Shaft cutting advice

[omegafett]

I came across a set of used Ping G2 Irons in maroon dot (+5 degrees upright) and +2 length and thought they would be a good candidate set to try 1/single length irons.  My understanding is cutting them will make the lie flatter, but since they're +5 degrees already I was thinking they would be close to good.  Just epoxied my first set or heads and now this.  Are there any concerns I should look out for?  I was advised swing weight will not be the same, which im ok with.

[ShortGolfer]

I use a chop saw with an abrasive blade to cut graphite shafts.  Don't use a blade with teeth  or a tubing cutter with a sharp wheel  if the shaft is graphite.

 

An inexpensive option is to use a carbide abrasive blade instead of a hacksaw blade.

https://www.hirekogolf.com/the-nitty-gritty-to-cutting-graphite-golf-shafts-efficiently

Edited July 13, 2021 by ShortGolfer

[Nessism]

3 hours ago, omegafett said:

I came across a set of used Ping G2 Irons in maroon dot (+5 degrees upright) and +2 length and thought they would be a good candidate set to try 1/single length irons.  My understanding is cutting them will make the lie flatter, but since they're +5 degrees already I was thinking they would be close to good.  Just epoxied my first set or heads and now this.  Are there any concerns I should look out for?  I was advised swing weight will not be the same, which im ok with.

 

Ping irons of the G2 era were rated for "effective lie angle" not actual lie angle.  For each 1/2" of extra length Ping used a head with a flatter lie angle than the color code may suggest.  Bottom line: those +2" long irons use heads that are just a degree or so more upright than standard lie angle when used with stock length shafts.  Don't assume, measure the lie angle.  Also realize that because those clubs were built so long they will use the lightest insert weights available.  After chopping the shafts, or reshafting, the clubs will swingweight really light unless you compensate in some way.

[omegafett]

5 hours ago, Nessism said:

Don't assume, measure the lie angle.  Also realize that because those clubs were built so long they will use the lightest insert weights available.  After chopping the shafts, or reshafting, the clubs will swingweight really light unless you compensate in some way.

 

Thanks for the info!  This is good to know.  I'm getting a good idea how to approach this.   

[MountainKing]

Swing weight, overall weight, lie angles and more than likely lofts\distance gapping will all be off without adjustments.   Single length irons are not as simple as just cutting the shaft to one length across the board. 

Edited July 14, 2021 by MountainKing

[mcounci2]

The swing weight will be VERY different through the set.  Irons are generally 0.5" apart, which is ~3SW points.   If you pick 7i and it's, say, D2, PW is going to be E1 and 4i is going to be C3.  I believe you'll be quite unsatisfied with that spread.  If not, have at.

Edited July 14, 2021 by mcounci2

[Guest RobS]

Hate to be a naysayer but I don't see this working out too well.  Don't worry about what cutting the shafts does to the effective lie angle because you're going to have to bend every head to the same lie angle.  The key point in going to single length is consistency.....same length, same lie angle, same weight and balance.  In addition to bending all the heads to the same lie angle, the weights need to be adjusted to match which means adding and removing weight.  Then you have the issue of shafts.  Modifying a tradition set of irons to single length is usually going to leave you with a ruined set of irons.