Blade users thread (NO DEBATING CLUBHEADS! NO Buy Sell Trade!)

[mahonie]

NRJ, through trial and error I have found that the Anser style is the best compromise for me too. Distance control is not as good as the 8813, but I don't miss many three-footers. I've tried mallets and like you, distance control is pants. I've just bought another Bobby Grace MacGregor Captiva with the distance control insert after selling my original one a couple of years ago which is working...for now...I have looked getting another Wilson 8883 (again!) to get the heel-shafted feel. I'll soon be back up to ten putters again having got the collection down to three.

[NRJyzr]

Speaking of missing to the left...

 

I picked up a Tad Moore Pro 1 P putter last year. It's not too dissimilarly shaped to the TM-2 of yore. I thought it would be great to use, and at first, it was lovely. But then I found myself pulling putts far too often, something I don't actually do with the heel shafted stuff.

 

I guess it just doesn't fit with my stroke. :(

[mahonie]

Coincidentally, the Rife Cayman Brac appeals very much to my eye and looks similar to the TM-2...resisted the temptation so far but there are some brand new ones available for £70 in the U.K. However, if that shape is a 'hook machine' I'll stay away.

[Nard_S]

NRJ, through trial and error I have found that the Anser style is the best compromise for me too. Distance control is not as good as the 8813, but I don't miss many three-footers. I've tried mallets and like you, distance control is pants. I've just bought another Bobby Grace MacGregor Captiva with the distance control insert after selling my original one a couple of years ago which is working...for now...I have looked getting another Wilson 8883 (again!) to get the heel-shafted feel. I'll soon be back up to ten putters again having got the collection down to three.

 

I hear you on this and it is why I choose mallets that are light in over all head weight. Some mallets are too heavy and imo promote a decelerating stroke.

I find Anser types too distracting to the eyeball, I like near pear shape mallets with a clean line for each plane. Used to use Ray Cooke MX, been using Kevin Burns model which I love.

[Bigmean]

For all my putter fetishism I have never, never owned a mallet style or close. I keep meaning to get one, but I don't know, even in pictures on the Internet they don't call out to me....I am going to get one eventually, eventually one has to catch my eye. I have had some 8802 styles, even the bettinardi bb2, but I am Not good with those either. I am really curious and hopefully optimistic that my studio with the mods ays like a bladed answer style......I love that putter, but struggle most on shorter putts with it.

[mahonie]

NRJ, through trial and error I have found that the Anser style is the best compromise for me too. Distance control is not as good as the 8813, but I don't miss many three-footers. I've tried mallets and like you, distance control is pants. I've just bought another Bobby Grace MacGregor Captiva with the distance control insert after selling my original one a couple of years ago which is working...for now...I have looked getting another Wilson 8883 (again!) to get the heel-shafted feel. I'll soon be back up to ten putters again having got the collection down to three.

 

I hear you on this and it is why I choose mallets that are light in over all head weight. Some mallets are too heavy and imo promote a decelerating stroke.

I find Anser types too distracting to the eyeball, I like near pear shape mallets with a clean line for each plane. Used to use Ray Cooke MX, been using Kevin Burns model which I love.

 

My other issue is that I have a slight arc to my stroke which I can't get to work well with face balanced putters. I see the amount of Odyssey #7s in play and wonder whether I ought to try harder on a SBST stroke

[Bigmean]

If you want to read a load of crap, this is the putter shaft I got....

 

http://www.tourspecgolf.com/fire-express-pt130-putter-shaft

 

But hey, For $20 more than a normal shaft I will try it I guess......

[DeNinny]

Mallets are easier to hold steady but harder for distance control.

 

Blade putters are excellent for distance control but you need steadier hands to keep the face at the same angle.

 

Pick your poison.

[NRJyzr]

Coincidentally, the Rife Cayman Brac appeals very much to my eye and looks similar to the TM-2...resisted the temptation so far but there are some brand new ones available for £70 in the U.K. However, if that shape is a 'hook machine' I'll stay away.

 

 

It is for me, but it may not be for you. Have to try it for yourself

[mahonie]

Coincidentally, the Rife Cayman Brac appeals very much to my eye and looks similar to the TM-2...resisted the temptation so far but there are some brand new ones available for £70 in the U.K. However, if that shape is a 'hook machine' I'll stay away.

 

 

It is for me, but it may not be for you. Have to try it for yourself

 

I know...wife won't be happy if another putter turns up in the office though ;-)

[Sir Slicealot]

I play blades and an 8802. Always have the 'tude, otherwise you're...rotating inclined planed.?

[DeNinny]

A blade player named 'Sir Slicealot' has GOT to have some 'tude. Almost goes without saying.

[Blade Junkie]

Mallets are easier to hold steady but harder for distance control.

 

Blade putters are excellent for distance control but you need steadier hands to keep the face at the same angle.

 

Pick your poison.

 

Have any of you considered carrying two putters ? Your "Crenshaw" blade for longer putts and a mallet for the short ones that you tend to miss with your blade ?

[DeNinny]

Mallets are easier to hold steady but harder for distance control.

 

Blade putters are excellent for distance control but you need steadier hands to keep the face at the same angle.

 

Pick your poison.

 

Have any of you considered carrying two putters ? Your "Crenshaw" blade for longer putts and a mallet for the short ones that you tend to miss with your blade ?

 

But then I would create a gap somewhere else in my bag. It is an interesting suggestion, but with my Bosa mallet I am making more of those longer comeback misses from poor long putt distance control. My solution is to get better at distance control with a mallet.

[Kathy Marie]

Have any of you considered carrying two putters ? Your "Crenshaw" blade for longer putts and a mallet for the short ones that you tend to miss with your blade ?

 

I DID this until my pro had kittens about it. I played a 20th anniversary RAM Zebra mallet and a Wilson Tour Special II (basically an 8802.) Just made sense to me, after all you're using 13 clubs for half the shots in your game & only ONE for the other half??!

 

But I don't understand what everyone is talking about with your mallet/blade putters. I used my Tour Special for shorter putts & the RAM for longer lags and they worked great!

 

In fact I bought the RAM when I made back-to-back 15 footers with it in the store. Try one! There's a reason they were everywhere....

 

 

:wave:

 

 

KM

[Sir Slicealot]

A blade player named 'Sir Slicealot' has GOT to have some 'tude. Almost goes without saying.

I always say, "If you can't be a legend, be a character."

[DeNinny]

KM, psycholgy and 'tude trumps club tech almost always. The technical reason a blade is good for distance control is because it is lighter. This allows your hands to use less energy in making those fine adjustments in order to feel the right pace. Plus actual impact is felt more since the ball is a bigger contributor to the total momentum change.

[Bigmean]

So the answer is heavier blade putters??

 

Good thing I Just shafted two up :)

[Nard_S]

Interested to hear thoughts:

 

I am open to trying a 'blade' 8802 type putter, what do people here feel is the pinnacle of them? The original Wilson 8802 or a derivative from them and or someone else?

[Sir Slicealot]

I'd try the most inexpensive way first...

[Bigmean]

Had the bb2, it was nice but overpriced, good for resale though...I imagine the Napa is same, never had it. The is a John Byron version that could have been had for $100 or less if you pound eBay, looked nice. The 8802 re release is supposed to be nice. There is that English company, also a Scottish one too I believe. I would say with this style putter, you probably see the least gains in a higher dollar one, so I would hang in the lower priced used ones. Never compromise had one that looked to be really good. At one time I had a "Dinero" NC and I must say, great putter for the money and soft. It is a modern take on the style with the sole graphics and all, but my NC was really legit soft in a good way. I would look into that if the graphics are not offputting...

[Bigmean]

Rife also makes one that looks nice. I would think there is no reason to leave the $100 threshold for this, and if you go classic you can be in one for $30 in good shape.

[mahonie]

Mallets are easier to hold steady but harder for distance control.

 

Blade putters are excellent for distance control but you need steadier hands to keep the face at the same angle.

 

Pick your poison.

 

Have any of you considered carrying two putters ? Your "Crenshaw" blade for longer putts and a mallet for the short ones that you tend to miss with your blade ?

 

But then I would create a gap somewhere else in my bag. It is an interesting suggestion, but with my Bosa mallet I am making more of those longer comeback misses from poor long putt distance control. My solution is to get better at distance control with a mallet.

 

Yes definitely considered putting two putters in the bag...something called ego got in the way :-/

[mahonie]

The original 8802 is said to have mystical qualities and can be picked up relatively cheaply. As BM said, the recent Wilson Staff 8802 has had some very good reviews and is reasonably priced. I've never seen one in the wild though. The Rife Bimini is a good option.

 

I think I may have posted this before, but Golf Alchemy Custom Factory putters on this side of the pond have really piqued my interest. I tried a prototype a couple of years ago and the only word I can use to describe the feel is 'pure.'

 

http://www.golfalchemy.co.uk/index.php?cPath=76

 

Edit: Forgot to mention Flanagan Bilt over your side of the pond...great reviews.

[Fellaheen51]

If one is going to look for a '64 8802, best to study up on what makes it THE original. Wilson has had several reissues over the years. Don't pay original prices when it is not. One may be aware of this information, maybe not. A guide for determining the proper tells:

 

http://wilson8802.blogspot.com

 

The Wilson Staff remake from a couple of years ago was a beauty. The milled face, clean lines. The LGS had a couple briefly that I rolled on their carpeted demo green. No better or worse than others of the style. But difficult to assess without trying it out on grass. But, and a significant detriment, it's SS. At the price ($175) they were asking for it, would have preferred Carbon. Softer feel IMHO. Also, have sworn off ever buying any golf club new (editorial digression).

 

Will throw one more 8802 style into the mix. Picked up a MacGregor JN Muirfield a couple of years back. Slight offset, sight line (like a bit of alignment assistance), carbon steel, long flute shaft, leather wrap grip. A beauty for $2.00!! Break it out every now and again for the pleasure of stroking a pure blade putter. Very nice for lagging, limited confidence inside of 6'. Have a tendency to leave the face open with this style, thus missing right all to often. But there is a certain purity of form that I find appealing.

 

Went the two putter route for awhile a few seasons back. Using a SE Tour Platinum 7802 "Dalehead" style and a trusty Rossie II mallet. But. A failed experiment reaching the conclusion that if one has two putters in the bag, I really had none. Better to focus and get comfortable using just one style. And for me, that's a mid-mallet. Acquired a Odyssey Black Series Tour Design #5 and put an end to the two putter experiment. The size and heft makes short putts less of an adventure than using 8802 or Anser styles. As Ninz mentioned, pick your poison. I practice lag putt distance control with the mallet. But I much prefer the mallet for short putts 6' and under. Don't wave it around like I do a blade. And yes, have loads of high density lead tape on the sole. More confident with the #5 on those "knee knockers" that frost me to no end when I miss them. (Note to self: Time to remove the SS Slim 1.0 grip. Wanted to try one, no like. Back to a pistol of some YTBD form.)

 

With all that said, I continue to cycle thru different putters that are in inventory. When its just a "fool'n around" round of golf. Try this, play that. Just for the fun of it. Got all these putters around, might as well give them a roll periodically. Otherwise, whats the point in keeping them. Just to look at them?

[Oldplayer]

Took the Mac-Cobras to the range last eve and 1st impression is they are simply the hardest to hit irons I ever tried, even by blade standards. I tip my hat to Mr. Norman for being #1 with these.

 

When nutted they are spectacular, soft feel, good distance and gobs of spin. I had range balls dancing. The Shark was known to back spin a lot of greens and these clubs had a hand in that.

 

When not, the distance and dispersion suffered more than most MB's I have played.

 

But I love them and when the 'A-swing' pays a visit to me, I will play them, till then Hogans stay in the bag.

 

Cheers.

I agree about the Mac Cobras. Shafts are always stiff as hell in these old blades as well. Sometimes I think the longer hosel on the old school blades used to make the shaft tip play stiffer too because of the extra insertion.

Modern blades like the mp4's with modern lighter shafts like nippons are way more friendly to play.

[NRJyzr]

.....

But, and a significant detriment, it's SS. At the price ($175) they were asking for it, would have preferred Carbon. Softer feel IMHO.

 

 

304 stainless is commonly used in such situations, though I don't know if it's what was used for the new 8802. As it happens, 304 stainless is as soft as, and even softer, than many/most grades of carbon steel used in golf clubs.

 

It's not like they're using the 15-5 stainless used for some of the larger stainless drivers of the 90s. ;)

[NRJyzr]

Took the Mac-Cobras to the range last eve and 1st impression is they are simply the hardest to hit irons I ever tried, even by blade standards. I tip my hat to Mr. Norman for being #1 with these.

 

When nutted they are spectacular, soft feel, good distance and gobs of spin. I had range balls dancing. The Shark was known to back spin a lot of greens and these clubs had a hand in that.

 

When not, the distance and dispersion suffered more than most MB's I have played.

 

But I love them and when the 'A-swing' pays a visit to me, I will play them, till then Hogans stay in the bag.

 

Cheers.

I agree about the Mac Cobras. Shafts are always stiff as hell in these old blades as well. Sometimes I think the longer hosel on the old school blades used to make the shaft tip play stiffer too because of the extra insertion.

Modern blades like the mp4's with modern lighter shafts like nippons are way more friendly to play.

 

 

The extra insertion depth doesn't really do anything for stiffness. You'd have to go to something like the insertion of the old 975D to make a difference, and the borethru of that club was part of that shaft flex joy. ;) What was it, 3½" or even 4"?

[Bigmean]

I also hate ss putters. I have one, a limited whitlam made for a japanese company, and it is indeed soft, but there is just something less meaty about as putters..

 

I hope it doesn't rain later so I can go and play with my new toys...rolled a few at 6 this morning before work, and it was not a premium ball, but I don't think my studio is as soft as it was prior to the mod, the byron feels the same...it was always clicky with that slot....I am saving judgement for reall balls and grass.

 

The finish in the studio is wild, looks Either deep silver or black depending on light and angle. One of the weights on my byron isn't perfectly flush with the other, it isn't a big deal but it is bothering me that it left like that. And something that remains to be seen in the cameron is that the weights are inset from the putter like .25mm or so, which is fine, but the ones on the toe of the putter, at address, with the loft, in my garage light last night the bottom of the bore is visible do to direct overhead light. I am curious to see how this plays out in outside and real greens. It may be nothing, it may annoy the crap out of me at address, but I think that last night was a perfect storm of how bad it could be (dark and overhead light, no ambient light) and the putter in general feels awesome swing wise and lines up nicey nice from my 15 min of playing this morning.

[Nard_S]

Took the Mac-Cobras to the range last eve and 1st impression is they are simply the hardest to hit irons I ever tried, even by blade standards. I tip my hat to Mr. Norman for being #1 with these.

 

When nutted they are spectacular, soft feel, good distance and gobs of spin. I had range balls dancing. The Shark was known to back spin a lot of greens and these clubs had a hand in that.

 

When not, the distance and dispersion suffered more than most MB's I have played.

 

But I love them and when the 'A-swing' pays a visit to me, I will play them, till then Hogans stay in the bag.

 

Cheers.

I agree about the Mac Cobras. Shafts are always stiff as hell in these old blades as well. Sometimes I think the longer hosel on the old school blades used to make the shaft tip play stiffer too because of the extra insertion.

Modern blades like the mp4's with modern lighter shafts like nippons are way more friendly to play.

 

 

The extra insertion depth doesn't really do anything for stiffness. You'd have to go to something like the insertion of the old 975D to make a difference, and the borethru of that club was part of that shaft flex joy. ;) What was it, 3½" or even 4"?

 

A couple observations:

 

The S300's on the Cobras are noticibly stout compared to S300's on my 2008 Wilson FG's. Granted, FG is tapered tip, Cobra is .370 parallel, so that may be why though it could be that flex has been re-tuned or these are Tour Issue S300, if there was such a beast back then.

 

Also hosel depth is a full 1/4" higher over FG's and an 1/8" over 99 Apex.

 

The design itself, the invertred weighting, "top heavy" if you will, you would think it would launch ball lower but it maybe that it ends up adding more dynamic loft via more spin. These things are crazy ball spinners. And lastly these particular clubs have a sharp leading edge, easy to eye up alignment but more punishing if you catch it fat.

 

Ease of use adds up to 1st: Apex, 2nd: FG 59, 3rd: Mac-Cobras.

 

They are all keepers with me.