Blade users thread (NO DEBATING CLUBHEADS! NO Buy Sell Trade!)

[DeNinny]

Not to bore the class, but I am curious as to the science as to how the meat being a straight line or rounded effects the feel/feedback? Is it a vibration thing?

 

See how I dismiss science then beg for more hahaha. You only live once and I like to learn!

 

Ok but a bit of a disclaimer to all of this is that I'm getting into minutia level details here. In general a blade is a big thick block of steel and how much the upper edge is curved doesn't change that fundamental shape all that much. But in theory, every shape change is going to yield a different feeling clubhead (all other things equal). And the way I see it, if the manufacturers and marketers can tout the half-truth and also minutia level physics about how CG location, clubhead MOI, and offset are all these supposedly significant "forgiving" features, then why not discuss the possible physics differences with the various blade shapes? It's either just as minutia level as all the other stuff or it is actually significant.

 

Yes in short it is a vibration thing. A music tuning fork tine is not a curved shape. It is straight for the very same reason: the least impeded harmonic resonance or vibration. And what the straight lines and sharp angles do is sort of standardize the vibration to a distinct frequency. All the vibrating molecules end up vibrating the most right at a straight and cornered edge, basically where the shape is the thinnest. The molecules are all lined up in a line and so they can vibrate the most uniformly with respect to each other in this orientation. As soon as the line starts to curve and/or the overall thickness of it becomes more random and non-uniform, then the vibration pattern is going to get randomized a little more and made more variable and non-distinct because the direction of the vibration now has to curve a little. Also the parts where more molecules are grouped together will vibrate more slowly than the parts where there are less molecules grouped together. By analogy and comparison, no matter where or how you strike a tuning fork, it still produces the same exact note. But if you curve that tuning fork or make the tines varying and random thickness, then it will most definitely NOT produce a discreet note. Same thing goes with a straight top muscle vs a curve top muscle: the straight muscle is more like that straight tuning fork tine. The more uniformity along the length of it is the reason it provides sharper (and in some ways harsher) feeling feedback.

 

Now all that said, remember I said minutia detail here. What is more important in defining how solid and how well it provides feedback and feel is the RELATIVE thickness of the muscle to its total length and height. A square cube shape is VERY solid and hard to break in half. This is because the ratio of its thickness to length is high. As soon as the shape starts to elongate more and more, meaning it gets thinner as it gets longer, then it is going to feel, relatively speaking, less solid and provide a little more harsher feeling feedback. Again it is because it can bend and vibrate along its length more. Remember earlier in this thread, you measured the relative thickness to length of your BBs and Mizunos and I think Vegas, and clearly your BBs were the thickest relative to their overall length. For this very reason is why you get that very solid feel on ALL types of hits and yet relatively speaking the mishits don't feel that harsh. Again that thick BB muscle is very hard to vibrate longitudinally. Same thing is going on with the FG59 and the 681. That ratio is what makes all the short blades feel so solid. I think this is overall more important than the curvature of the top of the muscle.

 

To dismiss science is to dismiss all of observable reality and mathematical logic.

[DeNinny]

A while ago I bought some MP-67s off of ebay for fun. Is my slow swing speed the reason I find it difficult to hit the 5 iron and further than I hit the 6 iron?

 

If the lofts are correctly set and also if you hit them both pure, then a slower swing speed will NOT have a loss of distance at the 5 iron. I played MP67s for 9 years from PW-3i and I have a driver SS at about 90mph and 6i I think is 78-80mph, and I have perfect 10-12 yard gaps between all clubs...based on good strikes. But now to your point, when I start taking mishits into account, then for sure as I go longer and longer in the iron, the penalty of a mishit loss in distance goes up. When I first got my mp67s as a 16 index I really struggled with the 4i and 3i for a while and it almost didn't matter which club I used, they went the same distance. The issue was simply my error in hitting them accurately kept going up the longer the iron. And so the penalty of the mishit got worse too. Today I am a better ball striker but not any faster SS and my gaps between all my MP67s are fine (provided I put a good strike on all of them).

[Nard_S]

The design certainly plays a role but I think part of the deep feel to the 681's is the use of a oil impregnated hickory dowel in the hosel. This is unique to the 681's from other Titleist forgings as far as I know.

 

So if you were to buy a set, verifying if shafts were factory installed and not swapped out is important.

 

Also these clubs are flat out heavy,I think it is the shaft I have but I suspect the heads are on the stout side too. They are really nice sticks. Worthy to own if you do not over pay.

[DeNinny]

Nard I did not know about that dowel! And for sure it is going to add a NEW element to the feel. Carbon molecules in wood are a completely different structure and density than the steel. This definitely will create a different feel (I will say that it will damp it a little and take off a harsh "edge" of it) than a hollow shaft without the dowel down at the hosel. Although the wood is less dense and lighter than the metal, down at the hosel the vibrations will concentrate there since they have to pass through that smaller volume of overall mass at the hosel and smallest diameter of the shaft. With the dowel there, the added volume of wood is a whole other media and mass (that is bigger in volume than the metal at that point) that the vibrations have to pass through. End result is a distinctive feel that is different than without the dowel.

 

By analogy, mounting a motor on rubber or plastic pads between it and its metal mounting base is done to reduce the overall vibrational magnitude when the motor runs.

[Srimps]

Just picked up a new set of Srixon Z945's from TGW for $416 shipped (used ebates). Couldn't pass that price up to give these a try. I don't usually get along with S300's so I'll be on the hunt again for a shaft that works for me. I really enjoy the Nippon 1050GHs in my Flatbacks, so I can always swap one of those in to try. Too bad golf season up here is dwindling down...

[NRJyzr]

Nard I did not know about that dowel! And for sure it is going to add a NEW element to the feel. Carbon molecules in wood are a completely different structure and density than the steel. This definitely will create a different feel (I will say that it will damp it a little and take off a harsh "edge" of it) than a hollow shaft without the dowel down at the hosel. Although the wood is less dense and lighter than the metal, down at the hosel the vibrations will concentrate there since they have to pass through that smaller volume of overall mass at the hosel and smallest diameter of the shaft. With the dowel there, the added volume of wood is a whole other media and mass (that is bigger in volume than the metal at that point) that the vibrations have to pass through. End result is a distinctive feel that is different than without the dowel.

 

By analogy, mounting a motor on rubber or plastic pads between it and its metal mounting base is done to reduce the overall vibrational magnitude when the motor runs.

 

 

Doweling shafts is an old clubmaking trick from many years ago that's had something of a resurgence in the last 10-15 years. Maybe it never actually went away, but when I first heard of it, it was being talked about as not often being done.

 

The idea was much as you describe, DeNinny, trying to smooth out the feel a bit.

[Nard_S]

Nard I did not know about that dowel! And for sure it is going to add a NEW element to the feel. Carbon molecules in wood are a completely different structure and density than the steel. This definitely will create a different feel (I will say that it will damp it a little and take off a harsh "edge" of it) than a hollow shaft without the dowel down at the hosel. Although the wood is less dense and lighter than the metal, down at the hosel the vibrations will concentrate there since they have to pass through that smaller volume of overall mass at the hosel and smallest diameter of the shaft. With the dowel there, the added volume of wood is a whole other media and mass (that is bigger in volume than the metal at that point) that the vibrations have to pass through. End result is a distinctive feel that is different than without the dowel.

 

By analogy, mounting a motor on rubber or plastic pads between it and its metal mounting base is done to reduce the overall vibrational magnitude when the motor runs.

 

 

Doweling shafts is an old clubmaking trick from many years ago that's had something of a resurgence in the last 10-15 years. Maybe it never actually went away, but when I first heard of it, it was being talked about as not often being done.

 

The idea was much as you describe, DeNinny, trying to smooth out the feel a bit.

 

Agree.It'sold school "Sensicore". I do not know of any other club that came from factory with this though.Or of any builder who uses them, so it seems to be a rare thing nowadays. It is something I will try when I do a build myself.

[DeNinny]

Nard I did not know about that dowel! And for sure it is going to add a NEW element to the feel. Carbon molecules in wood are a completely different structure and density than the steel. This definitely will create a different feel (I will say that it will damp it a little and take off a harsh "edge" of it) than a hollow shaft without the dowel down at the hosel. Although the wood is less dense and lighter than the metal, down at the hosel the vibrations will concentrate there since they have to pass through that smaller volume of overall mass at the hosel and smallest diameter of the shaft. With the dowel there, the added volume of wood is a whole other media and mass (that is bigger in volume than the metal at that point) that the vibrations have to pass through. End result is a distinctive feel that is different than without the dowel.

 

By analogy, mounting a motor on rubber or plastic pads between it and its metal mounting base is done to reduce the overall vibrational magnitude when the motor runs.

 

 

Doweling shafts is an old clubmaking trick from many years ago that's had something of a resurgence in the last 10-15 years. Maybe it never actually went away, but when I first heard of it, it was being talked about as not often being done.

 

The idea was much as you describe, DeNinny, trying to smooth out the feel a bit.

 

Agree.It'sold school "Sensicore". I do not know of any other club that came from factory with this though.Or of any builder who uses them, so it seems to be a rare thing nowadays. It is something I will try when I do a build myself.

 

Depending on how high the dowel goes up into the shaft, it *may* also change the bend profile a little. It *could* stiffen the shaft at its location.

[Bigmean]

I think the wood is more for the transfer of vibration to the shaft, and your motor on rubber blocks analogy is perfect, is was your tuning fork analogy. I am a big believer in analogies for teaching and understand and you sir get an A for always doing a good job making science relatable!

 

The km350 putter I have is a great example in small swing speeds as to shorter heel to toe and same mass = a better feel. It is arguably the most solid feeling putter I own. Maybe not even an argument. Doesn't matter as there is more to putting than just that, but it proves the theory in the smallest of impacts.

 

As for SS and long irons, I think it is true regardless. I have a 90-92 six iron SS, however if I slightly miss my 5 it is going the same distance as a 6. As where if I slightly miss a 7, it is going farther than an 8. Regardless of speed, there is an exponential penalty in distance the less loft you have, so I don't think it is a unique problem to slower SS.

[Nard_S]

Nard I did not know about that dowel! And for sure it is going to add a NEW element to the feel. Carbon molecules in wood are a completely different structure and density than the steel. This definitely will create a different feel (I will say that it will damp it a little and take off a harsh "edge" of it) than a hollow shaft without the dowel down at the hosel. Although the wood is less dense and lighter than the metal, down at the hosel the vibrations will concentrate there since they have to pass through that smaller volume of overall mass at the hosel and smallest diameter of the shaft. With the dowel there, the added volume of wood is a whole other media and mass (that is bigger in volume than the metal at that point) that the vibrations have to pass through. End result is a distinctive feel that is different than without the dowel.

 

By analogy, mounting a motor on rubber or plastic pads between it and its metal mounting base is done to reduce the overall vibrational magnitude when the motor runs.

 

 

Doweling shafts is an old clubmaking trick from many years ago that's had something of a resurgence in the last 10-15 years. Maybe it never actually went away, but when I first heard of it, it was being talked about as not often being done.

 

The idea was much as you describe, DeNinny, trying to smooth out the feel a bit.

 

Agree.It'sold school "Sensicore". I do not know of any other club that came from factory with this though.Or of any builder who uses them, so it seems to be a rare thing nowadays. It is something I will try when I do a build myself.

 

Depending on how high the dowel goes up into the shaft, it *may* also change the bend profile a little. It *could* stiffen the shaft at its location.

 

Yeah it could,I had heard that standard dowels are about 1 1/4" +/- 1/8", that they need a breathe hole and to be recessed into shaft a bit (1/4") to allow for swing weight powder if it was needed.

 

I have to amend my less than scientific judgement on head size of 681's. They are as compact in length as FG's and Hogans (to my surprise) but they are about an 1/8" taller.So looking down they appear larger when it is really just higher and more face.to see.

[DeNinny]

The myth of slow SS being not good for long iron blades is a marketing "seed" to get the believing golfer to play more "forgiving" clubs.

 

The physics is as simple as this: as the loft gets stronger, the ball will go lower, spin less, and go farther (all other things equal). This scales by SS by the same proportion. There's absolutely no physics that has some threshold or cutoff point where a certain SS will start to deviate from these facts, all of which are supported by Sir Issac Newton's Laws of Motion.

[DeNinny]

Nard I did not know about that dowel! And for sure it is going to add a NEW element to the feel. Carbon molecules in wood are a completely different structure and density than the steel. This definitely will create a different feel (I will say that it will damp it a little and take off a harsh "edge" of it) than a hollow shaft without the dowel down at the hosel. Although the wood is less dense and lighter than the metal, down at the hosel the vibrations will concentrate there since they have to pass through that smaller volume of overall mass at the hosel and smallest diameter of the shaft. With the dowel there, the added volume of wood is a whole other media and mass (that is bigger in volume than the metal at that point) that the vibrations have to pass through. End result is a distinctive feel that is different than without the dowel.

 

By analogy, mounting a motor on rubber or plastic pads between it and its metal mounting base is done to reduce the overall vibrational magnitude when the motor runs.

 

 

Doweling shafts is an old clubmaking trick from many years ago that's had something of a resurgence in the last 10-15 years. Maybe it never actually went away, but when I first heard of it, it was being talked about as not often being done.

 

The idea was much as you describe, DeNinny, trying to smooth out the feel a bit.

 

Agree.It'sold school "Sensicore". I do not know of any other club that came from factory with this though.Or of any builder who uses them, so it seems to be a rare thing nowadays. It is something I will try when I do a build myself.

 

Depending on how high the dowel goes up into the shaft, it *may* also change the bend profile a little. It *could* stiffen the shaft at its location.

 

Yeah it could,I had heard that standard dowels are about 1 1/4" +/- 1/8", that they need a breathe hole and to be recessed into shaft a bit (1/4") to allow for swing weight powder if it was needed.

 

I have to amend my less than scientific judgement on head size of 681's. They are as compact in length as FG's and Hogans (to my surprise) but they are about an 1/8" taller.So looking down they appear larger when it is really just higher and more face.to see.

 

If you have precise enough calipers like Bigmean-san has, you can take all your less than scientific judgement out of it and measure the thickness* of the muscles of all your blades. (*And not just at one point either.) And I'll bet that, dowel notwithstanding, some of those differences contribute to how each head feels and performs. The closer the mass and geometries are in proximity to impact, the more they matter to ALL the physics: feel, feedback, and performance. Once the force of impact starts, all the nearby clubface structures start to deform from it. And so how all those structures are shaped and made up of is very important.

 

Edit: And then at the end and just past impact, the force of it lessens and then goes to zero as the ball leaves the face. Simultaneous to this the head starts to vibrate like a tuning fork or like a flopping fish out of water (but stuck to a rod at the mouth). That vibration is what we are feeling besides the moment of impact itself. So again, local head structure matters a lot, even within the ranks of blades.

[Nard_S]

If you have precise enough calipers like Bigmean-san has, you can take all your less than scientific judgement out of it and measure the thickness* of the muscles of all your blades. -DN

 

Ha! I guess I have no excuse because I can measure to microns and routinely machine to tenths. I just trusted my failing eyeballs from setup, my bad.

I agree on all the geometry aspects of a design but the forging process has something to do with it to.The choice of carbon steel, the "baking of the cake" so to speak.It's why Endo's have a certain feel,or even Hoffman forgings have theirs. Miua., a club you would know more about, are revered for their feel and much of that may be the way it is forged. A lot of factors and parameters go into making a nice club.

[Sir Slicealot]

I played a round with cavity backs today. The result was annoying. The clubs were longer than I wanted in many instances. What was even more annoying was that this exercise went and lengthened all my blades too.

 

I got my first Birdie ever today and it was with a blade! It was two and a half perfect shots on a par 4. Dogleg left after the drive to an uphill green guarded by bunkers. The driver faded around the line of trees onto a hillside which was perfect 7 iron range. 716MB 7 iron gets all of the ball and leaves a small divot...yes I'm proud of that part...lands short of the green and rolls to the last 18" of fringe. This leaves me a seven foot putt in total, as the pin is forward, for my 8802 and I nailed it! I just exclaimed, "What!?!" and basked in the glory. That seven iron was on fire today and unfortunately screwed me big time on a par three when it got all of the ball(off the turf) and went through the perfect arc of flight and landed Heaven knows where long of the green. This ended my run of good post round golf. After that my mind was shot and so was my body.

[DeNinny]

If you have precise enough calipers like Bigmean-san has, you can take all your less than scientific judgement out of it and measure the thickness* of the muscles of all your blades. -DN

 

Ha! I guess I have no excuse because I can measure to microns and routinely machine to tenths. I just trusted my failing eyeballs from setup, my bad.

I agree on all the geometry aspects of a design but the forging process has something to do with it to.The choice of carbon steel, the "baking of the cake" so to speak.It's why Endo's have a certain feel,or even Hoffman forgings have theirs. Miua., a club you would know more about, are revered for their feel and much of that may be the way it is forged. A lot of factors and parameters go into making a nice club.

 

Absolutely, my friend! The base head material, both in type and quality, plays a key role in feel too! There is no doubt in my mind about that. And the thing is, the same macro level logic and physics about overall head shape affecting feel is applying at the micro level too. At the micro structure level, there are HUGE differences in the distribution of carbon, all other alloys, and even defects like air pockets throughout the base iron atoms. Once again, these differing structures at the micro level will all deform differently provided they are literally shaped differently. This is fundamentally no different than head shape affecting the feel. The physics of vibration gets down to the molecular level. As the whole head is vibrating like a tuning fork or flopping around like a fish, the individual molecules in the head are literally oscillating back and forth in relation to one another. And if the molecules are all oriented differently, then absolutely feel is different based on material property and quality alone.

 

LOL there is a reason all my technical posts are sprinkled with the phrase "all other things equal". It's because I know there are many other variables at stake.

[Bigmean]

I feel like it is important to disclose that my calipers are digital and from harbor freight.........I do recall being surprised that the BBs were thicker than the Vegas as they didn't look that way visually.

 

I went to the golfsmith and PGA store yesterday. Golfsmith is going out of business, and they are selling the launch monitors as well, which I find interesting. In my experience these stores systematically take 2 months to go out and make a ton of money on the remaining inventory.....like, it is more like a normal sale until last 2 weeks, you all know the deal, but I am going to stay on top of that launch monitor scene....I need to find their value, it is those silver ones on the floor that look like an industrial case.

 

Anyway, that aside, me and my boy who is just getting into golf and we went there for a driver, wound up spending 2 hours with one of the "golf tec" teachers on their screens and whatnot. We basically got a free lesson each because he was bored and we notoriously have super good vibes together and this stuff just happens. Their whole video lesson is way different than having your video sent in, and I really finally saw what was happening with driver and why it was mostly with driver and other clubs not so bad. I move laterally like a 1ft. On takeaway, from there, getting back I either time it right and get lucky, stay behind it or stuck and block it, or I instinctively save it with my hands/come through too much and boom low duck hook. I also take the club away lower than that "alley" drawn to the ball, like I really come off it flat, which dude said was fine, but I was like hmmm, that doesn't look that good. So in working with keeping my torso shift under control (I almost look like a baseball batter that moves back first before moving through) I could see immediate results in the videos, and I just wound up hitting the heel of the driver and mis hitting the face a bunch as a result of a total change in timing. The reason it is not as much with my irons is not due to the loft, but he fact I am not trying to swing 110mph so I am subconsciensly not shifting and overshifting weight and making things hard on myself to get back. And it is still there in my irons, believe me, but it is probably half the shift and ergo half the problems. So I need to put some time into this, but it was a nice unexpected surprise and I think the in person video lesson is what I need. When you can see yourself in 5 consecutive swings, working on something you can See is wrong, it is nice.

 

I don't think that golf tec lessons are going to get anyone too far per say, but I think if you did this kind of video lesson once or twice a year, it seems like it would be perfect for staying on top of keeping things clean or in my case if something comes up and isn't going away. The camera angles and instant drawing on the image and then repeats and then repeat where you can feel like you want to do something in a swing, then see it immediately after, then repeat.....I mean, I think an experienced golfer that knows a thing or two about basic swing stuff (like the wrx crowd) could really get a lot out of it. But again, i see it like a tune up or repair if like me you seem to have had a crash. So I am going to do 2 more this winter, what the hell.....then take that screen game to the dirt, then from the dirt to the course. Winter plan is laid out.

[Bigmean]

So I am in the garage putzing and figured why not check my lofts and lies. Well, I wanted to make a putter I have a couple degrees more upright, so i did that and then was like let's check the clubs.

 

I did them before this summer, and here is my question. I started with 9 and I am on 8 now. Both are about Right with loft, bit both are like 2 degrees more upright, I clearly played a lot, and I use both those at the range a lot, 9 most, but is a 2 degree swing in lie angle really normal or nothing to be alarmed about? I just want to make sure I did it right to start and am doing it right now, but basically, it is really hard to mess up setting up a club in a loft lie machine...

 

This is my first time using it for maintenance since I have got it, originally I set them to miura specs on page but made them strong by 1 degree. So at the time they were closer to the cbs I had.

 

Thoughts? I know guys talk about forged clubs getting out, 2 degrees of lie just seemed like a lot and both were more upright, I just want to be confident moving forward...

[DeNinny]

Biggie it depends on how long it took to drift 2*. If it was within a single season, that is a lot. Over the course of a few years, it is not too abnormal.

 

My Miura fitter just bent my BBs to 1* flat after I had them a year and a half. I always have them checked for drift and he said they were all at original specs like brand new.

 

Over the 9 years I played my mp67s, I would have lofts and lies checked every 2-3 years and at most I would have maybe 2 clubs that drifted by 1-2*. Most clubs stayed within 1* of my specs.

 

If you beat balls off matts mounted on concrete, you are going to make them drift off spec faster.

 

I am a paranoid MF'er about excessive loft and lie adjustments. Theoretically each one is a permanent deformation and each time that happens, the metal gets theoretically a little weaker. I'm not saying I'm worried about the head breaking off, but what I don't want is the specs to drift every single season.

[Bigmean]

I am wondering if I just did the lofts. If that is the case, it is possible the previous owner had them 2* upright as they were also 1/2" long when I got them..... Crap.

 

Out of curiosity, If they are too upright, does That promote left shots?

[DeNinny]

Too upright produces a draw. It is "as-if" you have the ball above your feet lie. The face angle becomes more closed the more you bring the toe of the club up in relation to perfectly level with the natural lie. (Edit: This is precisely why I had my BBs flattened 1*.)

 

Too flat produces a fade.

 

A club's loft is only that in relation to a level lie. As soon as you change that relation, the loft converts to either open or closed face bias depending on the direction of change. By the time you tilt the toe or heel up by 90*, you will notice that all loft will be gone and the loft angle will be fully converted to sidespin angle.

[Bigmean]

Standard lie for a 9 iron is 64*

 

Miura says the standard on their 9 small blade is 62*

 

 

My set is standard per the normal Internet consensus, not Miura, why does Miura send them out 2* flat, or why do they consider 2* flat standard? This is more or less across all their irons BTW, not just small blades....

 

I am thinking since I go left and have a flatter swing, that I go to Miura specs or just split them at 1* flat. Any thoughts from the gang on this?

[Sir Slicealot]

They envision short people using them??

[mahonie]

Standard lie for a 9 iron is 64*

 

Miura says the standard on their 9 small blade is 62*

 

 

My set is standard per the normal Internet consensus, not Miura, why does Miura send them out 2* flat, or why do they consider 2* flat standard? This is more or less across all their irons BTW, not just small blades....

 

I am thinking since I go left and have a flatter swing, that I go to Miura specs or just split them at 1* flat. Any thoughts from the gang on this?

 

Biggie, you need to hit a few shots on a lie board to see what is the right fit. I have had three fittings in the last few years that have always had me hitting a few shots off a lie board with lie tape on the sole of the club. Every time it shows that I need clubs 2* upright and once they are bent to that my shots go straighter...I usually hit a fade when set up at standard lie.

[Mitchell]

Japanese company would naturally release irons with a "standard" spec. geared to more likely fit market in country of origin.

[Kingcat990]

They envision short people using them??

 

The Japanese by nature are smaller than other cultures/race. Have you ever noticed that a lot of their shafts are lighter and a decent amount of torque.

 

Just lil guys over there....

[No_Catchy_Nickname]

Too upright will promote a fade.

I've been fitted on a lie board for clubs 1-2* more upright than standard, but I hit the ball left, so I actually got my MP-4s flattened a degree. Works OK for me.

 

Also, longer than standard shafts will, I think, have the effect of making the lies more upright, but I hope someone more knowledgeable chimes in to confirm or correct that.

[Sir Slicealot]

They envision short people using them??

 

The Japanese by nature are smaller than other cultures/race. Have you ever noticed that a lot of their shafts are lighter and a decent amount of torque.

 

Just lil guys over there....

Yes I have...as it was so obvious to me...I figured I had better pose it as a question? ?

[Bigmean]

The thought crossed my mind on Japanese being smaller, but i wasn't sure how valid that is for their "global" non Jdm lines.

 

I have a lie board, will just take it to the range before I go through the set. Just thought it was curious.

[DeNinny]

They envision short people using them??

 

The Japanese by nature are smaller than other cultures/race. Have you ever noticed that a lot of their shafts are lighter and a decent amount of torque.

 

Just lil guys over there....

Yes I have...as it was so obvious to me...I figured I had better pose it as a question?

 

My Miura fitter fitted me for my baby blades at 0.25" longer than the Miura website specs. When I called him on it he said there is an American standard that he fit me for instead of the Japanese standard. I guess Texas longhorn beats out Kobe beef.

 

In other news...I FINALLY broke 80 today for the first time this season. It has been pi$$ing me off that I haven't yet. 39-39. W00T! And I did it with my Retro TBs and entire backup bag. What was the key? Keeping my drives in play. I hit some really good GIRs but overall I don't even think I had a great iron striking day. My putter and driver were on fire. I putted better with my Tri-Hot #1 than my new Bosa. Go figure.

 

It also never hurts when I play with my wife. We have not played together in months and she came out for the front nine. Here she is driving on #5:

 

 

[BearQ]

Any Srixon Z945 users in here? Ive heard of some spin issues (too much and inconsistent), but Im hoping that was user or shaft related. The plan is to put Super Peening Blue's in them. Thinking it could be a good combo. I hear nothing but good things about the VT sole, I definitely think it could help me.

 

I'm a big fan of Lahiri and Varner III, and they both are phenomenal iron players (Z945 users), following them in person I've noticed they have awesome little divots and seem never to catch anything heavy. I know they are great strikers, but yes it's tempted me into buying them.

 

Moving from J15CB with C-Taper S+, didn't like the heads on short irons nor the wide soles. Also the shaft didn't suit me well either. Overall it was a failed project...

 

I'm going to likely do it, just need a little push in the right direction, after shaft install it will be an expensive project. It's worth it right fellas?!