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Bigmean

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Two things about this past weekend's golf...

 

First, I played my TM TP MCs on Friday, my Rams w/SPB shafts on Sunday. I much prefer playing with Ram blades to the MCs. I scored better with them, too, but it didn't have much to do with the irons; I had the "caffeinated rhino" short game working Friday. Ugh.

 

Second, I've been doing my own reworking of my swing, though it's in much simpler terms than what y'all have been discussing here. My swing has always been the length of what you see in John Daly, going well past parallel, only without the annoying talent. I've attempted to shorten it from time to time with little success. This year, I'm doing that again, trying to not go so far past parallel.

 

And it's been working, off and on. At first, I was worried about losing distance with the shorter backswing, something I'd been noticing so far this season. But yesterday, with the shorter swing, I was hitting the ball about my normal distance, maybe even a bit better, with better accuracy.

 

Except for the ugly hooks that showed up yesterday, off and on, from over-releasing the club. I was playing moderately well, but had a triple and two doubles in the last five holes to spoil an otherwise good score. Ugh.

 

When my shortgame goes to shite it is more like a hyperactive monkey riding a caffeinated rhino.

 

I have a lifelong love/hate relationship with my overswing. I am interested in how your 'fix' progresses. I never really saw of it as a true 'issue' so long as you can keep your spine angle and position consistent throughout the entire backswing. What happens with me when it becomes an issue is that I turn so much on the way back that I literally start losing sight of the ball and then as a compensation I inadvertently either tilt my spine or slide my head forward just at the beginning of my DS in order to regain that sight on the ball which moves my spine out of position. It is not an issue when I am fresh but when I get tired later in the round I lose focus on it and then I start that 'drift' and don't even know it. It is so hard to fix because it is only a conditional issue and it changes your swing timing, so that is why it has been a lifelong struggle. LOL I have always thought of my overswing as the last thing to 'fix' after I fix everything else, so I keep putting it off. I *try* to shorten it by triggering my DS as soon as my lead shoulder hits my chin at the top of my BS, but old habits die hard. Real hard.

 

For me, its three easy steps on the backswing. One piece takeaway, wrist hinge and turn to the top and done. Me being a little heavier and not as flexible now, the turn to the top doesnt take very long to complete lol. I just feel more in control now. I also struggle with keeping spine angle and not moving my head around and I think thats key for a consistent strike time and time again. Just so hard for me to turn whilst staying still and complete my weight transfer effectively. I will get it the same as you will. Just takes time and motivation but theres no doubt that i've gained consistency, distance and confidence.

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For those worried about losing distance by swinging shorter, there is hope! Sandy Lyle was one of the longest players on Tour at his peak but only just gets past halfway in his backswing:

 

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Wilson Staff FG Tour M3 21* Hybrid Aldila RIP Stiff
Cobra King CB/MB Flow 4-6, 7-PW C-Taper Stiff or Mizuno MP4 4-PW
Vokey SM8 52/58; MD Golf 56
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For those worried about losing distance by swinging shorter, there is hope! Sandy Lyle was one of the longest players on Tour at his peak but only just gets past halfway in his backswing:

 

 

Look at Rahm as well, hammers the ball

 

They are very similar swings with a nice, very high finish. Apparently, Seve reckoned that if the Big Five in Europe (Seve, Faldo, Lyle, Woosnam and Langer) were rated on talent, Lyle would be top with Seve second.

 

Rahm looks to me like he is going to be a superstar...prodigious talent.

Callaway Big Bertha Alpha Fubuki ZT Stiff
Callaway XR Speed 3W Project X HZRDUS T800 65 Stiff
Wilson Staff FG Tour M3 21* Hybrid Aldila RIP Stiff
Cobra King CB/MB Flow 4-6, 7-PW C-Taper Stiff or Mizuno MP4 4-PW
Vokey SM8 52/58; MD Golf 56
Radius Classic 8

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I got outbid twice this morning on refinished TN-87's... someday...

Stealth HD 9* (MotoreX F3 5R)

Bertha Mini 1.5 12* (Pro Launch Blue 65R)

Apex UW 19* (MMT 70S)

0311XP Gen3 4-PW (Accra 90i S)

Vokey Forged 52.10M (steel)

Vokey Forged Black 58.12K (steel) or WedgeWorks Low Bounce K 58* (steel)

HiToe 64* (steel)
WHP 7CS or Jailbird Versa

2019 TP5x or Tour Response

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When my shortgame goes to shite it is more like a hyperactive monkey riding a caffeinated rhino.

 

I have a lifelong love/hate relationship with my overswing. I am interested in how your 'fix' progresses. I never really saw of it as a true 'issue' so long as you can keep your spine angle and position consistent throughout the entire backswing. What happens with me when it becomes an issue is that I turn so much on the way back that I literally start losing sight of the ball and then as a compensation I inadvertently either tilt my spine or slide my head forward just at the beginning of my DS in order to regain that sight on the ball which moves my spine out of position. It is not an issue when I am fresh but when I get tired later in the round I lose focus on it and then I start that 'drift' and don't even know it. It is so hard to fix because it is only a conditional issue and it changes your swing timing, so that is why it has been a lifelong struggle. LOL I have always thought of my overswing as the last thing to 'fix' after I fix everything else, so I keep putting it off. I *try* to shorten it by triggering my DS as soon as my lead shoulder hits my chin at the top of my BS, but old habits die hard. Real hard.

 

For me, its three easy steps on the backswing. One piece takeaway, wrist hinge and turn to the top and done. Me being a little heavier and not as flexible now, the turn to the top doesnt take very long to complete lol. I just feel more in control now. I also struggle with keeping spine angle and not moving my head around and I think thats key for a consistent strike time and time again. Just so hard for me to turn whilst staying still and complete my weight transfer effectively. I will get it the same as you will. Just takes time and motivation but theres no doubt that i've gained consistency, distance and confidence.

 

I consider the point directly between the shoulder sockets as the 'center of the swing'. And it is imperative that this point be at the same exact point at impact, time and time again. You can have all the other swing techniques and keys mastered, but if you don't have this one, you will NEVER be consistent.

 

I am 155 lbs and 5'9" and also super flexible. And I used to skate and snowboard a lot. A rock solid stable spine is not something that I'm used to even though I can stay in balance. So I do really need to work on static stability in my swing constantly. From riding a board so long, I'm so used to keeping dynamic balance through a fluid spine, moving arms, and subtle footwork that it is difficult to keep it all stable in my golf swing.

 

Yes we will get there and figure it out together. I can't emphasize enough how helpful it is in posting and sharing each others' swing thoughts.

 

Also, note that you don't really transfer your 'weight' in the swing. When you take the BS, all that is happening is that the literal weight of the club and your arms moves towards your trail side and so naturally there is more weight there with no intentional 'shift' of it. Then when you DS, not only does that weight of clubs and arms 'shift' to your lead side, there is added 'weight' felt dynamically from the centripetal force generated by the rotational acceleration of the swing itself. Moreover, the centripetal force of the swing becomes much more than gravity AND it keeps dynamically increasing AND it changes the pulling direction during the entire DS. This is the true or dominant 'weight' of the swing and is what you really feel as 'shifting'. And for me I don't think of shifting the weight on my feet because it is happening anyway as I simply swing, so for me I simply try to find a way to sort of counterbalance that centripetal force pull (forwards and down at impact) by almost feeling more weight at my heels than toes in my DS.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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When my shortgame goes to shite it is more like a hyperactive monkey riding a caffeinated rhino.

 

I have a lifelong love/hate relationship with my overswing. I am interested in how your 'fix' progresses. I never really saw of it as a true 'issue' so long as you can keep your spine angle and position consistent throughout the entire backswing. What happens with me when it becomes an issue is that I turn so much on the way back that I literally start losing sight of the ball and then as a compensation I inadvertently either tilt my spine or slide my head forward just at the beginning of my DS in order to regain that sight on the ball which moves my spine out of position. It is not an issue when I am fresh but when I get tired later in the round I lose focus on it and then I start that 'drift' and don't even know it. It is so hard to fix because it is only a conditional issue and it changes your swing timing, so that is why it has been a lifelong struggle. LOL I have always thought of my overswing as the last thing to 'fix' after I fix everything else, so I keep putting it off. I *try* to shorten it by triggering my DS as soon as my lead shoulder hits my chin at the top of my BS, but old habits die hard. Real hard.

 

For me, its three easy steps on the backswing. One piece takeaway, wrist hinge and turn to the top and done. Me being a little heavier and not as flexible now, the turn to the top doesnt take very long to complete lol. I just feel more in control now. I also struggle with keeping spine angle and not moving my head around and I think thats key for a consistent strike time and time again. Just so hard for me to turn whilst staying still and complete my weight transfer effectively. I will get it the same as you will. Just takes time and motivation but theres no doubt that i've gained consistency, distance and confidence.

 

I consider the point directly between the shoulder sockets as the 'center of the swing'. And it is imperative that this point be at the same exact point at impact, time and time again. You can have all the other swing techniques and keys mastered, but if you don't have this one, you will NEVER be consistent.

 

I am 155 lbs and 5'9" and also super flexible. And I used to skate and snowboard a lot. A rock solid stable spine is not something that I'm used to even though I can stay in balance. So I do really need to work on static stability in my swing constantly. From riding a board so long, I'm so used to keeping dynamic balance through a fluid spine, moving arms, and subtle footwork that it is difficult to keep it all stable in my golf swing.

 

Yes we will get there and figure it out together. I can't emphasize enough how helpful it is in posting and sharing each others' swing thoughts.

 

Also, note that you don't really transfer your 'weight' in the swing. When you take the BS, all that is happening is that the literal weight of the club and your arms moves towards your trail side and so naturally there is more weight there with no intentional 'shift' of it. Then when you DS, not only does that weight of clubs and arms 'shift' to your lead side, there is added 'weight' felt dynamically from the centripetal force generated by the rotational acceleration of the swing itself. Moreover, the centripetal force of the swing becomes much more than gravity AND it keeps dynamically increasing AND it changes the pulling direction during the entire DS. This is the true or dominant 'weight' of the swing and is what you really feel as 'shifting'. And for me I don't think of shifting the weight on my feet because it is happening anyway as I simply swing, so for me I simply try to find a way to sort of counterbalance that centripetal force pull (forwards and down at impact) by almost feeling more weight at my heels than toes in my DS.

 

I use to be 5'9 155 when i lifted 6 days per week ha. Five years down the road, marrying a trained chef and nursing a hurt shoulder from bench press, I stroll about town at 5'9 225 lol. I've always had a horrible swing even through playing competitive in college. Since August 2015 I've learned so much and worked hard on my game. Was almost doing a reverse pivot, so for me it definitely "feels" like a shift. I just have to feel myself getting into that left heel on the DS and really get turned left. Trying to make it more rotational now instead of lateral like it was. Slowly progressing and seeing improvement. Haven't shot in the 60s since college but I've been soooooooo close lately. Just cant quite pull it together but 2017 IS THE YEAR!!

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I consider the point directly between the shoulder sockets as the 'center of the swing'. And it is imperative that this point be at the same exact point at impact, time and time again. You can have all the other swing techniques and keys mastered, but if you don't have this one, you will NEVER be consistent.

 

I am 155 lbs and 5'9" and also super flexible. And I used to skate and snowboard a lot. A rock solid stable spine is not something that I'm used to even though I can stay in balance. So I do really need to work on static stability in my swing constantly. From riding a board so long, I'm so used to keeping dynamic balance through a fluid spine, moving arms, and subtle footwork that it is difficult to keep it all stable in my golf swing.

 

Yes we will get there and figure it out together. I can't emphasize enough how helpful it is in posting and sharing each others' swing thoughts.

 

Also, note that you don't really transfer your 'weight' in the swing. When you take the BS, all that is happening is that the literal weight of the club and your arms moves towards your trail side and so naturally there is more weight there with no intentional 'shift' of it. Then when you DS, not only does that weight of clubs and arms 'shift' to your lead side, there is added 'weight' felt dynamically from the centripetal force generated by the rotational acceleration of the swing itself. Moreover, the centripetal force of the swing becomes much more than gravity AND it keeps dynamically increasing AND it changes the pulling direction during the entire DS. This is the true or dominant 'weight' of the swing and is what you really feel as 'shifting'. And for me I don't think of shifting the weight on my feet because it is happening anyway as I simply swing, so for me I simply try to find a way to sort of counterbalance that centripetal force pull (forwards and down at impact) by almost feeling more weight at my heels than toes in my DS.

 

I use to be 5'9 155 when i lifted 6 days per week ha. Five years down the road, marrying a trained chef and nursing a hurt shoulder from bench press, I stroll about town at 5'9 225 lol. I've always had a horrible swing even through playing competitive in college. Since August 2015 I've learned so much and worked hard on my game. Was almost doing a reverse pivot, so for me it definitely "feels" like a shift. I just have to feel myself getting into that left heel on the DS and really get turned left. Trying to make it more rotational now instead of lateral like it was. Slowly progressing and seeing improvement. Haven't shot in the 60s since college but I've been soooooooo close lately. Just cant quite pull it together but 2017 IS THE YEAR!!

 

LOL the technical advantage of going from 155 lbs to 225 lbs is that it lowers your body's center of mass. LOL in theory your turn is naturally more stable.

 

And marrying a trained chef? She's a keeper!!!

 

Stability of my spine / center of the swing is by far my #1 issue and #1 priority in terms of fixing. Whether or not I do it by shortening my BS remains to be seen. I think if I can at least improve upon it and not let my short game backslide, I will be consistently in the 70s.

 

Oh and BTW you won't lose any "forgiveness" by going back to your mp33s and blades in general. LOL congrats on the acquisition and welcome back to the light side!

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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Hahahahahahahaha, I had a set of mp33s in my storage building already that my buddy gave me a few years ago. Oh well that's funny. I'm an idiot. Headed to the range now

LOL FWIW, I knew I already had a set of baby blades, and I still bought a brand new second set.

 

Yeah, blades are that addictive. And before calling yourself an idiot, give it time. You may fall in love with the mp33s so much that you want the redundancy.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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Well, I just purchased 2-PW MP33 with S300s for 160 shipped. Think that's pretty solid. Little beat up with bag chatter and probably have to get the LLL checked and new grips but its a start. Thanks for the help guys

 

Nice find with the 2i included. They're a bit rarer.

 

Hahahahahahahaha, I had a set of mp33s in my storage building already that my buddy gave me a few years ago. Oh well that's funny. I'm an idiot. Headed to the range now

 

You will do well here :taunt:

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First evening down with the building find mp33s. No wonder you boys play them. They weren't even close to as hard to hit as I thought and I didn't lose much distance at all. Maybe half a club or closer to a full club and the loft is 2-3° weaker from what I looked up. Hitting a few more fades than I'd like but they've got 6.5 rifles which could've caused that a little. All in all, I foresee myself playing the 33s this weekend unless my lesson tomorrow goes horrid lol

 

I actually think I hit the long irons better than my apex. Odd

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So as some of you may know I've been in the desert since January and haven't touched a club since September because Alaska is home (except my 1 round with rentals out here). I'm thinking about getting a couple lessons when I get home to try and work on my swing and improve. I've never taken a lesson before unless you count junior golf at about 6-7 years old. How do you guys advise I find a good coach? And should I try and play a few rounds/hit some balls at the range to get comfortable with my swing first so that I have something nearing consistent (however poor it may be...) to work with going into it, or should I go in without really having played for ~10-11 months so that it might (in theory) be easier to work new things into my swing? Thoughts?

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Joe, I would definitely practice play a little first, otherwise you're just paying coach to help you get rid of rust. Get close to what your current game really is, then take lesson(s).

 

It's very hard to know how to choose. Get someone who you know has been successful with many others, decide if there's a fit and then just do what you're taught.

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Titleist TSi2 16.5 GD ADDI 5

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TM P790 5-W, DG 105 R
Vokey SM7 48, 52, 56
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I am playing the best golf of my life. Partly because I have had now 7 months home without having to go overseas for business for extended time. Partly because all the work on my swing has paid off. And partly because I am going to the gym a lot and especially working on range of motion. I bought this web based course for $25 and although it takes time to do it, it is clearly helping. Shot 82 today on a 6800 yard par 71 (Rancho Park in LA from the tips). At age 65 this just blows me away. A year ago I was playing the whites at 6100. Needless to say I am stoked! Index down to 8.0.

 

If I could give my younger self advice it would def include stretching. Better late than never, I guess

Titlest Tsi2, 10*, GD ADDI 5
Titleist TSi2 16.5 GD ADDI 5

Callaway X-hot pro 3, 4 h
TM P790 5-W, DG 105 R
Vokey SM7 48, 52, 56
Cameron Futura 5W


 
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I am playing the best golf of my life. Partly because I have had now 7 months home without having to go overseas for business for extended time. Partly because all the work on my swing has paid off. And partly because I am going to the gym a lot and especially working on range of motion. I bought this web based course for $25 and although it takes time to do it, it is clearly helping. Shot 82 today on a 6800 yard par 71 (Rancho Park in LA from the tips). At age 65 this just blows me away. A year ago I was playing the whites at 6100. Needless to say I am stoked! Index down to 8.0.

 

If I could give my younger self advice it would def include stretching. Better late than never, I guess

 

I would definitely like to start a program that is tailored to improving range of motion for golf. I am pretty... whatever the word is for "not flexible at ALL."

 

Joe,

I would actually dive straight into the lessons. It might help you avoid picking up any bad habits that you have to iron out later.

 

I can see reasoning behind both jumping in right away and waiting. Hmm...

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First evening down with the building find mp33s. No wonder you boys play them. They weren't even close to as hard to hit as I thought and I didn't lose much distance at all. Maybe half a club or closer to a full club and the loft is 2-3° weaker from what I looked up. Hitting a few more fades than I'd like but they've got 6.5 rifles which could've caused that a little. All in all, I foresee myself playing the 33s this weekend unless my lesson tomorrow goes horrid lol

 

I actually think I hit the long irons better than my apex. Odd

 

So to explain your long iron conundrum, try this side by side comparison of the long iron mp33 and the most equivalent lofted Apex. Take both clubs and first hold them perfectly vertical and side by side with each other with the faces facing the same way and at the same lie angle. Then find both of their leading edges and set them to the same horizontal height. With both clubs set at this equal leading edge height, next examine their soles. Determine which sole bottom hangs lower than the other. The club with the sole that hangs lower when the leading edges are at the same height will be the club more difficult to hit because that sole will rub into the ground more than the other one. This is just one comparison test and note that the other comparison tests may have different results, so just realize this is only one of many possible reasons that you hit the mp33 long irons better.

 

Next compare their sole width and overall sole surface area from front to back and heel to toe. Once again, the club with the wider sole and overall greater surface area sole is going to be the club that is harder to hit because again that sole can rub the ground easier than the smaller soled club.

 

Next compare the two leading edges of the clubs. The club with the more rounded leading edge will be the more difficult to hit, but note that this is a lesser significance issue because the leading edge size and roundedness is much smaller in scale than the sole width.

 

Also compare how thick each clubface is at the point of impact with the ball. The clubface that is thickest behind the point of impact will produce a more consistent spin and will be the more workable club. Also if there is thickness from heel to toe, then that thickness is like the fat part of a baseball bat and so you can hit a decent shot with the club that has solid mass behind the ball from heel to toe as long as you hit along that thick part.

 

So I have no idea if any of this aligns with how your mp33s and Apexes actually compare, but it is possible that any one of them can explain why the mp33 long irons are easier to hit and work the ball. Also I am neglecting any differences in shaft between the two clubs but out of all of the above issues, the sole size and roundedness of it may be the biggest issue. And the reason is because the #1 priority for club "forgiveness" is clean ball contact. If you don't contact the ball clean to start, what difference does it make whether or not you hit at the toe or heel of the club? So to me first and foremost is to have clubs that enable clean ball contact and an overall solid face for it.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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First evening down with the building find mp33s. No wonder you boys play them. They weren't even close to as hard to hit as I thought and I didn't lose much distance at all. Maybe half a club or closer to a full club and the loft is 2-3° weaker from what I looked up. Hitting a few more fades than I'd like but they've got 6.5 rifles which could've caused that a little. All in all, I foresee myself playing the 33s this weekend unless my lesson tomorrow goes horrid lol

 

I actually think I hit the long irons better than my apex. Odd

 

So to explain your long iron conundrum, try this side by side comparison of the long iron mp33 and the most equivalent lofted Apex. Take both clubs and first hold them perfectly vertical and side by side with each other with the faces facing the same way and at the same lie angle. Then find both of their leading edges and set them to the same horizontal height. With both clubs set at this equal leading edge height, next examine their soles. Determine which sole bottom hangs lower than the other. The club with the sole that hangs lower when the leading edges are at the same height will be the club more difficult to hit because that sole will rub into the ground more than the other one. This is just one comparison test and note that the other comparison tests may have different results, so just realize this is only one of many possible reasons that you hit the mp33 long irons better.

 

Next compare their sole width and overall sole surface area from front to back and heel to toe. Once again, the club with the wider sole and overall greater surface area sole is going to be the club that is harder to hit because again that sole can rub the ground easier than the smaller soled club.

 

Next compare the two leading edges of the clubs. The club with the more rounded leading edge will be the more difficult to hit, but note that this is a lesser significance issue because the leading edge size and roundedness is much smaller in scale than the sole width.

 

Also compare how thick each clubface is at the point of impact with the ball. The clubface that is thickest behind the point of impact will produce a more consistent spin and will be the more workable club. Also if there is thickness from heel to toe, then that thickness is like the fat part of a baseball bat and so you can hit a decent shot with the club that has solid mass behind the ball from heel to toe as long as you hit along that thick part.

 

So I have no idea if any of this aligns with how your mp33s and Apexes actually compare, but it is possible that any one of them can explain why the mp33 long irons are easier to hit and work the ball. Also I am neglecting any differences in shaft between the two clubs but out of all of the above issues, the sole size and roundedness of it may be the biggest issue. And the reason is because the #1 priority for club "forgiveness" is clean ball contact. If you don't contact the ball clean to start, what difference does it make whether or not you hit at the toe or heel of the club? So to me first and foremost is to have clubs that enable clean ball contact and an overall solid face for it.

 

Completely understand what you're saying. For me, the mp33 was easier to launch and make clean contact as they seem to dig a little better. I can only imagine it will even improve with the S300 shafts I have coming instead of the 6.5 rifles. Without beating a dead horse, I'm really happy that I tried them, but my wife may not be lol. I'm sure this will set me off on a blade buying tantrum just like I do with putters. So to summarize, that makes a set of irons and a gun I've purchased today. If y'all don't hear from me later, my wife has not taken the news well!!

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And another is born....

 

The Force is strong in this one.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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Completely understand what you're saying. For me, the mp33 was easier to launch and make clean contact as they seem to dig a little better. I can only imagine it will even improve with the S300 shafts I have coming instead of the 6.5 rifles. Without beating a dead horse, I'm really happy that I tried them, but my wife may not be lol. I'm sure this will set me off on a blade buying tantrum just like I do with putters. So to summarize, that makes a set of irons and a gun I've purchased today. If y'all don't hear from me later, my wife has not taken the news well!!

 

Let me get this right. You purchased a set of irons--without telling your wife--and a gun? Isn't that tempting fate a little?

 

"Hey, honey, look at these lovely irons I just bought."

"What? How much were they? I can't believe you didn't consult me on this."

"Not much, oh and I see you've found the gun I got today as we..."

Blam! Blam! Blam!

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Completely understand what you're saying. For me, the mp33 was easier to launch and make clean contact as they seem to dig a little better. I can only imagine it will even improve with the S300 shafts I have coming instead of the 6.5 rifles. Without beating a dead horse, I'm really happy that I tried them, but my wife may not be lol. I'm sure this will set me off on a blade buying tantrum just like I do with putters. So to summarize, that makes a set of irons and a gun I've purchased today. If y'all don't hear from me later, my wife has not taken the news well!!

 

Let me get this right. You purchased a set of irons--without telling your wife--and a gun? Isn't that tempting fate a little?

 

"Hey, honey, look at these lovely irons I just bought."

"What? How much were they? I can't believe you didn't consult me on this."

"Not much, oh and I see you've found the gun I got today as we..."

Blam! Blam! Blam!

 

She's pretty laid back. I'm a very lucky man. As long as she's under the assumption she will get to shoot it, I'm good. I've been looking for a 9mm sub gun that takes glock mags that I actually like FOREVER and finally found it. It was a must and she gets it lol. As for the irons, that will cost me more in the long run as I'm sure I'll get a set refinished and buy a few more. Already looking at selling a few putters ughh

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So I went to the range and short game practiced today after work with my satin BBs. I worked on keeping my eyes on the ball throughout my entire swing as a way of limiting my BS. So far results were positive. I was making better contact and could actually see the ball get whisked away by the blur of the clubhead at impact. I like this and will keep working on it.

 

Also I have a new resolution to accept my fade for nearly all shots, in particular with driver. I've always been the type of player that tried to hit the proper worked shot based on the pin location or hole shape, but no more for a while. I am going to give up on drawing the ball unless absolutely necessary. I'm just not as consistent with it, and so now I am going to eliminate the left side of the course and just play fades and straight shots.

 

One of my rare club members that also plays blades was on the range with me hitting his Cleveland Tour Action 6i. LOL he has hit my BBs before and so I offered to switch 6is for a few balls. He hit two 170 yd shots and just nutted both perfect and just giggled and laughed after each one. And LOL he stopped at those two and said, "No more of that crack. I don't want to get used to that."

 

I hit the Cleveland and it performed fine, but I wasn't impressed with the feel. He had an S300 in it so maybe that was it. Plus it was heavy as compared to my BB.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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turtsoup

This may be a bit of an odd question, but which hobby is more expensive, golf or guns (OK, I admit I don't know how much of a gun enthusiast you are).

I mean, golf can get pretty expensive just with range time and playing, but throw ho'ing in there and the cost can skyrocket. But with guns, you've got ammo to buy, range time to pay for (no idea of cost here), and guns are pricier than clubs, right?

 

For comparison, I took up photography when I quit golf for a few years, and I would say that it is easier to spend more on photography than golf if you are pursuing the latest and greatest. I got into old lenses and film cameras for a bit, which is a bit like me now chasing older sets of blades; it's a heck of a lot cheaper and can be just as satisfying to use.

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turtsoup

This may be a bit of an odd question, but which hobby is more expensive, golf or guns (OK, I admit I don't know how much of a gun enthusiast you are).

I mean, golf can get pretty expensive just with range time and playing, but throw ho'ing in there and the cost can skyrocket. But with guns, you've got ammo to buy, range time to pay for (no idea of cost here), and guns are pricier than clubs, right?

 

For comparison, I took up photography when I quit golf for a few years, and I would say that it is easier to spend more on photography than golf if you are pursuing the latest and greatest. I got into old lenses and film cameras for a bit, which is a bit like me now chasing older sets of blades; it's a heck of a lot cheaper and can be just as satisfying to use.

 

Guns are definitely more expensive but I've been buying here and there for a long time. I bounce from hobby to hobby, other than golf. Have always played golf and always will. Bass fishing, fly fishing, guns are all in the rotation lol. Just not enough time in the day

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For those worried about losing distance by swinging shorter, there is hope! Sandy Lyle was one of the longest players on Tour at his peak but only just gets past halfway in his backswing:

 

 

Look at Rahm as well, hammers the ball

 

They are very similar swings with a nice, very high finish. Apparently, Seve reckoned that if the Big Five in Europe (Seve, Faldo, Lyle, Woosnam and Langer) were rated on talent, Lyle would be top with Seve second.

 

Rahm looks to me like he is going to be a superstar...prodigious talent.

 

Growing up in Scotland in the 1980's Lyle was an absolute hero of mine, and can take a lot of credit for getting me into golf properly after watching him win the Masters in 1988. Still don't think I've seen a better bunker shot under pressure than the one he hit on the 18th.

 

Got to OWG #2 and won 2 majors basically on talent alone, a fantastically natural swing, and the ability to smack a 1 iron further than anyone I've ever seen (even Koepka with his 2 iron). He started thinking about what he was doing, and it all went horribly wrong. Sad, but what a swing.

The Dee Three - Titleist TS4 9.5 deg, EvenFlow White 6.5 65g, A1 Setting

Henrik - Titleist 917 F3 15 deg, Rogue Max 75x, B2 Setting

The Walking Stick - Titleist 818 H2 19 deg, Rogue Max 85x, B2 Setting

The Interloper - TaylorMade P770 3 iron, S400 Tour Issue, +0.5inch +1 deg loft

The Blades - Nike VR Pro 4 - AW, S400 Tour Issue, +0.5 inch

The Sand Iron - TaylorMade MG2 TW-12 Grind, 56 degree, S400 Tour Issue

The Flopper - TaylorMade MG2 TW-11 Grind, 60 Degree, S400 Tour Issue

The Putter - Nike Method 003 from The Oven

 

"Golf is only called golf as all the other four letter words have been taken"     - Leslie Nielsen

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turtsoup

This may be a bit of an odd question, but which hobby is more expensive, golf or guns (OK, I admit I don't know how much of a gun enthusiast you are).

I mean, golf can get pretty expensive just with range time and playing, but throw ho'ing in there and the cost can skyrocket. But with guns, you've got ammo to buy, range time to pay for (no idea of cost here), and guns are pricier than clubs, right?

 

For comparison, I took up photography when I quit golf for a few years, and I would say that it is easier to spend more on photography than golf if you are pursuing the latest and greatest. I got into old lenses and film cameras for a bit, which is a bit like me now chasing older sets of blades; it's a heck of a lot cheaper and can be just as satisfying to use.

 

Guns are definitely more expensive but I've been buying here and there for a long time. I bounce from hobby to hobby, other than golf. Have always played golf and always will. Bass fishing, fly fishing, guns are all in the rotation lol. Just not enough time in the day

 

Ah, now fishing, especially fly-fishing, can be another expensive hobby. I don't know about the USA, but in the UK some of the top fly-fishing rivers like the Test cost a fortune for a one-day fishing licence. I fly-fish occasionally when I am back in the UK on an unstocked river for brown trout. Proper, wild brown trout. Never caught one, but it's cheap and a good way to enjoy the scenery.

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For those worried about losing distance by swinging shorter, there is hope! Sandy Lyle was one of the longest players on Tour at his peak but only just gets past halfway in his backswing:

 

 

Look at Rahm as well, hammers the ball

 

They are very similar swings with a nice, very high finish. Apparently, Seve reckoned that if the Big Five in Europe (Seve, Faldo, Lyle, Woosnam and Langer) were rated on talent, Lyle would be top with Seve second.

 

Rahm looks to me like he is going to be a superstar...prodigious talent.

 

Growing up in Scotland in the 1980's Lyle was an absolute hero of mine, and can take a lot of credit for getting me into golf properly after watching him win the Masters in 1988. Still don't think I've seen a better bunker shot under pressure than the one he hit on the 18th.

 

Got to OWG #2 and won 2 majors basically on talent alone, a fantastically natural swing, and the ability to smack a 1 iron further than anyone I've ever seen (even Koepka with his 2 iron). He started thinking about what he was doing, and it all went horribly wrong. Sad, but what a swing.

 

Wasn't it his putting that went wrong first? I seem to recall that he got a bad case of the yips in the early Nineties, or even late eighties.

But, yeah, he could hammer the ball.

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turtsoup

This may be a bit of an odd question, but which hobby is more expensive, golf or guns (OK, I admit I don't know how much of a gun enthusiast you are).

I mean, golf can get pretty expensive just with range time and playing, but throw ho'ing in there and the cost can skyrocket. But with guns, you've got ammo to buy, range time to pay for (no idea of cost here), and guns are pricier than clubs, right?

 

For comparison, I took up photography when I quit golf for a few years, and I would say that it is easier to spend more on photography than golf if you are pursuing the latest and greatest. I got into old lenses and film cameras for a bit, which is a bit like me now chasing older sets of blades; it's a heck of a lot cheaper and can be just as satisfying to use.

 

Guns are definitely more expensive but I've been buying here and there for a long time. I bounce from hobby to hobby, other than golf. Have always played golf and always will. Bass fishing, fly fishing, guns are all in the rotation lol. Just not enough time in the day

 

Ah, now fishing, especially fly-fishing, can be another expensive hobby. I don't know about the USA, but in the UK some of the top fly-fishing rivers like the Test cost a fortune for a one-day fishing licence. I fly-fish occasionally when I am back in the UK on an unstocked river for brown trout. Proper, wild brown trout. Never caught one, but it's cheap and a good way to enjoy the scenery.

 

Fishing is where it`s at. Lucky to grow up next to the Fraser river and partake whenever I get the chance. My father is from the prairies and we used to go to a place called Jan Lake half way up Saskatchewan, in basically the middle of nowhere. Some of the best fishing in the world.

 

Catchy, I had to grab another set of the R58s. These have the 6.5s, which fit my swing much better. My other set is going on the block, but I pulled one out of the box and I have to say that they are such a pretty set. And, the time I took them out with Hogan Redlines they were just as good shot for shot, even with an ill-matched shaft. You still holding on to yours?

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