Fitting Tall Golfers With NO Chart or Preconceived Ideas!

[Cwebb]

7 minutes ago, mynameisntshawn said:

That's interesting, I could definitely approach it from that angle. In the past I haven't minded heavier total weight clubs as long as the swing weight is right. I suppose it might be worth ordering a wedge head to test as well. Does this group have any suggestion of good low-weight wedge heads to try out? I currently play Vokeys.

 

The point is that the actual "swing weight" or how the club weight really swings, won't be nearly the same, if you arrive at that number by bringing it down with counter weight.  Do all your swing weight comparisons with only a standard weight 50-52 gram grip.  Use a cut grip for testing your club builds.  Any counter weighting with actual weights or through extra grip weight is a separate fitting variable.....generally not beneficial if trying to make a club swing lighter.

 

If you order from a company like the Golfworks, they can hand pick heads on the lighter side of the weight tolerance to make sure you get the lightest available.  That tolerance is usually +- 3 grams.  From there you can step drill and deep bore in the bottom of the hosel to remove a few more grams....along with porting the "flange" or back side of the sole.

[mynameisntshawn]

Having done some more research I understand what you're saying about not "tricking" the SW scale by just adding CB weighting to the butt. As a general rule, then, I should start with a normal grip, a stiffer shaft than I usually use (since we're going longer), as light a shaft as possible, then find ways to remove head weight until it all feels right. I don't even have a swingweight scale, I just know what feels right. I'm probably not willing to mess too much with drilling out my vokeys, but I would be willing to experiment with some Maltby heads.

[Cwebb]

1 hour ago, mynameisntshawn said:

Having done some more research I understand what you're saying about not "tricking" the SW scale by just adding CB weighting to the butt. As a general rule, then, I should start with a normal grip, a stiffer shaft than I usually use (since we're going longer), as light a shaft as possible, then find ways to remove head weight until it all feels right. I don't even have a swingweight scale, I just know what feels right. I'm probably not willing to mess too much with drilling out my vokeys, but I would be willing to experiment with some Maltby heads.

 

You don't have to use the lightest iron shaft possible, but something a bit lighter than you used at a shorter length will certainly help lower your "full club MOI" or how much force it takes to swing the longer club.

 

The wedge head weights are the key components for getting them as light as possible

[mynameisntshawn]

Seems like the Cobra One Length wedges might be a good option here, since they're made with longer shaft lengths in mind. Initial research has them about 30g lighter than Vokeys.

[umamimami]

I stumbled across this thread looking for advice on making wedge heads lighter. 
 

I’m 6’4” with a WTF just under 38 in. 
 

Heres video of me without shoes, showing postures with two old pitching wedges. Both heads are oversized. Length is 35.5” and 37.5”.
 

Notice how the first one doesn’t even touch the ground. I can manipulate the clubhead around and even on the same plane as the earth but at a huge postural cost / lots of manipulation.

 

Compare to my similar demonstration with the extended length wedge. I hope this helps show taller people what the length gets you. You get to acccess the ability to move the club on the same plane as the earth without the crazy compensations.
 

Especially in the shortest clubs. If you’re typical height, when you go up from a wedge to a mid iron you go from being in wedge posture to being in full shot posture. 
 

If you’re around my height or much taller, when you grip a long iron you go into full shot posture. When you grip anything shorter you skip past the other postures and cram down/stretch down into “finesse chip shot” posture. We simply can’t get the club to the earth without compromising something.

 

Our shoulders socket too damn far away from our toes. And the ball tends to be around toe height. . 

 

Some argue you have “less control” due to the fact that the club is longer. I think that’s because they’re thinking you’d get into full shot posture. Because that’s what they do when they grab a 37” club. They feel less on-top of the shot thus harder to control. They’re picturing shots from the 150 stick and cautioning us against losing control. I’m just trying to make contact on a short par-3.

 

For me the cost to my game of heavier clubs is so much less than the cost to my game of rarely holding a club long enough to make an actual golf swing with.  

 

[umamimami]

37.5in PW 

 

 

[Mr Fade]

This is one great thread for us tall golfers. I am 6´6" (with shoes) and WTF at 38.5. I decided to go really long, which means that my driver is 48 inches and my Lob wedge is around 40. 7 iron at 42, i.e. 5 over. Heavier and much stiffer shafts is a must just as much lighter heads. Initial results are great with a comfortable setup and balanced swing.

[ShortGolfer]

I bought a dirt cheap Ping 7 iron demo head.  Weighs 254g.  I'll make a sleeve with a machine lathe to go from a 0.370 shaft to about 0.425" OD out of brass. A 7/16 shaft is a little too big to fit.

I'll chamfer the sleeve to prevent creating a stress point with the shaft. The sleeve could be made out of aluminum which is lighter, as the epoxy will prevent electrolysis.  

 

Demo heads are really cheap on ebay right now so maybe this may be a useful for idea for finding the club length that works best.  I don't have a stock head but I'd guess the demo head is 10g lighter.

 

 

[Cwebb]

16 hours ago, ShortGolfer said:

I bought a dirt cheap Ping 7 iron demo head.  Weighs 254g.  I'll make a sleeve with a machine lathe to go from a 0.370 shaft to about 0.425" OD out of brass. A 7/16 shaft is a little too big to fit.

I'll chamfer the sleeve to prevent creating a stress point with the shaft. The sleeve could be made out of aluminum which is lighter, as the epoxy will prevent electrolysis.  

 

Demo heads are really cheap on ebay right now so maybe this may be a useful for idea for finding the club length that works best.  I don't have a stock head but I'd guess the demo head is 10g lighter.

 

 

 

The stock spec weight of a 7 iron is generally about 268g.  So at 254 you're a full "2 clubs" lighter based on a standard 7g increment per club

[Zep17]

On 12/10/2023 at 12:20 PM, Mr Fade said:

This is one great thread for us tall golfers. I am 6´6" (with shoes) and WTF at 38.5. I decided to go really long, which means that my driver is 48 inches and my Lob wedge is around 40. 7 iron at 42, i.e. 5 over. Heavier and much stiffer shafts is a must just as much lighter heads. Initial results are great with a comfortable setup and balanced swing.

How did you deal with swingweight and what shafts are you using? I'm 6'8 with WTF 43" and I'm struggling to find anyone who build clubs longer than +2". Any recommendation who builds such clubs? 

[Mr Fade]

1 hour ago, Zep17 said:

How did you deal with swingweight and what shafts are you using? I'm 6'8 with WTF 43" and I'm struggling to find anyone who build clubs longer than +2". Any recommendation who builds such clubs? 

Swingweights are on the higher side of standard but nothing crazy thanks to the light heads. The only one I know of that builds clubs like this is "Tall Man Golf". They use shafts from True Temper at 192 grams uncut. Heads are forged and very thin. No other way to take weight off. They are very nice heads.

[jrdubbb]

I am 6'3" with a wrist to floor of 36". I know I am not on the very tall side, but still had a question with swing weights. I recently had a set of Takomo 301 CB/MB heads built at a golf shop with TT TI X100's at + 1/2" with super stroke cord grips and my swing weights are between E1-E3 throughout the set. This even alternates between clubs (4i is E1, 5i E3, 6i E1). I know that the clubs feel heavier but thought that was just going from 120-gram X100 to 130-gram X100. Should I be concerned with having all of my swing weights in the E's? I have always liked the feel of a heavier, sledgehammer feeling club, but not sure if this is too much or just seeing them weigh out in the E's was a shock.  

[Cwebb]

3 hours ago, jrdubbb said:

I am 6'3" with a wrist to floor of 36". I know I am not on the very tall side, but still had a question with swing weights. I recently had a set of Takomo 301 CB/MB heads built at a golf shop with TT TI X100's at + 1/2" with super stroke cord grips and my swing weights are between E1-E3 throughout the set. This even alternates between clubs (4i is E1, 5i E3, 6i E1). I know that the clubs feel heavier but thought that was just going from 120-gram X100 to 130-gram X100. Should I be concerned with having all of my swing weights in the E's? I have always liked the feel of a heavier, sledgehammer feeling club, but not sure if this is too much or just seeing them weigh out in the E's was a shock.  

 

All depends on how they perform for you.  Test your impact pattern on the face, while monitoring ball flight

[loheiman]

On 1/2/2024 at 3:20 AM, Zep17 said:

How did you deal with swingweight and what shafts are you using? I'm 6'8 with WTF 43" and I'm struggling to find anyone who build clubs longer than +2". Any recommendation who builds such clubs? 

 

I've been looking at the Maltby KE4 Max irons which allow for +/- 8g adjustment of head weight. Pairing that with a very light graphite shaft should help you get close to the original SW. I plan on going this route for about +1" (6'3", 37.25" WTF).

 

For example:
The KE4 with their Score LT shaft (117g) and a 50g grip is supposedly D0. 

+ 2" length = +12 SW points
- 50g in shaft weight (Aldila NV 55)  = -5 to 6 SW points 

-8 g head wt = -4 points

Net: +2-3 SW points
 

Edited September 16, 2024 by loheiman

[loheiman]

Curious if folks who have opted for large length increases have kept the usual 1/2" length progression between clubs or also moved to something like 3/8".

 

For example if you set the 7i as the starting point, increased 1" from 37" to 38", then used 3/8" increments from there, the 8, 9, PW etc would all be greater than 1" from standard. 

 

I understand Rybos method determines the ideal length at both ends rather than from the middle but I don't have access to a really long wedge/low iron etc.

[loheiman]

I'm 6'3" with 37" WTF.

 

I hit some demo clubs over the weekend at my approximate planned lengths and was happy with the results. I hit a 6i that was 38.5" and SW at 36.5". My plan is to use 3/8" increments between all clubs (except PW = GW and 52 = 56). 3 iron will be +0.5", 7 iron +1", SW +1.25".

 

I went ahead and ordered a 7 iron test club (Maltby KE4 Max, MPF Pro S 85g shaft, Sonar+ Oversized grip) and looking forward to hitting It a bunch before pulling the trigger on the rest of the set.

 

Curious what length drivers most the tall folks here play. I recently got a 44.5" one after not playing one for awhile and still figuring out how to hit it. I know many recommend shorter drivers but would a 45.5 driver feel like a " shorter drivers" for tall folks with 37"+ WTF?

 

More details on my planned build are here:

 

Edited October 10, 2024 by loheiman

[toddmanley]

I'm going to try and breathe some life into my backup set (Callaway TCB's).  Originally had them built up with Mitsubishi MMT 105TX with the lighter 5g weight in the head but going to experiment with putting some DG TI 120 X100's in them.  Since I've been playing regular DG TI X100's in my old Apex Pros (which are heavy given I play +1.5" and 2* up), I'm hoping this change goes well.  Hoping to enjoy the feel of the DG shaft as the MMT's felt a little dead to me over the past 2 years.

[J295]

Super interesting and thanks to Rybo and the rest of you who have helped me get started on this education process.  
 

I’m 65 years old and have drifted up to a seven cap.   I’m 6’4” and 210 pounds.  
 

1.   What is the step-by-step process you would use to arrive at new irons?   I can get my measurements and figure out the minimum and maximum length as described by Rybo, but what about things like swing weight, shaft selection, lie angle, other?
 

2.   Will I need to buy some equipment and learn club making, or just have these things done by our pro shop here? (we live on a Pete Dye course and the team here can help me with their equipment).  Is Club making rocket science or is it something I could figure out with a little help?

3. Perhaps it was discussed and I missed it, but should I consider experimenting with extensions in the driver, three metal, five metal?  Having now read this post, perhaps the fact that I’m the D player in our foursome (including a state am champ and a senior club champ) yet the best driver of the golf ball (and the worst iron player) isn’t a surprise. 

 

I had an independent fitting, as well as fittings by the Titleist and Callaway folks when they came around to the club this spring.  So I have some recommendations, but I’m sensing that those recommendations are only a starting point for me and I need to do some independent experimentation.   
 

Thank you for anyone who can offer some wisdom here!

[596]

@J295 

 

I'm 6 3 at 200lb, 70 yoa and an 8 cap. So pretty close to you.  Very long arms and legs (36" inseam).  I've never played anything extreme. Plus 1/2" and 2* up.  I was fitted at Ping many moons ago. Over the years I've stuck to that fitting except overall weight.  Used to pay steel 115g shafts. As I got older with 2 titanium hips I've backed down to 75g Recoil Darts in irons and lighter wood and hybrid shafts.  I can also play a driver at 45.75" without a problem with actually a senior flex shaft at a SS of 87.  I can also play the same driver with a regular flex Hazardous Black low spin shaft.  

 

Nothing beats experimenting! 

[J295]

12 hours ago, 596 said:

@J295 

 

I'm 6 3 at 200lb, 70 yoa and an 8 cap. So pretty close to you.  Very long arms and legs (36" inseam).  I've never played anything extreme. Plus 1/2" and 2* up.  I was fitted at Ping many moons ago. Over the years I've stuck to that fitting except overall weight.  Used to pay steel 115g shafts. As I got older with 2 titanium hips I've backed down to 75g Recoil Darts in irons and lighter wood and hybrid shafts.  I can also play a driver at 45.75" without a problem with actually a senior flex shaft at a SS of 87.  I can also play the same driver with a regular flex Hazardous Black low spin shaft.  

 

Nothing beats experimenting! 

Appreciate you sharing and your encouragement.
 

I’ve honestly never experimented, just bought what the pro recommended after a fitting session and started grinding.

 

Do you buy and sell while experimenting or build and modify in house?

[596]

@J295

 

I've done both.  Once I find a shaft head combo that works, I'll fiddle with lead tape until they feel right.  But most of the time I don't need the lead tape. I've added tape everywhere experimenting. On the head, low on the shaft, on the balance point. But I always go back to the original build without tape.  I did eliminate the Tour JM grips are they are way too heavy.  I have to use the Ultralights.  Heads really don't affect me much unless it's extreme difference. Like going to the Cobra T Rails from PXG 0211.  But I score well with either of them. 

 

I'll add that I can adjust pretty easily to just about any setup.  I have no big problems changing my swing.  When I dropped from 115g to 75g iron shafts it took no time adjusting to the difference.  I can score low 70s or less with either set I have. Even changing driver shafts is no big deal.

 

 

[ShortGolfer]

One idea may be to try light graphite shafts to avoid excessive swing weights and see if you can adjust to a more flexible club in a driver or driving iron.

Maybe over a few weeks, as opposed to a comparison during a fitting.  It is easy enough to swap driver shafts.

 

I use an extremely light LL flex in a 22* 4 iron off the tee and fairway.

 

I've heard the OG TM Stealth driver head  is lighter in Ladies than in Mens.  I think Club Champion has a database for looking that up.

Edited April 19 by ShortGolfer

[J295]

Q. Are most of you comfortable with similar shafts in your scoring wedges, which in my case are used primarily for partial shots.  By similar I’m thinking same flex and maybe just a bit heavier (considering dart recoil 95 regular flex). 

 

Background

65-year-old 8 cap, just switched from kbs tour lite stiff shaft (104g) to dart recoil 90 regular flex (90g).  I did some thorough on course testing to arrive at the shaft selection, as the studio fittings were having me at both regular and stiff (I went to an independent guy, then also at our club had an evaluation by the Callaway guy and the title of sky when they came around for their demo days).  In the past, my titleist wedges have been stock steel shafts. 
 

 

Edited April 23 by J295

[rsballer10]

16 minutes ago, J295 said:

Q. Are most of you comfortable with similar shafts in your scoring wedges, which in my case are used primarily for partial shots.  By similar I’m thinking same flex and maybe just a bit heavier (considering dart recoil 95 regular flex). 

 

Background

65-year-old 8 cap, just switched from kbs tour lite stiff shaft (104g) to dart recoil 90 regular flex (90g).  I did some thorough on course testing to arrive at the shaft selection, as the studio fittings were having me at both regular and stiff (I went to an independent guy, then also at our club had an evaluation by the Callaway guy and the title of sky when they came around for their demo days).  In the past, my titleist wedges have been stock steel shafts. 
 

 

A. I think you have to really consider the length of your wedges when it comes to what weight shaft to play. I am 6'5", 38" WTF so I'm pretty tall by golf standards, not that tall compared to others in this thread. Also a bit younger than most as well (34). For that reason, I can still play +1/2" in my irons and be fine. My wedges are DGS300, irons DG120 and the swing weights are manageable.

 

When I was younger, I played +1" straight off the static fit, and at one point played my wedges single length, same length as PW. When wedges get +1" or more, my recommendation is NOT to go heavier, which is the standard recommendation. If you do want a heavier shaft, I'd highly recommend porting your wedges to bring the swing weight down. 

 

The easier solution is to keep a lighter shaft in the wedges, the higher swing weight offsets the lighter club and it creates the right amount of "heft" without needing a drill press.

Edited April 23 by rsballer10

[J295]

1 hour ago, rsballer10 said:

A. I think you have to really consider the length of your wedges when it comes to what weight shaft to play. I am 6'5", 38" WTF so I'm pretty tall by golf standards, not that tall compared to others in this thread. Also a bit younger than most as well (34). For that reason, I can still play +1/2" in my irons and be fine. My wedges are DGS300, irons DG120 and the swing weights are manageable.

 

When I was younger, I played +1" straight off the static fit, and at one point played my wedges single length, same length as PW. When wedges get +1" or more, my recommendation is NOT to go heavier, which is the standard recommendation. If you do want a heavier shaft, I'd highly recommend porting your wedges to bring the swing weight down. 

 

The easier solution is to keep a lighter shaft in the wedges, the higher swing weight offsets the lighter club and it creates the right amount of "heft" without needing a drill press.

Great detail.  Thanks!

[J295]

I’ve zeroed in on my lower and upper range per the initial post self fitting suggestions 38.25 GW and 41.25 for 5 iron).  I’ve landed on an iron shaft based on fitting session and on course testing (Dart Recoil 90 regular).  

Challenge is it appears I can’t order the  Mizuno Pro 245 in lengths I’d like (online add on length is insufficient). 
 

So I guess I’ll have a local fitter order the shafts and put them into my existing Ping i525.  
 

Any other options?  Extenders (I don’t know anything about the wisdom of extenders).  Buying Mizuno new then re-shafting seems a bit much.  

 

Edited April 28 by J295

[Cwebb]

8 minutes ago, J295 said:

I’ve zeroed in on my lower and upper range per the initial post self fitting suggestions 38.25 GW and 41.25 for 5 iron).  I’ve landed on an iron shaft based on fitting session and on course testing (Dart Recoil 90 regular).  

Challenge is it appears I can’t order the  Mizuno Pro 245 in lengths I’d like (online add on length is insufficient). 
 

So I guess I’ll have a local fitter order the shafts and put them into my existing Ping i525.  
 

Any other options?  Extenders (I don’t know anything about the wisdom of extenders).  Buying Mizuno new then re-shafting seems a bit much.  

 

 

Have you looked into Maltby iron heads?  They're outstanding in design and you can get the heads individually in component form or have them build to your specs

[loheiman]

2 hours ago, Cwebb said:

 

Have you looked into Maltby iron heads?  They're outstanding in design and you can get the heads individually in component form or have them build to your specs

 

+100. I think for us tall folks, getting Maltby clubs custom built at Golfworks is absolutely the way to go. Can specify the length of every single club and get a set for half the price of conventional. I'm very happy with my set of KE4 Max I got late last year. 

[J295]

I’m following the experiment process of the original poster. 
 

Started by putting in a lighter shaft in the wedge at 38 inches. Did a line test and the lie is fine. Wedge at 38 inches feels too long, but most significantly it feels too heavy.

 

Or pro indicated the swing weight was too high and we would need to work on that if I felt the club was too heavy. I’ll talk to him tomorrow and see what his thoughts are on getting a better swing weight. In the meantime, what do you think are my options?

 

Ping I500 iron heads and dart recoil 90 shafts. A midsize grip.  
 

 

[Cwebb]

On 5/7/2025 at 6:54 PM, J295 said:

I’m following the experiment process of the original poster. 
 

Started by putting in a lighter shaft in the wedge at 38 inches. Did a line test and the lie is fine. Wedge at 38 inches feels too long, but most significantly it feels too heavy.

 

Or pro indicated the swing weight was too high and we would need to work on that if I felt the club was too heavy. I’ll talk to him tomorrow and see what his thoughts are on getting a better swing weight. In the meantime, what do you think are my options?

 

Ping I500 iron heads and dart recoil 90 shafts. A midsize grip.  
 

 

 

Does it just feel too long because you're not used to it, or have you determined that it actually is too long?  Going shorter will also lower the swing-weight.

 

The idea with this method is to first statically determine a lowest effective length starting point.  Then figure out what can or needs to be done with the weight