Maltby TS2

[achappy]

Popeye, show have you been handling the stronger lofts? You may have mentioned it earlier but the TS-2 PW is 44*. Are you basically treating it like a 9I and the GW as your PW? My current PW is 46* and I already have gapping issues in the scoring irons and it seems this would make it worse.

 

I currently play 745s and love them and am torn between just reshafting them with DG105 or building a set of TS1 or TS2 with DG105.

[Popeye64]

Popeye, show have you been handling the stronger lofts? You may have mentioned it earlier but the TS-2 PW is 44*. Are you basically treating it like a 9I and the GW as your PW? My current PW is 46* and I already have gapping issues in the scoring irons and it seems this would make it worse.

 

I currently play 745s and love them and am torn between just reshafting them with DG105 or building a set of TS1 or TS2 with DG105.

I went from playing the MMB Blacks which are pretty close to classic lofts. I was swinging those clubs pretty aggressively. The approach I have been able to take with the TS-2 is a much smoother and controlled swing. Think 3/4 swing but still a very solid strong swing. For me,,, GW is about 110-115 but I can easily dial that down. PW is 130, 9 is a 150 club and so on.. that isnt that much of a departure from where I was with a very aggressive swing. I am scoring much more consistently. By a big margin.

 

Ramping the distances up and down has been very easy also, and consistent. So for myself the worry of the added lofts has been a non issue and my HP reflects the year long improvements.

[wishbone]

This is becoming a hard decision! I am losing distance due to age and health issues (being worked on), with a miss that is generally low on the face. I am more of a sweeper than digger. Grew up playing blades and persimmon, and have a hard time adjusting to the larger sized clubs of today.

 

So now I am stuck!

 

DBM/TE best for my general miss, but no distance help. Maybe bend 2* strong? Good looking, thinnest topline.

TS-2 Best of the three for distance, highest COG for low hits. Fat top line

TS-1 Best compromise? Distance help between the 2, COG .750 (.796 versus .675) in between the two for low hits, nice top line

 

I think the decision is coming down to if the DBM/TE are bent to match the lofts of the TS-1, will the TS-1 give greater distance and forgiveness, or is the DBM/TE the way to go?

[ode1]

This is becoming a hard decision! I am losing distance due to age and health issues (being worked on), with a miss that is generally low on the face. I am more of a sweeper than digger. Grew up playing blades and persimmon, and have a hard time adjusting to the larger sized clubs of today.

 

So now I am stuck!

 

DBM/TE best for my general miss, but no distance help. Maybe bend 2* strong? Good looking, thinnest topline.

TS-2 Best of the three for distance, highest COG for low hits. Fat top line

TS-1 Best compromise? Distance help between the 2, COG .750 (.796 versus .675) in between the two for low hits, nice top line

 

I think the decision is coming down to if the DBM/TE are bent to match the lofts of the TS-1, will the TS-1 give greater distance and forgiveness, or is the DBM/TE the way to go?

 

I would make a test club of the final candidates.....and then make a final decision.

[Popeye64]

Got another round in today and shot a 70. It was almost a boring round since it wound up being one tap in par after another save for one three putt bogey. Had two birdies. Today was all TS-2. The level of confidence is so high with these clubs. Point and shoot clubs that stop within a foot. Distance control was great, just couldnt get putts to fall.

Even though the course was saturated from non stop rain the rocker style sole keeps me from digging craters.

 

A lot people ask me if I still like the TS-2 or I prefer the TS-1... I'll be gaming the TS-2 for whatever is left of this season and look forward to going through to next year after the simulator season finishes up. My game is missing nothing with these clubs. Though the TS-1s are great,, I just play better with the 2s.

 

After taking a good look at the bag and what I am playing.. I will loose the 60° and the Utility wood. I'll replace the utility with a TS-2 4 iron. For wedges I'll just have a 52 and a 56. The GW of my set is 49° and I'll catalog the crap out of them in the simulator and bend the GW and the 52 so they live in harmony with a good gap between them. I just never use the 60° anymore so I wont miss that club.

That leaves me with the 3 wood, driver and putter with space for one more club. Not even sure I need one more to tell the truth.

[ThinkingPlus]

Well I pulled the trigger yesterday on building out a set of TS1s. Ordered the 6-9 plus GW and Recoil 680 F4 shafts. I also ordered 1/16" lead sheet from McMaster-Carr for swingweighting. I will cut little slabs of lead to fit the notch on the backside of the irons and epoxy in place to tune the swingweight. Should be fun.

[Cwebb]

This is becoming a hard decision! I am losing distance due to age and health issues (being worked on), with a miss that is generally low on the face. I am more of a sweeper than digger. Grew up playing blades and persimmon, and have a hard time adjusting to the larger sized clubs of today.

 

So now I am stuck!

 

DBM/TE best for my general miss, but no distance help. Maybe bend 2* strong? Good looking, thinnest topline.

TS-2 Best of the three for distance, highest COG for low hits. Fat top line

TS-1 Best compromise? Distance help between the 2, COG .750 (.796 versus .675) in between the two for low hits, nice top line

 

I think the decision is coming down to if the DBM/TE are bent to match the lofts of the TS-1, will the TS-1 give greater distance and forgiveness, or is the DBM/TE the way to go?

 

All else equal, figure that the "spring face" of the TS-1 will produce more distance.....simply because the ball will come off the face faster

[jasonp87]

This is becoming a hard decision! I am losing distance due to age and health issues (being worked on), with a miss that is generally low on the face. I am more of a sweeper than digger. Grew up playing blades and persimmon, and have a hard time adjusting to the larger sized clubs of today.

 

So now I am stuck!

 

DBM/TE best for my general miss, but no distance help. Maybe bend 2* strong? Good looking, thinnest topline.

TS-2 Best of the three for distance, highest COG for low hits. Fat top line

TS-1 Best compromise? Distance help between the 2, COG .750 (.796 versus .675) in between the two for low hits, nice top line

 

I think the decision is coming down to if the DBM/TE are bent to match the lofts of the TS-1, will the TS-1 give greater distance and forgiveness, or is the DBM/TE the way to go?

 

Using lofts to gain distance is not the solution. You bend lofts to control spin and height. Losing distance and speed and hitting low on the face would lead me to believe you likely dont hit the ball too high. Bending lofts strong would make your ball go even lower.

 

Remember at the end of the day you can bend lofts as strong as you want or buy a set like the ts2 with a 44* pw or the TE with a 43* 9i. Those are the 2 comparible clubs...

 

Did you actually gain a club of distance...no you just took 1 extra club. Remember most traditional sets go from a 23 to 24* 4i to a 47-48* pw.

 

The 4-PW of the TE is the same as going 5-GW on the TS2. The number stamped on the bottom might be different but you didnt gain a club or any distance.

[Fellaheen51]

May wish to think twice about bending TE/DBM stronger. In the case of the DBM, the head doesn't sound all that receptive to bending. Other than by Maltby. Doubtful whether I would have an outside bender touch them. In the case of both both, bending 3* strong (based on a TE 7 iron to match the TS-1 loft, i.e 35* vs. 32*) will make the already low bounce head practically zero bounce. Based on a 1/1 correlation, loft to bounce. Modifying lofts has unintended consequences than simply changing the low angles. I'd simply take an extra club to traverse a given distance rather than manipulating lofts from the original design.

 

The TS-1/2 may get a bump in distance do to spring face, but perhaps more attributable to stronger lofts compared to the TE/DBM.

 

I've been trialing a TE 7 iron head. Determining the right shaft has been a WIP. Heretofore, the trajectory has been unsatisfactorily high. The TE is the preferred head vs. the DBM. I need the dynamic lie adjustability (+ 2*/3* upright) AFTER I've spent some time with the clubs, out on the course, hitting off of grass. Watching ball flight, looking at divots. Only then will I take them to my bender for adjustment. WTS, there is a lot to like with the TE, great feel, easy to launch, excellent sole design for the sweeper in me. The DBM's may look cool, but the TE is a more practical solution for this golfer.

[Popeye64]

May wish to think twice about bending TE/DBM stronger. In the case of the DBM, the head doesn't sound all that receptive to bending. Other than by Maltby. Doubtful whether I would have an outside bender touch them. In the case of both both, bending 3* strong (based on a TE 7 iron to match the TS-1 loft, i.e 35* vs. 32*) will make the already low bounce head practically zero bounce. Based on a 1/1 correlation, loft to bounce. Modifying lofts has unintended consequences than simply changing the low angles. I'd simply take an extra club to traverse a given distance rather than manipulating lofts from the original design.

 

The TS-1/2 may get a bump in distance do to spring face, but perhaps more attributable to stronger lofts compared to the TE/DBM.

 

I've been trialing a TE 7 iron head. Determining the right shaft has been a WIP. Heretofore, the trajectory has been unsatisfactorily high. The TE is the preferred head vs. the DBM. I need the dynamic lie adjustability (+ 2*/3* upright) AFTER I've spent some time with the clubs, out on the course, hitting off of grass. Watching ball flight, looking at divots. Only then will I take them to my bender for adjustment. WTS, there is a lot to like with the TE, great feel, easy to launch, excellent sole design for the sweeper in me. The DBM's may look cool, but the TE is a more practical solution for this golfer.

For myself the only fault in a otherwise fantastic iron with the TE DBM was as you have found so far in the too high of a flight. I tried quite a few different shafts and the very low COG just didnt work for me. Certainly playable but never where I really wanted it. My miss can tend to be off to the right. When I hit that shot with the TE it was way high and right just falling out of the sky. Perfect iron for a sweeper.

[propman]

Popeye, How would you rate the PTM for a sweeper. I already have the TEs.

[Popeye64]

Actually pretty good. I fit a guy a few months back into the PTM and he was a sweeper. Feel wise he wanted the TE but he needed just a bit more help than the TE could give him. Seeing how much better he was hitting the PTM in a clear conscious I couldnt let him go with the TE. He may have grown into the TE but the PTM has all the modern subtle tech that was a much better fit for him. The PTM is a great head that has certainly been lost with the TS line release.

Visually the PTM will jump out at you beside the TE. Where the TE is far more compact in looks only. The actually dimensions are fairly close. With the Toe height of the PTM being only a tenth higher. 2.1 vs 2.2 inches. The top line of the PTM is probably the reason.

The COG of the TE is pretty extreme at .675 where the PTM is .750. So the PTM may launch lower for you in theory if the lofts are equal. I myself have seen this on the range when doing a head the head. 6 iron TE to a 7 iron PTM.

Grab a PTM head and give it a go.

The clubs I built him were the PTM blacks and they were a great looking iron.

[offwhite]

Had to look up the TS1s after finding this thread and they are intriguing. For those who have tried, is the gapping ok in these irons? Seems like it might be wide at the bottom and tight at the top just based on loft specs...

[propman]

Actually pretty good. I fit a guy a few months back into the PTM and he was a sweeper. Feel wise he wanted the TE but he needed just a bit more help than the TE could give him. Seeing how much better he was hitting the PTM in a clear conscious I couldnt let him go with the TE. He may have grown into the TE but the PTM has all the modern subtle tech that was a much better fit for him. The PTM is a great head that has certainly been lost with the TS line release.

Visually the PTM will jump out at you beside the TE. Where the TE is far more compact in looks only. The actually dimensions are fairly close. With the Toe height of the PTM being only a tenth higher. 2.1 vs 2.2 inches. The top line of the PTM is probably the reason.

The COG of the TE is pretty extreme at .675 where the PTM is .750. So the PTM may launch lower for you in theory if the lofts are equal. I myself have seen this on the range when doing a head the head. 6 iron TE to a 7 iron PTM.

Grab a PTM head and give it a go.

The clubs I built him were the PTM blacks and they were a great looking iron.

 

Very helpful. Thanks.

[Popeye64]

Had to look up the TS1s after finding this thread and they are intriguing. For those who have tried, is the gapping ok in these irons? Seems like it might be wide at the bottom and tight at the top just based on loft specs...

I have not found any weird gapping issues. I did a lot of simulator time before I had them on course and nothing ever jumped out as an issue.

[Cwebb]

May wish to think twice about bending TE/DBM stronger. In the case of the DBM, the head doesn't sound all that receptive to bending. Other than by Maltby. Doubtful whether I would have an outside bender touch them. In the case of both both, bending 3* strong (based on a TE 7 iron to match the TS-1 loft, i.e 35* vs. 32*) will make the already low bounce head practically zero bounce. Based on a 1/1 correlation, loft to bounce. Modifying lofts has unintended consequences than simply changing the low angles. I'd simply take an extra club to traverse a given distance rather than manipulating lofts from the original design.

 

 

Adjusting iron lofts 1-2* is not a problem for most. It's done on tour a lot, to achieve what players want/need through out a set.

 

We do have to at least consider the bounce, but 1-2* of bounce angle is very small.....and when considering that the overall sole design of the TE/DBM has more "effective bounce" than the actual bounce number specs would indicate.....it's not really an issue for most players....other than maybe those who really dig.

 

For a "sweeper" especially,...not an issue

[Soccerrick10]

I was at Golfworks yesterday and took the opportunity to hit the TS1 against the TS2. I previously built a TS2 6 iron before and wasn’t really excited about it. But, that TS1 was great. It seemed softer, yet livelier. I was consistently 3-5 yards longer with the TS1 with the same shaft in each in spite of the stronger lofted TS2.

 

Now I’m rethinking about building a set, but in TS1 instead.

[BogeyParBogey]

This is becoming a hard decision! I am losing distance due to age and health issues (being worked on), with a miss that is generally low on the face. I am more of a sweeper than digger. Grew up playing blades and persimmon, and have a hard time adjusting to the larger sized clubs of today.

 

So now I am stuck!

 

DBM/TE best for my general miss, but no distance help. Maybe bend 2* strong? Good looking, thinnest topline.

TS-2 Best of the three for distance, highest COG for low hits. Fat top line

TS-1 Best compromise? Distance help between the 2, COG .750 (.796 versus .675) in between the two for low hits, nice top line

 

I think the decision is coming down to if the DBM/TE are bent to match the lofts of the TS-1, will the TS-1 give greater distance and forgiveness, or is the DBM/TE the way to go?

 

Bending 2* strong will give you very little bounce and increase the chance of digging.

 

Dave

[wmblake2000]

I was at Golfworks yesterday and took the opportunity to hit the TS1 against the TS2. I previously built a TS2 6 iron before and wasn’t really excited about it. But, that TS1 was great. It seemed softer, yet livelier. I was consistently 3-5 yards longer with the TS1 with the same shaft in each in spite of the stronger lofted TS2.

 

Now I’m rethinking about building a set, but in TS1 instead.

 

That’s surprising. Any idea of why this happened? Did you make more solid contact or see less spin - or swing with more confidence/faster - with ta-1.

[Soccerrick10]

 

Now I’m rethinking about building a set, but in TS1 instead.

 

That’s surprising. Any idea of why this happened? Did you make more solid contact or see less spin - or swing with more confidence/faster - with ta-1.

 

I’m not sure. I was hitting them back to back, 2 to 3 shots, then switched. I think I hit about 30 shots of each and the differences were consistent.

 

I confirmed the shafts were the same. I was on the indoor mats. I should have tried them outdoors too, but didn’t. I ordered a TS1 head to test further, so I can do a more detailed comparison with my two heads.

 

I’ll let you know ASAP.

[Popeye64]

@soccerrick10. I was definitely tending to swing a bit more aggressively with the TS-1 as it seemed to like being man handled. For me it plays closer to a blade that likes being struck crisply. It will be interesting to see the swingspeed and or ball speed difference if you can capture that.

[Popeye64]

If you look way up in the thread I have some CG2 data between the two 7 irons. The spread of swings with the two clubs has some variations but over all the swing speed was the same. Ball speed was the same, only the spin differed. Even though there is a 2° difference the TS-1 was far less than half a club short as it should have been. So in my brief collection of data the TS-1 performed better than thought but still was not as long as the TS-2. On course I still see the TS-1 as a bit shorter.

 

It would be interesting to see what you get for data between the two.

[ajgoodal.704]

Popeye,

 

I’ve been looking to build a set of Maltby irons for awhile now. I would consider myself a digger and have had one of my better seasons this year with a set of Cobra F7s with Modus 130s. I’m thinking the TS2s would be a nice transition for me. Any thoughts?

[Popeye64]

Popeye,

 

I’ve been looking to build a set of Maltby irons for awhile now. I would consider myself a digger and have had one of my better seasons this year with a set of Cobra F7s with Modus 130s. I’m thinking the TS2s would be a nice transition for me. Any thoughts?

Order up a single TS-2 in a 7 iron and give it a go. Maltby even has a 30 day return policy. As a big time digger myself,, but one who strikes the ball very well I have found the TS-2 to be perfect for my game. I have had experience with other OEM VSoles and I like what they have done with this one the best. They call it a 4 way radius sole. The TS-1 has the same features but just less of an effect as it's more blade like. For most of the season my ego and eye kept telling me I wanted the TS-1 but for myself the 2 just works better in every aspect. For any digger it's the first club I would hand them every time.

[dmeeksDC]

Popeye,

 

I’ve been looking to build a set of Maltby irons for awhile now. I would consider myself a digger and have had one of my better seasons this year with a set of Cobra F7s with Modus 130s. I’m thinking the TS2s would be a nice transition for me. Any thoughts?

Order up a single TS-2 in a 7 iron and give it a go. Maltby even has a 30 day return policy. As a big time digger myself,, but one who strikes the ball very well I have found the TS-2 to be perfect for my game. I have had experience with other OEM VSoles and I like what they have done with this one the best. They call it a 4 way radius sole. The TS-1 has the same features but just less of an effect as it's more blade like. For most of the season my ego and eye kept telling me I wanted the TS-1 but for myself the 2 just works better in every aspect. For any digger it's the first club I would hand them every time.

 

I did this last year with a DBM 5 iron and a Recoil 110 F4 shaft — my test is, if the 5 iron is money, it’s all money, including the 4 iron! — and I am glad I did. The treatment definitely is bulletproof but I thought it felt hard even on flushed shots. I did not go for the full set. Made me wonder if the TE chrome feels better. Anyway, it is good advice to build one club as a test. I was pondering doing it again with the TE before I stumbled across this thread.

 

Now I am pondering getting a TS2 5 iron built instead. The 4 and 5 irons are key spots. If there is anyway I can fire a 4 iron at the green instead of a 4/5 hyrbrid, that is my preference. Really, at 6 iron up I can play anything. And sometimes that holds true with the 4 and 5 iron, but consistency is the issue. It is that 190-215 approach range I am looking for something reliable, something I can swing smoothly and get there. I have plenty of ballspeed, I don’t have plenty of time to hone my game.

[Popeye64]

@ dmeeksDC

 

I love the TS-2 5 iron. I can get it to go about 205 on the fly with a little draw swing. Towards the end of the season I was using it out of the tee box in quite a few instances where I had to find the fairway. It was quite the weapon and would get some decent roll out too.

[dmeeksDC]

Anyone tried the TS2 irons with a C Taper or Project X Rifle shaft? Those are two I like a lot. How is the head in terms of spin? I usually have plenty and seem to get more penetrating flight with those shafts. But I like midweight so I go either R-plus in the C Taper or 5.5 in PX to get 115g uncut.

 

Just wondering if someone has tried one of those builds or if there is another 110g-115g shaft that might be similar, point me to it.

[m4harrah]

I have the TS2’s with C-Taper’s and they perform exactly how I’d expect. Plenty of spin to stop quickly but definitely not ripping back short irons and wedges and not spinning up or ballooning in the wind. Don’t have numbers as I’ve never put them on trackman but the simplest I can say is that for me they’re perfect and play similar in these heads to what they did when I had them in a set of iblades just with longer carry and more forgiveness.

 

Anyone tried the TS2 irons with a C Taper or Project X Rifle shaft? Those are two I like a lot. How is the head in terms of spin? I usually have plenty and seem to get more penetrating flight with those shafts. But I like midweight so I go either R-plus in the C Taper or 5.5 in PX to get 115g uncut.

 

Just wondering if someone has tried one of those builds or if there is another 110g-115g shaft that might be similar, point me to it.

[achappy]

I have the TS-1 4 and 5irons with DG105 drying now. Debated about the TS-2 but I've never been a fan of bulky looking clubs with thick toplines. I'm hoping for a little more forgiveness, but mainly more height, than my current Srixon 745s. The 745s are pretty forgiving for its size so even if the TS-1s are the same but launch higher I'll be happy.

 

The TS-1s look amazing. I swear GW needs to update their website presentation because it doesn't do them justice.

[Popeye64]

I have the TS-1 4 and 5irons with DG105 drying now. Debated about the TS-2 but I've never been a fan of bulky looking clubs with thick toplines. I'm hoping for a little more forgiveness, but mainly more height, than my current Srixon 745s. The 745s are pretty forgiving for its size so even if the TS-1s are the same but launch higher I'll be happy.

 

The TS-1s look amazing. I swear GW needs to update their website presentation because it doesn't do them justice.

I fell in love with the DG 105s. Not as smooth feeling as a Nippon but better feedback and control. I found the KBS Tour 105s to be almost harsh. The DG are a perfect fit and a S flex holds up under a serious rip of a swing when you want to step on it.

 

I have been hoping the art dept at Golfworks would pick up the level of catalog presentation but I will gladly sacrifice a grainy picture for a world class iron at a third of the price.