Maltby TS2

[Cwebb]

Something of note is that the TE+, TS4, and TS-IM all have the pearl finish, whereas the TS3 has a shinier "satin mirror" finish. 

 

Could make a difference in preference for a combo set

[htaolx]

So I went out and played 9 holes with the ts3 and ts1-im 7 irons that @Popeye64 sent me to demo. I currently play sub70 659cb with modus 120x shafts. I decided to play just seven irons from tees and second shots and then try and save par from wherever I ended up. Pretty fun actually. Initial thoughts have been flipped a bit.

 

On the range the butter smooth feeling of the ts3 was making me the most happy. But on the course the ts1-im just seemed to be more in the visual window I was expecting. On the course the trajectory of the ts1-im was a bit more flat and didn't balloon up like the ts3. I hit a number of balls off the toe side, some on purpose, other on accident and both clubs didn't lose much distance at all. The topline on the ts1-im is a bit more visually appealing to me. 

 

Highlight was dropping 8 balls from 190 and putting 7 of them inside of 30 ft on the green. I also really enjoyed the rapid taper shafts, they feel really solid and the weight difference from my current set wasn't that noticeable. Also the middle section of the shaft felt more like a traditional iron shaft, I kinda forgot how strange the 120x feels compared to other shafts.

 

I am currently leaning towards the ts1-im but the DBM version of the TE+ has me intrigued as well. I got a really good price on a set of modus 105x shafts so I am going to build whatever I choose with those. Hopefully they don't feel totally different from the rapid taper 105 since I liked the weight. 

 

If anyone has comments on the TE+ vs the ts1-im I am all ears. 

[iamlowsound]

12 hours ago, htaolx said:

So I went out and played 9 holes with the ts3 and ts1-im 7 irons that @Popeye64 sent me to demo. I currently play sub70 659cb with modus 120x shafts. I decided to play just seven irons from tees and second shots and then try and save par from wherever I ended up. Pretty fun actually. Initial thoughts have been flipped a bit.

 

On the range the butter smooth feeling of the ts3 was making me the most happy. But on the course the ts1-im just seemed to be more in the visual window I was expecting. On the course the trajectory of the ts1-im was a bit more flat and didn't balloon up like the ts3. I hit a number of balls off the toe side, some on purpose, other on accident and both clubs didn't lose much distance at all. The topline on the ts1-im is a bit more visually appealing to me. 

 

Highlight was dropping 8 balls from 190 and putting 7 of them inside of 30 ft on the green. I also really enjoyed the rapid taper shafts, they feel really solid and the weight difference from my current set wasn't that noticeable. Also the middle section of the shaft felt more like a traditional iron shaft, I kinda forgot how strange the 120x feels compared to other shafts.

 

I am currently leaning towards the ts1-im but the DBM version of the TE+ has me intrigued as well. I got a really good price on a set of modus 105x shafts so I am going to build whatever I choose with those. Hopefully they don't feel totally different from the rapid taper 105 since I liked the weight. 

 

If anyone has comments on the TE+ vs the ts1-im I am all ears. 

The TE+ has a lower VCOG like the TS3, the lowest two in the current offerings. So if you like the flatter flight of the TS1-IM the TE+ might not be for you. The TS1-IM has the highest VCOG of the current irons. 

[htaolx]

4 hours ago, iamlowsound said:

The TE+ has a lower VCOG like the TS3, the lowest two in the current offerings. So if you like the flatter flight of the TS1-IM the TE+ might not be for you. The TS1-IM has the highest VCOG of the current irons. 

Thanks for info. Do you think the forgiveness is similar across those 3 iron types?

[iamlowsound]

1 hour ago, htaolx said:

Thanks for info. Do you think the forgiveness is similar across those 3 iron types?

Based on the MPF they should all be similar as they are all within 100 points of each other. 

[htaolx]

Okay fourth range session with the demo 7 irons ts1-im and ts3. It was cold and with a pretty solid headwind so got to work on flighting shots. 

 

ts1-im is hands down the winner across the board for me, except maybe for the feel off the face on dead center strikes. That straight forged ts3 is really smooth. I felt much more in control of ball flight with the ts1-im. I was hitting low runners under the wind, high fades and draws. The club really performs well. Unfortunately it was all of mats so I didn't get the ground contact feedback.

 

The shafts are both rapid taper 105 S+ and the Ts3 is hard stepped per @Popeye64 . Please correct me if I am wrong. The shaft in the ts1-im felt great, which leads me to my questions.

 

I have a set of 4-PW modus 105x shafts. I want to build the ts1-im from 5-GW. I was thinking of building them soft stepped so I can use the shafts I already have and then maybe get a 95 gram shaft for a KDI FDI Tour head for a 4 iron. I would round out the bottom of the bag with a 52 DRM and a 56 DRM with the modus 115 wedge shaft.

 

If I go that route will that conceivably put me into an S+ flex since I am using the 4 shaft in the 5 head etc? 

 

Or Is it better to just buy an extra modus 105x wedge shaft and build the set down from 5-PW, GW? And then use the 4 iron shaft in the KDI FDI tour head?

 

Everything will be built 3/4 inch over standard. I am planning on trying the jumbomax ultralites in either medium or large.

[mustang]

11 hours ago, htaolx said:

Okay fourth range session with the demo 7 irons ts1-im and ts3. It was cold and with a pretty solid headwind so got to work on flighting shots. 

 

ts1-im is hands down the winner across the board for me, except maybe for the feel off the face on dead center strikes. That straight forged ts3 is really smooth. I felt much more in control of ball flight with the ts1-im. I was hitting low runners under the wind, high fades and draws. The club really performs well. Unfortunately it was all of mats so I didn't get the ground contact feedback.

 

The shafts are both rapid taper 105 S+ and the Ts3 is hard stepped per @Popeye64 . Please correct me if I am wrong. The shaft in the ts1-im felt great, which leads me to my questions.

 

I have a set of 4-PW modus 105x shafts. I want to build the ts1-im from 5-GW. I was thinking of building them soft stepped so I can use the shafts I already have and then maybe get a 95 gram shaft for a KDI FDI Tour head for a 4 iron. I would round out the bottom of the bag with a 52 DRM and a 56 DRM with the modus 115 wedge shaft.

 

If I go that route will that conceivably put me into an S+ flex since I am using the 4 shaft in the 5 head etc? 

 

Or Is it better to just buy an extra modus 105x wedge shaft and build the set down from 5-PW, GW? And then use the 4 iron shaft in the KDI FDI tour head?

 

Everything will be built 3/4 inch over standard. I am planning on trying the jumbomax ultralites in either medium or large.

Be aware that the bottom bore to ground measurement will affect the flex.  Refer to CWEBB on this as he has it quantified quite well.   You may need to soft step 1.5 to 2.0 to get your desired result...

[iamlowsound]

11 hours ago, htaolx said:

Okay fourth range session with the demo 7 irons ts1-im and ts3. It was cold and with a pretty solid headwind so got to work on flighting shots. 

 

ts1-im is hands down the winner across the board for me, except maybe for the feel off the face on dead center strikes. That straight forged ts3 is really smooth. I felt much more in control of ball flight with the ts1-im. I was hitting low runners under the wind, high fades and draws. The club really performs well. Unfortunately it was all of mats so I didn't get the ground contact feedback.

 

The shafts are both rapid taper 105 S+ and the Ts3 is hard stepped per @Popeye64 . Please correct me if I am wrong. The shaft in the ts1-im felt great, which leads me to my questions.

 

I have a set of 4-PW modus 105x shafts. I want to build the ts1-im from 5-GW. I was thinking of building them soft stepped so I can use the shafts I already have and then maybe get a 95 gram shaft for a KDI FDI Tour head for a 4 iron. I would round out the bottom of the bag with a 52 DRM and a 56 DRM with the modus 115 wedge shaft.

 

If I go that route will that conceivably put me into an S+ flex since I am using the 4 shaft in the 5 head etc? 

 

Or Is it better to just buy an extra modus 105x wedge shaft and build the set down from 5-PW, GW? And then use the 4 iron shaft in the KDI FDI tour head?

 

Everything will be built 3/4 inch over standard. I am planning on trying the jumbomax ultralites in either medium or large.

Putting the four iron head in the five iron would be softening the flex, so yeah it would be somewhere between an S and X flex. If you need the xstiff I'd just buy an extra wedge shaft. 

[htaolx]

Another thought is just getting the club pak from maltby since it is so cheap. I would assume the shaft profile of the score LT is nothing like what I am used to but it is like 50 bucks extra for a made up set. Can you request a stiff plus build from Golfworks? 

[Popeye64]

26 minutes ago, htaolx said:

Another thought is just getting the club pak from maltby since it is so cheap. I would assume the shaft profile of the score LT is nothing like what I am used to but it is like 50 bucks extra for a made up set. Can you request a stiff plus build from Golfworks? 

Check with the custom shop on that request, but I've seen multiple writings were Gofworks warns against over trimming of the Score LT shaft. 

[Cwebb]

40 minutes ago, htaolx said:

Another thought is just getting the club pak from maltby since it is so cheap. I would assume the shaft profile of the score LT is nothing like what I am used to but it is like 50 bucks extra for a made up set. Can you request a stiff plus build from Golfworks? 

 

FST 125 "S/X" trimmed to 'X'

[htaolx]

41 minutes ago, Cwebb said:

 

FST 125 "S/X" trimmed to 'X'

Thanks, is that a club pak offering? I am not familiar.

 

edit: just searched on golfworks site. I am assuming if I contact them they will do that.

 

You think that is a decent shaft to test the clubheads with.

 

edit 2: how about the 115 FST shaft trimmed to X so I have the slightly lower weight, a bit closer to the 105 Rapid Taper I tested?

Edited October 27, 2023 by htaolx

[Cwebb]

30 minutes ago, htaolx said:

Thanks, is that a club pak offering? I am not familiar.

 

edit: just searched on golfworks site. I am assuming if I contact them they will do that.

 

You think that is a decent shaft to test the clubheads with.

 

edit 2: how about the 115 FST shaft trimmed to X so I have the slightly lower weight, a bit closer to the 105 Rapid Taper I tested?

 

I haven't worked with the Rapid Taper, so no idea of how it's bend profile measures.

 

The FST 115 has a softer bend profile than the 125, so you can't really get close to what I consider a true "S+", even with max tipping.  Doesn't mean than it couldn't be good shaft for you....I don't know.

 

As far as weight, the Nippon Modus 105 'X' that you mentioned is a constant weight design that has an actual weight spec of 112 grams for each "discreet" shaft.   The FST 125 will not be much more than that overall for the set, once trimmed to their lengths from the single 43" blanks.

 

I always suggest trying at least one test club, before committing to a set

[htaolx]

1 hour ago, Cwebb said:

 

I haven't worked with the Rapid Taper, so no idea of how it's bend profile measures.

 

The FST 115 has a softer bend profile than the 125, so you can't really get close to what I consider a true "S+", even with max tipping.  Doesn't mean than it couldn't be good shaft for you....I don't know.

 

As far as weight, the Nippon Modus 105 'X' that you mentioned is a constant weight design that has an actual weight spec of 112 grams for each "discreet" shaft.   The FST 125 will not be much more than that overall for the set, once trimmed to their lengths from the single 43" blanks.

 

I always suggest trying at least one test club, before committing to a set

 

Thanks for all this info, very helpful.

[Vince24L]

Months ago I switched from Mizuno JPX 900 Hot Metals with Nippon Modus pro 105's to TE DBM's with Recoil shafts with plenty of lead tape. I'm giving up on the DBMs. The leading edge is too sharp and anything other than a sweep shot is stuck in the mud. On top of that, I messed up and went too light on the shaft causing my arms to be way ahead of my body causing major hooks. 

 

The new TE+ is intriguing to me. It seems to fix any issues I had with the TEs. My concern is, am I able to feel where the club face is with the Mizunos better because of their head weight or the shaft weight? I can't seem to figure out the weight difference of the Hot Metals to the DBM's to know which it is.

 

also, is there any way to get the Score shafts to be similar to the Modus 105's? Are they too far off to be able to even compare the two?

 

I appreciate the help.

[Cwebb]

30 minutes ago, Vince24L said:

Months ago I switched from Mizuno JPX 900 Hot Metals with Nippon Modus pro 105's to TE DBM's with Recoil shafts with plenty of lead tape. I'm giving up on the DBMs. The leading edge is too sharp and anything other than a sweep shot is stuck in the mud. On top of that, I messed up and went too light on the shaft causing my arms to be way ahead of my body causing major hooks. 

 

The new TE+ is intriguing to me. It seems to fix any issues I had with the TEs. My concern is, am I able to feel where the club face is with the Mizunos better because of their head weight or the shaft weight? I can't seem to figure out the weight difference of the Hot Metals to the DBM's to know which it is.

 

also, is there any way to get the Score shafts to be similar to the Modus 105's? Are they too far off to be able to even compare the two?

 

I appreciate the help.

 

There's only a few things that can produce a head that plays heavier...

 

A head with an actual heavier gram weight.  A heavier shaft and/or one with lower balance point.  A longer finished length.

 

Outside of any very short builds, any Maltby head should be able to be built to whatever heavier weight you want

[biglefthander]

Just received a set of STi2s built through the xlub pak for my dad - very satisfied with the assembly work - ordered them -1/2" (so standard steel length) and D2 swingweight and they came in right on the money for both 👍

[Spinozist]

On 10/25/2023 at 2:50 PM, ApostateDrive said:

 

No kidding, I thought they were kinda ugly in the site pics, but they're pretty stunning! This pic in particular is giving me the flutters. 

 

Those look really good to my eye.

[golfschnell]

I absolutely love my Ts1-Ms, but many have commented on the pearl finish, just want folks to know that the finish does mar pretty easily, particularly on the back side from bag chatter, It doesn’t bother me and isn’t really noticeable except when light hits it, but those looking for jewels not tools might want to take pause.

[CyFan]

55 minutes ago, golfschnell said:

I absolutely love my Ts1-Ms, but many have commented on the pearl finish, just want folks to know that the finish does mar pretty easily, particularly on the back side from bag chatter, It doesn’t bother me and isn’t really noticeable except when light hits it, but those looking for jewels not tools might want to take pause.

Any thoughts on if they will lightly polish over time?  Or with a light buffing?

[golfschnell]

I don’t know for sure but the finish is more of a coating and not a true satin finish steel, more like the black finish you find on Taylormade P790. Polishing would basically remove the finish. Like I said it doesn’t bother me, but some folks on this site would probably lose their shite.😂

[Bryceslu]

On 10/27/2023 at 2:35 PM, Cwebb said:

 

I haven't worked with the Rapid Taper, so no idea of how it's bend profile measures.

 

The FST 115 has a softer bend profile than the 125, so you can't really get close to what I consider a true "S+", even with max tipping.  Doesn't mean than it couldn't be good shaft for you....I don't know.

 

As far as weight, the Nippon Modus 105 'X' that you mentioned is a constant weight design that has an actual weight spec of 112 grams for each "discreet" shaft.   The FST 125 will not be much more than that overall for the set, once trimmed to their lengths from the single 43" blanks.

 

I always suggest trying at least one test club, before committing to a set

What is your thoughts on constant weight vs progressive weight (ie FSTs)? I’ve always played constant weight and not sure how I feel about playing a lighter weight shaft in my irons that I want to be most precise with. 
I am thinking you would want a heavy/heavier shaft in your short irons/wedge for more being more precise and lighter shaft in long irons to help swing speed. 

[Cwebb]

1 hour ago, Bryceslu said:

What is your thoughts on constant weight vs progressive weight (ie FSTs)? I’ve always played constant weight and not sure how I feel about playing a lighter weight shaft in my irons that I want to be most precise with. 
I am thinking you would want a heavy/heavier shaft in your short irons/wedge for more being more precise and lighter shaft in long irons to help swing speed. 

It's another variable that each player has to test and figure out.  The weight and balance of the club can make or break the performance, regardless of how good of a fit the head design is.

 

Best way to find out, is detailed impact pattern testing on the face...while monitoring ball flight and dispersion. 

[htaolx]

Another range session with the two irons and I am going to be building the set with the ts1-im over the ts3. It was even colder this go round, there were only 2 others on the ranges and they had good sticks and good swings, the fair-weather golfers are long gone at this point. We have 6 inches of snow today but the weather warms back up so I am going to be able get one more 9 hole round on Wednesday and play both 7 irons all over the course just for a bit more validation. 

 

I really got used to the feel off the face from the ts1-im, at first it was almost off putting compared to the traditional forged feeling of the ts-3. But after 10 buckets of balls I think it feels nice and just muted. A pure shot feels a bit better on the ts-3 but man the flight on the ts1-im is just as I want. Flighting the ball down and up and left and right was accomplished easily. (I am nearly a tour pro on the range, put me on the course and all hell breaks loose ;) 

 

I really like topline view more on the ts1-im, less bulky. Both clubs are a bit longer heel to toe than I am used to but that actually inspires confidence. I can start missing toe side, so having more over there isn't a bad thing.

 

How does everyone that plays the ts1-im like the 4 iron in the set? I have a larger utility iron as my 4 in my current set and considering the ke4 Tour FDI instead of the 4 in the ts1-im set.

 

My few questions for the club builders:

 

The 4 iron in the set is 22 degrees, if I were to switch to the KE4 Tour FDI the H4 is 23 degrees, does the longer playing length equal out on distance on the one degree difference between the clubs? Or would you bend that club to 22 degrees? Does 1 degree even matter?

 

On the build side is there a standard set of tip weights all you club builders buy? When I go to golfworks it looks like I can pick a gram weight 2, 4, 6, 8 etc. I don't know what I need until I have stuff here so wouldn't a package that has a smattering of these tip weights make the most sense?

[Popeye64]

21 minutes ago, htaolx said:

Another range session with the two irons and I am going to be building the set with the ts1-im over the ts3. It was even colder this go round, there were only 2 others on the ranges and they had good sticks and good swings, the fair-weather golfers are long gone at this point. We have 6 inches of snow today but the weather warms back up so I am going to be able get one more 9 hole round on Wednesday and play both 7 irons all over the course just for a bit more validation. 

 

I really got used to the feel off the face from the ts1-im, at first it was almost off putting compared to the traditional forged feeling of the ts-3. But after 10 buckets of balls I think it feels nice and just muted. A pure shot feels a bit better on the ts-3 but man the flight on the ts1-im is just as I want. Flighting the ball down and up and left and right was accomplished easily. (I am nearly a tour pro on the range, put me on the course and all hell breaks loose 😉

 

I really like topline view more on the ts1-im, less bulky. Both clubs are a bit longer heel to toe than I am used to but that actually inspires confidence. I can start missing toe side, so having more over there isn't a bad thing.

 

How does everyone that plays the ts1-im like the 4 iron in the set? I have a larger utility iron as my 4 in my current set and considering the ke4 Tour FDI instead of the 4 in the ts1-im set.

 

My few questions for the club builders:

 

The 4 iron in the set is 22 degrees, if I were to switch to the KE4 Tour FDI the H4 is 23 degrees, does the longer playing length equal out on distance on the one degree difference between the clubs? Or would you bend that club to 22 degrees? Does 1 degree even matter?

 

On the build side is there a standard set of tip weights all you club builders buy? When I go to golfworks it looks like I can pick a gram weight 2, 4, 6, 8 etc. I don't know what I need until I have stuff here so wouldn't a package that has a smattering of these tip weights make the most sense?

When you are only talking about 1 degree in a long iron, strike quality is the biggest factor. 1 degree one way or the other isn't going to make a difference. If it does, then those players should think about turning pro. You want to be using a head that is going to give you the most consistent strike and flight. Which will you have the most confidence in whatever its shape or intended person. It may even be a fairway for that matter.

So far most everyone has loved the 4 iron in the TS1-IM. It's easy to hit and surprises most players on how playable it can be.

The tip weights can be bought as in shaft specific. Iron vs Graphite. The diameter of the shank part of the weight being smaller for graphite. If you buy a pack of 8g lead tip weights they are super easy to trim down as you are dialing in a swing weight. What you can't really do is make them heavier. The increase in cost in buying all 8g weights is minor. So most all of my various tip weights are bigger than I need. Trim as I see fit. 

[htaolx]

54 minutes ago, Popeye64 said:

When you are only talking about 1 degree in a long iron, strike quality is the biggest factor. 1 degree one way or the other isn't going to make a difference. If it does, then those players should think about turning pro. You want to be using a head that is going to give you the most consistent strike and flight. Which will you have the most confidence in whatever its shape or intended person. It may even be a fairway for that matter.

So far most everyone has loved the 4 iron in the TS1-IM. It's easy to hit and surprises most players on how playable it can be.

The tip weights can be bought as in shaft specific. Iron vs Graphite. The diameter of the shank part of the weight being smaller for graphite. If you buy a pack of 8g lead tip weights they are super easy to trim down as you are dialing in a swing weight. What you can't really do is make them heavier. The increase in cost in buying all 8g weights is minor. So most all of my various tip weights are bigger than I need. Trim as I see fit. 

 

I figured as much on the 4 iron degrees, Thanks for the info again, you guys have been great in helping me figure this out. I will go ahead and build with the 4 iron in the set. Makes sense on the 8 gram.

 

In terms of tools needed to build out the set, I was going to buy this swingweight scale: https://swingw.com/shop/p/simple-swingweight-xl-tpcek.

 

I have a metal cutoff chopsaw and a small 1 inch belt sander so the shaft prep should be pretty straightforward. I just recently redid my scotty cameron newport shaft and the head hasn't fallen off yet so success I guess. If there are any other tips and tricks I am all ears. I have been regripping my golf clubs forever.

 

Does golfworks ever have any black friday or christmas sales on clubheads, grips etc. or is the price the price generally?

 

 

[JimmyC59]

1 hour ago, htaolx said:

(I am nearly a tour pro on the range, put me on the course and all hell breaks loose ;) 

 

 

Too funny.

In my case, my practice swing is near tour pro quality, put a ball down?

Not so much!

[ericft]

3 hours ago, htaolx said:

Another range session with the two irons and I am going to be building the set with the ts1-im over the ts3. It was even colder this go round, there were only 2 others on the ranges and they had good sticks and good swings, the fair-weather golfers are long gone at this point. We have 6 inches of snow today but the weather warms back up so I am going to be able get one more 9 hole round on Wednesday and play both 7 irons all over the course just for a bit more validation. 

 

I really got used to the feel off the face from the ts1-im, at first it was almost off putting compared to the traditional forged feeling of the ts-3. But after 10 buckets of balls I think it feels nice and just muted. A pure shot feels a bit better on the ts-3 but man the flight on the ts1-im is just as I want. Flighting the ball down and up and left and right was accomplished easily. (I am nearly a tour pro on the range, put me on the course and all hell breaks loose 😉

 

I really like topline view more on the ts1-im, less bulky. Both clubs are a bit longer heel to toe than I am used to but that actually inspires confidence. I can start missing toe side, so having more over there isn't a bad thing.

 

How does everyone that plays the ts1-im like the 4 iron in the set? I have a larger utility iron as my 4 in my current set and considering the ke4 Tour FDI instead of the 4 in the ts1-im set.

 

My few questions for the club builders:

 

The 4 iron in the set is 22 degrees, if I were to switch to the KE4 Tour FDI the H4 is 23 degrees, does the longer playing length equal out on distance on the one degree difference between the clubs? Or would you bend that club to 22 degrees? Does 1 degree even matter?

 

On the build side is there a standard set of tip weights all you club builders buy? When I go to golfworks it looks like I can pick a gram weight 2, 4, 6, 8 etc. I don't know what I need until I have stuff here so wouldn't a package that has a smattering of these tip weights make the most sense?

Was your range time hitting off mats or ground? How was sole interaction on turf? I am shallow with min aoa so thicker sole irons don’t work well for me. Just about to list my t150/200 combo for that reason. I was debating between ts4 and ts1m but like thought of more tech forgiveness in the latter. But interested in sole interaction. Hit best golf with iblades as a reference. 

[Klubster]

2 hours ago, htaolx said:

 

 

In terms of tools needed to build out the set, I was going to buy this swingweight scale: https://swingw.com/shop/p/simple-swingweight-xl-tpcek.

 

 

 

Personally, that does not seem too simple.  The direct read scales would be a lot quicker and easier.  The economy swingweight scale from Golfworks is not that much more and works well for home use.

[htaolx]

2 hours ago, ericft said:

Was your range time hitting off mats or ground? How was sole interaction on turf? I am shallow with min aoa so thicker sole irons don’t work well for me. Just about to list my t150/200 combo for that reason. I was debating between ts4 and ts1m but like thought of more tech forgiveness in the latter. But interested in sole interaction. Hit best golf with iblades as a reference. 

 

Mainly mats, I was sneaking a few off the turf in front of me as well. Turf interaction was good, the ts1-im looks like it has a bit more radiused sole so the front edge doesn't seem as sharp as the ts3, but that is just visually to me. Don't know the actual specs.

 

When I played last week on the course turf interaction was fine for both. Visually the ts1-im has a much more traditional sole width from the blade type irons I played along time ago when I was good at golf. I also like the radius look of the sole more on the ts1-im, but both were fine with turf. The t1-im looked like a 125% sized blade from back in the day, like my recollections of old Titleist and Mizuno clubs. The ts3 has a lot more size behind the topline, and the sole is wider, which i don't like as much. The main thing I liked was a bit flatter trajectory from the ts1-im.

 

I have a typical aoa, don't know the specific numbers but they would be in the range of what someone would be trying to do. I hit ball and then solid divot, I'm not a sweeper or a digger. On Wednesday when I play again, I will go steep and shallow and see what happens on shots and get  back to you.