2024 Ultimate Golf Heavy Scotland Trip (Advice)

[crcraig]

My trips to Scotland and Ireland were quite a while ago, but here's what I found.  The Scots must love their early tee times.  Almost every single tee time that we received at "private" clubs was in the 9-11am time frame.  (This was in June, so we're talking about maximum daylight.)  All the members went out early.  In Ireland it was the opposite.  I kept getting 6:30-8:30am times, and it seemed like all the members played later.  I guess the Irish like to sleep in.

 

As far as friendliness, both were fine, but the Irish always seemed to step it up.  I stayed in a lot of B&Bs, and the weirdest thing for me was all the Irish B&B proprietors that were truly, truly interested in how my trip was going, where had I been, and, most importantly, was I having a good time?  I come from New England where, for the most part, we speak only when we must (I'm only half kidding), so all of this interest felt strange.  But I got used to it, and really came to appreciate their concern.

[Mullenboy]

22 hours ago, ND2005 said:

See I was the opposite - I liked feeling like a guest at a private club and I thought the hospitality matched that - especially at clubs like Troon and Muirfield 

 

Troon in recent years has seemed to require the 36 hole day with lunch in the middle that Muirfield does and I loved each!  That was fun stuff.  What I am talking about more is places like Portrush, County Down, a several others in Scotland and England where there are separate members and non-members clubhouses, grills, etc.  It's not a big deal but to me it's just not quite as fun as most places in Ireland (and lots of others in Scotland and England) where you are welcomed as a long-lost cousin with no restrictions.  But also like the last post says, it's a first world golf issue.  Not a big deal.  It's all great.

[kevinricci]

I've gone to the Highlands, St. Andrews and East Lothian on golf trips. I much prefer staying where you can play many great courses all within 20 minutes drive. It's tough driving over there between driving on the left, round-a-bouts, gas a $2.50 per liter ($9.50/gallon), speed cameras everywhere and unfamiliar traffic. It really is.  

[Mullenboy]

This is all right on.  To each his own re private club treatment... these days I get enough of that at home, and it was just so strikingly different when it happened in the UK, it stood out for me.  And for me not in a good way.  But hammergolf nails it.  I never felt any rudeness.. just a touch more friendliness in Ireland than the UK. In general.

[golfday]

On 7/22/2022 at 12:46 AM, TTN said:

Long time reader first time poster. I'm planning to head to Scotland in May 2024 and was looking for any tips/advice... First and foremost, this is a lifetime bucket list trip. I'm not sure I'm ever going to get back there so its very heavy golf on purpose. I'm going with my best friend and our dad's are going to join for days 4-7 at St. Andrews and Muirfield. I'm sub 40 and in good shape (for a working dad) so I'm not worried about playing 36 so many days. I know that it may make me play a little worse and skip some sightseeing/downtime, but getting to so many historic courses is the priority. Re: Golf plan I will apply in September and do the Lottery for the Old Course if my advance app isn't selected. Plan to play some combination of Old Course/New Course/Kingsbarn/Crail/Elie for a total of 6 rounds across 3 days. Actual daily tee times clearly tbd. Day 9 I know Saturday's are non visitor days at Prestwick and Royal Troon, but I know members who can host. Talking to two operators who will provide transportation so the long drives will be done for us and we don't have to have a rental car. Thanks for feedback and insights from those who have done it before...

 

Schedule

Day 1 (Friday): Land Abderdeen ~1pm. Play Muracar ~5:30pm - Stay Marcliffe in Aberdeen

Day 2 (Saturday): AM Cruden Bay, PM Royal Aberdeen - Drive to Carnoustie Hotel for the night. 

Day 3 (Sunday): AM Panmure, PM Carnoustie - Drive post dinner to St. Andrews stay Russacks

Day 4 (Monday): AM Kingsbarn/Crail/Elie, PM Old Course/New Course - Stay Russacks

Day 5 (Tuesday): AM Kingsbarn/Crail/Elie, PM Old Course/New Course - Stay Russacks

Day 6 (Wednesday): AM Kingsbarn/Crail/Elie, PM Old Course/New Course - Drive post dinner to Marine North Berwick

Day 7 (Thursday): AM Muirfield, PM Muirfield - Stay at Marine North Berwick

Day 8 (Friday): AM Kilspindie, PM North Berwick - Drive to Prestwick post dinner stay at Marine Troon

Day 9 (Saturday) AM Prestwick, PM Royal Troon - Drive to Inverness post d on inner stay at Kingsmill

Day 10 (Sunday): AM Castle Stuart, PM Royal Dornoch - Stay at Kingsmill

Day 11 (Monday): 7am flight back to the US from Inverness. 

 

Questions/Feedback

+ While I'm confident on the golf I am looking for any and all feedback on 19th hole bars, restaurants and hotels... Or any other must dos (Himalayans putting etc)

+ Anyone know if R&A members have access to setting up tee times on the Old Course in advance? 

+ Is it true the R&A got rid of unaccompanied visitors? Heard a member used to be able to get you a tour/access, but it was recently changed so the member has to be on site with you now. 

+ St. Andrews Golf Club Temp Access. I've heard you can have a member nominate you for a few day temp membership which gives you access to use their facilities (lunch/locker room etc.). Anyone done this? Have any feedback/color?

You'll want to check to see if this is even possible. Some of these courses only offer visitor times on certain days and at certain times of day. Given you kind of have to take what they'll give you it can get difficult to arrange 36 hole days and include travel.

 

From personal experience I've found that even on a bucket list trip, playing this much golf with travel included will turn the golf into a chore at some point. All the courses start to blend together and you'll be tired from all the walking / lack of sleep. Also on a trip of this speed you do miss seeing the charm of the towns you're in and you really don't experience the culture at all - that's a real shame because places like Edinburgh, St. Andrews, etc. are wonderful places worth experiencing. 

 

My advice would be to cut the courses down some or extend the trip. Also, if you can, arranging to fly from EDI or Glasgow might save you time and money. Doing a multi-destination plane ticket to two small airports may increase your travel time and flight costs.

 

On the positive side this might be logistically doable and it's a great set of courses and hotels. 

[TTN]

Appreciate all the feedback during my early planning stages. Got a great list of bars/restaurants to augment the golf. 

 

Just locked in the final itinerary/tee times for those who might care. Yes, lots of golf, but that's what makes me happy. 

 

Day 1: Land at Aberdeen Airport at 1:40 pm. 4 pm tee time at Cudren Bay. Spend the night at The Chester Hotel, dinner at the Dutch Mill. 

Day 2: AM Golf Murcar Links, Lunch Royal Aberdeen, PM Golf Royal Aberdeen. Transfer to Carnoustie Golf Hotel, Dinner at Rookery. 

Day 3: AM Golf Panmure, Lunch @ Carnoutsite, PM Golf Carnoustie, Transfer to Russacks St. Andrew dinner Eighteen

Day 4: AM Golf New Course Lunch Dunvegan PM Golf Old Course, 19th hole Jiggers Inn, Dinner Steak Barn, Post Dinner Drinks Road Hole Bar

Day 5: AM Golf Kingsbarn, Lunch The St. Andrews Golf Club, PM St. Andrews town exploration, 19th Hole drinks Royal & Ancient, Dinner Forgans, Post Dinner drinks One Under Bar

Day 6: Mid-day Transfer, PM Golf North Berwick West Links, Dinner Duck's Inn, Lodging at the Marine Hotel

Day 7: Muirfield 36 golf experience, Dinner Bass Rock Bar, Marine Hotel

Day 8: early drive down to AM Golf Prestwick Golf Club, Lunch Cardinal Room Prestick, PM Golf Royal Troon, Dinner Red Lion, late drive back to Marine Hotel 

Day 9: AM Golf Kilspindie, Lunch North Berwick, PM Golf North Berwick, Dinner Duck's Inn. Late Transfer to Kingsmill Hotel Inverness

Day 10: AM Golf Royal Dornoch, Lunch Royal Dornoch, PM Golf Royal Dornoch, Dinner Rocpool

Day 11: Fly out

 

I just wanted to say thanks to everyone for all the feedback/input. Understand that everyone has different travel styles. I know this is too much golf for most, but for me, a golf-crazed younger guy, I couldn't think of something more fun.  All in all, 17 rounds of golf with 3 days of 18 holes and 7 days of 36 holes. I think only playing 18 on days 5 and 6 in the middle of the trip is a good change. Thanks to all

[scott_Donald]

Why the Dutch mill dinner in Aberdeen?

 

I am friends with the owner, literally lived in the back garden of it for 19 years and eaten there so many times including every Friday for about 15 of them but the food is distinctly average. I have not eaten there in 18 months. 
 

from the places I know there you have got higher end taste.

 

when you have lunch at ragc have the chicken tenders(Scott recommended them) or fish tenders(Tim recommended them) the staff will know!

[TTN]

@scott_Donald, thanks for the advice. I was choosing the Dutch Mill for dinner because we're trying to have some standard easy pub nights and then some nicer nights (Rocpool/Eighteen). I'm a guy who drinks Coors Lights not Hazy en vogue IPAs. Our nicer dinners on this trip are more due to the experience views around St. Andrews, or celebratory last night. Most of our meals are Steak Barn, Dunvegan, Ducks Inn type. Good experiences, good food, good people. Doesn't need to be too fancy. The drive down from Cruden Bay post golf also we wanted something we know would be open around 8:30pm or so; a lot of the other dining options start to wind down on the earlier side. 

[scott_Donald]

28 minutes ago, TTN said:

@scott_Donald, thanks for the advice. I was choosing the Dutch Mill for dinner because we're trying to have some standard easy pub nights and then some nicer nights (Rocpool/Eighteen). I'm a guy who drinks Coors Lights not Hazy en vogue IPAs. Our nicer dinners on this trip are more due to the experience views around St. Andrews, or celebratory last night. Most of our meals are Steak Barn, Dunvegan, Ducks Inn type. Good experiences, good food, good people. Doesn't need to be too fancy. The drive down from Cruden Bay post golf also we wanted something we know would be open around 8:30pm or so; a lot of the other dining options start to wind down on the earlier side. 

 

Fair enough, I feel bad for saying that.

 

Have a look at Number 10s, another friend owns that and the food is far better.

 

You can eat there 2030, have a drink on the walk back to the Chester at the Dutcher. 

 

How many of you are there on the trip?

 

Tenants is the local lager unless you go down the brew dog ways... I don't drink so can't vouch for any but Tenants is the main beer here!

[TTN]

@scott_Donald, thanks for that insight. I will look into those dining options.

 

Me and my best friend from school (40-year-olds) are making the trip together since we live across the country and have young families that prevent us from getting together often. Our dads (early 70s) are flying in to meet us at St. Andrews, doing days 4-7 with us (STA Old/New, Kingsbarns, North Berwick West & Muirfield). And then we finish off the trip, the two of us. 

[hammergolf]

4 hours ago, TTN said:

Appreciate all the feedback during my early planning stages. Got a great list of bars/restaurants to augment the golf. 

 

Just locked in the final itinerary/tee times for those who might care. Yes, lots of golf, but that's what makes me happy. 

 

Day 1: Land at Aberdeen Airport at 1:40 pm. 4 pm tee time at Cudren Bay. Spend the night at The Chester Hotel, dinner at the Dutch Mill. 

Day 2: AM Golf Murcar Links, Lunch Royal Aberdeen, PM Golf Royal Aberdeen. Transfer to Carnoustie Golf Hotel, Dinner at Rookery. 

Day 3: AM Golf Panmure, Lunch @ Carnoutsite, PM Golf Carnoustie, Transfer to Russacks St. Andrew dinner Eighteen

Day 4: AM Golf New Course Lunch Dunvegan PM Golf Old Course, 19th hole Jiggers Inn, Dinner Steak Barn, Post Dinner Drinks Road Hole Bar

Day 5: AM Golf Kingsbarn, Lunch The St. Andrews Golf Club, PM St. Andrews town exploration, 19th Hole drinks Royal & Ancient, Dinner Forgans, Post Dinner drinks One Under Bar

Day 6: Mid-day Transfer, PM Golf North Berwick West Links, Dinner Duck's Inn, Lodging at the Marine Hotel

Day 7: Muirfield 36 golf experience, Dinner Bass Rock Bar, Marine Hotel

Day 8: early drive down to AM Golf Prestwick Golf Club, Lunch Cardinal Room Prestick, PM Golf Royal Troon, Dinner Red Lion, late drive back to Marine Hotel 

Day 9: AM Golf Kilspindie, Lunch North Berwick, PM Golf North Berwick, Dinner Duck's Inn. Late Transfer to Kingsmill Hotel Inverness

Day 10: AM Golf Royal Dornoch, Lunch Royal Dornoch, PM Golf Royal Dornoch, Dinner Rocpool

Day 11: Fly out

 

I just wanted to say thanks to everyone for all the feedback/input. Understand that everyone has different travel styles. I know this is too much golf for most, but for me, a golf-crazed younger guy, I couldn't think of something more fun.  All in all, 17 rounds of golf with 3 days of 18 holes and 7 days of 36 holes. I think only playing 18 on days 5 and 6 in the middle of the trip is a good change. Thanks to all

Looks like a great trip, but if you can make it through Day 8 and Day 9 with all the driving you’ll have it beat. Looking forward to reading about your trip!

[TTN]

@hammergolf will be sure to report back. We used a travel agent to secure tee times, etc., so we have someone driving us. Otherwise, if we ere self-driving, it wouldn't be viable. Looking forward to sipping some Tenants and using the Theragun to survive. Also counting on the adrenaline of playing these amazing courses after years of dreaming to carry me. (Along with caddies doing the real work). 

[hammergolf]

3 minutes ago, TTN said:

@hammergolf will be sure to report back. We used a travel agent to secure tee times, etc., so we have someone driving us. Otherwise, if we ere self-driving, it wouldn't be viable. Looking forward to sipping some Tenants and using the Theragun to survive. Also counting on the adrenaline of playing these amazing courses after years of dreaming to carry me. (Along with caddies doing the real work). 

Tenants makes everything better!

[NDSwim]

I’m doing a similar trip next summer just not as many courses and areas around Scotland.  We couldn’t get on Muirfield so pivoted to head to the Highlands after being in St Andrews for 5 days.

 

when are you going?

[TTN]

@NDSwim June 1st-June 11th. What are you playing in Highlands? Sooo much amazing golf and not enough time. I'm crazy, so playing a lot of golf, and all I'm thinking about is how to find a way back and play so much I'm missing. Western Gailes, Gullane, Narin, Cabot Highlands, Brora, Machrihanish, and so on......

[NDSwim]

Brora, Cabot Highlands and Royal Dornoch.  Might add one more round somewhere if guys still want more golf.

 

A few of us are flying in a few days early to make sure one, we do not get flight delays and two, see if a last minute round at Muirfield and/or North Berwick somehow opens up.  If not, will probably find a round or two around Edinburgh.

 

We are going July 9-19.  Were you already able to make reservations at Ducks Inn?

[TTN]

@NDSwim I made reservations at the nicer places (mainly Eighteen) through the hotel. Pub-style restaurants I haven't tried it yet. a) I assume they aren't open, and b) given how late we are eating most nights (after 8pm) and that it's just 2 of us for most of the meals I, maybe naively, think we should be fine. I was thinking of looking into it on January 1 when we are a little closer

 

Yeah, a North Berwick round would be so epic. How many guys are you? If you can split it into threesomes, I think Thousand Greens has a strong hit rate (~22%) at North Berwick West. 

[NDSwim]

Sounds good, I’ll check it out.

[Golferpaul]

On 7/21/2022 at 11:46 PM, TTN said:

 

+ While I'm confident on the golf I am looking for any and all feedback on 19th hole bars, restaurants and hotels... Or any other must dos (Himalayans putting etc)

 

As others have said, you will be so busy playing 36 per day and driving that you might not have much time in 19th holes and bars.

 

I've been to Scotland several times and we only play 36 at Muirfield since that is their package (Fourball in the am, Foursome in the pm).  The afternoon foursome is not much fun as we appear to be racing.

[bigeasygator]

Looks like you dialed the golf back some, which I think is a wise choice.  Still seems pretty ambitious to me with the amount of golf you're playing.  Don't know how much experience you have playing links golf, but throw in some wind and rain and these rounds can be physically and mentally exhausting.  36 a day plus travel plus checking in and out of hotels is a lot.  It's not so much that you won't have time for 19th holes, dinners, etc...it's about how you will be feeling during those times.  I would expect a lot of yawns, low energy, and short nights.  Just speaking from personal experience.  Last thing I'd say is I know you sound committed to it and very well may be fine with a schedule that doesn't leave much downtime, but how committed are your travel partners to it?  FWIW, my Scotland itinerary from last year was as follows:

 

• Day 1 - Land in Edinburgh, explore city, dinner at Devil's Advocate
• Day 2 - Drive to Inverness, stop in Pitlochry for lunch and distillery tour, check into Kingsmills
• Day 3 - Round at Dornoch, dinner at River House 
• Day 4 - No golf, sightseeing around the Highlands
• Day 5 - Round at Castle Stuart, dinner at Rocpool (which was fantastic)
• Day 6 - Check out, Drive to St Andrews, stayed at Fairmont, drinks at Dunvegan, dinner at Forgans
• Day 7 - Golf at Kingsbarns, dinner at Adamson
• Day 8 - Golf at Castle Course, drinks at Jigger Inn
• Day 9 - Check out of Fairmont, Golf at Carnoustie, check in at Apex City, Edinburgh
• Day 10 - Golf at Turnberry, drinks at McLaren's, dinner at Fin and Grape
• Day 11 - Golf at North Berwick, dinner at The Kitchin
• Day 12 - Golf at Gullane, casual dinner in the Grassmarket
• Day 13 - Check out and Depart

[bmyles]

If you’re going to Ayr, you can’t miss playing Turnberry.  It was the best course to me by a fair margin and I played them all. I would substitute it for Prestwick, which despite playing twice I did not find spectacular in any way.

 
After Turnberry, the 2nd best course in Ayrshire is Western Gailes IMO.  The recent renovation, removing fairway pot bunkers and adding natural appearing bunkers, looks and plays famntastically. Great linksland, great routing, challenging but fair, no blind shots, and no bad holes. 
 

I would also not drive to north berwick from st sndrews just to play it once then drive to ayr when you are playing it later in the trip.  Just go straight to ayr and maybe add a course or 2 there.   You are likely adding 5 hours of driving, plus more time checking in/checking out for 18 holes of golf.  Also, North Berwick is overrated and just not on the same level as Turnberry, Dornoch, or Muirfield and I had it below Royal Aberdeen, Castle Stuart, and Western Gailes as well. 

[Golferpaul]

13 hours ago, bmyles said:

If you’re going to Ayr, you can’t miss playing Turnberry.  It was the best course to me by a fair margin and I played them all. I would substitute it for Prestwick, which despite playing twice I did not find spectacular in any way.

 

I totally agree.  I did not find Prestwick to be a good course.  In fact, the main thing it has going for it is its history.   Turnberry, on the other hand, is spectacular.

[hammergolf]

15 hours ago, bmyles said:

If you’re going to Ayr, you can’t miss playing Turnberry.  It was the best course to me by a fair margin and I played them all. I would substitute it for Prestwick, which despite playing twice I did not find spectacular in any way.

 
After Turnberry, the 2nd best course in Ayrshire is Western Gailes IMO.  The recent renovation, removing fairway pot bunkers and adding natural appearing bunkers, looks and plays famntastically. Great linksland, great routing, challenging but fair, no blind shots, and no bad holes. 
 

I would also not drive to north berwick from st sndrews just to play it once then drive to ayr when you are playing it later in the trip.  Just go straight to ayr and maybe add a course or 2 there.   You are likely adding 5 hours of driving, plus more time checking in/checking out for 18 holes of golf.  Also, North Berwick is overrated and just not on the same level as Turnberry, Dornoch, or Muirfield and I had it below Royal Aberdeen, Castle Stuart, and Western Gailes as well. 

I’d have to disagree the Western Gailes is the second best course in Ayr. While it’s a great course, Troon is a step above WG imho. 

[bigeasygator]

On 8/20/2023 at 12:51 AM, bmyles said:

Also, North Berwick is overrated and just not on the same level as Turnberry, Dornoch, or Muirfield and I had it below Royal Aberdeen, Castle Stuart, and Western Gailes as well. 

 

To each his own I guess.  Of the seven courses I played (Dornoch, Castle Stuart, Kingsbarns, Carnoustie, North Berwick, Gullane, Castle Course), North Berwick was probably my favorite along with Kingsbarns.

[TTN]

Thanks for all the support and advice. I'm looking into the food recs, and I'm excited that the trip is almost here. Understand that it is too much golf for many and requires sacrifices to pull that off, but now that I pulled back 2 courses, I think it's just the right amount for me. Thanks to all for the help. 

 

As for Turnberry, when in Ayr. I hear you on that course. I'm a Watson fan, even though only 39, and I have watched clips of Duel in the Sun. Furthermore, the course nowadays looks spectacular. However, it's a non-starter for me, given current ownership. I hope one day there is a change, and I can play it if I ever am back in Scotland, but I can't in good conscience pay money to that ownership, given policies and decisions on women's rights and trans rights. To each their own and not preaching on larger issues in a golf forum, just explaining its absence. At first glance, given the depth, breadth, and quality of courses I'm covering in Scotland its absence is notable. 

[Golferpaul]

16 hours ago, TTN said:

Thanks for all the support and advice. I'm looking into the food recs, and I'm excited that the trip is almost here. Understand that it is too much golf for many and requires sacrifices to pull that off, but now that I pulled back 2 courses, I think it's just the right amount for me. Thanks to all for the help. 

 

As for Turnberry, when in Ayr. I hear you on that course. I'm a Watson fan, even though only 39, and I have watched clips of Duel in the Sun. Furthermore, the course nowadays looks spectacular. However, it's a non-starter for me, given current ownership. I hope one day there is a change, and I can play it if I ever am back in Scotland, but I can't in good conscience pay money to that ownership, given policies and decisions on women's rights and trans rights. To each their own and not preaching on larger issues in a golf forum, just explaining its absence. At first glance, given the depth, breadth, and quality of courses I'm covering in Scotland its absence is notable. 

Interesting.  I've never thought about politics when choosing a course.  If I did, I might eliminate most courses since I'm sure failed humans run them.

[TTN]

@Golferpaul I hear you. It's a grey area. Think about some of the storied private clubs in our country and their history of exclusion for a variety of reasons. I've personally taken an imperfect stance that what happened 50/100/150 years ago isn't forgivable, but it's not actively happening. To my knowledge, you no longer see prejudice against types of people (race, gender, sexual orientation, religion) at these institutions. Maybe, I'm naive. Therefore, while not condoning past actions, I'm ok playing with them and supporting the current institution. Understanding these places may have members who act that way, but I'm not paying them I'm paying the club. Turnberry is different given the actions taken by the actual ownership. I understand it's a blurry line, not perfect, but it's what I've personally accepted. 

[scott_Donald]

1 hour ago, TTN said:

@Golferpaul I hear you. It's a grey area. Think about some of the storied private clubs in our country and their history of exclusion for a variety of reasons. I've personally taken an imperfect stance that what happened 50/100/150 years ago isn't forgivable, but it's not actively happening. To my knowledge, you no longer see prejudice against types of people (race, gender, sexual orientation, religion) at these institutions. Maybe, I'm naive. Therefore, while not condoning past actions, I'm ok playing with them and supporting the current institution. Understanding these places may have members who act that way, but I'm not paying them I'm paying the club. Turnberry is different given the actions taken by the actual ownership. I understand it's a blurry line, not perfect, but it's what I've personally accepted. 

 

Don't go to Lochinvar then!

 

We see a lot of people visiting Aberdeen. This year I have been told TrumpyGolfCourse here has not been that busy at all compared to last year. It is a great modern links but seems it's fifty fifty for visitors wanting to go there.  They did host, very well, a Legends Tour event I have been told this week so things might change a little. 

[slocalifglfr]

A great book that might help you: A Course Called Scotland by Tom Coyne.

[hammergolf]

12 hours ago, Golferpaul said:

Interesting.  I've never thought about politics when choosing a course.  If I did, I might eliminate most courses since I'm sure failed humans run them.

Yeah, I wish that politics stayed where it belongs and not in golf or sports, but for some they can’t separate them. One of the guys in my group is a dem and he played Doonbeg on our last trip. He mentioned after the round that he would have never played it if not for our trip, but he was glad he played it because he really liked it and was one of his favorites on the trip. I mean Muirfield just recently allowed women, and like you said if someone looks for a reason to find something offensive they can usually find it……