Golf Mechanix Universal Loft and Lie Bending Gauge or MR3 Golf True Blue Loft & Lie?

[johngalt312]

> @Nessism said:

> Oh, and the pile of tools showing in the photos look AWESOME. You are ready to build for years to come. One thing I can't see is a set of reamers. If you don't have a set I strongly recommend them. Some stainless steel hosel cleaning brushes too.

>

> Happy building!

 

Tough to see but the reamers and the SS brushes are in the first set of pictures (the brushes still bagged).

I then also have (from prior) a full set of similar brushes of varying sizes (36 in total maybe?) in stainless steel, brass, and nylon.

Anything else you think I need or could use (other than bench grinder and drill press?!)?

 

I already pulled a loose shaft tip (off of a Diamana 'ahina), drilled out epoxy, sanded/prepped tip, and will later glue it up and then grip it.

 

Am going build up Aldila Rogue 125 later as well and maybe three GDs. Also assemble tour issue TM Juno putter.

 

[Socrates]

A drill press is nice, but I rarely use it (maybe once ever couple of years). I have a separate bench grinder that I attach a cut-off wheel and alternate the other side with a buffing wheel or grinding wheel. I built a second bench that holds my sander and bench grinder so the debris doesn't get onto my main bench and I don't have to move stuff around to use them.

 

Make sure you have a good shopvac with filter to suck up the debris and also a good high CFM fan to get rid of fumes and odors.

[Pulledabill]

> @johngalt312 said:

> One better than the other? Intended use: irons, wedges, putters for loft and lie.

 

Where are you mounting the bending machine?

[johngalt312]

> @Pulledabill said:

> > @johngalt312 said:

> > One better than the other? Intended use: irons, wedges, putters for loft and lie.

>

> Where are you mounting the bending machine?

 

On a wood/steel bench.

 

[Socrates]

> @johngalt312 said:

> > @Pulledabill said:

> > > @johngalt312 said:

> > > One better than the other? Intended use: irons, wedges, putters for loft and lie.

> >

> > Where are you mounting the bending machine?

>

> On a wood/steel bench.

>

 

Get a plate of 3/8” steel plate that is 10” wide x however long your bending machine is. Bolt your bending machine to it. Then when you mount it to your bench, the device will be really stable when you are bending irons.

[Pulledabill]

> @Socrates said:

> > @johngalt312 said:

> > > @Pulledabill said:

> > > > @johngalt312 said:

> > > > One better than the other? Intended use: irons, wedges, putters for loft and lie.

> > >

> > > Where are you mounting the bending machine?

> >

> > On a wood/steel bench.

> >

>

> Get a plate of 3/8” steel plate that is 10” wide x however long your bending machine is. Bolt your bending machine to it. Then when you mount it to your bench, the device will be really stable when you are bending irons.

 

That was my plan when I go this way. My work area is in the basement so Im a bit concerned about drilling in my basement floor. I built my my bench heavy duty with the plan of possibly mounting a bending machine to it.

[johngalt312]

> @Pulledabill said:

> > @Socrates said:

> > > @johngalt312 said:

> > > > @Pulledabill said:

> > > > > @johngalt312 said:

> > > > > One better than the other? Intended use: irons, wedges, putters for loft and lie.

> > > >

> > > > Where are you mounting the bending machine?

> > >

> > > On a wood/steel bench.

> > >

> >

> > Get a plate of 3/8” steel plate that is 10” wide x however long your bending machine is. Bolt your bending machine to it. Then when you mount it to your bench, the device will be really stable when you are bending irons.

>

> That was my plan when I go this way. My work area is in the basement so Im a bit concerned about drilling in my basement floor. I built my my bench heavy duty with the plan of possibly mounting a bending machine to it.

 

I’ll be mounting to an 8 foot bench that weighs 120 pounds raw. Another 150 pounds or so of equipment on top and it’s back will be against the wall. Hopefully that will be sufficient - will see if I can get a steel plate that’ll add to this.

 

Drilling into the basement slab is easy if you have a hammer drill and a proper masonry bit. Let me know if you decide to go that route and want some 304 stainless Red Head concrete anchors. I’ve got 40 of them - 3/8” [bolt] thread size, minimum 1 and 5/8” bury depth. You can set flush or even under the top of the slab. These, once set, are incredibly strong.

[johngalt312]

https://www.itwredhead.com/Portals/0/Documents/2017%20Catalog/Multi-Set%20II%20Drop-in%20Anchors.pdf?ver=2017-03-23-150437-430

[Pulledabill]

> @johngalt312 said:

> > @Pulledabill said:

> > > @Socrates said:

> > > > @johngalt312 said:

> > > > > @Pulledabill said:

> > > > > > @johngalt312 said:

> > > > > > One better than the other? Intended use: irons, wedges, putters for loft and lie.

> > > > >

> > > > > Where are you mounting the bending machine?

> > > >

> > > > On a wood/steel bench.

> > > >

> > >

> > > Get a plate of 3/8” steel plate that is 10” wide x however long your bending machine is. Bolt your bending machine to it. Then when you mount it to your bench, the device will be really stable when you are bending irons.

> >

> > That was my plan when I go this way. My work area is in the basement so Im a bit concerned about drilling in my basement floor. I built my my bench heavy duty with the plan of possibly mounting a bending machine to it.

>

> I’ll be mounting to an 8 foot bench that weighs 120 pounds raw. Another 150 pounds or so of equipment on top and it’s back will be against the wall. Hopefully that will be sufficient - will see if I can get a steel plate that’ll add to this.

>

> Drilling into the basement slab is easy if you have a hammer drill and a proper masonry bit. Let me know if you decide to go that route and want some 304 stainless Red Head concrete anchors. I’ve got 40 of them - 3/8” [bolt] thread size, minimum 1 and 5/8” bury depth. You can set flush or even under the top of the slab. These, once set, are incredibly strong.

 

My concern is going in to the basement floor as I have no idea of the depth..

[johngalt312]

> @Pulledabill said:

> > @johngalt312 said:

> > > @Pulledabill said:

> > > > @Socrates said:

> > > > > @johngalt312 said:

> > > > > > @Pulledabill said:

> > > > > > > @johngalt312 said:

> > > > > > > One better than the other? Intended use: irons, wedges, putters for loft and lie.

> > > > > >

> > > > > > Where are you mounting the bending machine?

> > > > >

> > > > > On a wood/steel bench.

> > > > >

> > > >

> > > > Get a plate of 3/8” steel plate that is 10” wide x however long your bending machine is. Bolt your bending machine to it. Then when you mount it to your bench, the device will be really stable when you are bending irons.

> > >

> > > That was my plan when I go this way. My work area is in the basement so Im a bit concerned about drilling in my basement floor. I built my my bench heavy duty with the plan of possibly mounting a bending machine to it.

> >

> > I’ll be mounting to an 8 foot bench that weighs 120 pounds raw. Another 150 pounds or so of equipment on top and it’s back will be against the wall. Hopefully that will be sufficient - will see if I can get a steel plate that’ll add to this.

> >

> > Drilling into the basement slab is easy if you have a hammer drill and a proper masonry bit. Let me know if you decide to go that route and want some 304 stainless Red Head concrete anchors. I’ve got 40 of them - 3/8” [bolt] thread size, minimum 1 and 5/8” bury depth. You can set flush or even under the top of the slab. These, once set, are incredibly strong.

>

> My concern is going in to the basement floor as I have no idea of the depth..

 

Fair enough. Should be at least 3”-4”...SHOULD be. Proceed at your own risk (or don’t)!

 

[Socrates]

> @johngalt312 said:

 

> I’ll be mounting to an 8 foot bench that weighs 120 pounds raw. Another 150 pounds or so of equipment on top and it’s back will be against the wall. Hopefully that will be sufficient - will see if I can get a steel plate that’ll add to this.

>

Your bench and accessories will be heavy enough to keep it steady. Without the plate, I feel that the bending machine won't be wide enough to spread out the load on your bench and the bolts will try to pull through when you bend. With the plate, mine is far more solid than the pedestal that Mitchell supplied. Plus it's just 4 lag bolts holding it on (and just finger tight) so it comes off in a few seconds and keeps the bench top clear when I'm not using it.

[johngalt312]

 

Experiment:

 

[johngalt312]

12 hour epoxy cure air temperature ranged 63.5-68.5 F (unfinished basement; weather changes). As such, made a makeshift curing box and did an hour at around 140 F. Then got a space heater to bring the clubs’ surrounding air temperature up into the 80s and let them cure for another 12 hours. Rock solid. Cleaned up the adapters/ferrules/heads. Swing weighted the clubs. Gripped them freehand over the utility sink (gripping station not yet installed to the bench, as neither bench yet assembled). The entirety of this process was easy (with all of the proper tools/equipment) and I wish I would have made this jump long ago.

 

 

[johngalt312]

Hardest part by far was exactly centering the shaft logos facing down once glued up. Perfect on the G400, off by a millimeter or so on the G.

[Golf Pig]

Well done on the equipment John. You can't go wrong with GM/GolfWorks. Here's a couple of tips that might help you...

 

The GM 1x30 shaft cutter/belt sander has 2 vacuum ports but they're not a standard size. The following will allow you to connect a standard 2-1/2" shop vacuum hose to the machine. Purchase a rubber universal adapter (Shop Vac model #90687 or similar), cut off the last 2 sections and ream out the inside a bit. The 1-1/2" external diameter fits inside the belt sander port. The 1-1/4" inside diameter fits over the outside of the shaft cutter port.

 

I purchased the 6' version of the Husky bench you have. I replaced the stock top with a thicker bamboo countertop that was on clearance at Lowes. I drilled holes to through-bolt my vise but everything else in fastened with cap screws into 1/4-20 and 5/16-18 brass insert nuts. Even though the bench is sturdy and heavy it'll still move a bit. To anchor the bench, I bolted some T plates to the back of the top and then to the wall from underneath.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Golf Pig]

One other thing I just noticed in your equipment pictures... I see you have the self-centering chuck for drilling out tips. It comes with a short 1/8" drill bit but I found some Bosch 6" bits that work way better. The 5/32 bit (BL2637) fits the self-centering hole perfectly. If the grip is still on, the grip saver from GolfWorks stretches the grip out enough to get all the loose epoxy out.

[johngalt312]

> @"Golf Pig" said:

> Well done on the equipment John. You can't go wrong with GM/GolfWorks. Here's a couple of tips that might help you...

>

> The GM 1x30 shaft cutter/belt sander has 2 vacuum ports but they're not a standard size. The following will allow you to connect a standard 2-1/2" shop vacuum hose to the machine. Purchase a rubber universal adapter (Shop Vac model #90687 or similar), cut off the last 2 sections and ream out the inside a bit. The 1-1/2" external diameter fits inside the belt sander port. The 1-1/4" inside diameter fits over the outside of the shaft cutter port.

>

> I purchased the 6' version of the Husky bench you have. I replaced the stock top with a thicker bamboo countertop that was on clearance at Lowes. I drilled holes to through-bolt my vise but everything else in fastened with cap screws into 1/4-20 and 5/16-18 brass insert nuts. Even though the bench is sturdy and heavy it'll still move a bit. To anchor the bench, I bolted some T plates to the back of the top and then to the wall from underneath.

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

 

Thanks Pig. I have one of those adapters, but I will buy another - appreciate the heads-up. The bench was delivered and is 200 pounds raw. Also putting 3/8” steel plates under the bender, vise, cutter/sander, grinder (when received), etc. Hoping I don’t have to bolt it down and/or to the wall! I also independently went and purchased the similarly matching bench, but 6’ and with the hand crank, just to have more space/options. Will post pics once finished with setup. Yours looks tremendous.

[johngalt312]

> @"Golf Pig" said:

> One other thing I just noticed in your equipment pictures... I see you have the self-centering chuck for drilling out tips. It comes with a short 1/8" drill bit but I found some Bosch 6" bits that work way better. The 5/32 bit (BL2637) fits the self-centering hole perfectly. If the grip is still on, the grip saver from GolfWorks stretches the grip out enough to get all the loose epoxy out.

 

Appreciate the tip. I have some of those Bosch bits and they are legit. I used that centering chuck already, with the HSS bit, and it worked okay. Fortunately I already have a lot of different drill bits (unrelated to golf). For one shaft that had a grip on it, I blew out epoxy dust, etc. with compressor (through grip hole). Then shop vac’d the head end as well.

 

[Socrates]

Got it all set up yet?

[Milfordlefty]

Heat box idea I read somewhere and used myself. Cardboard box (copy paper box with lid worked best for me). Garage trouble light or an old table lamp (all you want is the cord and bulb socket/holder). Aluminum foil. Basic retangular indoor/outdoor thermometer. If using trouble light, cut a slot in short end of box size of cord. If using old lamp parts, cut hole size of cord, disconnect cord from socket, run cord thru hole and reattach. Line box and lid with aluminum foil. Turn on light, put club in box, cover. Put thermometer in box to check temperature. Play with different bulb wattage. What I liked is it is light weight and cord can be stored in box when not in use. Box on floor below club curing rack when in use and on shelf out of the way when not.

[johngalt312]

Unfortunately not yet. I have the six foot table (with hand crank height adjustment) put together, but it’s currently serving as temporary storage for a bunch of power tools that I need to put away. The eight foot bench I got into the basement, but it’s still in the box. Tough finding the time with two kids under two! Soon though. Wife was kinda enough to let me play nine yesterday though it was 35* out...

[Milfordlefty]

With your avatar, in Michigan? If yes, where did you play?

[johngalt312]

From MI, undergrad at UMich in AA, but live in IL.

[Milfordlefty]

Thx, just curious, cause not many courses still open in SE MI.

[Nessism]

Great job in setting up your shop. I'm jealous!

Regarding your curing method...it's overkill. Once the epoxy firms up you can go straight into the warming chamber. Production shops don't even wait that long. A one hour cure at 140F and the club will be ready to hit.

[bk12]

An amazing setup, nice stuff. I have the Golfworks/Golfmechanix ferrule prep/cutting machine you have, and it has turned into one of my favorite tools (although cutting wheels wear very fast).

[johngalt312]

Have yet to finish the workshop setup, but have been working on and building clubs nonetheless.

Also bought some more tools (awaiting delivery), chiefly a Golf Mechanix Digital Swing Weight Scale, an Auditor Programmable Epoxy Cure System 3, a Golf Mechanix Compact Bounce Angle Gauge, and an Auditor True Length Tipping Ruler (a test to see if I like it better than any of my other rulers), and a digital upgrade module for the Golf Mechanix Universal Loft and Lie Machine. Overkill to be sure, especially as only doing personal work and for friends, but I do enjoy exactness.

[johngalt312]

Funny story: for the life of me I couldn't get a Redwood Anser putter head shaft pulled (tried butane, propane, MAP gas + hands, standard pliers, channel lock straight nose pliers, vise, shaft puller, etc. - nothing worked). In the shaft puller the putter shaft would slide in the clamp as force was exerted on the head. As such, I clamped the putter shaft in the shaft puller and then flipped it upside down and very strongly clamped a metal vice further towards the grip end of the putter shaft (could care less about the putter shaft). As the putter shaft slid in the rubber clamp of the shaft puller, the metal vise eventually abutted the shaft puller (and the putter shaft would not slip in the metal vise). As I continued to crank the shaft puller, the putter head finally came off with a large pop, flying about six feet across the room (undamaged). Was wild and I know understand the merits of a Ping mechanical lock!

[johngalt312]

 

[hurley999s]

Wow that’s awesome. I’ve got the SW scale and MOI speedmatch. Curious to hear what you think about everything else...

With the ruler, is it just for tipping or can you measure play length? I have the cheap $40 one with the adjustable sole plate, but what concerns me is that there’s no lie angle gauge on that plate, you can’t lock it in, and you can’t lock the clubhead in...so if you’re not careful, you can get a lot of variation measuring. For kicks, I also printed out the Hireko ruler buddy and taped it to the wall and then use the 48” ruler...right now I can get measurements usually within 1/4” between the two, but not sure which one to trust.