Golf Mechanix Universal Loft and Lie Bending Gauge or MR3 Golf True Blue Loft & Lie?

[johngalt312]

One better than the other? Intended use: irons, wedges, putters for loft and lie.

[nitram]

I've had a True Blue for the past 6 years and it has exceeded my expectations. IDK if it's any better than the GM but the versatility and customer service of the MR3 can't be be beat.

[johngalt312]

Thanks Nitram. I looked at the various club protection elements of each and went with the GM model. The MR3 appears as likely better built, but hopefully the GM model is nice as well. I just ordered my entire workshop and I will be curious to see if I regret not going digital on swing weight and loft/lie.

[nitram]

We survived for a century without digital. I think you'll do fine.

[JCAG]

> @johngalt312 said:

> Thanks Nitram. I looked at the various club protection elements of each and went with the GM model. The MR3 appears as likely better built, but hopefully the GM model is nice as well. I just ordered my entire workshop and I will be curious to see if I regret not going digital on swing weight and loft/lie.

 

You cannot go wrong with either machine.

 

[liveagua]

I have been building clubs for a little over 24 years. The True Blue is the best available. Period.

[johngalt312]

Here’s my club building kit so far:

 

The other 236 pounds arrives tomorrow (hopefully while the wife is not home).

 

 

[Milfordlefty]

Please include pics of all the "stuff' that arrives tomorrow. I can live through you vicariously.

[Socrates]

> @Milfordlefty said:

> Please include pics of all the "stuff' that arrives tomorrow. I can live through you vicariously.

 

Yes, please do. Then we can tell you which things you should send back. Not being facetious here. There are a lot of things that you likely will never need. You might think you do, but...

[johngalt312]

Fifteen large packages delivered today. Four thus far covertly made it to the basement. The rest in the garage. Pics will follow!

[Socrates]

> @johngalt312 said:

> Fifteen large packages delivered today. Four thus far covertly made it to the basement. The rest in the garage. Pics will follow!

 

Most assuredly, you've told the wife they are for her Christmas present.

[johngalt312]

> @Socrates said:

> > @johngalt312 said:

> > Fifteen large packages delivered today. Four thus far covertly made it to the basement. The rest in the garage. Pics will follow!

>

> Most assuredly, you've told the wife they are for her Christmas present.

 

Haha! She wouldn’t believe it for a moment.

[johngalt312]

Here’s the rest of the kit (liquids/tapes/powders/similar not pictured):

 

 

[johngalt312]

I didn’t need or want the box cutter or the heat gun as I already have superior options of both. That said, they came with the one package. Also already have torches (not pictured). Lastly, did not want the GW epoxy, as I have enroute and will be using 3M DP460NS.

[Milfordlefty]

WOW. Envious, especially the loft/lie machine. Post a pic when you have it all set up in your work station.

[Socrates]

You did good. The only thing you will regret is not getting the Ultimate Bending Bar.

 

Once you get it all assembled, take a few pictures so you can look back at them because that might be the last time you will see them all nice and clean without a bunch of dust, dirt and assorted stuff left over from the last 3 months. I try to keep my area clean, but it never gets back to that fresh "out of the box" look.

[nitram]

Well done John

[johngalt312]

> @Socrates said:

> You did good. The only thing you will regret is not getting the Ultimate Bending Bar.

>

> Once you get it all assembled, take a few pictures so you can look back at them because that might be the last time you will see them all nice and clean without a bunch of dust, dirt and assorted stuff left over from the last 3 months. I try to keep my area clean, but it never gets back to that fresh "out of the box" look.

 

Still awaiting delivery of a few items including the ultimate bar. And I will take some pics once done. Thanks

 

[johngalt312]

Still need to do some more tool/component assembly/clean-up, but some already finished. Am awaiting delivery of the below 8 foot Husky bench. So far the swing weight scale and shaft extractor have proven flawless. Can’t wait for the 3M epoxy to arrive so that I can prep, glue up, cut, and grip a few different MC And GD shafts I have lying around. So much better than going to/from my local builder or shipping to Ping, simply as I didn’t have the necessary equipment (plus I take more time and make sure everything is perfect). S56 re-shaft/re-grip/loft/lie coming up as well. Now want to order a Jet bench grinder and wheel!

 

[CRAFTYLEFTY20]

Good stuff! One of my long term goals

[johngalt312]

 

[Socrates]

> @johngalt312 said:

>

>

 

I would never use the mixing tubes unless I was doing about 10 sets of irons in an hour. You will waste almost 1/2 of the cartridge. Just extract using the gun, directly onto a mixing pan and mix by hand. Great epoxy and you don't want to waste any more than you have to.

[DallasSteve]

It's going to take me a while to clean up all the drool on my office desk because of you, John!!!!

[johngalt312]

> @Socrates said:

> > @johngalt312 said:

> >

> >

>

> I would never use the mixing tubes unless I was doing about 10 sets of irons in an hour. You will waste almost 1/2 of the cartridge. Just extract using the gun, directly onto a mixing pan and mix by hand. Great epoxy and you don't want to waste any more than you have to.

 

Appreciate the tip.

 

You ever use the NS in lieu of the regular 460?

 

I went through all of the 3M data sheets and this appeared to be the best, followed by DP460. Plus I am guessing that the no sag nature will simply prove more advantageous during install.

 

[Socrates]

> @johngalt312 said:

> > @Socrates said:

> > > @johngalt312 said:

> > >

> > >

> >

> > I would never use the mixing tubes unless I was doing about 10 sets of irons in an hour. You will waste almost 1/2 of the cartridge. Just extract using the gun, directly onto a mixing pan and mix by hand. Great epoxy and you don't want to waste any more than you have to.

>

> Appreciate the tip.

>

> You ever use the NS in lieu of the regular 460?

>

> I went through all of the 3M data sheets and this appeared to be the best, followed by DP460. Plus I am guessing that the no sag nature will simply prove more advantageous during install.

>

 

I've always used the DP460 in the past. I think Nessism uses it all the time. DP460 became just too expensive to buy from the local 3M supplier and I use the Golfworks Max Strength High Impact 2:1 24 hr epoxy now. Can't prove it, but I think they are the same thing.

[bladestriker]

I use these three, Brampton’s, DP810 and DP810ns, the ns is pretty hot, I only dispense enough for about three clubs at a time, and I’m pretty fast at assembling. I too have the 3m gun, but dispense (without the mixing nozzle) on a flexible cutting board/chopping mat. They’re about $10 for a pack of 4 and make cleanup easy. Another good item is nail salon dispenser for acetone (Menda makes a good one), along with Kimtec lab wipes, I’ve seen the tour vans use them both

P.S. I have the tru blue and love it.

 

[Nessism]

DP460NS is excellent but the regular 460 is stronger if you are going to be building stainless steel irons. Oddly, with DP420 is opposite; the NS version is stronger for stainless steel. One of the great things about 3M products is that they come with a proper data sheet so details like mentioned can be reviewed. You can't do that with generic epoxies, including those claiming to be "shafting epoxies."

 

One other thing that comes out if you study the 3M datasheets is that the epoxy increases in strength if you heat cure it compared to leaving it to room temperature cure. A lot of guys are afraid of heat curing but it's actually quite easy to do using a common heat gun. I take a few 2x6's scraps and create an air dam around the clubs then set my heat gun on low and set it about 2' away blowing into an opening in the dam. Touch the clubs after a few minutes and make sure you are not over heating them. About 150F is good, which will be quite warm to the touch but it won't burn you. Cured this way your irons will be ready to hit in about 1 hour. No need to wait longer.

[Nessism]

Oh, and the pile of tools showing in the photos look AWESOME. You are ready to build for years to come. One thing I can't see is a set of reamers. If you don't have a set I strongly recommend them. Some stainless steel hosel cleaning brushes too.

 

Happy building!

[johngalt312]

> @bladestriker said:

> I use these three, Brampton’s, DP810 and DP810ns, the ns is pretty hot, I only dispense enough for about three clubs at a time, and I’m pretty fast at assembling. I too have the 3m gun, but dispense (without the mixing nozzle) on a flexible cutting board/chopping mat. They’re about $10 for a pack of 4 and make cleanup easy. Another good item is nail salon dispenser for acetone (Menda makes a good one), along with Kimtec lab wipes, I’ve seen the tour vans use them both

> P.S. I have the tru blue and love it.

>

 

I was considering the 810 as well and this what a lot of the vans seem to use, but as I am in no rush, I decided on the 460 for strength. Have a couple of boxes of Kimtech wipes and will look into that Menda device. I went with GM's bender (saw the True Blue on the Ping UK tour van) - hopefully it will work well!

[johngalt312]

> @Nessism said:

> DP460NS is excellent but the regular 460 is stronger if you are going to be building stainless steel irons. Oddly, with DP420 is opposite; the NS version is stronger for stainless steel. One of the great things about 3M products is that they come with a proper data sheet so details like mentioned can be reviewed. You can't do that with generic epoxies, including those claiming to be "shafting epoxies."

>

> One other thing that comes out if you study the 3M datasheets is that the epoxy increases in strength if you heat cure it compared to leaving it to room temperature cure. A lot of guys are afraid of heat curing but it's actually quite easy to do using a common heat gun. I take a few 2x6's scraps and create an air dam around the clubs then set my heat gun on low and set it about 2' away blowing into an opening in the dam. Touch the clubs after a few minutes and make sure you are not over heating them. About 150F is good, which will be quite warm to the touch but it won't burn you. Cured this way your irons will be ready to hit in about 1 hour. No need to wait longer.

 

I thought the 460NS was stronger (that's what I read on the data sheets, unless I misread)?

 

I may eventually try the heat cure (I have a corded Dewalt heat gun that you can incrementally set the temperature with: 120* F - 1,100* F).