Do you choose your wedge(s) mainly for full swing or short game?

[dlygrisse]

My 58 is my short game club. Totally different club than the rest of the set. The rest are basically full swing clubs.

[deadsolid...shank]

I've been experimenting a bit with the top end of the bag (I have a pretty good chunk of proshop credit). Replacing my 3 wood and 18* hybrid with either 17* hybrid or a 4 wood. It would eliminate the 250+ yard shot (or attempt st that shot), but the reality is that shot is only needed probably only once every two or three rounds. If it's something that could consistently fill that 230-240 range, it would probably cover most situations.

[Bubbtubbs]

I never hit full shots with any wedge above my 48* pitching wedge. Anything under 110 is some kind of partial swing pitch shot with some wedge or another.

[North Butte]

Looking back at this thread I think I'll change my answer to more directly address the OP's title.

 

Q: Do I choose wedges mainly for full swing or short game?

A: I insist that they work well for both or else I won't keep them in the bag.

 

I was thinking this morning about when I switched (back) to Vokey wedges after a few years playing others. The 56-degree SW I picked for the middle of the 52-56-60 set was an S-grind. It worked great out of sand bunkers, especially if I want to opened it way up and take a big swing to generate some speed. But I had no idea whatsoever how far or how high that thing would go with a full swing. So after just a couple months I swapped it for a 56-degree F-grind. Not *quite* as zippy through soft sand but it's remarkable how much more stable and predictable it feels on a full swing.

[deadsolid...shank]

Looking back at this thread I think I'll change my answer to more directly address the OP's title.

 

Q: Do I choose wedges mainly for full swing or short game?

A: I insist that they work well for both or else I won't keep them in the bag.

 

I was thinking this morning about when I switched (back) to Vokey wedges after a few years playing others. The 56-degree SW I picked for the middle of the 52-56-60 set was an S-grind. It worked great out of sand bunkers, especially if I want to opened it way up and take a big swing to generate some speed. But I had no idea whatsoever how far or how high that thing would go with a full swing. So after just a couple months I swapped it for a 56-degree F-grind. Not *quite* as zippy through soft sand but it's remarkable how much more stable and predictable it feels on a full swing.

 

Hey NB. I wish it were that simple for me. Both actually work ok. At their respective “strengths”.

 

I just working theough that tradoff right now. With the club that I’m more confident around the greens with, I have a 30 yard gap at the bottom of my bag. I could put the 56* in that closes that gap if I were more comfortable using my 60* for for wider range of shots. But at this point I’m just not.

 

I’m also going to look at a 54* & 58* setup later today (someone had mentioned this also up above). Possibly that might close the gap enough that I w9ntmhave to mess with the top end.

[North Butte]

Looking back at this thread I think I'll change my answer to more directly address the OP's title.

 

Q: Do I choose wedges mainly for full swing or short game?

A: I insist that they work well for both or else I won't keep them in the bag.

 

I was thinking this morning about when I switched (back) to Vokey wedges after a few years playing others. The 56-degree SW I picked for the middle of the 52-56-60 set was an S-grind. It worked great out of sand bunkers, especially if I want to opened it way up and take a big swing to generate some speed. But I had no idea whatsoever how far or how high that thing would go with a full swing. So after just a couple months I swapped it for a 56-degree F-grind. Not *quite* as zippy through soft sand but it's remarkable how much more stable and predictable it feels on a full swing.

 

Hey NB. I wish it were that simple for me. Both actually work ok. At their respective “strengths”.

 

I just working theough that tradoff right now. With the club that I’m more confident around the greens with, I have a 30 yard gap at the bottom of my bag. I could put the 56* in that closes that gap if I were more comfortable using my 60* for for wider range of shots. But at this point I’m just not.

 

I’m also going to look at a 54* & 58* setup later today (someone had mentioned this also up above). Possibly that might close the gap enough that I w9ntmhave to mess with the top end.

 

When I was a beginner, my teaching-pro buddy had an assistant who was a wedge-game wizard. Just about the best hands I've ever seen on a golfer. He had a PW from his iron set then two wedges, both of them "around 57 degrees" although he wasn't sure about exact lofts.

 

I asked him wasn't that kind of redundant and he was like, "Well, I just use whichever one I feel like using when I get to the ball. They are totally different wedges". Guess it was just me being a newbie but they looked exactly the same to me, same shape, soles looked about the same, both of 'em just about worn out.

[Sun Devil]

Just recently purchased the gap (approach) and sand wedge that goes with my set (CF16). Both wedges were shafted and lie adjusted to match my entire iron set. I use these for full shots. I still use my Clevelands for bunkers and chipping though.

[wknomi]

I buy for my full shot. I try and avoid that dreaded 50 yarder if possible. Im carrying 5 wedges. 43. 47, 50.5, 54, and 58. Seems stupid, but Id rather take my full swing as it takes out my clockwork guess. Im only carrying a 5w so I have the room.

Correct me if I'm wrong but that's carrying a 9i, PW, Gap, then 2 extra wedges. Not unusual unless you're carrying them in addition to those irons....

[dunn]

Around the green, can hit any wedge from full shot distance really.....

 

Greenside manners, really for me it's just familiarity, been playn same wedges for 4 years and just get the newer model when released....my brand doenst really change em or hasnt so makes it easy

[pholway]

I use my 50 for full shots that go long and left , 54 for delicate pitches that come up woefully short and my 58 for green burning skulls from the sand.

[rxk9fan]

I don't even consider the two attributes separately. I always include a PW, 50 or 52, 54 or 56, and 58 or 60 in my set and in my mind they have to all work from green side to all out full shots up to how far I am capable of hitting them. I feel like wedges are the easiest "full shot" club in the bag. They have the shortest shafts so I feel like they are the easiest to hit. When I see players struggle with a 60 degree for example from the fairway, I almost always see them playing the ball way too far forward. If you don't have the ball positioned so that the short shafted head can hit the ball at the bottom of the swing arc, then it is VERY easy to hit ground first and then ball. Play it in your stance where the club can strike it on the way down and you are golden with that short shaft.

So.....all wedges should do it all IMO.

[RobotDoctor]

My GW is suited more for full shots and my LW is suited more for finesse shots within 40 yards. I can use the GW from green side bunkers very well and chunk and run shots from thick green side rough. I can also hit full shots with the LW without any manipulation of the swing, from 85 - 90 yards.

[Haber]

I use my wedges for all shots. Can comfortably hit 50 54 and 58 full from 115 105 and 95 respectively and use the 58 for fluffy lies or short sided and use the 50 for low bump and runners. Primarily use the 58 from the sand but if it is wet hard bunkers will use my 54.

[SwingMan]

My new PW hits it farther, than my former set so I need a new gap. I select the 56 and 60 based on their grind and versatility, not distance. The last two are my specialty wedges.

[MarkAJones]

Interesting topic.

 

I rarely play full shots in my 54 and 58. I'll occasionally go fullish in my 50 if I really need it to stop and a 3/4 PW wont do the job.

 

My comfort shot is between 9 and 12 o clock, so I'll often go up a club and swing in that zone rather than going for max loft and a longer swing.

 

It's probably borne from the fact at 6 foot 4 I struggled with wedges early on. Then I got them all made to the length of my PW and my wedge play started to improve - well become more consistent anyway. Either way, I still like the control that a 1/2 to 3/4 swing gives me. Unless I need to go really high, I never hit a full 58. If i need to go 70 yards I know a 50% 50 degree will be spot on, so why try and hit a 58? for me, a longer swing gives more scope for a skull or a fat. I play with a guy who is obsessed with gunning his most lofted club 90 100, even 110 yards. Guess who hits more greens - him or me?

[Joelsim]

I use all my wedges for both greens and full. Have had some that were one or the other, not a fan.

 

Full 58, 90 yds, flops, greenside bunkers, chips, 50 yd pitches, etc.

 

Full 52, 110, pitches, chips, can open it up and hit higher shots as needed.

 

Full 46 , 130, gap wedge. Have chipped with it as well, good on longer shots as well, haven't found all I can do with this one yet. Only had it a few weeks.

 

Mine’s similar to this. 44.5*PW and 49.5*UW for full shots (130/115).

 

52* CBX for full shots (100), and greenside chips as well as some longer pitches.

 

58* MD4 for full shots (85), and greenside chips with a bit more rough in between, most bunker shots and closer pitches.

 

64* as and when required for flops, lobs and short-sided chips.

 

To the guy above who hits a 60* 110 yards, chapeau and wtf!

 

Anyway, to conclude, I spent a long time looking at grinds when I chose my wedges to ensure that I had every eventuality covered, I think I’ve achieved that. The only one that isn’t a full shot club is the 64 as it’s too risky, but it can do finesse shots like nothing else when required. I’d suggest looking at what you need to achieve and then pick your wedges accordingly.

[bladehunter]

Sounds to me like a combination of the sole bounce/grind and the shaft. I would reshaft the one that is better around the greens with the same shaft and specs as the one that is better on full shots. I have always found the shaft to have more of an effect the fuller the shot is and the grind/bounce to have more of an effect on shorter shots. I would bet the newly reshafted wedge would be much better on fuller shots and keep its reliablity around the greens.

 

Totally agree with this.

 

If I have a wedge that’s great aroudn the greens but not on full shots. It’s always ended up being lie angle and/or shaft. Something is delivering the club differently on a full swing. Assuming the issue isn’t happening for other wedges.

[extrastiff]

I use all my wedges for both greens and full. Have had some that were one or the other, not a fan.

 

Full 58, 90 yds, flops, greenside bunkers, chips, 50 yd pitches, etc.

 

Full 52, 110, pitches, chips, can open it up and hit higher shots as needed.

 

Full 46 , 130, gap wedge. Have chipped with it as well, good on longer shots as well, haven't found all I can do with this one yet. Only had it a few weeks.

 

Mines similar to this. 44.5*PW and 49.5*UW for full shots (130/115).

 

52* CBX for full shots (100), and greenside chips as well as some longer pitches.

 

58* MD4 for full shots (85), and greenside chips with a bit more rough in between, most bunker shots and closer pitches.

 

64* as and when required for flops, lobs and short-sided chips.

 

To the guy above who hits a 60* 110 yards, chapeau and wtf!

 

Anyway, to conclude, I spent a long time looking at grinds when I chose my wedges to ensure that I had every eventuality covered, I think Ive achieved that. The only one that isnt a full shot club is the 64 as its too risky, but it can do finesse shots like nothing else when required. Id suggest looking at what you need to achieve and then pick your wedges accordingly.

 

Seriously. .a 60 110 yards?

Either a very low lofted(I.e a poor lob shot) or...lol. I dunno if I have seen a pro hit a 60 110. If they did Maybe I missed it cause it might still Be in the air

[MarkAJones]

I use all my wedges for both greens and full. Have had some that were one or the other, not a fan.

 

Full 58, 90 yds, flops, greenside bunkers, chips, 50 yd pitches, etc.

 

Full 52, 110, pitches, chips, can open it up and hit higher shots as needed.

 

Full 46 , 130, gap wedge. Have chipped with it as well, good on longer shots as well, haven't found all I can do with this one yet. Only had it a few weeks.

 

Mine’s similar to this. 44.5*PW and 49.5*UW for full shots (130/115).

 

52* CBX for full shots (100), and greenside chips as well as some longer pitches.

 

58* MD4 for full shots (85), and greenside chips with a bit more rough in between, most bunker shots and closer pitches.

 

64* as and when required for flops, lobs and short-sided chips.

 

To the guy above who hits a 60* 110 yards, chapeau and wtf!

 

Anyway, to conclude, I spent a long time looking at grinds when I chose my wedges to ensure that I had every eventuality covered, I think I’ve achieved that. The only one that isn’t a full shot club is the 64 as it’s too risky, but it can do finesse shots like nothing else when required. I’d suggest looking at what you need to achieve and then pick your wedges accordingly.

 

Seriously. .a 60 110 yards?

Either a very low lofted(I.e a poor lob shot) or...lol. I dunno if I have seen a pro hit a 60 110. If they did Maybe I missed it cause it might still Be in the air

 

I never said he can actually hit it 110.... And his most lofted is a 58. He still tries to fire that in from 100 yards though - I've tried getting him to hit a 3/4 wedge or even letting him hit a full 50 - even got him doing it in the practice area with some success but out on the course he just won't be told, it's like he has to hit a shorter club than me. I'm think I'm in his head....

 

Unless someone else mentioned hitting a 60 that far and I'm replying in error...

[Joelsim]

It was Badmeat who can hit his 60* 110 yards.

 

To be fair I can hit my 64* 110 yards. Along the ground if I blade it.

[DUBSTEP]

My home course is relatively short but extremely tight with heather as rough. I'm one of the longer hitters off the tee at the club so the majority of holes I'm hitting a short iron or wedge into a green. I hit shots between 130-100 regularly enough to make full shots the main consideration.

 

I've been putting off moving to 3 wedges because I didn't want the confusion with shots around the green but changing my irons last year means the gap between PW and Gap was too big and I was often in that awkward distance. I've just taken the plunge and ordered 50, 54 and 58 Ping Glide 2.0s

 

I still don't know exactly what will be my main club for round the greens, but I want to make one the go-to and the others for speciality shots.

[Joelsim]

My home course is relatively short but extremely tight with heather as rough. I'm one of the longer hitters off the tee at the club so the majority of holes I'm hitting a short iron or wedge into a green. I hit shots between 130-100 regularly enough to make full shots the main consideration.

 

I've been putting off moving to 3 wedges because I didn't want the confusion with shots around the green but changing my irons last year means the gap between PW and Gap was too big and I was often in that awkward distance. I've just taken the plunge and ordered 50, 54 and 58 Ping Glide 2.0s

 

I still don't know exactly what will be my main club for round the greens, but I want to make one the go-to and the others for speciality shots.

 

I’d imagine your 50* would be the most consistent for bump and runs from near the fringe, one of the others for chips that need to carry and land softly.

[extrastiff]

It was Badmeat who can hit his 60* 110 yards.

 

To be fair I can hit my 64* 110 yards. Along the ground if I blade it.

 

I was at pga tour superstore today hitting my 62 degree 95 on thin shots.

 

Less skeptical. But I still maintain 110 yards is a lower Launch than most, or badmeat is a $&?@ing beast

[Chuck905]

Recently had my PW tweaked from 46* to 48*, SW 54-8 to 52 and LW 58-12 to 56-10; has worked out really well the last two handful of rounds.

 

I find I can choke down with the PW to get a GW yardage.

 

The SW, with a lower bounce enables me to play off firm grounds and bunkers.

 

I was coming up short on full shots with my LW, so delofted help get the intended full yardage. Also around the greens, I can still open up the face to activate the bounce in lobs and pitches.

[Thamel90]

Short game by far. I rarely, if ever, take a full swing with my 56* or 60* wedges, I don't see a reason for it when I can take a smaller swing with the next club & still get plenty of control & spin on the green. Only time I might swing them full is if I really need that loft/height, like approaching a small elevated green, tucked pin, or approaching from the rough. Meanwhile, during a round, I hit many less than full shots with my 56*/60* when I inevitably miss the green, or have a short 3rd shot into a par 5.

[Hat Trick]

Remember the good old days when you had PW and SW and the only thing you knew about them was that they had a P and an S on the bottom - loft, grind, bounce were not even a thought. I think I was better around the greens back then with that "S" club! And no one even thought about whether their grooves were wearing out - if you found a good wedge you stuck with it.

 

Oh well... In answer to the question - I use my wedges for full and short shots - so they need to do both for me.

[RainShadow]

Gap wedge- full swing

SW/ LW- finesse and sand