cokeing a black pearl wedge

[provx]

anyone done this or has some idea what the end result will be?

[teak]

Don't think the cleveland black pearl is a finish that can be removed that way. In fact I remember Cleveland making a point of how tough a finish it was.

 

Also think vinegar + salt is better than coke (faster, less sticky residue and doesn't waste a good drink), but I guess the phase 'cokeing' has caught on.

[provx]

yeah i didn't really think coke would do anything to this finish, i was thinking someone might have another substance like the vinegar and salt you recommended that turned the finish into something wicked :(

[BigMike300c]

you got any pics of your wedge after cokeing it or vinger n salt, and does it affect the play? or just the look

 

 

thanks/mike

[provx]

well the point of this thread was to figure out what would happen with the looks and playability of the wedge before i attempted it, but it seems no one has been brave enough to test this out yet.

[response3]

The Cleveland Black Pearl finish is anodized into the metal, not a rust or oilcan finish applied to the surface that can wear off. I haven't tried it, but I don't think any solvent or otherwise can remove this finish. You would have to remove a few thousands of an inch worth of metal to get the anodized layer off.

[classick]

I've played with mine for a few days and only managed to get the sweet spot and sole worn off...it looks really nice though, I think I'll rust them tonight and show some pics if they turn out nice. To rust them is it ok to get the shafts submerged overnight too?

[Ducky]

So... how'd you go?

[diablojoe]

well the point of this thread was to figure out what would happen with the looks and playability of the wedge before i attempted it, but it seems no one has been brave enough to test this out yet.

It's anodized -- it can be removed, but not with CO2 in solution ("coking"). If you remove it, the metal is stainless steel and will not rust or otherwise corrode. The only way to remove the black finish is to abrade it. Steel wool would do the trick.

 

I have no idea why you'd want to do it -- if you like the silver color of the stainless, just get the chrome version and rub it with steel wool to give it a satin finish. I'm actually going to do that with a 50*. I have a 56* in the black, and I like variety.

[diablojoe]

So... how'd you go?

I'm going to guess it didn't rust. ;-)

[wildwilly911]

well the point of this thread was to figure out what would happen with the looks and playability of the wedge before i attempted it, but it seems no one has been brave enough to test this out yet.

It's anodized -- it can be removed, but not with CO2 in solution ("coking"). If you remove it, the metal is stainless steel and will not rust or otherwise corrode. The only way to remove the black finish is to abrade it. Steel wool would do the trick.

 

I have no idea why you'd want to do it -- if you like the silver color of the stainless, just get the chrome version and rub it with steel wool to give it a satin finish. I'm actually going to do that with a 50*. I have a 56* in the black, and I like variety.

not anodized there black chrome aggressive sand blasting or electro chemical stripping to take finish off

[golfluvzme]

Just a thought, because I have never tried this on golf clubs. When I was younger, I was into BMX. We had aluminum crank arms that were anodized for colors. If we wanted to strip the anodizing and polish them, we sprayed them with oven cleaner and let it go to work. I DO NOT remember how long we let it sit and work on the anodizing, so keep an eye on it, if you try this. THE FUMES ARE HORRIBLE! SO, DO IT OUTSIDE, PREFERABLY LET THE CLUB SIT IN THE SUN AND GET NICE AND HOT, FIRST.

Like I said, the last time I did this to anodizing, it was on aluminum and about 25 years ago. The oven cleaners of today may not even be the same formulation as the old ones, so it is a crap shoot.

If you try it, post before and after pics, here on WRX. I really am curious as to its effect.

Best of Luck,

LaMont in AZ

[Ducky]

I am thinking of trying something. The black pearl finish looks great when its new, but once you start using the clubs the inconsistent finish looks terrible (in my opinion).

[Horanp1]

Does anyone have pics of a well used black pearl finish. I have a couple CG12s that I have yet to hit. I would consider returning them if the finish isn't what I thought it is. Thanks ahead of time.

[Ducky]

I can take some pictures of mine that have only been used for a couple of range sessions. The finish looks terrible to be honest, it wears off too easily.

[zenman4711]

That black finish comes right off the CG12. I have the 56 and the sole and center of the face showed wear after 6 range balls hitting off grass.

[HeadonaStick]

well the point of this thread was to figure out what would happen with the looks and playability of the wedge before i attempted it, but it seems no one has been brave enough to test this out yet.

It's anodized -- it can be removed, but not with CO2 in solution ("coking"). If you remove it, the metal is stainless steel and will not rust or otherwise corrode. The only way to remove the black finish is to abrade it. Steel wool would do the trick.

 

I have no idea why you'd want to do it -- if you like the silver color of the stainless, just get the chrome version and rub it with steel wool to give it a satin finish. I'm actually going to do that with a 50*. I have a 56* in the black, and I like variety.

It isn't anodized - it is a proprietary Cleveland finish. They used to include a card with the CG10 BP's that described the process. It is a multiple layer micro-finish. Also, CMM clubs like the CG10 wedges and the CG1 Blades will rust. They are not stainless.

 

That said, you are correct, as far as I can tell anyway, in that abrasion is the only way to remove the finish.

[hattrick3518]

coke wont do a damned thing

[Ducky]

So whats the process? Rubbing it off with fine steel wool?

[BILL12x]

Personally, I think the finish looks great! Especially when the only worn spot is right in the middle of the face! Just like the browned out spots on forged irons.

 

Now, if that spot were nowhere near the middle, I might not like it very much!

[roper1313]

I've had my BP 56 for about 2 seasons now and still love the finish. It is worn a little bit, but not to the extreme that I've seen on some pictures here.

 

Now, the CG12s are stainless and the CG10s are CMM so the BP might not be binding as well to the stainless steel.

[Ducky]

Personally, I think the finish looks great! Especially when the only worn spot is right in the middle of the face! Just like the browned out spots on forged irons.

 

Now, if that spot were nowhere near the middle, I might not like it very much!

The problem is the sole and leading edge also wears off (as you would expect). It would be nice to simply get them to a consistant finish.