Shim/Ferrule Question

[bombdrop]

So I have:

a .355 shaft, a .370 head, a .355 ferrule, and a shim for .355 to .370.

 

 

My questions are.

 

Does everyone still use shims for .355 to .370?

 

Do I need to bore out the ferrule to fit over the shim or just use very hot water? (my ferrule bore is on backorder till mid June). Could I also use a shaft extractor in reverse to put the ferrule on? I didn't want to bore out the ferrule just so it could fit over the shim if its for a .355 shaft.

 

Should I use glass beads for a better fit?

 

Thank you

 

 

[Stuart_G]

I can't say whether everyone does - but everyone should :-) And if you use a shim there is no need to use glass beads.

 

As far as what is needed with the ferrule - it depends on the actual ID of the ferrule - there is no real 'standard' for what each ferrule manufacturer uses for a ID. But even in the worst case, boiling water is usually enough to do the trick and I generally use the head itself as the best 'tool' to push the ferrule into place. But nothing wrong with boring it out to make the insertion easier.

 

 

[Awainer1]

Definetly use a shim. If it’s a 355 ferrule and a 355 shaft then there should be no issues. The shim shouldn’t extend past the hosel. If it’s thicker than the OD of the hosel then you need to sand it down and finish it.

[Nessism]

There is a lot of variation in ferrule ID and shaft OD. Dynamic Gold and Recoil 95/110 shafts for example are quite fat where the ferrule sits and even though they are .355 tip, a lot of .355 ferrules are very tight. I typically run a .370" reamer though the ferrule when reshafting Recoil's (I haven't built any DG shaft sets for some time so can't comment specifically). Even at that the ferrule must be pushed on forcefully.

 

When shafting .355 into .370 the first thing is to set the ferrule to the proper depth on the shaft. Then goop up the shaft tip and ID of hosel, put the shim on the shaft tip and goop that up a little more, then insert the shaft w/shim into the hosel.

[JCAG]

I open the ID of a ferrule by running it up and down on a 1/2in rat tail file. Stop every so often and dry fit.

[Adam C]

> @bombdrop said:

> So I have:

> a .355 shaft, a .370 head, a .355 ferrule, and a shim for .355 to .370.

>

>

> My questions are.

>

> Does everyone still use shims for .355 to .370?

>

> Do I need to bore out the ferrule to fit over the shim or just use very hot water? (my ferrule bore is on backorder till mid June). Could I also use a shaft extractor in reverse to put the ferrule on? I didn't want to bore out the ferrule just so it could fit over the shim if its for a .355 shaft.

>

> Should I use glass beads for a better fit?

>

> Thank you

>

>

 

Just a note on shafting beads. They are not and should not be used as shims. This is a bad idea. Shafting beads are meant as a way to center a shaft in the hosel on an already good fit. Should never be using more than 5% beads in an epoxy mix. You can use a shim along with beads but just using a lot of shafting beads in your epoxy as a filler is like using too much aggregate in a concrete mix, ie weaker bond.

[Nessism]

> @"Adam C" said:

> > @bombdrop said:

> > So I have:

> > a .355 shaft, a .370 head, a .355 ferrule, and a shim for .355 to .370.

> >

> >

> > My questions are.

> >

> > Does everyone still use shims for .355 to .370?

> >

> > Do I need to bore out the ferrule to fit over the shim or just use very hot water? (my ferrule bore is on backorder till mid June). Could I also use a shaft extractor in reverse to put the ferrule on? I didn't want to bore out the ferrule just so it could fit over the shim if its for a .355 shaft.

> >

> > Should I use glass beads for a better fit?

> >

> > Thank you

> >

> >

>

> Just a note on shafting beads. They are not and should not be used as shims. This is a bad idea. Shafting beads are meant as a way to center a shaft in the hosel on an already good fit. Should never be using more than 5% beads in an epoxy mix. You can use a shim along with beads but just using a lot of shafting beads in your epoxy as a filler is like using too much aggregate in a concrete mix, ie weaker bond.

 

At least aggregate in concrete is usually stones, which are strong. Shafting beads are round pieces of fragile glass.

[tanker44]

ALWAYS use the brass shims from golfworks.. they are the best fit. And never bore a 355 ferrule or do anything whacky. Ferrules are like a nickel a piece. If you are going to do club work order some 355s and some 370s with the sleeves. I don’t do club work after summer of 12’ and 14’. Ruined many high end shafts trying to take short cuts... and then there was the hot melt incident. Good luck.

[Nessism]

> @tanker44 said:

> ALWAYS use the brass shims from golfworks.. they are the best fit. And never bore a 355 ferrule or do anything whacky. Ferrules are like a nickel a piece. If you are going to do club work order some 355s and some 370s with the sleeves. I don’t do club work after summer of 12’ and 14’. Ruined many high end shafts trying to take short cuts... and then there was the hot melt incident. Good luck.

 

Shims come in two different types: the flat pedal type (like Golfworks sells) and the scalloped pedal type. Personally, I prefer the scalloped type because the curved pedal's crush down when you insert the shaft and conform to hold the shaft snug. With the flat pedal shims the shaft sometimes fits loosely and will turn around in the hosel. That said, if the fit is on the snug side the flat pedal shims work better. A well equipped shop will have both types just in case.

 

In terms of never boring a ferrule, well, good luck with that. Simple fact is there is no standard for shaft tip OD nor ferrule ID, so unless you have an endless supply of ferrules for trial and error sometimes it's necessary to customize the ferrule to fit.

 

I agree with not short cutting. Measure twice and cut once is a popular, and wise, slogan for good reason.

[bombdrop]

> @Nessism said:

> > @"Adam C" said:

> > > @bombdrop said:

> > > So I have:

> > > a .355 shaft, a .370 head, a .355 ferrule, and a shim for .355 to .370.

> > >

> > >

> > > My questions are.

> > >

> > > Does everyone still use shims for .355 to .370?

> > >

> > > Do I need to bore out the ferrule to fit over the shim or just use very hot water? (my ferrule bore is on backorder till mid June). Could I also use a shaft extractor in reverse to put the ferrule on? I didn't want to bore out the ferrule just so it could fit over the shim if its for a .355 shaft.

> > >

> > > Should I use glass beads for a better fit?

> > >

> > > Thank you

> > >

> > >

> >

> > Just a note on shafting beads. They are not and should not be used as shims. This is a bad idea. Shafting beads are meant as a way to center a shaft in the hosel on an already good fit. Should never be using more than 5% beads in an epoxy mix. You can use a shim along with beads but just using a lot of shafting beads in your epoxy as a filler is like using too much aggregate in a concrete mix, ie weaker bond.

>

> At least aggregate in concrete is usually stones, which are strong. Shafting beads are round pieces of fragile glass.

 

> @Nessism said:

> > @tanker44 said:

> > ALWAYS use the brass shims from golfworks.. they are the best fit. And never bore a 355 ferrule or do anything whacky. Ferrules are like a nickel a piece. If you are going to do club work order some 355s and some 370s with the sleeves. I don’t do club work after summer of 12’ and 14’. Ruined many high end shafts trying to take short cuts... and then there was the hot melt incident. Good luck.

>

> Shims come in two different types: the flat pedal type (like Golfworks sells) and the scalloped pedal type. Personally, I prefer the scalloped type because the curved pedal's crush down when you insert the shaft and conform to hold the shaft snug. With the flat pedal shims the shaft sometimes fits loosely and will turn around in the hosel. That said, if the fit is on the snug side the flat pedal shims work better. A well equipped shop will have both types just in case.

>

> In terms of never boring a ferrule, well, good luck with that. Simple fact is there is no standard for shaft tip OD nor ferrule ID, so unless you have an endless supply of ferrules for trial and error sometimes it's necessary to customize the ferrule to fit.

>

> I agree with not short cutting. Measure twice and cut once is a popular, and wise, slogan for good reason.

 

Thank you. I did use the Golfworks shims and it turned out okay. My only mistake was I put the ferrule into its spot by pounding the club head without the shim so when I installed the shim, which of course takes up a bit up space, the ferrule sits above the head roughly 1/16" so there is the slightest of gaps. next time I won't pound the ferrule up the shaft as far without the shim in there.