Did my first Iron set rebuild!

[maximusppl]

So I did my first iron set rebuild (pull shafts, clean and prep hosels, install and prep new shafts, swing weights, ferrules, grips, epoxy).

- Titleist T100S heads (2021)

- Project X 6.0 Rifle Shafts (standard length)

- brass swing weights (various)

-BB&Fco ferrules 

- Golfpride MCC Midsize Grips

 

For anyone interested the old shafts were KBS $-taper 120 Stiff. 

 

Couple comments/questions:

- The hosel cleaning brushes go "skinny" pretty quick if used on a power drill. Are there better hosel brushes that hold their form?

- Uses the long cure epoxy out of a tube gun, and it was MUCH easier to get the epoxy out and in the proper ratios vs standalone bottles. Used some shaft beads along with the mixture.

- After you epoxy the head to the shaft, how do you align the top of the grip to the leading edge and set it? With the epoxy still wet the head is moving around a bunch. (I put the grips on before I epoxied to head). I am assuming you can run into this situation if you're using old shafts with grips already on them? 
 

I will change the lie angles once they set and will give the heads a proper cleaning. They have some grip solvent spray stains in the pictures, but they clean right up with some APC or something like Rapid Remover. 

 

Edited December 5, 2022 by maximusppl

[Stuart_G]

13 hours ago, maximusppl said:

Couple comments/questions:

- The hosel cleaning brushes go "skinny" pretty quick if used on a power drill. Are there better hosel brushes that hold their form?

 

They do wear - but which ones did you use?

 

FYI reamers can also be used to clean the hosel.  They are more expensive but last longer.

 

13 hours ago, maximusppl said:

- Uses the long cure epoxy out of a tube gun, and it was MUCH easier to get the epoxy out and in the proper ratios vs standalone bottles. Used some shaft beads along with the mixture.

 

You'll get mixed opinions on shafting beads.   Mine is that - if the fit is good, they are not needed and don't provide any benefit.  If the fit is loose, you should use shims instead of beads.

 

13 hours ago, maximusppl said:

- After you epoxy the head to the shaft, how do you align the top of the grip to the leading edge and set it? With the epoxy still wet the head is moving around a bunch. (I put the grips on before I epoxied to head). I am assuming you can run into this situation if you're using old shafts with grips already on them? 
 

 

Rigging a jig to clamp and hold them while they cure is the only reliable way.   But that's why the vast majority of builders put the grips on after epoxying the heads on, not before. 

 

 

Edited December 5, 2022 by Stuart_G

[Nessism]

Nice build!  Enjoy your new toys!

 

Some suggestions for next time...

 

- skip the beads.  They add no benefit, and can hurt if too much is used

- wire brush in the hosel does not fully clean and prep the metal.  Use a sanding sleeve on a drill motor.

- after sanding hosel/shaft, use acetone or MEK to clean before bonding

 

Also realize that there is no such thing as "standard length."  Shafts from one set of clubs, installed into another, can very well built to another length club based on the heads.  Using a proper club length ruler will help highlight these sorts of issues.

Edited December 5, 2022 by Nessism

[Jeri6gt]

I am about to do something similar on my T100S.

Removing PX LZs for regular PX.

[maximusppl]

@Stuart_G and @Nessism - thank you both for the advice. Definitely some good stuff in there. Any advice where to get a sanding sleeve? Also what have you guys found to the best sized drill bill for .355 hosels? 

[Stuart_G]

28 minutes ago, maximusppl said:

@Stuart_G and @Nessism - thank you both for the advice. Definitely some good stuff in there. Any advice where to get a sanding sleeve? Also what have you guys found to the best sized drill bill for .355 hosels? 

 

Drill bits should only be used for cleaning out the bigger chunks of epoxy left in the hosel.   So the size doesn't really matter as long as it is smaller than the tip size (e.g. ~5/16" or 11/32" for a .355" taper tip hosel).

 

If you want to do more fine cleaning, use a (hand) reamer, not a drill bit.

https://www.golfworks.com/spiral-fluted-reamers/p/gw0115/

 

I actually use something like a small (old) chisel to clean out most of the old epoxy that the drill bit missed.  Then follow that with the wire brush to finish off the cleaning process.

 

Edited December 5, 2022 by Stuart_G

[Seamus_McDuff]

32 minutes ago, maximusppl said:

@Stuart_G and @Nessism - thank you both for the advice. Definitely some good stuff in there. Any advice where to get a sanding sleeve? Also what have you guys found to the best sized drill bill for .355 hosels? 

 

https://www.golfworks.com/hosel-cleaning-abrading-sanding-sleeves/p/crmwc/

[maximusppl]

awesome links!!!! (added to cart)

[Nessism]

Amazon sells those sanding bits also.  I bought a bag of 3M 100 grit sleeves for a lifetime supply!  

[DArnie]

"The hosel cleaning brushes go "skinny" pretty quick if used on a power drill. Are there better hosel brushes that hold their form?"

I've learned to just buy the iron brushes and as they become "skinny" they will work fine for the woods. They definitely don't last very long. Combine them with the sanding sleeves and then clean with q-tip and acetone and you're usually ready. Shine a light down the hosel to make sure they are clean and if not, you can use a drill bit and/or a reamer, then repeat with brushes, sand sleeves and cleaning if needed. 

[Jim E]

16 hours ago, maximusppl said:

So I did my first iron set rebuild (pull shafts, clean and prep hosels, install and prep new shafts, swing weights, ferrules, grips, epoxy).

- Titleist T100S heads (2021)

- Project X 6.0 Rifle Shafts (standard length)

- brass swing weights (various)

-BB&Fco ferrules 

- Golfpride MCC Midsize Grips

 

For anyone interested the old shafts were KBS $-taper 120 Stiff. 

 

Couple comments/questions:

- The hosel cleaning brushes go "skinny" pretty quick if used on a power drill. Are there better hosel brushes that hold their form?

- Uses the long cure epoxy out of a tube gun, and it was MUCH easier to get the epoxy out and in the proper ratios vs standalone bottles. Used some shaft beads along with the mixture.

- After you epoxy the head to the shaft, how do you align the top of the grip to the leading edge and set it? With the epoxy still wet the head is moving around a bunch. (I put the grips on before I epoxied to head). I am assuming you can run into this situation if you're using old shafts with grips already on them? 
 

I will change the lie angles once they set and will give the heads a proper cleaning. They have some grip solvent spray stains in the pictures, but they clean right up with some APC or something like Rapid Remover. 

 

I’m thinking of changing shafts on my t100’s. What swing weight did you end up with and how much tip weight did you add to get there? I’m using amt black which I like but thinking of going graphite in roughly 90g. I’m assuming I’ll be losing sw pts. So I’m curious if I’ll have to add too much tip weights that would end up somewhat nullifying going lighter.

 

thx

[ChristopherMcDonald]

15 minutes ago, Jim E said:

I’m thinking of changing shafts on my t100’s. What swing weight did you end up with and how much tip weight did you add to get there?

This will vary depending on the specific headweight of your iron. No two are exactly the same.

 

16 minutes ago, Jim E said:

I’m using amt black which I like but thinking of going graphite in roughly 90g.

You will lose SW points, but can be addressed by adding playing length or tip weights, or a combination of both

 

16 minutes ago, Jim E said:

I’m curious if I’ll have to add too much tip weights that would end up somewhat nullifying going lighter.

 

Unlikely. Swingweight is a feel thing, you should still notice the benefits of going lighter/to graphite

[maximusppl]

56 minutes ago, Jim E said:

I’m thinking of changing shafts on my t100’s. What swing weight did you end up with and how much tip weight did you add to get there? I’m using amt black which I like but thinking of going graphite in roughly 90g. I’m assuming I’ll be losing sw pts. So I’m curious if I’ll have to add too much tip weights that would end up somewhat nullifying going lighter.

 

thx

 

I actually went with this swingweight system, based off the swingweight feel like I liked in my 7iron (D2). As far as which tip weight I used depended on headweight of each head too. Some may say it's too much swingweight progression but I like the feel so far. Here was my final swing weights on the iron set:

 

4i - d0.5

5i - d1

6i - d1.5

7i - d2

8i - d2.5

9i - d3

PW - d3.5

GW - d4

 

Edited December 5, 2022 by maximusppl

[Stuart_G]

1 hour ago, Jim E said:

I’m using amt black which I like but thinking of going graphite in roughly 90g. I’m assuming I’ll be losing sw pts.

 

I wouldn't assume that but it depends on specifically which graphite shaft you use.   Most are balanced pretty well so you'll typically see no or only a very small change in swing weight.

 

e.g. Here is what I got when changing out TT DG s300's (127-130 gm) using the same playing length, same grip, and no change to head weight (before adding any tip weights).  

 

Recoil 110 F4 and F5 - no change to swing weight.

Recoil 95 F4 -  no change to swing weight.

Steelfiber i95 stiff - lost only 1 sw pt

Steelfiber FC90 stiff - lost only 1 sw pt.

 

And you're coming from even lighter steel shafts (95 to 116 gm).   If there are tip weights used with your current shafts, you'll likely need a similar amount.

[Pnwpingi210]

3 hours ago, Nessism said:

Amazon sells those sanding bits also.  I bought a bag of 3M 100 grit sleeves for a lifetime supply!  

Can you share the link and info on the size?  Been looking for those on Amazon and have not been able to find them

[Jim E]

3 hours ago, Stuart_G said:

 

I wouldn't assume that but it depends on specifically which graphite shaft you use.   Most are balanced pretty well so you'll typically see no or only a very small change in swing weight.

 

e.g. Here is what I got when changing out TT DG s300's (127-130 gm) using the same playing length, same grip, and no change to head weight (before adding any tip weights).  

 

Recoil 110 F4 and F5 - no change to swing weight.

Recoil 95 F4 -  no change to swing weight.

Steelfiber i95 stiff - lost only 1 sw pt

Steelfiber FC90 stiff - lost only 1 sw pt.

 

And you're coming from even lighter steel shafts (95 to 116 gm).   If there are tip weights used with your current shafts, you'll likely need a similar amount.

Oh that’s great! I was thinking of going with one of those shafts because of cost. Thanks!

[Nessism]

4 hours ago, Pnwpingi210 said:

Can you share the link and info on the size?  Been looking for those on Amazon and have not been able to find them

 

I can't find the proper size and grit in stock on Amazon, but these on ebay will work (and they are cheaper.)

 

Size is 1/4" x 1" (or 1.5") x 1/8"

 

1/4" is the OD

1" or 1.5" is the length

1/8" is the hole size in the middle (you need to purchase a mandrel)

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/374031402330

[Nessism]

Another great purchase is some 3M Utility Cloth roll.  This stuff is ideal to prep and clean shafts.  Check eBay and Amazon for the best deal.  It's WAY better than using paper sandpaper.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Utility-314D-Aluminum-Length-Maroon/dp/B000V4BCUW/

 

 

[Sparty4202]

On 12/4/2022 at 7:00 PM, maximusppl said:

After you epoxy the head to the shaft, how do you align the top of the grip to the leading edge and set it? With the epoxy still wet the head is moving around a bunch. (I put the grips on before I epoxied to head). I am assuming you can run into this situation if you're using old shafts with grips already on them? 

I’ve always used electrical tape to hold the shafts from moving. There are two methods I’ve used 1) tape around where the hosel and ferrule meet. 2) run a 2-3” piece of tape up the backside of the hosel, ferrule and shaft. It’s usually best to stand the clubs upright to let them dry. 
There are a lot of good YouTube videos showing the assembly process. McGolf is good one to review. 
I second the use of GolfWorks for your supplies…especially items such as hosel brushes, the hosel sandpaper tool and many others. 

[sm_watts]

The best wire brushes I've found to use are barrel cleaning brushes from the outdoor section in Walmart.  They still don't last real long, but they're cheaper than golfworks.

[Bad9]

On 12/6/2022 at 11:26 PM, sm_watts said:

The best wire brushes I've found to use are barrel cleaning brushes from the outdoor section in Walmart.  They still don't last real long, but they're cheaper than golfworks.

 

The 12 or 20 gauge (I forget which) works perfectly for cleaning grip bores too.

[Vintage1976]

On 12/5/2022 at 10:49 AM, DArnie said:

"The hosel cleaning brushes go "skinny" pretty quick if used on a power drill. Are there better hosel brushes that hold their form?"

When they flatten down, I just change the direction on my drill 😉