Debadging Wishon 560's

[PeanutsDaddy]

Curiosity got the better of me.

 

I was reshafting my Wishon 560's and decided to see what was under the A wedge badge. I applied low heat with a heat gun for 20 seconds, placed the tip of an X-Acto knife in the upper right hand corner of the badge and slowly began to peel. The badge was removed easily, leaving remnants of a backing material and adhesive. I filled the cavity with Goo Gone and let the head sit for 5 minutes. I then cleaned the cavity with a wire brush and soapy water. The residue was gone in less than a minute revealing milling marks from the manufacturing process (similar to the marks that are already visible in the cavity). I pulled the remaining cavity badges with minimal damage. If I wish I could reinstall the badges at a later date.

 

I was going to have to add lead tape to a few of the heads regardless as the graphite shafts do not afford me the opportunity to install tip weights. It was easy to add the tape to the cavity once the badges were removed. Each badge weighed approximately 2 grams for those interested.

 

I really like the final appearance of the 'Canadian Specials'. I didn't want to commit the funds to a new set of Wishon 565's just yet so this was a nice compromise. I don't notice a change in feel with the badges removed.

 

Here are a few images documenting the journey for those that may wish to follow a similar path in the future. I searched for a thread prior to the build and couldn't find one.

 

Cheers,

 

Mike.

 

 

 

PS - I apologize if the photo orientation is buggered. I don't have a clue.

[dan360]

Reminds me of the CB3 unbadging I did a couple years back.

 

Adams had ugly foundry marks in the cavities. Wishon has alcoholic monkey-on-a-mill marks. lol

 

Sometimes I think the badges are for cost control more than anything.

[tx33]

I was going to have to add lead tape to a few of the heads regardless as the graphite shafts do not afford me the opportunity to install tip weights. It was easy to add the tape to the cavity once the badges were removed. Each badge weighed approximately 2 grams for those interested.

You know the 560 has a built-in hosel weight port so you can add weigh without messing with tip weights? Do you notice a difference in sound @ impact without the badges?

[PeanutsDaddy]

I was going to have to add lead tape to a few of the heads regardless as the graphite shafts do not afford me the opportunity to install tip weights. It was easy to add the tape to the cavity once the badges were removed. Each badge weighed approximately 2 grams for those interested.

You know the 560 has a built-in hosel weight port so you can add weigh without messing with tip weights? Do you notice a difference in sound @ impact without the badges?

 

Thank you for the suggestion.

 

This is a set that has been built a handful of times. There are weights installed in the hosel ports already. I only had to add weight to the PW and AW as I wanted to get them to D5 and D6.

 

I can't tell a difference in sound whatsoever. I swapped graphite shafts (the new ones being a bit heavier) and don't notice a change other than weight.

[PeanutsDaddy]

Alcoholic monkey-on-a-mill marks. About sums it up. I do believe the badges are a cost saving venture as opposed to a technical addition.

 

I really don't mind the appearance Dan.

 

If I had a blasting cabinet I would probably bead blast the cavity to a satin finish, but I don't.

[5hort5tuff]

Alcoholic monkey-on-a-mill marks. About sums it up. I do believe the badges are a cost saving venture as opposed to a technical addition.

 

I really don't mind the appearance Dan.

 

If I had a blasting cabinet I would probably bead blast the cavity to a satin finish, but I don't.

 

Don't! The mill marks are unique. They look better than a nasty thick badge thrown on the back of an iron.

[geochitown]

Sorry for re-surrecting an old thread. I too have purchased a set of 560MC's (very excited), but they are an earlier iteration that looks to have a plastic badge, so I don't necessarily want to add heat as it will melt the badge.

I am not worried about resale, so I wouldn't mind if the badges were ruined in the process.

It would be nice to know if the plastic badge will easily come off and there is nothing else behind it that I could mess up.

Hopefully, the badge serves the same purpose, which is to cover up milling marks (which I think would look cool just like PDaddy's irons)

Any help is appreciated

[Nessism]

> @geochitown said:

> Sorry for re-surrecting an old thread. I too have purchased a set of 560MC's (very excited), but they are an earlier iteration that looks to have a plastic badge, so I don't necessarily want to add heat as it will melt the badge.

> I am not worried about resale, so I wouldn't mind if the badges were ruined in the process.

> It would be nice to know if the plastic badge will easily come off and there is nothing else behind it that I could mess up.

> Hopefully, the badge serves the same purpose, which is to cover up milling marks (which I think would look cool just like PDaddy's irons)

> Any help is appreciated

 

Use a torch on the FACE. Move it around for about 7 seconds or so, then use an exacto to lift up one edge of the badge and then pull it off. Tom posted here about how someone in his shop updated the badge on all the heads he had in stock at the time. Doubt they even used heat (although from experience that makes it easier.) Those clubs use a metallic badge, not plastic.

[geochitown]

Heat on the face, duh!

Thanks Ness.

The badge on my 560's looks different than the badge shown in this thread.

 

 

[Cwebb]

Any effect on feel/sound that the badge and adhesive _may_ have provided, emphasis on "may", was replaced by the lead tape, which can also have the same effect

[geochitown]

Thanks !

I use lead tape so that shouldn’t be an issue

[PeanutsDaddy]

 

Geochitown,

 

I did not use any heat when removing the badges, but like the idea of heating the face. I did use a hobby knife and slowly worked my way in from one of the corners. They lifted pretty easily and Goo Gone cleaned the cavity. I assume that yours will feature the same milling marks that you see on my heads above. I did not notice a change in sound when I removed the badges (not all had lead tape added), but as mentioned before I did lose a few grams of weight per head. Your badge was featured on the original design. The head that I posted above had the badge updated for aesthetic reasons. Always liked the original better.

 

Good luck with this fun little project. Fabulous head design.

[BIG STU]

> @PeanutsDaddy said:

>

> Geochitown,

>

> I did not use any heat when removing the badges, but like the idea of heating the face. I did use a hobby knife and slowly worked my way in from one of the corners. They lifted pretty easily and Goo Gone cleaned the cavity. I assume that yours will feature the same milling marks that you see on my heads above. I did not notice a change in sound when I removed the badges (not all had lead tape added), but as mentioned before I did lose a few grams of weight per head. Your badge was featured on the original design. The head that I posted above had the badge updated for aesthetic reasons. Always liked the original better.

>

> Good luck with this fun little project. Fabulous head design.

 

Just saw this thread--- "Canadian Special" eh?---- I know what the original "Canadian Special" is------ Question ??? Did you gram out the head before and after badge removal? Was curious as to what the weight was spread out. I see with the lead tape you are putting the weight in a more central location which is one way I tune some clubs. I actually have a set of Callaway 2013 X Forged and I am thinking on de badging on the same lines and adding weight directly behind the sweet spot.

[PeanutsDaddy]

Stu,

The brain's a bit foggy as I completed this project 2 + years ago. The badges were in the 2 gram range and I believe I added 4 grams of lead tape (maximum) to one of the wedge heads.

 

Definitely know where the original 'Canadian Special' ended up. I hope that 2 iron stinger is treating you well.

Mike

[BIG STU]

Thanks man that was about the weight I figured. I had it out the other day along with a 1950 Macgregor 1 iron. Yep I can still hit that little stinger with that thing. In fact I am thinking about pulling my KZG 3 iron from my set and putting it in since it is also Japanese forged and hits just as soft