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Shaft Extractors - traditional pull or reverse thrust?


Hobbs

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Ok, I'm starting to get into the personal club repair/making hobby. As of now, I've been regripping my own clubs for over 20 years and now want to start tinkering with clubs. I'm looking for shaft extractor that will last a long time but also do a good job without damaging a club head or shaft. I looked at the traditional shaft extractors and then saw the reverse thrust type. Is one better than the other or just personal preference? These are the extractors I am considering. FYI - although some are expensive, I'm not opposed to paying $$$ for a quality tool that will last a lifetime. From 2018 thru 2019 I've had at least 5 different shaft adapters pulled and replaced to try in my woods at $20 a pop. Looking to save some money by doing it myself.

I'm currently considering the three listed below: Any advice, experience would be greatly appreciated.https://www.golfworks.com/golf-mechanix-heavy-duty-shaft-extractor/p/gm1080/ Golf Mechanix Heavy Duty Shaft Extractorhttps://www.golfworks.com/golf-mechanix-reverse-thrust-shaft-puller/p/gm1068/

SIM 9.75* - Diamana DF 60X | SIM 15* - Diamana D+ 70X | SIM 19* - Diamana D+ 80X | ZX7 - shafts TBD | Zipcore 50/54/58 S400 | NP2 Button Back

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Personally, I would go for one of the hydraulic ones like the list below. I have a similar one and what is great about them is once you clamp the shaft you can apply excess pressure so that once the epoxy bond breaks the head comes off without you having to worry about adding extra turns like you would have to do with a screw based one. Amazon.com: Buying Choices: Golf Club Shaft Puller Extractor for Steel & Graphite SHAFTS

Cobra DS-Adapt LS 10.5: Graphite Design Tour AD UB-7S (Backup: Cobra DS-Adapt X 10.5* : Ventus Red TR 7S)

Titleist TSR2 4W : Oban Kiyoshi Purple 75-S

Mizuno ST MAX 19*: Ventus Blue HB-8S

Mizuno ST MAX 22*: Recoil 95 F5

Wilson Staff CB 5-PW : Nippon Modus3 130-S

Cleveland RTX Zipcore 50, 54, 58: Nippon Modus3 115 Wedge

Meridian Tybee - 34"

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Never really seen this type before. Obviously you like yours, any draw backs? Does the hydraulics components wear down over time or need any tune ups? It's definitely interesting, I'll do some research on them.I noticed the one your mentioned. They make another one that is similar, but uses spring to load the tension and removes head/adapter when proper heat is applied. It's about $70 more, but was on sale last week for $30 more and I missed out on it.

I think I'm leaning toward the spring loaded or hydraulic style extractors because I can used minimal heat and being new to this process, I do not want ruin a graphite shaft.

Any thoughts on the reverse pull? It's interesting but I wonder if it puts more stress on the shaft?

SIM 9.75* - Diamana DF 60X | SIM 15* - Diamana D+ 70X | SIM 19* - Diamana D+ 80X | ZX7 - shafts TBD | Zipcore 50/54/58 S400 | NP2 Button Back

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@Hobbs I've had zero issues with my puller.
They're all basically variants of a similar design. A 1 or 2 ton bottle jack with a clamping and pushing mechanism added on. Mine has never met something it couldn't pull and I've never had a shaft damaged as long as I've had it.
Mine has never required any maintenance.

Cobra DS-Adapt LS 10.5: Graphite Design Tour AD UB-7S (Backup: Cobra DS-Adapt X 10.5* : Ventus Red TR 7S)

Titleist TSR2 4W : Oban Kiyoshi Purple 75-S

Mizuno ST MAX 19*: Ventus Blue HB-8S

Mizuno ST MAX 22*: Recoil 95 F5

Wilson Staff CB 5-PW : Nippon Modus3 130-S

Cleveland RTX Zipcore 50, 54, 58: Nippon Modus3 115 Wedge

Meridian Tybee - 34"

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https://www.golfworks.com/clubmakers-vise-graphite-shaft-extractor/p/ucmvgsr/

 

The one above is the one I use.  I don't pull a ton of shafts so this works quite well. 

Graphite Shaft ExtractorWhen I went to the Golfworks School, this is the one we used In class.  Seemed to work just fine with no complaints.  I will go with a bottle jack style next time. 

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Similar. Mine uses a bottle jack like that one but the clamping mechanism is different.

Cobra DS-Adapt LS 10.5: Graphite Design Tour AD UB-7S (Backup: Cobra DS-Adapt X 10.5* : Ventus Red TR 7S)

Titleist TSR2 4W : Oban Kiyoshi Purple 75-S

Mizuno ST MAX 19*: Ventus Blue HB-8S

Mizuno ST MAX 22*: Recoil 95 F5

Wilson Staff CB 5-PW : Nippon Modus3 130-S

Cleveland RTX Zipcore 50, 54, 58: Nippon Modus3 115 Wedge

Meridian Tybee - 34"

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This looks pretty good also.

I'll admit, I'm intrigued by the hydraulic pullers. There is one I located on youtube by a guy who post videos regarding club repair (mcGolf Custom Clubs). I do not know the maker of it, but I'd like to find out.

LL4EY0WCIHCP.jpg

SIM 9.75* - Diamana DF 60X | SIM 15* - Diamana D+ 70X | SIM 19* - Diamana D+ 80X | ZX7 - shafts TBD | Zipcore 50/54/58 S400 | NP2 Button Back

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I've got one of the Roberts bottle jack pullers and it works fine. A little crude but it was only $100 so that's okay.

I'd get a Mitchell if you have the money to burn. It's way cheaper than those reverse thrust jobbies so...

Ping G400 Max driver w/Aldila Rogue 125 Silver
Ping G425 5 wood & hybrid
Ping G30 irons w/Recoil 95S

PXG Gen3 XP irons w/MMT 80S
Ping Glide wedges w/Recoil 110S
Ping Redwood Anser - the "real deal!"

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Thank you all for the advice, it is very much appreciated. I noticed several people mentioned Mitchell Golf shaft pullers. Is Mitchell a more reliable brand compared to Golf Mechanix or golfworks?

Also, price is considered but I'm not afraid to pay for something that will be reliable and last a long time. I come from the area of do it right the first time, even when purchasing tools.

SIM 9.75* - Diamana DF 60X | SIM 15* - Diamana D+ 70X | SIM 19* - Diamana D+ 80X | ZX7 - shafts TBD | Zipcore 50/54/58 S400 | NP2 Button Back

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I looked at buying a extractor then I found a video on YouTube of how to do it without one works really well if you have a head for the shaft. It’s really pretty easy.

Callaway Paradym AI Smoke TD Ventus 6S Black Velocore
Callaway Paradym AI Smoke TD Velcore Black
TM Sim 5 wood Ventus Blue Velocore 8x
Mizuno S3 irons
Odyssey Stroke Lab Double Wide
Vokeys SM9 56,60
 

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Thanks again, I'm looking at mitchell golf website for more info.

I found several videos on youtube also. I'm not worried about using just for irons (I know I can remove the heads with heat and my hands) but mostly for adapter tips on graphite shafts. Like a true golfwrxer, I typically purchase several shafts and have to add/remove adapters to test out shafts.

I've most likely have ruled out the hydraulic pullers as I need an extractor that can be used in a vise. I'm not sure how to attached the hydraulic puller in a vise and if I can change it's orientation to a horizontal pull. Not sure a vertical pull will work on my workbench.

SIM 9.75* - Diamana DF 60X | SIM 15* - Diamana D+ 70X | SIM 19* - Diamana D+ 80X | ZX7 - shafts TBD | Zipcore 50/54/58 S400 | NP2 Button Back

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My hydraulic puller has an angle bracket bolted to the side of it that allows it to be used in a vice. That's actually how I use it.

Cobra DS-Adapt LS 10.5: Graphite Design Tour AD UB-7S (Backup: Cobra DS-Adapt X 10.5* : Ventus Red TR 7S)

Titleist TSR2 4W : Oban Kiyoshi Purple 75-S

Mizuno ST MAX 19*: Ventus Blue HB-8S

Mizuno ST MAX 22*: Recoil 95 F5

Wilson Staff CB 5-PW : Nippon Modus3 130-S

Cleveland RTX Zipcore 50, 54, 58: Nippon Modus3 115 Wedge

Meridian Tybee - 34"

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I'm the same way I have several upgraded shafts that I like to change the tips on. I have been pulling tips the last few weeks by this method on graphite shafts without any issues. I bought a butane mini torch so I can pin point the flame. Heat around the tip for 20 seconds. Then I put the head on the shaft and start twisting. Easy as that! Pulled the tips off of both my AD DI's and change to TM tips. Trying to pull the shaft out of the tip you have to have a extractor but you can twist it off easy. I have gotten good enough with it that I'm able to save the ferrules and not have to replace. The smaller torch helps with that.

Try it you will thank me for saving you all of the money.

Callaway Paradym AI Smoke TD Ventus 6S Black Velocore
Callaway Paradym AI Smoke TD Velcore Black
TM Sim 5 wood Ventus Blue Velocore 8x
Mizuno S3 irons
Odyssey Stroke Lab Double Wide
Vokeys SM9 56,60
 

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EEEK! Don't twist with a graphite shaft. You are just lucky that you haven't had a tip fail on you.

 

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Cobra DS-Adapt LS 10.5: Graphite Design Tour AD UB-7S (Backup: Cobra DS-Adapt X 10.5* : Ventus Red TR 7S)

Titleist TSR2 4W : Oban Kiyoshi Purple 75-S

Mizuno ST MAX 19*: Ventus Blue HB-8S

Mizuno ST MAX 22*: Recoil 95 F5

Wilson Staff CB 5-PW : Nippon Modus3 130-S

Cleveland RTX Zipcore 50, 54, 58: Nippon Modus3 115 Wedge

Meridian Tybee - 34"

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You aren't.

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Callaway Rogue ST Max 10.5°/Xcaliber SL 45 a flex,Callaway Rogue ST Max Heavenwood/Xcaliber FW a flex, Callaway Rogue ST Max 9w/Xcaliber FW a flex, Maltby KE4 TC IST 4h & 5h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 Tour+ 6-G/Xcaliber Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby Max Milled 54°/Xcaliber Wedge 85 r flex, Maltby Max Milled 58°/Xcaliber Wedge 85 r flex, Maltby Moment X Tour putter

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I have the first model of this one https://www.mitchellgolf.com/shop/re-shafting/shaft-pullers/steelclub-graphite-shaft-puller-pro-plus-model/

The shaft clamp is a little different and I don't have the multi diameter shaft piece. It works flawlessly. I bought it used 15yrs or so ago and haven't had any issues other than having to replace the rubber in the shaft clamp jaws once. I expect it will be more than useable long after I'm dead. As someone pointed out unless you are pulling a dozen or more shafts a day most of the ones linked are a good option.

Callaway Rogue ST Max 10.5°/Xcaliber SL 45 a flex,Callaway Rogue ST Max Heavenwood/Xcaliber FW a flex, Callaway Rogue ST Max 9w/Xcaliber FW a flex, Maltby KE4 TC IST 4h & 5h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 Tour+ 6-G/Xcaliber Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby Max Milled 54°/Xcaliber Wedge 85 r flex, Maltby Max Milled 58°/Xcaliber Wedge 85 r flex, Maltby Moment X Tour putter

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That's the same concept as the one I use. I've literally pulled thousands of shafts with mine and if you just wipe it down with WD40 it looks brand new. The think I like about the design is you can apply pressure to the head while heating so you never overheat it because you can feel exactly when the epoxy breaks. You can obviously keep pressure on the hydraulic ones but you just get better feel with the Mitchell design.

I've actually had people come to me who got carried away with putting too much force and not enough heat on a shaft with a hydraulic puller and it's interesting to see layers of of tip actually ripped away.

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