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Maltby TS2


Popeye64

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19 hours ago, dhen9 said:

Had a chance to get the TS3 out today at the range. It's a better, slimmer, sleeker version of the PTM. The PTM has a progressive weight pad in the cavity. The TS3 has a similar, more visible, but at the same time "cleaner", progressive weight movement in the cavity. The topline and sole of the TS3 is cleaner and the hosel transition is also less clunky. The grooves and address position give away that she's a Maltby, especially the groove spacing. Many loved the PTM sole relief just behind the leading edge and I'm here to tell ya it's still there. They did such a nice job of hiding that tech so you clearly see a VT type sole but all angles are radiused so it's so silky. If asked I gotta believe that Britt would say he knew the TS3 was on the horizon which is why such a short run for the PTM. This iron could be a DTC HOME RUN and if Golfworks had the "Juice" they could put these in select stores GG or DSG. 

 

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18 hours ago, Therty said:

Can someone confirm I’m not crazy… the BBGM for a TS3 7i is like 0.7in? That’s it?

On the Golfworks site JimY says it is .75 inches.

 

Does anyone know what the effective measurement would be with a parallel tip?

 

Edit: just got off the phone with Jim at golfworks and the .75 measurement is for a parallel tip.

Edited by elsie451
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52 minutes ago, moorebaseball said:

I have never played a component set of clubs. If one was looking to enter the game which irons would you steer me towards? I’m currently playing Srixon ZX7s with Nippon 120x.

Maltby has a great offering of clubs I would recommend build a 6 or 7i of a club and see how it compares to your ZX7s. Have them build one with a Nippon 120X in it or do it yourself and see how they compare.

Personal recommendation would be TS1 (closer on lofts, sole), close behind are the TE (thin top line, smaller blade length, pure cavity Back, Traditional lofts) or TS3 (Similar Cavity back styling but more forgiving then ZX7)

 

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Driver:  Ben Hogan GS53
4W:  Maltby KE4 
2i: Maltby KE4 FDI 
4-PW:  Maltby TS-1  - C-Taper 120g 
50,54,58: Maltby TSW
Putter:  L.A.B. DF2.1 Accra Shaft
Ball: Mixed prefer ProV1 or Snell
Handicap: 8.8  -  Best Score: 72 (E) Springdale CC, Canton NC -2022

GolfingEngineer.com

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22 minutes ago, pozzit said:

Maltby has a great offering of clubs I would recommend build a 6 or 7i of a club and see how it compares to your ZX7s. Have them build one with a Nippon 120X in it or do it yourself and see how they compare.

Personal recommendation would be TS1 (closer on lofts, sole), close behind are the TE (thin top line, smaller blade length, pure cavity Back, Traditional lofts) or TS3 (Similar Cavity back styling but more forgiving then ZX7)

 

Agreed. Although, if you're not in a hurry, you might wait for the TS4 and TS1M to hit the street later this year to give yourself even more great options.

 

25 minutes ago, pozzit said:

If one was looking to enter the game

This comment gave me pause. I'm assuming you don't mean new to golf but new to component heads.

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2 hours ago, Popeye64 said:

Complete components sets including grips are listed in the neighborhood of $300. With some clever eBay shopping some of the top forged Maltby heads available can be grabbed for short money. 

 

 

This is what I did got a set of TS1s head and CTaper pulls of the Classifieds here all in for $265. They are great clubs. I couldn't agree more about the wedges too.

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Driver:  Ben Hogan GS53
4W:  Maltby KE4 
2i: Maltby KE4 FDI 
4-PW:  Maltby TS-1  - C-Taper 120g 
50,54,58: Maltby TSW
Putter:  L.A.B. DF2.1 Accra Shaft
Ball: Mixed prefer ProV1 or Snell
Handicap: 8.8  -  Best Score: 72 (E) Springdale CC, Canton NC -2022

GolfingEngineer.com

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3 hours ago, Popeye64 said:

The TS3 is easily the most Srixon like in the catalog. From the sole design to the forged construction. 

I built a set of ZX7s a few months back and hit them before they were shipped out. Feel is very similar. I might even give the edge to the TS3. 

Building component clubs for yourself can be extremely rewarding. Many high quality builds can be done for well less than $600. Browse the Club Paks on Golfworks site. Complete components sets including grips are listed in the neighborhood of $300. With some clever eBay shopping some of the top forged Maltby heads available can be grabbed for short money. 

A very beneficial side is the wedge department. You can swap in a fresh head every year  for a third of a new wedge cost. 

Have fun. It can be a rabbit hole though. But in a good way. 
 

I’m interested in learning more. I am in no way a club builder, and that is definitely out of my wheel house. I do really like the idea of more reasonably priced equipment. 
 

The wedges sound interesting. I guess I need to try and find a club builder. Now I’m going down the wood rabbit hole as well 😂.

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14 minutes ago, moorebaseball said:

I’m interested in learning more. I am in no way a club builder, and that is definitely out of my wheel house. I do really like the idea of more reasonably priced equipment. 
 

The wedges sound interesting. I guess I need to try and find a club builder. Now I’m going down the wood rabbit hole as well 😂.

I highly recommend some minimal tool investment and start off building some wedges. 

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3 hours ago, Popeye64 said:

I highly recommend some minimal tool investment and start off building some wedges. 

 

Good advice. Growing up, we didn't have a ton of disposable income. So my dad taught himself to build clubs we ordered from Golfsmith. Built everything from wedges to woods, with minimal tools.

 

He wasn't overly mechanical. And this was pre-internet days. Significantly easier to learn these days compared to back then.  

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I've found it quite rewarding. I've built a number of clubs over the years and I'm in no way a club builder. I'm sure I am doing plenty wrong, but they all work for me. Currently playing a set of KE4 max with Rapid Taper shafts, KE4 hybrids, max milled wedges, and a KE4 4w. I built all of them. Just finished a reshaft of my Srixon i701 irons that I'll put in play today. It can be tedious and you will make mistakes, but you will also save a good deal of money. I still look at the fancy high priced releases, but I just can't see the benefits of spending double for any perceived benefit. Maybe in the driver category only because I've never built or seen a Maltby driver. 

 

I have found at a minimum you need a good vice, shaft pulling device (DIY or commercial), torch, and a club ruler. This would get you started. I use the LGS for like adjustment as I have no desire to have a dedicated machine or build commercially. A swing weight scale would be nice but I go based on feel instead of numbers.

 

I recommend trying the KE4 max along with the TS3. Cheaper and hot damn they perform.

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39 minutes ago, elsie451 said:

Golfworks really needs to hire new IT staff. Aside from the website being borked for the past couple of weeks, I placed an order yesterday for a TS3 head and a KE4 Max head and have so far received 24 identical order confirmation emails from them. 🤦‍♂️

They probably use the ones from Dicks, you ever tried searching/using that site? Pure garbage.

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14 hours ago, moorebaseball said:

I’m interested in learning more. I am in no way a club builder, and that is definitely out of my wheel house. I do really like the idea of more reasonably priced equipment. 
 

The wedges sound interesting. I guess I need to try and find a club builder. Now I’m going down the wood rabbit hole as well 😂.

 

GW will build clubs for you, and they do fine work.

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6 hours ago, Spankapotamus redux said:

Maybe in the driver category only because I've never built or seen a Maltby driver. 

I built a KE4 driver with a Steelfiber S75 shaft a while back and it is the best driver that I have ever hit.  LOL far better then the Mizuno I paid a lot of money for from Club Champion.

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16 hours ago, moorebaseball said:

I’m interested in learning more. I am in no way a club builder, and that is definitely out of my wheel house. I do really like the idea of more reasonably priced equipment. 
 

The wedges sound interesting. I guess I need to try and find a club builder. Now I’m going down the wood rabbit hole as well 😂.

Not a problem.  I built all my Maltby clubs for about 20 years.  Got lazy and had them assemble a set last year.  They did a great job.  Had a couple wedges done this year and equally pleased.  They assemble to your specs at no charge.  You can not go wrong.  

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6 minutes ago, Klubster said:

Not a problem.  I built all my Maltby clubs for about 20 years.  Got lazy and had them assemble a set last year.  They did a great job.  Had a couple wedges done this year and equally pleased.  They assemble to your specs at no charge.  You can not go wrong.  


Another who's been very pleased with GW assembly. Hard to argue with free, built to your specs. Assuming you're buying all the components from them.

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2 minutes ago, Popeye64 said:

The short answer is no. Go with the KE4 Max and enjoy a very capable iron that has adjustable weights that are fun to tinker with. Quite frankly it's unlike any other iron head. The KE4 will do everything you ask of it. And do it well. 

The long answer will be decided over the next few months. 

There is a feel in the TS3 that is unattainable with the KE4. Looks wise the TS3 has a simple elegance. A few players think of a Miura when they held it last week. The feel certainly puts that thought in your head. The TS3 has a feel that a lot of players fall in love with. The can't wait to hit another shot feel. The.. I've gotta drop another ball to hit feel. 

I've always been a forged club snob. The urethane filled clubs have actually not given that solid forged club feel I love. Great feel but not a wow. I missed that wow feel.

Over the next few months I'll test them extensively head to head. I even plan on shaft flex experiments. 

For me the TS3 is exactly what I would have designed given a blank sheet. Maybe I would have gone another step further in the progressive cavity morphing. But not much. 

If my decision was based on dollars and cents it's not even close. KE4 and don't look back. As a purist I'm already heavily biased to the TS3. 

With a side hustle building clubs I can certainly rationalize buying the latest components. So for me I'll own both sets. 

I've done everything I can to make the KE4 something that it is not, including installation of Aerotech shafts and MCC4 grips. They're so fun and so capable. What they are not.... is the TS3. 

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41 minutes ago, wantacigar said:

@Popeye64 Question:  TS3 Pak w/Score shaft is $499.  KE4 Max is $255 w/score shaft.  Is the $245 difference going to get you that much better performance, looks, etc?

I’m one that would tell you to get the TS3 (or even the TS2) and not the max. This decision is ultimately up to you but the Max were just a bit to clunky for me.
 

I will fully admit that I’m more of a sweeper/picker and don’t take much of a divot. 

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47 minutes ago, wantacigar said:

@Popeye64 Question:  TS3 Pak w/Score shaft is $499.  KE4 Max is $255 w/score shaft.  Is the $245 difference going to get you that much better performance, looks, etc?

I get what youe asking ans @Popeye64answered it perfectly but TS3 vs most main manufacturer is $800 cheaper. 

The decision of which club is what are your preferences.  Profile, flight characteristics, feel, offset, top line, etc. Pick what fits you best.

Driver:  Ben Hogan GS53
4W:  Maltby KE4 
2i: Maltby KE4 FDI 
4-PW:  Maltby TS-1  - C-Taper 120g 
50,54,58: Maltby TSW
Putter:  L.A.B. DF2.1 Accra Shaft
Ball: Mixed prefer ProV1 or Snell
Handicap: 8.8  -  Best Score: 72 (E) Springdale CC, Canton NC -2022

GolfingEngineer.com

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