesn't matter if for birdie or bogie, you are now on a green and it is a clean slate, forget what it is for, it is a new game and you are trying to make everything inside 20ft, not get it close.

 

I just love putting now(can you tell?), and I used to fear it.

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Amen Tcann32, to ho a set of Miura BBs is something only a ninny would do.

 

Last Sat I played with Matt J, a lefty, and got to see his Miura LH CBs in person...beautiful club and design (LOL for a CB)...I think it is the one example of a LH club option that is better than any RH option. LOL for once lefties are not screwed. Makes me think Miura-san is part Canadian.

 

I have a set of those that I'll be re-finishing as well. I actually have had them for like.. 2 months and haven't hit them yet. How does Matt J like his?? haha.

 

They are beautiful clubs.. I do wish they made the 501's for lefties though.. and stop complaining, you get the 1957's! haha.

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Just started another cnc cycle so more time to kill, now you all are subjected to more putting thoughts by some hack golfer on the Internet that thinks they are a good putter!

 

**Warning, putting tangent**

 

So I was once a terrible putter. I also once drove it long and mostly straight, this game really does suck.....anyway, I had no money in college, not enough to play more than twice a month, so I went through a period of a year where my thing to do to relax if I had time was partake in some "mental game" and go to the course with the nicest putting green by my apartment. at some point in this amidst lots of ineffective practice, pace dawned on me. I was so focused on hitting s line, even the right line with wrong pace was no good. So I worked a lot on feel of pace. A drill I liked to do was give myself a 10 footer with break and make putts using 3 different lines. It really hammered down the concept that there is no right line, just a right "feel" of line and speed.

 

I think with putting everyone becomes obsessed with hitting it on line, but that is the cart before the horse of repeatable speed, or more importantly repeatable speed control and then choosing a speed first, and then a line for it. Ben Crenshaw said he always took the highest line possible, by default, his misses are close. My biggest fault today is that I miss more putts high than low, but I do employ that similar mentality unless uphill and I want to take any possible break out of it.

 

So if anyone here is struggling with putting, give it a try on oractice to forget about the line and focus on the speed, then try to make the same oitt on different lines, eventually this did wonders for me and making putts at this point isn't as important as you gain a greater "sense" of rolling it.

 

Lastly, mental. next on my agenda is this rotella book. I will read it this winter. I missed so many putts before I addressed the ball. "I need to make this birdie putt, I won't be this close again". Screw all that. You have to find a way to WANT to have a putt, to be excited to MAKE a putt, hard to explain but you just need to feel like you expect to 1 putt every hole and be Teflon to your misses regarding your self confidence. Sub 30 putts comes from a putter who expects to putt 18 times, even if they have 34 putts through 17 when lining up that putt on the last. If you miss a 8ft one for birdie on one hole, believe you are making the 18ft one for par on the next. Approach putting like a game within the game, it doesn't matter if for birdie or bogie, you are now on a green and it is a clean slate, forget what it is for, it is a new game and you are trying to make everything inside 20ft, not get it close.

 

I just love putting now(can you tell?), and I used to fear it.

 

You're dead on.. If I miss read the line of a putt (a reasonable putt) I won't miss it by more than a foot or two, and those are the rounds that I never 3 putt.

 

The rounds that I get in my head and think about line and forget about pace, those are the rounds that I miss by 4' short or long and have 3 putts.

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Biggie, regardless of the brutal reality, you gotta think like a rock star on the green. Like you have "BAD MFer" embroidered on you putter head cover. Good putting starts with 'tude.

 

And yeah I am on board with Crenshaw's philosophy...let the ball fall into the front of the cup rather than clang into the back of it.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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LOL the only function of the putter shaft is to make sure the head stays square from the force of impact with the ball. At the clubhead velocities of concern, a wooden shaft would suffice. The only thing that will change with shaft is the feel...and only if the material changes.

I would say that the 'fluted' Headspeed shaft fitted in the Wilson 8802/8813 putters must have something to do with the feel...I've owned umpteen putters and nothing comes close to the feel of my 8813.

Callaway Big Bertha Alpha Fubuki ZT Stiff
Callaway XR Speed 3W Project X HZRDUS T800 65 Stiff
Wilson Staff FG Tour M3 21* Hybrid Aldila RIP Stiff
Cobra King CB/MB Flow 4-6, 7-PW C-Taper Stiff or Mizuno MP4 4-PW
Vokey SM8 52/58; MD Golf 56
Radius Classic 8

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Just started another cnc cycle so more time to kill, now you all are subjected to more putting thoughts by some hack golfer on the Internet that thinks they are a good putter!

 

**Warning, putting tangent**

 

So I was once a terrible putter. I also once drove it long and mostly straight, this game really does suck.....anyway, I had no money in college, not enough to play more than twice a month, so I went through a period of a year where my thing to do to relax if I had time was partake in some "mental game" and go to the course with the nicest putting green by my apartment. at some point in this amidst lots of ineffective practice, pace dawned on me. I was so focused on hitting s line, even the right line with wrong pace was no good. So I worked a lot on feel of pace. A drill I liked to do was give myself a 10 footer with break and make putts using 3 different lines. It really hammered down the concept that there is no right line, just a right "feel" of line and speed.

 

I think with putting everyone becomes obsessed with hitting it on line, but that is the cart before the horse of repeatable speed, or more importantly repeatable speed control and then choosing a speed first, and then a line for it. Ben Crenshaw said he always took the highest line possible, by default, his misses are close. My biggest fault today is that I miss more putts high than low, but I do employ that similar mentality unless uphill and I want to take any possible break out of it.

 

So if anyone here is struggling with putting, give it a try on oractice to forget about the line and focus on the speed, then try to make the same oitt on different lines, eventually this did wonders for me and making putts at this point isn't as important as you gain a greater "sense" of rolling it.

 

Lastly, mental. next on my agenda is this rotella book. I will read it this winter. I missed so many putts before I addressed the ball. "I need to make this birdie putt, I won't be this close again". Screw all that. You have to find a way to WANT to have a putt, to be excited to MAKE a putt, hard to explain but you just need to feel like you expect to 1 putt every hole and be Teflon to your misses regarding your self confidence. Sub 30 putts comes from a putter who expects to putt 18 times, even if they have 34 putts through 17 when lining up that putt on the last. If you miss a 8ft one for birdie on one hole, believe you are making the 18ft one for par on the next. Approach putting like a game within the game, it doesn't matter if for birdie or bogie, you are now on a green and it is a clean slate, forget what it is for, it is a new game and you are trying to make everything inside 20ft, not get it close.

 

I just love putting now(can you tell?), and I used to fear it.

 

The Rotella book really does make you look at putting in a different way...it has helped me loads and I end up re-reading it at least once a season.

Callaway Big Bertha Alpha Fubuki ZT Stiff
Callaway XR Speed 3W Project X HZRDUS T800 65 Stiff
Wilson Staff FG Tour M3 21* Hybrid Aldila RIP Stiff
Cobra King CB/MB Flow 4-6, 7-PW C-Taper Stiff or Mizuno MP4 4-PW
Vokey SM8 52/58; MD Golf 56
Radius Classic 8

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Amen Tcann32, to ho a set of Miura BBs is something only a ninny would do.

 

Last Sat I played with Matt J, a lefty, and got to see his Miura LH CBs in person...beautiful club and design (LOL for a CB)...I think it is the one example of a LH club option that is better than any RH option. LOL for once lefties are not screwed. Makes me think Miura-san is part Canadian.

 

I have a set of those that I'll be re-finishing as well. I actually have had them for like.. 2 months and haven't hit them yet. How does Matt J like his?? haha.

 

They are beautiful clubs.. I do wish they made the 501's for lefties though.. and stop complaining, you get the 1957's! haha.

 

Matt J is like me with my BBs...gamers for sure, in love, overly possessive, looking to extend the lifetime as long as possible.

 

You've gone 2 months with a set of Miuras without hitting them? What da fuq? (I keed.)

 

And I'm definitely not complaining. I just empathize with lefty golfers. And I have no need or desire to play a CB. But if I did, I would want those LH CB Miuras.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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The Miura BB's shall not be hoe'd. I have instructed more than one person to bury me with them if I should suggest selling them. There's some very nice options out there for right handed players, but very few for lefties, and I just don't really see where "up" is from here with irons. They're going in for re-finishing this winter, so it'll feel like I'm getting a new set anyways :). Id like to try a set of PXG 0311T's at some point, but the BB's shall stay. I have another set of Miura's and a few other sets of irons that I can HO' away if I get bit to try something new.

 

Haha - good to have some keepers. I sympathise with hoing the higher end stuff!

I've seen some Epons and Yonex MBs that have really piqued my interest, but I cannot get my head around the price. I like d1cking about at the $500 range, no blood no foul there. I'd feel totally compelled to play and stick with a bigger ticket item... although maybe that's the way to go? ;)

Agreed on the 0311Ts. Hit them. Liked them. But I've already got S55s, haha.

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LOL the only function of the putter shaft is to make sure the head stays square from the force of impact with the ball. At the clubhead velocities of concern, a wooden shaft would suffice. The only thing that will change with shaft is the feel...and only if the material changes.

I would say that the 'fluted' Headspeed shaft fitted in the Wilson 8802/8813 putters must have something to do with the feel...I've owned umpteen putters and nothing comes close to the feel of my 8813.

 

 

I've heard it said you can approximate this by using a senior flex, or even ladies flex, iron shaft as your putter shaft. The softer flex of the shaft, even in the smooth putting stroke, can add to the feel.

 

I've done it, it really takes some getting used to. You can't pop at your putts too well with this idea. LOL

 

Amusingly, I'm using a DGS shaft in my Snake Eyes 8802-ish putter....

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini, NV75 or NV85 X -or- Cobra DarkSpeed LS, HZRDUS Green Smoke 70 X

Fwy woods:  TM SIM2 Ti, Aldila Tour Blue 85 X; King LTD 5w, RIP Beta 90 X (this may replace hybrid below)
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h or 3h, Modus 105 S 

Irons grab bag:  3-GW Maltby TS4, Modus 105 S; Tommy Armour 986 Tours 2-PW, Modus 105 S; Mizuno MS-11, Modus 120 S
Wedges:  Maltby Max Milled 56° 1.05 -or- Cobra Snakebite 56°
Putter:  Cleveland HB Soft2 #8S, 34"
Balls: Maxfli Tour, Callaway Chrome Soft

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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LOL the only function of the putter shaft is to make sure the head stays square from the force of impact with the ball. At the clubhead velocities of concern, a wooden shaft would suffice. The only thing that will change with shaft is the feel...and only if the material changes.

I would say that the 'fluted' Headspeed shaft fitted in the Wilson 8802/8813 putters must have something to do with the feel...I've owned umpteen putters and nothing comes close to the feel of my 8813.

 

 

I've heard it said you can approximate this by using a senior flex, or even ladies flex, iron shaft as your putter shaft. The softer flex of the shaft, even in the smooth putting stroke, can add to the feel.

 

I've done it, it really takes some getting used to. You can't pop at your putts too well with this idea. LOL

 

Amusingly, I'm using a DGS shaft in my Snake Eyes 8802-ish putter....

 

BTW, I didn't say I could putt with my 8813 ;-)...

 

Seriously, as a true blade putter, it does mirror my experience with blade irons. I've had my best putting rounds with the 8813 (23 putts, twice)...but my consistency with it is not the greatest. Usually I can miss 4-5 three footers to the left every round which is usually offset by holing a thirty footer to rescue a bogey :-/

Callaway Big Bertha Alpha Fubuki ZT Stiff
Callaway XR Speed 3W Project X HZRDUS T800 65 Stiff
Wilson Staff FG Tour M3 21* Hybrid Aldila RIP Stiff
Cobra King CB/MB Flow 4-6, 7-PW C-Taper Stiff or Mizuno MP4 4-PW
Vokey SM8 52/58; MD Golf 56
Radius Classic 8

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LOL the only function of the putter shaft is to make sure the head stays square from the force of impact with the ball. At the clubhead velocities of concern, a wooden shaft would suffice. The only thing that will change with shaft is the feel...and only if the material changes.

I would say that the 'fluted' Headspeed shaft fitted in the Wilson 8802/8813 putters must have something to do with the feel...I've owned umpteen putters and nothing comes close to the feel of my 8813.

 

 

I've heard it said you can approximate this by using a senior flex, or even ladies flex, iron shaft as your putter shaft. The softer flex of the shaft, even in the smooth putting stroke, can add to the feel.

 

I've done it, it really takes some getting used to. You can't pop at your putts too well with this idea. LOL

 

Amusingly, I'm using a DGS shaft in my Snake Eyes 8802-ish putter....

 

BTW, I didn't say I could putt with my 8813 ;-)...

 

Seriously, as a true blade putter, it does mirror my experience with blade irons. I've had my best putting rounds with the 8813 (23 putts, twice)...but my consistency with it is not the greatest. Usually I can miss 4-5 three footers to the left every round which is usually offset by holing a thirty footer to rescue a bogey :-/

 

 

For what little it's worth, my experiences have been similar. I probably putt best with some form of Anser style, maybe a TPA XVIII style for the heel shafted effect.

 

I've been trying a mallet for the last week or more and my distance control with it is absolute garbage. I'd thought about picking up one of the Ping mallets, like a Scottsdale TR Craz-E, or a Ketsch, but the recent usage has given serious doubts.

 

The Snake Eyes Viper Tour I use is surprisingly forgiving. Golfsmith used to show the MOI of their putter heads, I believe the MOI of this heel shafted blade is around 4k. I'm guessing the size and weight of it are part of that; it's a touch larger than my Designed By or Golden Ram TW Custom, both heel to toe and face to back, and it weighs around 355g to 360g, such as I remember.

 

Which could be why I putt better with it than with the Designed By or Golden Ram. :)

 

I should just suck it up and get an Anser Milled, or maybe extend my Mizuno TP Mills. The Karsten 1959 Anser2 I've got doesn't quite do it for me, I guess I've developed too much of a fondness for the carbon steel putter heads. ;)

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini, NV75 or NV85 X -or- Cobra DarkSpeed LS, HZRDUS Green Smoke 70 X

Fwy woods:  TM SIM2 Ti, Aldila Tour Blue 85 X; King LTD 5w, RIP Beta 90 X (this may replace hybrid below)
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h or 3h, Modus 105 S 

Irons grab bag:  3-GW Maltby TS4, Modus 105 S; Tommy Armour 986 Tours 2-PW, Modus 105 S; Mizuno MS-11, Modus 120 S
Wedges:  Maltby Max Milled 56° 1.05 -or- Cobra Snakebite 56°
Putter:  Cleveland HB Soft2 #8S, 34"
Balls: Maxfli Tour, Callaway Chrome Soft

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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      Brendan Valdes - WITB - 2025 John Deere Classic
      Cristobal del Solar - WITB - 2025 John Deere Classic
      Dylan Frittelli - WITB - 2025 John Deere Classic
       
       
       
       
       
      Pullout Albums
       
      Justin Lowers new Cameron putter - 2025 John Deere Classic
      Bettinardi new Core Carbon putters - 2025 John Deere Classic
      Cameron putter - 2025 John Deere Classic
      Cameron putter covers - 2025 John Deere Classic
       
       
       
       
       
       
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