Youtube refinishing classic MacGregor 693T driver

[mocokid]

series by John Erickson of ABS fame, part 1 of 6, recently posted the other day. Part 1-- I just saw and is amazingly good, he removes the shaft. Highly recommended. The clubmaker's name is Mike Rees and what a tool bench....

 

 

I saw another where he removes a pin from a DX iron and found out that most of these irons were NOT glued. WOW this is good.

[freddiec]

Great videos posted my John. Total restoration, shaft reset, etc of a nice 693. Always wanted to see a craftsman like Mike at work.

[mocokid]

So awesome, always wanted to do the whole works, I could do refinish, but never would pull persimmon heads. I'm in awe. Wonderful to see.

[DM70]

Bookmarked! Wonderfully informative and very generous from Mike Rees in sharing his knowledge. While I've read about most (and tried some) of these steps in the past this really is another level of instruction.

[baloo]

I watched them all. Was terrific to see

[wkuo3]

First visual lesson. I had only seen partial work done in this now closed shop ( knew the owner ), and a couple of instruction books for golf club repair re-finishing.

 

I'm grateful someone would say things like " this might crack the hosel, but not a big deal if not all the way down to the sole...", I'd freak out had I not being walked through with the step.

[DM70]

New video out on leather grip care, Mike recommends neatsfoot oil for leather conditioning. I've seen other recommendations for that, I'll give that a shot for sure.

[scomac2002]

I watched them all. Was terrific to see

 

As did I. Thanks for posting the link! :good:

[mocokid]

Still trying to figure out how he attached the back screw, tapping or screwing, have to watch again.

[Langlands]

Excellent videos, thanks for sharing. I watched all six back to back, fantastic workmanship. Fine workshop and club collection too.

[robert horneman]

OMG , I wish I could comment but I will bite my lip!

[Bella Woods]

OMG , I wish I could comment but I will bite my lip!

 

Ditto for me robert horneman.........

[baloo]

Might be sending an M33 driver to Mike to refinish. Was going to do it myself, but I need many more hours of practice.

He's a super nice guy, easy to work with. Glad they put videos out for others to learn from. There's not a bunch of great material around about this kind of stuff. I do have an old Maltby book, but find videos are much easier to follow.

[scomac2002]

OMG , I wish I could comment but I will bite my lip!

 

Ditto for me robert horneman.........

 

I don't understand the point of these two posts. If some great sin has been committed than you need to share it with the rest of us for our education, otherwise it's just a drive-by attack or at least that's the way it appears. If you aren't prepared to provide details then you shouldn't have said anything! :huh:

[mocokid]

I hope they both enjoyed it, what was not to like?

[baloo]

OMG , I wish I could comment but I will bite my lip!

 

Ditto for me robert horneman.........

 

I don't understand the point of these two posts. If some great sin has been committed than you need to share it with the rest of us for our education, otherwise it's just a drive-by attack or at least that's the way it appears. If you aren't prepared to provide details then you shouldn't have said anything! :huh:

 

I thought about responding to these two as well. If you really are biting your tongue, that would mean not posting at all!

There's nothing wrong with constructive criticism... Mike and John put work into making these videos that are helpful to many. Would love to know what helpful documentation and videos Belle and Robert have made?? I'm guessing they haven't produced anything, but I wouldn't mind being wrong.

[Bella Woods]

Ok, here is the constructive criticism......

 

Never seen a veteran club guy twist a classic wood head off like that without the neck being taped

and the shaft heated to some extent to loosen up any glue. You are inviting disaster on most classic

wood heads - they will split big time in many instances..... Putting it out there to someone who does not

know any better is misleading.

 

As far as helpful videos, I personally still have a day job and don't have the time. There is a multitude

of info out there in print and pictures covering many years on how to take a shaft out of a head anyway.

 

I don't know anything about this guy so I am not calling into question his work or knowledge, I didn't say

anything because I didn't want to take away from his efforts with the video.

 

Not a drive by attack scomac2002, just had the same thought as robert horneman (probably about the

same thing) and responded to his post in the few minutes I have on this forum this time of year......

[scomac2002]

Thanks for the response, Bella. I appreciate you taking the time and detailing what you have issue with. That's a legitimate concern.

 

I still don't understand why you thought it inappropriate to point this out initially when it can be such a big issue.

[Bella Woods]

scomac2002

 

I would never second guess someones methods..... Maybe he can feel in his hands when he does this that it

will be "ok" on a particular club - I don't know.

 

But I bet most can't, especially someone who has no experience doing it. Never thought it was

inappropriate, just seconding the "emotion" of Mr. Horneman...........

[rex235]

Bella-

 

+1 with your explanation, and your concern.

 

There aren't that many LH MacGregor Tommy Armour 693s in existence- Yes there are some, but that's not the issue here.

 

I for one welcome the information shared on these videos and by others who have put in the time and done this kind of work towards sharing their knowledge and experiences.

 

A fair and thoughtful critique of these experiences will serve to guide those who wish to undertake this vanishing art of golf club repair in the future.

[robert horneman]

I consider Dave Wood a Master Craftsman. If anyone wants to learn how to repair and refinish old woods I suggest printing Dave Wood's procedure. Another excellent source is Ralph Maltbys Golf Club Repair In Pictures.

A couple things about this video are: I would never replace insert screws that have been sawed thru by a novice repairman. If you don't have Reed and Prince (Frearson) screws, then Phillips screws, only as a last resort. I don't think he abraded the back of the insert or bottom of the soleplate.That needs be done. Also epoxy should be put on all pieces to be assembled ,insert ,soleplate and shaft and hosel. I feel new correct whipping should be used.

MR Bella is correct NEVER twist a wooden head off a shaft! Pull straight off. I do not want to nit pick the man's work. I hope I didn't.

I appreciate their efforts to bring this video out. I could never do it.

[baloo]

Bella/Robert

Appreciate you coming back and explaining. I don't find the critique rude or inappropriate in any way. Comes off much better than the original comments. It gives people more ideas on how to do this work.

[robert horneman]

I wish persimmonpal and prsmnstudio would comment on the video.

[tlhorsh]

Haven't seen those guys on in a while.

[persimmonpal]

Hi Everyone!

 

FreddieC gave me the heads up that someone mentioned old Persimmonpal.. thought I would hop on and see what was up.

 

I watched the first video, and I also read through all the comments.

 

I definitely have no business nit picking or commenting negatively on Mike's work, everyone has their own way, and hey, at least Mike is still doing refinishing. I will say this though, as a previous writer mentioned, I wouldn't ever twist a persimmon club off the shaft, without first whipping the hosel end of the head. Especially when there is still remnants of a shaft pin in there.

 

On the video, when he is twisting that head... for a 1/4 turn or so it looks like it is spinning easy, then it tightens up. Its doing that because the back pin hasn't cleared the shaft, and as he turns it, the pin is digging into the interior of the neck. With old woods, or any woods really, its extremely easy to twist a bit too hard, and then you have a hosel split from the start of the crown to the end of the head..

I would always set the head in a vice, remove thru-shaft screw, and with a 3/8" bit, drill down into the shaft until I hit the back pin. Drill through the back pin and 7 out of 10 times enough of it will pop out of the back of the neck to grab with needle nose pliers. the other three times I just use a nail punch to push the piece back into the shaft, and then drill through again. At that point if you cant grab the head of the screw, you can push it back in again, and it will usually fall down into the shaft.

 

If the back end of the screw is still through the interior of the shaft, I would change placement on the vise, and with the nail punch drive that set screw past the shaft, little by little, and then the head comes free.

Either way you do it, it should never be done without whipping the neck of the shaft REALLY tightly before removing.

 

I have so many things going on in my life I havent done a club in a long time. I want to, I just have too many other things that are taking preference. I still have bought a few nice sets that I have every intention of restoring, someday, but not any time soon.

 

I read a comment about not abrading the back of an insert.. I agree 100%.

As for epoxy, I epoxy every single screw, plate, etc, and really load it up when doing the insert. How many refinished woods have you seen where the finish is cured and hard, but split right at the seem where the insert meets the crown? thats just because the refinisher didnt epoxy it correctly, and there is no chemical bond between the insert and the head, just a physical bond (the screws). You need both.

 

I will prob watch the other videos at some point.

 

Gotta say I miss being a regular contributor.. life has gotten a bit weird for me the last 5-6 years.. Not bad, just things happen that send you off on a different course and things change. I wish I had the time to do clubs. I have a great set of TA 653T Eye O Matics that I would really love to refinish.. I am just waiting on getting the two wood, which I do not have. Anybody have a nice one out there? If I get one maybe I will refinish them and make a video series of my own, going through the process... hmmmm

 

 

In the meantime, if anyone has a question about how to do something, or would like a video of something they would llike to see, drop me a note.. I have to pull out my (very) meager supplies and set them up, but if I would be happy to make a video every now and then, just to help further the cause, and make it less intimidating for people who want to start refinishing but dont know how or where to begin.

 

Mike has definitely done a good service by putting these videos up.

[freddiec]

I might have one John , thanks for coming out of your hole :rockon:

[rex235]

Pal-

 

Freddie beat me to it, plus nearly all of my MacGregor TA 653s are LH ones.... :swoon:

 

Thanks again for the work you did in rescuing my 1958 LH2W set...

[Bella Woods]

Hi Everyone!

 

FreddieC gave me the heads up that someone mentioned old Persimmonpal.. thought I would hop on and see what was up.

 

I watched the first video, and I also read through all the comments.

 

I definitely have no business nit picking or commenting negatively on Mike's work, everyone has their own way, and hey, at least Mike is still doing refinishing. I will say this though, as a previous writer mentioned, I wouldn't ever twist a persimmon club off the shaft, without first whipping the hosel end of the head. Especially when there is still remnants of a shaft pin in there.

 

On the video, when he is twisting that head... for a 1/4 turn or so it looks like it is spinning easy, then it tightens up. Its doing that because the back pin hasn't cleared the shaft, and as he turns it, the pin is digging into the interior of the neck. With old woods, or any woods really, its extremely easy to twist a bit too hard, and then you have a hosel split from the start of the crown to the end of the head..

I would always set the head in a vice, remove thru-shaft screw, and with a 3/8" bit, drill down into the shaft until I hit the back pin. Drill through the back pin and 7 out of 10 times enough of it will pop out of the back of the neck to grab with needle nose pliers. the other three times I just use a nail punch to push the piece back into the shaft, and then drill through again. At that point if you cant grab the head of the screw, you can push it back in again, and it will usually fall down into the shaft.

 

If the back end of the screw is still through the interior of the shaft, I would change placement on the vise, and with the nail punch drive that set screw past the shaft, little by little, and then the head comes free.

Either way you do it, it should never be done without whipping the neck of the shaft REALLY tightly before removing.

 

I have so many things going on in my life I havent done a club in a long time. I want to, I just have too many other things that are taking preference. I still have bought a few nice sets that I have every intention of restoring, someday, but not any time soon.

 

I read a comment about not abrading the back of an insert.. I agree 100%.

As for epoxy, I epoxy every single screw, plate, etc, and really load it up when doing the insert. How many refinished woods have you seen where the finish is cured and hard, but split right at the seem where the insert meets the crown? thats just because the refinisher didnt epoxy it correctly, and there is no chemical bond between the insert and the head, just a physical bond (the screws). You need both.

 

I will prob watch the other videos at some point.

 

Gotta say I miss being a regular contributor.. life has gotten a bit weird for me the last 5-6 years.. Not bad, just things happen that send you off on a different course and things change. I wish I had the time to do clubs. I have a great set of TA 653T Eye O Matics that I would really love to refinish.. I am just waiting on getting the two wood, which I do not have. Anybody have a nice one out there? If I get one maybe I will refinish them and make a video series of my own, going through the process... hmmmm

 

 

In the meantime, if anyone has a question about how to do something, or would like a video of something they would llike to see, drop me a note.. I have to pull out my (very) meager supplies and set them up, but if I would be happy to make a video every now and then, just to help further the cause, and make it less intimidating for people who want to start refinishing but dont know how or where to begin.

 

Mike has definitely done a good service by putting these videos up.

 

Good to hear from you John - still working on "refinishing" classic campers?

[persimmonpal]

Hi Everyone!

 

FreddieC gave me the heads up that someone mentioned old Persimmonpal.. thought I would hop on and see what was up.

 

I watched the first video, and I also read through all the comments.

 

I definitely have no business nit picking or commenting negatively on Mike's work, everyone has their own way, and hey, at least Mike is still doing refinishing. I will say this though, as a previous writer mentioned, I wouldn't ever twist a persimmon club off the shaft, without first whipping the hosel end of the head. Especially when there is still remnants of a shaft pin in there.

 

On the video, when he is twisting that head... for a 1/4 turn or so it looks like it is spinning easy, then it tightens up. Its doing that because the back pin hasn't cleared the shaft, and as he turns it, the pin is digging into the interior of the neck. With old woods, or any woods really, its extremely easy to twist a bit too hard, and then you have a hosel split from the start of the crown to the end of the head..

I would always set the head in a vice, remove thru-shaft screw, and with a 3/8" bit, drill down into the shaft until I hit the back pin. Drill through the back pin and 7 out of 10 times enough of it will pop out of the back of the neck to grab with needle nose pliers. the other three times I just use a nail punch to push the piece back into the shaft, and then drill through again. At that point if you cant grab the head of the screw, you can push it back in again, and it will usually fall down into the shaft.

 

If the back end of the screw is still through the interior of the shaft, I would change placement on the vise, and with the nail punch drive that set screw past the shaft, little by little, and then the head comes free.

Either way you do it, it should never be done without whipping the neck of the shaft REALLY tightly before removing.

 

I have so many things going on in my life I havent done a club in a long time. I want to, I just have too many other things that are taking preference. I still have bought a few nice sets that I have every intention of restoring, someday, but not any time soon.

 

I read a comment about not abrading the back of an insert.. I agree 100%.

As for epoxy, I epoxy every single screw, plate, etc, and really load it up when doing the insert. How many refinished woods have you seen where the finish is cured and hard, but split right at the seem where the insert meets the crown? thats just because the refinisher didnt epoxy it correctly, and there is no chemical bond between the insert and the head, just a physical bond (the screws). You need both.

 

I will prob watch the other videos at some point.

 

Gotta say I miss being a regular contributor.. life has gotten a bit weird for me the last 5-6 years.. Not bad, just things happen that send you off on a different course and things change. I wish I had the time to do clubs. I have a great set of TA 653T Eye O Matics that I would really love to refinish.. I am just waiting on getting the two wood, which I do not have. Anybody have a nice one out there? If I get one maybe I will refinish them and make a video series of my own, going through the process... hmmmm

 

 

In the meantime, if anyone has a question about how to do something, or would like a video of something they would llike to see, drop me a note.. I have to pull out my (very) meager supplies and set them up, but if I would be happy to make a video every now and then, just to help further the cause, and make it less intimidating for people who want to start refinishing but dont know how or where to begin.

 

Mike has definitely done a good service by putting these videos up.

 

Good to hear from you John - still working on "refinishing" classic campers?

 

LOL.. Thats one of the things that got me away from clubs. After owning 14 pre-1970 campers in 4 years, doing 3 complete tear down and rebuilds, and having the basement, attic, etc filled to the gills with parts, my Wife put her foot down and said NO MORE! I am glad she did.. I tend to get a little bit obsessive.

Havent had any caampers in 1 1/2 yrs, now I am focused on doing original art, woodworking. I have been making amp cabinets for my Brother, who is an electronics whiz and makes tube amplifiers. I have made a few guitars, experimented with a whole bunch of other stuff. I will never stop loving the old Macs though... once I complete my set of 653's I may add that to my list of projects.

[persimmonpal]

Pal-

 

Freddie beat me to it, plus nearly all of my MacGregor TA 653s are LH ones.... :swoon:

 

Thanks again for the work you did in rescuing my 1958 LH2W set...

Thanks!

Glad you liked the clubs! Glad to be back on poking around.