Maltby TS2

[Tupperwolf]

Ok, so...

 

40yo. Don't play much golf anymore since having our daughter just under 3 years ago. I was a 10cap at a private club and quit the club to save money.

 

After having the kid I sold off most of my clubs and kept one set I had built myself, some Cobra blades with Elevate Tour 95 VSS shafts.  I really like the clubs and the shafts are comfortable as well, I built them because I was having tennis elbow at the time, I've never had a shaft fitting but have always played S300s my whole life so I'm used to that feel.

 

Looking to have some TS3s built but I just can't decide on the shafts. Do I stick with S300, try AMT blacks?  The new DG Mid shafts? Or go Aldila NV graphite S/90g for the same price as S300s?

 

I want something forgiving since I don't have time to practice and play a lot anymore. I prefer a ball flight that's mid to high and my usual miss is towards the toe.  I'd really appreciate a shaft suggestion - thanks!

[Tupperwolf]

1 hour ago, Tupperwolf said:

Ok, so...

 

40yo. Don't play much golf anymore since having our daughter just under 3 years ago. I was a 10cap at a private club and quit the club to save money.

 

After having the kid I sold off most of my clubs and kept one set I had built myself, some Cobra blades with Elevate Tour 95 VSS shafts.  I really like the clubs and the shafts are comfortable as well, I built them because I was having tennis elbow at the time, I've never had a shaft fitting but have always played S300s my whole life so I'm used to that feel.

 

Looking to have some TS3s built but I just can't decide on the shafts. Do I stick with S300, try AMT blacks?  The new DG Mid shafts? Or go Aldila NV graphite S/90g for the same price as S300s?

 

I want something forgiving since I don't have time to practice and play a lot anymore. I prefer a ball flight that's mid to high and my usual miss is towards the toe.  I'd really appreciate a shaft suggestion - thanks!

Fwiw I'm doing a bit more reading and the recent talk of hooking these irons has me a little spooked, as that would be my directional miss these days (strike miss toe, swing fault too far inside causing a hook) I'm wondering if the TE+ might be a better overall iron since any of these clubs is going to be easier to hit than my current blades. Here's the MPF data for them fwiw 😂

 

As a bonus the TE+ look a little more compact?

[Colej]

3 hours ago, Tupperwolf said:

Fwiw I'm doing a bit more reading and the recent talk of hooking these irons has me a little spooked, as that would be my directional miss these days (strike miss toe, swing fault too far inside causing a hook) I'm wondering if the TE+ might be a better overall iron since any of these clubs is going to be easier to hit than my current blades. Here's the MPF data for them fwiw 😂

 

As a bonus the TE+ look a little more compact?

Iron heads do not hook the ball due to design. To upright (RH golfer) could cause them to go on a more left line but much more goes into why the ball went left and keeps heading left. 
 

personally I couldn’t make the TS3 work it was high and spinny for me. The TS2 at that time stayed in the bag. Now I’m rocking the TS4 and couldn’t be happier. 
 

if you like the look of a more compact head then go with the TE+ 

[runpuddrun]

14 hours ago, Popeye64 said:

Get them on the phone. Sometimes these paks get held up for ridiculous reasons. You should be able to talk to customer service and see what the hold is. Then adjust the order to get it released. 

xstiff shafts are on backorder and they wont fulfill it until they're all in stock, for whatever reason. 

[Tupperwolf]

8 hours ago, Colej said:

Iron heads do not hook the ball due to design. To upright (RH golfer) could cause them to go on a more left line but much more goes into why the ball went left and keeps heading left. 
 

personally I couldn’t make the TS3 work it was high and spinny for me. The TS2 at that time stayed in the bag. Now I’m rocking the TS4 and couldn’t be happier. 
 

if you like the look of a more compact head then go with the TE+ 

Yeah, you're right.  I know that, thanks for the reminder!

I have been thinking about it and I think I will probably go for a combo set.  TE+ 4-7 and DB4 8-GW.  I prefer a more compact head, and any of these will be so much more forgiving than the blades I'm playing that I might as well stick with that - too long of a blade length and I can get sloppy.

 

Now I'm just researching shafts - I'd like to try graphite but I'm not sure about the +0.5" required - and that would actually give me a more upright face, so I'd have to request them a degree flat or so.

 

The struggle is looking at graphite shafts and wanting to spend $60 on Mitsubishi MMTs, but then having all these other questions as a first time graphite irons user and not being sure of their worth being double a steel shaft!  A nice built set is only $705, whereas MMTs brings them up to $950.  I'm not sure Aldila NV's will be "good enough" to switch...  I'm a head case haha

[deepred]

18 minutes ago, Tupperwolf said:

Yeah, you're right.  I know that, thanks for the reminder!

I have been thinking about it and I think I will probably go for a combo set.  TE+ 4-7 and DB4 8-GW.  I prefer a more compact head, and any of these will be so much more forgiving than the blades I'm playing that I might as well stick with that - too long of a blade length and I can get sloppy.

 

Now I'm just researching shafts - I'd like to try graphite but I'm not sure about the +0.5" required - and that would actually give me a more upright face, so I'd have to request them a degree flat or so.

 

The struggle is looking at graphite shafts and wanting to spend $60 on Mitsubishi MMTs, but then having all these other questions as a first time graphite irons user and not being sure of their worth being double a steel shaft!  A nice built set is only $705, whereas MMTs brings them up to $950.  I'm not sure Aldila NV's will be "good enough" to switch...  I'm a head case haha

The NV is pretty stiff compared to most modern graphite shafts, at least in Stiff flex. I recommend it to people switching from DG. It is a value and availability in different weights is a plus. 

[Ger21]

51 minutes ago, Tupperwolf said:

Now I'm just researching shafts - I'd like to try graphite but I'm not sure about the +0.5" required

Nothing requires you to add 0.5" when playing graphite.

[mynameisntshawn]

27 minutes ago, Ger21 said:

Nothing requires you to add 0.5" when playing graphite.

No I heard the cops come by and check

[Colej]

1 hour ago, Tupperwolf said:

Yeah, you're right.  I know that, thanks for the reminder!

I have been thinking about it and I think I will probably go for a combo set.  TE+ 4-7 and DB4 8-GW.  I prefer a more compact head, and any of these will be so much more forgiving than the blades I'm playing that I might as well stick with that - too long of a blade length and I can get sloppy.

 

Now I'm just researching shafts - I'd like to try graphite but I'm not sure about the +0.5" required - and that would actually give me a more upright face, so I'd have to request them a degree flat or so.

 

The struggle is looking at graphite shafts and wanting to spend $60 on Mitsubishi MMTs, but then having all these other questions as a first time graphite irons user and not being sure of their worth being double a steel shaft!  A nice built set is only $705, whereas MMTs brings them up to $950.  I'm not sure Aldila NV's will be "good enough" to switch...  I'm a head case haha

All of these upper line graphite shafts don’t need to be built 1/2” over maintain swing weight. ESPECIALLY if you’re using MMT 105 shafts. 
 

If you’re having golfworks build them spec out exactly what you want and they’ll typically do an excellent job of meeting your needs. 

[mustang]

15 hours ago, Tupperwolf said:

Ok, so...

 

40yo. Don't play much golf anymore since having our daughter just under 3 years ago. I was a 10cap at a private club and quit the club to save money.

 

After having the kid I sold off most of my clubs and kept one set I had built myself, some Cobra blades with Elevate Tour 95 VSS shafts.  I really like the clubs and the shafts are comfortable as well, I built them because I was having tennis elbow at the time, I've never had a shaft fitting but have always played S300s my whole life so I'm used to that feel.

 

Looking to have some TS3s built but I just can't decide on the shafts. Do I stick with S300, try AMT blacks?  The new DG Mid shafts? Or go Aldila NV graphite S/90g for the same price as S300s?

 

I want something forgiving since I don't have time to practice and play a lot anymore. I prefer a ball flight that's mid to high and my usual miss is towards the toe.  I'd really appreciate a shaft suggestion - thanks!

Graphite and don't look back IMO.   Don't sleep on the Maltby MPF or Rapport Core Blue...  Check the profiles.   I have Aldila NV and they are solid.  I had Rapport and liked them more.  Better feel and kick IMO while still maintaining dispersion..

 

YOu can get heavier Aldila- My set is 75 gram in 5-6 iron,  85 gram in 7-8-9, 95 gram in GW/PW

 

Good luck with your build.  I play the TS-3 and have played many irons.. they are great

[mustang]

1 hour ago, Ger21 said:

Nothing requires you to add 0.5" when playing graphite.

THIS!   I go standard w/ all mine.   

[Tupperwolf]

Great info everyone, thanks!

[Tupperwolf]

Just pulled the trigger, 5-7 TE+ and 8-GW in TE4, all DBM black, with Aldila 95S shafts logo down, white striped ferrules and Lamkin patriot grips!  Standard steel length (selected 1/2" short and left a note) and requested D2 swing weight down to D3 in the wedges. decided to save a little cash by omitting the 4i, as I can always have one built later, and I have a couple of options as far as that part of the bag goes.  Still came in under $800 with tax and 2day ship. Can't wait to get them!

Edited July 2 by Tupperwolf

[Colej]

9 hours ago, Tupperwolf said:

Just pulled the trigger, 5-7 TE+ and 8-GW in TE4, all DBM black, with Aldila 95S shafts logo down, white striped ferrules and Lamkin patriot grips!  Standard steel length (selected 1/2" short and left a note) and requested D2 swing weight down to D3 in the wedges. decided to save a little cash by omitting the 4i, as I can always have one built later, and I have a couple of options as far as that part of the bag goes.  Still came in under $800 with tax and 2day ship. Can't wait to get them!

Did you phone in the order or did you place on the website? I know that they’re extremely busy with builds so hopefully you won’t wait long. 

we will be waiting patiently on your review 😁

 

Edited July 2 by Colej

[Popeye64]

@Tupperwolf when building graphite iron shafts, the graphite shafts do not swing weight out like the iron shafts. Most builds require tip weights to maintain D2 build weights. Even going +1/2" natually leaves a graphite build with a lower swing weight. Swing weight is nothing more than the balance point of the club. A heavier tip area increases swing weight. As a heavier grip reduces swing weight. 

Look up any OEM iron specs. Steel will be in the D2 range. Graphite is almost always D0. 

During construction of a graphite shaft you can only go so thick with the tip material. So having a tip section that carries enough weight can be tough. This is why many graphite shafts weight far less than a steel shaft. Controlling tip weight isn't an issue with steel as the wall thickness leaves plenty of room to go thicker in the design phase. You could construct an iron shaft to be very tip heavy.  

So I don't know this for certain but I assume graphite grew to +1/2" to combat swing weight loss. 

When the Rapid Taper shaft was being developed at heavier weights, 105g proved to be the maximum weight possible.  Anything heavier would have had a tip section that was near solid. As they are now, the tip must be drilled out a bit to accept a tip weight. 

Some.of the MMT shafts that have multiple materials swing weight out like a steel shaft. They are constructed with heavier tip sections. 

Hope this helps and made sense. 

[runpuddrun]

43 minutes ago, Popeye64 said:

@Tupperwolf when building graphite iron shafts, the graphite shafts do not swing weight out like the iron shafts. Most builds require tip weights to maintain D2 build weights. Even going +1/2" natually leaves a graphite build with a lower swing weight. Swing weight is nothing more than the balance point of the club. A heavier tip area increases swing weight. As a heavier grip reduces swing weight. 

Look up any OEM iron specs. Steel will be in the D2 range. Graphite is almost always D0. 

During construction of a graphite shaft you can only go so thick with the tip material. So having a tip section that carries enough weight can be tough. This is why many graphite shafts weight far less than a steel shaft. Controlling tip weight isn't an issue with steel as the wall thickness leaves plenty of room to go thicker in the design phase. You could construct an iron shaft to be very tip heavy.  

So I don't know this for certain but I assume graphite grew to +1/2" to combat swing weight loss. 

When the Rapid Taper shaft was being developed at heavier weights, 105g proved to be the maximum weight possible.  Anything heavier would have had a tip section that was near solid. As they are now, the tip must be drilled out a bit to accept a tip weight. 

Some.of the MMT shafts that have multiple materials swing weight out like a steel shaft. They are constructed with heavier tip sections. 

Hope this helps and made sense. 

I was going to add that MMT are usually heavier SW than steel. Mine always have been. 

[wantacigar]

I'm looking at the DBM TS3's coming from the PXG 0211 XCor2 with MMT 70 R.  If I get the TS3 6-G it comes out to $200 more than if I get the Aldila NV.  Does anyone have any reference as to the difference between the 2 or if the NV is even comparable?

 

Or 5-GW Pak (TS3 DBM) with the Pro Series + for $20 more than the Custom NV 6-GW.  

 

"I'm Soooo Confused!"

 

Edit:  Or wait for the TS3.5?

Edited July 2 by wantacigar

[Thayneil]

22 hours ago, runpuddrun said:

xstiff shafts are on backorder and they wont fulfill it until they're all in stock, for whatever reason. 

Packs are cheaper

[imagine29028]

2 hours ago, wantacigar said:

I'm looking at the DBM TS3's coming from the PXG 0211 XCor2 with MMT 70 R.  If I get the TS3 6-G it comes out to $200 more than if I get the Aldila NV.  Does anyone have any reference as to the difference between the 2 or if the NV is even comparable?

 

Or 5-GW Pak (TS3 DBM) with the Pro Series + for $20 more than the Custom NV 6-GW.  

 

"I'm Soooo Confused!"

 

Edit:  Or wait for the TS3.5?

Both shafts are $30....you're getting 1 more club in the Pak vs. Custom. 

[azgreg]

On 6/30/2025 at 9:41 AM, Klubster said:

Anyone having trouble with this thread not displaying?

The whole forum has been buggy to me.

 

[Tupperwolf]

12 hours ago, Colej said:

Did you phone in the order or did you place on the website? I know that they’re extremely busy with builds so hopefully you won’t wait long. 

we will be waiting patiently on your review 😁

 

Placed through the website.

 

I'm not playing a lot these days, and I'm out of town for a few days for the holiday weekend, so I can wait.  Only tee time I have set is on the 19th so hope they come before then 🙂

[Ize]

I ordered the sti2 gen 2 pack with the score LT shaft, I was going to build them myself but decided I was too busy and for the price I would just get golfworks to assemble.

 

Kinda regret it now as it's been 10 days and I haven't heard anything, only saving grace is I'm still offshore working for another 2 weeks so can't play anyway.

[imagine29028]

Is there a list of fitters around the country that carry and fit Maltby clubs? Or is it strictly the OH HQ location? 

[wantacigar]

2 hours ago, imagine29028 said:

Is there a list of fitters around the country that carry and fit Maltby clubs? Or is it strictly the OH HQ location? 

There are a few.  Some have YT channels as well.  Such as EliteFitGolf / mobile clubmaker.  I think he's in Decatur, GA.  You can do a YT search "Maltby" and some come up.

Edited July 3 by wantacigar

[iamlowsound]

This season I've come to the realization that I don't hit my long irons well enough to reach my target handicap. I hit them well enough to be a 15 handicap but not a 5, and I don't have the time to get them there. I've been loving my seven wood and I hit it 220-230 on a full swing and 200 if I grip it down at the bottom of the grip. I've found myself wishing to have something easier to hit in that 200 yard full swing range that I can grip down and take 10-15 yards off of. If I can hit my 4i good 4/10 times, I hit my seven wood good 9/10 times.

 

This has lead me to look at some hybrids and the KE4 Pro TC IST has caught my eye. I really like the look and I think a 23° would slot into my bag really well, replacing my original TS1 4i. I realize that a 23° hybrid it would go further than a 22.5° iron, but I'm okay with that as I'm very comfortable gripping down and hitting a 3/4 swing with every club in my bag and I think the extra distance would be helpful at times. 

 

What is the general consensus on the KE4 Pro TC IST?

Is it better than the older KE4 TC?

Does it launch high and land soft?

Easy to hit from deep rough? 

Forgiving? I'm not looking for ultimate forgiveness, but something that is easier to hit than a long iron. 

[bm303]

Friend is very new to the game, helping him build a bag. Shoots around 105-110. 

How about the Maltby Ke4 MAX pack + MAX wedge pack in R flex SCORE steel shafts? 

[imagine29028]

2 hours ago, iamlowsound said:

This has lead me to look at some hybrids and the KE4 Pro TC IST has caught my eye. I really like the look and I think a 23° would slot into my bag really well, replacing my original TS1 4i. I realize that a 23° hybrid it would go further than a 22.5° iron, but I'm okay with that as I'm very comfortable gripping down and hitting a 3/4 swing with every club in my bag and I think the extra distance would be helpful at times. 

 

What is the general consensus on the KE4 Pro TC IST?

Is it better than the older KE4 TC?

Does it launch high and land soft?

Easy to hit from deep rough? 

Forgiving? I'm not looking for ultimate forgiveness, but something that is easier to hit than a long iron. 

I have the 4hy (23 degree) with the Maltby Pro Series+ shaft with a midsize grip. I love it, looks great, performs well out of the rough and off the fairway. I think with shipping and assembly it was $120? Really hard to beat, IMO.

[Popeye64]

5 hours ago, bm303 said:

Friend is very new to the game, helping him build a bag. Shoots around 105-110. 

How about the Maltby Ke4 MAX pack + MAX wedge pack in R flex SCORE steel shafts? 

Either that or the Sti2.  Tough to go wrong with either. The Sti2 has a big edge in looks. Beginner-ish set but really nice look to it. 

[mustang]

6 hours ago, iamlowsound said:

What is the general consensus on the KE4 Pro TC IST?

Is it better than the older KE4 TC?

Does it launch high and land soft?

Easy to hit from deep rough? 

Forgiving? I'm not looking for ultimate forgiveness, but something that is easier to hit than a long iron. 

I believe consensus is it is good to great.  IMO-- Great.   I start my set at #5 iron(and that is under review!).   I picked up a 23 degree PRO-IST as soon as they came out.  I paired it with the MPF shaft.  

 

Is it better than the Older KE-4 TC-- YES-  I had played a 19-22 degree in the original for YEARS.   It is still a very good club.  Both my kids played one all thru HS golf-- my daughter plays to an 8 and she still loves hers.   THe IST-- Easier to hit solid IMO.  More forgiving without sacrificing any playability 

 

YES- it lauches higher FOR ME!

 

Is it easy to hit from deep rough--   this is EXACTLY where this club truly shines.  It is unbelievable from really tough deep rough.   I have sold three of these just with people watching me get out of rough with great shots..   I really don't hit any iron out of rough other than #8, #9 and PW/SW.  All other rough shots-- the hybrid comes out.  I choke down and cut it for it to go 165-175.  Square it up for 180-195.    It has saved me so many strokes.  It truly needs to be something you try -- I will be shocked if you don't love it for this only!

 

Forgiving- Yes-- I am looking to hit it more and more.  I am trying to see if my #5 iron really needs to be in play as I don't hit it consistenly well anymore.   

 

I reviewed the Pro IST on the Maltby website some time ago.   Best of luck with your bag configuration!

[iamlowsound]

1 hour ago, mustang said:

I believe consensus is it is good to great.  IMO-- Great.   I start my set at #5 iron(and that is under review!).   I picked up a 23 degree PRO-IST as soon as they came out.  I paired it with the MPF shaft.  

 

Is it better than the Older KE-4 TC-- YES-  I had played a 19-22 degree in the original for YEARS.   It is still a very good club.  Both my kids played one all thru HS golf-- my daughter plays to an 8 and she still loves hers.   THe IST-- Easier to hit solid IMO.  More forgiving without sacrificing any playability 

 

YES- it lauches higher FOR ME!

 

Is it easy to hit from deep rough--   this is EXACTLY where this club truly shines.  It is unbelievable from really tough deep rough.   I have sold three of these just with people watching me get out of rough with great shots..   I really don't hit any iron out of rough other than #8, #9 and PW/SW.  All other rough shots-- the hybrid comes out.  I choke down and cut it for it to go 165-175.  Square it up for 180-195.    It has saved me so many strokes.  It truly needs to be something you try -- I will be shocked if you don't love it for this only!

 

Forgiving- Yes-- I am looking to hit it more and more.  I am trying to see if my #5 iron really needs to be in play as I don't hit it consistenly well anymore.   

 

I reviewed the Pro IST on the Maltby website some time ago.   Best of luck with your bag configuration!

Thanks for the detailed reply! I just got back from my league round and I grabbed a demo Cobra DS Adapt hybrid set to 23° from our GM before I hit the range. It was awesome on the range for the 20 balls I hit with it. I've honestly never really hit hybrids before and it was super easy to hit and the mishits weren't very punishing at all. Well struck balls were landing right at the 200 yard marker. Unfortunately, I didn't need that distance in league at all, but I hit an awesome 130 yard punch shot with it. 

 

Don't worry, I'm not going to buy the Cobra as it's $160 more than the Maltby! I do think I'll pull the trigger on the KE4 Pro TC IST in the next week or so!