Accuracy of Online Swing Weight Calculators

[williaza]

How accurate are the various online swing weight calculators? Usable? or Waste of time? Thank you!

[mcounci2]

They're only as accurate as your measurements

[J.Bex]

16 minutes ago, mcounci2 said:

They're only as accurate as your measurements

+1

Leaderboard is the most popular it seems:

http://www.leaderboard.com/SWINGWEIGHT

Okrasa is another:

http://golf.okrasa.eu/clubs/swingweight-en/sw-measurement/

 

Excel calculator (I got identical readings to Okrasa, precise down to a decimal... vs Leaderboard which rounds to the nearest whole number and was a little annoying to me to have to let it settle on a number):

Same inputs as online - total weight and balance point.  Plus options to see the effects of adding/subtracting weight anywhere, and choking down or extending.  The math is the same as a scale's math.  It's just faster and easier with a real scale.

[ohioglfr]

I've used Value Golf's SW calculator for ballpark calculations, but I always dry-fit components on a scale to confirm for sure any counterweighting needed.

[Bobbyjoegrooves]

I tested leaderboard on my phone while in a clubmakers shop against his scale with a few clubs, and they were within half a point at worst(most were closer). Post above mentioned leaderboard  displaying whole points only. That is true in box at top, but lower on result screen is a horizontal scale that shows more precise weight.

Edited January 16, 2022 by Bobbyjoegrooves

[mc2]

Does anyone know if heavier grips will "trick" these online swingweight calculators like they trick real swingweight machines?

For example, I cut down a Ventus Blue 6S by 1 inch, added a 78g jumbo grip, and inserted into a TSR2 head with a +6g weight in the back, and it came out as C9.3 (which would explain a few things if true!)

I used this one: https://www.hirekogolf.com/golf-clubfitting-assembled-swingweight-calculator

 

Total weight was 354g, balance point exactly 31 inches. Have I done anything wrong here?

[Howard_Jones]

6 hours ago, mc2 said:

Does anyone know if heavier grips will "trick" these online swingweight calculators like they trick real swingweight machines?

For example, I cut down a Ventus Blue 6S by 1 inch, added a 78g jumbo grip, and inserted into a TSR2 head with a +6g weight in the back, and it came out as C9.3 (which would explain a few things if true!)

I used this one: https://www.hirekogolf.com/golf-clubfitting-assembled-swingweight-calculator

 

Total weight was 354g, balance point exactly 31 inches. Have I done anything wrong here?

YES, but what are you trying to achive?
If you try to get to a certain SW value ,because you think thats what you should use, you could not be more wrong, and will fail no matter instrument used.

Here is how to do it right
- Use what ever shaft, head and grip that works for you, and tune head wgt untill it works like you want it to. During that session, do not think of or measure values at all. Go by your own "human scale" where you judge it all by "too little or too much" and pay attention to impact patterns.
- When done, we can use this intruments (not before), and NO MATTER what value it returns, will be the value you shall use on THIS set, with this components, and that include grip weight.

This value CAN NOT be reused if you change something (like grip wgt), and it can not be used on other clubs in your bag. For each group of clubs (Irons, hybrids, woods) , we have to tune up 1 club, then measure the value, and build the others to that value, still ONLY when we use the same components and limited to THAT group of clubs.

So, if someone told you that SW "should be" or you think you need a certain value, its ALL wrong, so forget it all, and do it like i sugggest here, then all this online calculators will be just as presice as you can measure total weight and balance point (se below for how to do that)

If you have no experience with the tuning job needed before you measure SW value, just follow my DIY driver tune up.
Its valid for all clubs, and is written as a tutorial som anyone can make it right.

How to measure BP correct DIY
- Use a vise, a knife (not too sharp) and some painters tape
Hold the club on 1 finger, and try to find the aproximate BP 
Place some painters tape around the shaft at that point

Now you place the knife in the vise, with the edge up
- Put the club with the tape on the edge of the knife, and move it back or forward, untill you can see that the club can now rest in perfect balance.
- Now PUSH the club down against the edge of the knife, (not to hard), so the knife edge makes a mark on the tape, (not the shaft, thats why we placed that tape there in the first place)

Now find a table who starts with its end against a wall.
Place your ruler on the table, and push it in against the wall where point zero is. Now place the club with its grip in against that wall, push it into the wall, so both the ruler and the club has the wall as point zero

Now you can read what the ruler say about the distance from the wall to the clubs BP. That number (in milimeter, do not use imperial), plus the total wgt of the club in grams is what you need to enter into those online calcks.
I suggest the one at leaderboard.

If you do it like this, no SW scale can do it better, so its just as correct as example Mitchell Tour gauge i used. But again, SW values can never be a target before tune up is done, shooting for a value will fail, so do the tune up, measure the value, and use THAT value for the other clubs in the set.
 

 

Edited February 21 by Howard_Jones

[Stuart_G]

11 hours ago, mc2 said:

 

Total weight was 354g, balance point exactly 31 inches. Have I done anything wrong here?

 

Nothing wrong in getting the value.   The problem you might run into is interpreting the meaning or importance of that value or thinking you can use that calculated value to help you "fix" the club.    That value you calculated should not be used for that purpose.  Instead, just follow Howard's tutorial.  That's the only sure way to get where you want to go.

Edited February 21 by Stuart_G

[Golf Pig]

22 hours ago, mc2 said:

Does anyone know if heavier grips will "trick" these online swingweight calculators like they trick real swingweight machines?

 

On 1/16/2022 at 9:07 AM, mcounci2 said:

They're only as accurate as your measurements

 

On 1/16/2022 at 9:27 AM, joostin said:

The math is the same as a scale's math.  It's just faster and easier with a real scale.

 

As Howard and Stuart explained, the SW result is irrelevant if you're trying to get to a certain value. But to add to the discussion I think it's worth pointing out that theoretically the SW result from any of the online calculators should be the exact same as using a machine. The math is identical. All the online calculators use total weight and balance point as inputs. You can be somewhat off on the total weight but even a slight error in the balance point measurement will cause the SW to be significantly off. Calculating SW is straight forward:

 

SW = total weight in grams * (balance point in inches - 14)

 

The resulting torque value is expressed in inch-grams. To convert this to lorythmic swingweight (D0, etc.), each SW point is equal to 50 inch-grams (or 49.61) with A0 = 4550 (or 4564.12).

 

Sliding weight scales calculate the torque as (sliding weight in grams * distance of sliding weight from 14" fulcrum) when the club is balanced. Digital scales usually have either 1 or 2 load cells that measure the force of the club at specific points. The Auditor machine has 1 load cell that measures the upward force at the butt when the club is placed on a 14" fulcrum. The resulting inch-grams is simply that force in grams * 14. Digital scales with 2 load cells are really measuring the balance point of the club: (club head end weight / total weight) * length between the load cells. The resulting torque is derived just like the online calculators: total weight * (balance point - 14).

 

http://www.tutelman.com/golf/design/swingwt1.php

 

http://www.tutelman.com/golf/measure/digitalSwingweightScale4.php#theory

Edited February 21 by Golf Pig

[Sdrum]

On 2/20/2025 at 11:00 PM, Howard_Jones said:

Now you can read what the ruler say about the distance from the wall to the clubs BP. That number (in milimeter, do not use imperial), plus the total wgt of the club in grams is what you need to enter into those online calcks.
I suggest the one at leaderboard.

I am using this approach for an upcoming build, and in my dry calculations I am getting D3 for most of the clubs which is what I'm after.  But the 6 iron and 9 iron balance points "fall out of the pattern" from the rest of the set, giving me D5 results.  For example, the total weight of the 5 iron is 416 grams. The 6 iron is 424 grams.  But, the balance point for each are very close to each other: 735 and 734 mm respectfully.

 

Head weights average about 8 grams from one club to the next, and the cut shaft weights are all within 1 to 2 grams of each other.  I really can't figure out why these two clubs have extremely different balance points.  Does anyone have any insights on this?

[Howard_Jones]

1 hour ago, Sdrum said:

I am using this approach for an upcoming build, and in my dry calculations I am getting D3 for most of the clubs which is what I'm after.  But the 6 iron and 9 iron balance points "fall out of the pattern" from the rest of the set, giving me D5 results.  For example, the total weight of the 5 iron is 416 grams. The 6 iron is 424 grams.  But, the balance point for each are very close to each other: 735 and 734 mm respectfully.

 

Head weights average about 8 grams from one club to the next, and the cut shaft weights are all within 1 to 2 grams of each other.  I really can't figure out why these two clubs have extremely different balance points.  Does anyone have any insights on this?

Do you measure BP with or without grips?
- Assuming with grips, then check actual play lenght (grips might not be fully seated, and extend the club), that will also move the clubs BP as measured from the butt.

8 grams? thats high if you have a 4/8" set, and like all to be D3, you are by that in direction of a progressive SW value with about 0.5 SWP per club.
(#5 as D3, #6 as D3.5, #7 as D4, #8 as D4.5 and #9 as D5)

So, measure play lenghts...(all clubs, take notes----1 mm = 0,25 SWP
- have you adjusted loft and lie inbetween build and SW measurements? 1 flat = 0.25 SWP

Edited July 30 by Howard_Jones

[Sdrum]

18 minutes ago, Howard_Jones said:

Do you measure BP with or without grips?
- Assuming with grips, then check actual play lenght (grips might not be fully seated, and extend the club), that will also move the clubs BP as measured from the butt.

8 grams? thats high if you have a 4/8" set, and like all to be D3, you are by that in direction of a progressive SW value with about 0.5 SWP per club.
(#5 as D3, #6 as D3.5, #7 as D4, #8 as D4.5 and #9 as D5)

So, measure play lenghts...(all clubs, take notes----1 mm = 0,25 SWP
- have you adjusted loft and lie inbetween build and SW measurements? 1 flat = 0.25 SWP

 

Thanks, Howard!

 

Yes, my measurements were with pulled shafts with grips still installed, and a taped ferrule to get as close as I can.  I was hoping to not have to take the grips off, but maybe I'll have to do that.

 

I'll check the play lengths and grips as you suggest and give it a another go.

 

I haven't adjusted loft and lie yet.  I intended to get these adjusted back to original spec after the shafts are assembled.

 

I didn't think 8 gram head weight increments was anything crazy.  I refer to this PDF (https://advancedballstriking.com/Swing_weights.pdf) as a baseline, albeit it is old.  It illustrates 7 gram increments in the irons with a constant D0 SW.  

 

Thanks again!

 

 

 

 

 

[Stuart_G]

40 minutes ago, Sdrum said:

Yes, my measurements were with pulled shafts with grips still installed,

 

If you bought pulled shafts with grips on them - it couldn't hurt to pull the grips - if for no other reason than to make sure there is no extensions and the inside of the shafts are clear of any old epoxy (or tape) from the previous build.

[Sdrum]

1 minute ago, Stuart_G said:

If you bought pulled shafts with grips on them - it couldn't hurt to pull the grips - if for no other reason than to make sure there is no extensions and the inside of the shafts are clear of any old epoxy (or tape) from the previous build.

Thanks, Stuart and sorry I wasn't clear.  These were pulls from a previous build of mine.  I know I didn't use extensions but I've come across that fun surprise before with an ebay purchase.

 

I used these shafts in project a few years back, and don't have my notes from then. The deeper I get in this project, the more obvious it becomes that I need to look under the hood.  Thanks again for your input!  Love this community for contributions from the likes of you and Howard.

[Howard_Jones]

1 hour ago, Sdrum said:

 

Thanks, Howard!

 

Yes, my measurements were with pulled shafts with grips still installed, and a taped ferrule to get as close as I can.  I was hoping to not have to take the grips off, but maybe I'll have to do that.

 

I'll check the play lengths and grips as you suggest and give it a another go.

 

I haven't adjusted loft and lie yet.  I intended to get these adjusted back to original spec after the shafts are assembled.

 

I didn't think 8 gram head weight increments was anything crazy.  I refer to this PDF (https://advancedballstriking.com/Swing_weights.pdf) as a baseline, albeit it is old.  It illustrates 7 gram increments in the irons with a constant D0 SW.  

 

Thanks again!

 

 

 

 

 

Standard SW matched set, NO MATTER SW value, has a average close to 7 grams per club.

A standard #3 iron head is plus minus 240 gram, and if wre for the sake of example say that delivers D1, then 244 grams is expected to be close to D3, so a higher SW in a set means ALL heads is above standard weight, but still with a difference of average 7 grams club to club head.

The rule of thumb for SW is usless, but here we can use it to illustrate
If 2 grams is 1 SWP, and we change head wgt progression from 7 to 8 grams, we have also moved SW progression by 0.5 points per club, since 1 gram is average 0.5 SWP

Before you rip of grips, measure play lengths, that will tell if is PL thats off, who can be both shafts cut to long, or a grip not fully seated, sometimes not fully inserted into the hosel. (1.25" is expected insert for most heads).

Edited July 30 by Howard_Jones