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Picking between two shaft weights


Sankacoffee

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Here's the background. I was fit into a Tour Green 65 TX back in April. Titleist ended up not carrying that shaft anymore, but was able to get me a 75 TX (didn't hit this one at the fitting). I ordered a 65 through a different website and it took about a month to get to me, so I played with the 75 the whole time and hit it pretty great. 2 grams of weight was added to the head so I could feel it better, but with the 75 I don't really feel the difference. I have switched back and forth the last few weeks and can't determine which one is better for me. I like the feel of 65 better, but the 75 seems more accurate and less spinny (good thing for me) but it's not a massive difference. I don't have any data to support that, but I'm hoping to get on a sim soon to see what the deal is. 

 

Also, some days I hit the 65 better and others the 75. I occasionally have a day with the 75 where it feels like it's too boardy, but that's not the norm. How would you guys decide which to keep and which to sell in a scenario like this? Pick the best numbers or just keep hitting both on the course and pick that way? 

Driver: TSi3 8* Tour Green 75 TX

4 wood: Callaway Apex UW 17* Hzrdus Smoke 6.5
Irons: 4-PW 716 AP2 X100
Wedges: Mizuno T22 Copper 51, 56, 61 TI S400
Putter: Odyssey Jailbird 380 MH

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34 minutes ago, Sankacoffee said:

How would you guys decide which to keep and which to sell in a scenario like this? Pick the best numbers or just keep hitting both on the course and pick that way? 

 

First of all, difference in cut shaft weight is going to be more like 6 gm, not the full 10 gm that the 'name' implies.   So it's not surprising that the performance is pretty close.

 

But for me, the choice is always based on the consistency/accuracy/shot shape control.  Whether using numbers from an LM or just visual ball flight.

 

Also check and compare the face impact location and consistency with both shafts (using foot powder spray).   That might be the reason one is a bit more 'spinny' than the other.  or it might just be the lighter shaft gets released a fraction earlier and a bit more dynamic loft is delivered.   It the later is the case, a bit more weight added to the head might counteract that.  So don't hesitate to play around with some lead tape.

 

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If the two same shafts that are only separated by weight and torque are being gamed interchangeably with similar results, I would suggest going with the one that feels better.  As @Stuart_Gsuggested, it doesn't hurt to mess around with some lead tape as well. 

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Callaway AI Smoke Paradym 💎💎💎9* - Diamana BB-63TX

TM Qi10 Tour 15* - Diamana GT-80TX

TM Tour Issue Rescue 11 TP Deep Face Proto 16* - Ventus Black HB 9TX

New Level NLU-01 21* - KBS Hybrid Proto 105X

New Level 623-M 5-PW - MMT 125TX

Miura Tour 54* HB - KBS 610 125 S+, New Level SPN forged M-grind 58* - KBS Tour 130X

Scotty Cameron Studio Select Newport 2

 

 

 

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4 hours ago, Sankacoffee said:Also, some days I hit the 65 better and others the 75. I occasionally have a day with the 75 where it feels like it's too boardy, but that's not the norm. How would you guys decide which to keep and which to sell in a scenario like this? Pick the best numbers or just keep hitting both on the course and pick that way? 


Hit your 4 iron 3 times. Hit your driving iron 3 times. Hit the driver with one of the shafts 3 times. Repeat for the other shaft.

 

The key is not which shaft performs best in isolation, rather which integrates better with your other clubs when you have no adaptive swings as you do on the range or a fitting environment.

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Driver - QI10 / Diamana T+ 60 S

FW - G430 / Tour Chrome 75 S

Hybrid - SIM2 MAX / Ventus Blue 7S

Irons - P790 2025 CT Lite S

Wedges - MG4 50/10 56/12 60/08

Putter - Odyssey Ai-One Milled #7 T

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7 hours ago, Jeff58 said:


Hit your 4 iron 3 times. Hit your driving iron 3 times. Hit the driver with one of the shafts 3 times. Repeat for the other shaft.

 

The key is not which shaft performs best in isolation, rather which integrates better with your other clubs when you have no adaptive swings as you do on the range or a fitting environment.

I like that idea a lot. Makes more sense than what I've been doing for sure.

Driver: TSi3 8* Tour Green 75 TX

4 wood: Callaway Apex UW 17* Hzrdus Smoke 6.5
Irons: 4-PW 716 AP2 X100
Wedges: Mizuno T22 Copper 51, 56, 61 TI S400
Putter: Odyssey Jailbird 380 MH

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7 hours ago, Jeff58 said:


Hit your 4 iron 3 times. Hit your driving iron 3 times. Hit the driver with one of the shafts 3 times. Repeat for the other shaft.

 

The key is not which shaft performs best in isolation, rather which integrates better with your other clubs when you have no adaptive swings as you do on the range or a fitting environment.

 

that reminds me of a  friend of mine who always hits a softer shafts better in a fitting and the range because his timing slows down and allows him to be a better ball striker, but on the course he needs a shaft that's rebar since his 180 ball speed swing is erratic when he hits a driver once every 30 minutes. 

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