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Reshafting irons, swing weights, etc.


Mrgreen36

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Pulled shafts from my mp18 mmc's.

 

Weighed heads

 

4i   247g

5i   252g

6i   259g

7i   265g

8i   275g

9i   285g

Pw  289g

 

New shafts are modus 120 S

 

Shafts are 1/4" over standard (my preference on irons) 

 

Everything swingweights at pretty much a D2, (had to add tip weight to fli high 3i and my 5i)  the 9 and PW weight at a d4 and D6.  I used a rubber band to hold grips to shafts, grips are lamkin midsize,  they are 60g within 1g of each other. 

 

My only solution to dropping those swing weights in 9 and PW would be counter/grip end wight?  I could put those heads in my vertical mill and make them go on a diet? 

 

The shafts I pulled are some form of DG, I had thought s300 but they are heavier than what s300 call out.  The 120s are significantly lighter, but swing weights seem to be basically the same for most of them. 

 

I will probably assemble as they are, see how the 9 and PW feel and if I need to counter weight it will just cost me a couple grips. 

 

Am I missing something? 

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1 hour ago, Mrgreen36 said:

My only solution to dropping those swing weights in 9 and PW would be counter/grip end wight?  I could put those heads in my vertical mill and make them go on a diet? 

 

Butt weight might make the scale happy, but that doesn't mean it will necessarily get those clubs to match the feel of the other clubs.  The scale was never designed or intended to manage butt weight changes so it's hard to predict how it will effect the feel of the club.   You're taking a club that has a heavier swing weight and adding more static weight to increase that aspect of the heft.

 

Drilling material from the bottom of the hosel bore is the generally preferred method for removing weight from the head - although not necessarily the only option.

 

 

1 hour ago, Mrgreen36 said:

The shafts I pulled are some form of DG, I had thought s300 but they are heavier than what s300 call out.  The 120s are significantly lighter, but swing weights seem to be basically the same for most of them. 

 

That's normal.  That "rule" about the effect of shaft weight on swing weight seems to ignore the fact that the designers aren't usually stupid and can manipulate the shaft balance point to manage swing weight contributions.

 

 

 

Edited by Stuart_G
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I’m doing almost the exact same thing as you next week except I don’t have your skills and I’m paying someone. 
 

are you going with a 38” or 38 1/4” 5 iron?

Titleist TSR2 | Titleist 915F 3W | Titleist 915H 2H | Titleist 915H 4H | Mizuno JPX-850 Forged 4-GW | Cleveland RTX-3 54, 60 | Scotty Cameron Select Newport 2 | Titleist Pro V1

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56 minutes ago, Stuart_G said:

 

Butt weight might make the scale happy, but that doesn't mean it will necessarily get those clubs to match the feel of the other clubs.  The scale was never designed or intended to manage butt weight changes so it's hard to predict how it will effect the feel of the club.   You're taking a club that has a heavier swing weight and adding more static weight to increase that aspect of the heft.

 

Drilling material from the bottom of the hosel bore is the generally preferred method for removing weight from the head - although not necessarily the only option.

 

 

 

That's normal.  That "rule" about the effect of shaft weight on swing weight seems to ignore the fact that the designers aren't usually stupid and can manipulate the shaft balance point to manage swing weight contributions.

 

 

 

 

 

I will just have to get out and see how those two clubs feel. I have no issues doing any sort of machine work, I rebuild equipment and machinery and have a fairly decent machine shop. 

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6 hours ago, Mrgreen36 said:

 

 

I will just have to get out and see how those two clubs feel. I have no issues doing any sort of machine work, I rebuild equipment and machinery and have a fairly decent machine shop. 

 

No question it's something that should be adjusted by feel first.  One can frequently get away with heavier swing weights in the shorter clubs than they can in the longer irons.   Just make sure that there is no drastic change in feel between those and the next lighter clubs.   IF the PW-9 do well and aren't a problem - you may want to consider make the change from the heavier to lighter swing weight a bit more gradual instead of having a sudden jump from one club to the next.    Lead tape can help you figure out what kind of jumps might work best.

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8 hours ago, Mrgreen36 said:

 

 

I will probably assemble as they are, see how the 9 and PW feel and if I need to counter weight it will just cost me a couple grips. 

 

 

 

Yes, do this. And a grip removal tool will allow you to save grip (s).

 

grip removal tool.png

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Cleveland TL310 10.5* driver

Cleveland HB Launcher 15* 3-wood

Srixon H65  19* 3 hybrid and 22* 4 hybrid

Mizuno MP63 5 thru 9-iron

Cleveland RTX 48-52-56-64 wedges

Scotty Cameron Classic III putter

 

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21 hours ago, Stuart_G said:

 

No question it's something that should be adjusted by feel first.  One can frequently get away with heavier swing weights in the shorter clubs than they can in the longer irons.   Just make sure that there is no drastic change in feel between those and the next lighter clubs.   IF the PW-9 do well and aren't a problem - you may want to consider make the change from the heavier to lighter swing weight a bit more gradual instead of having a sudden jump from one club to the next.    Lead tape can help you figure out what kind of jumps might work best.

 

9 and PW honestly felt good where they were.  I may add a little lead tape to the 8 and 7, possibly more clubs.  I am happy with the modus 120, feel great with my smoother tempo, plus I feel like I can easily get more out of one if needed. 

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