HELP with head weight/swing weight

[WeritoK2]

Ok, I’m all confused here. I had a fitting recently and turns out I should be playing a 44” playing length driver, all my shafts are 45.5” so I’m planning on butt trimming 1.5” off the shafts of the two drivers I play: G430 Max and TSR3. 
 

I made some research and to my understanding, I’m gonna loose 9 swing weight points by butt trimming that 1.5” and if I want to get to the original swing weight (D4) I will have to add around 18 grams of weight to the heads (2 grams=1SW point). 
 

So for example, G430 back weight is 25 grams, so in theory I need 40-42 grams of extra weight to the head, I don’t even think there is an aftermarket weight that heavy, let alone for the Titleist. 
 

Am I right here or I got it all wrong?

 

If anyone could give me the right back weights I should get for both G430 and TSR3 to get them to the original stock SW but in the new 44” playing length I’d be much grateful. 

[GolfTurkey]

AFAIK driver is more like 1.6 grams per SW point. 

 

Rather than going by formula, add lead tape bit by bit until it feels right, contact is centred and you get the best results. 

[WeritoK2]

19 minutes ago, GolfTurkey said:

AFAIK driver is more like 1.6 grams per SW point. 

 

Rather than going by formula, add lead tape bit by bit until it feels right, contact is centred and you get the best results. 

That’s the thing, I HATE lead tape, I totally understand your point and appreciate your suggestion but I absolutely refuse using lead tape here 

[NicholasP]

I wouldn't trust any math other than putting on a swing weight scale with finished shafts due to swing weight variances from balance points on shaft.  Cool you hate lead tape, but I would use it, find the right SW with your preferred shaft, then order the proper replacement weight.  

[GolfTurkey]

9 minutes ago, WeritoK2 said:

That’s the thing, I HATE lead tape, I totally understand your point and appreciate your suggestion but I absolutely refuse using lead tape here 

 

I don't think you will find rear weights that are heavier enough than stock (unless a lighter SW works for you).

 

If you are so anti-lead tape, then your only alternative is probably to find the weight that suits you using tape and then having the head hot-melted.

[jblough99]

12 minutes ago, WeritoK2 said:

That’s the thing, I HATE lead tape, I totally understand your point and appreciate your suggestion but I absolutely refuse using lead tape here 

You don’t need to leave the tape on permanently.  Keep adding tape until you get it dialed in, then remove all the tape and weigh it, then you know how much heavier of a weight you need.  
 

You may not need to go to D4 with the shorter build.  You may not react the same to D4 at 44” vs D4 at 45.5”. Everyone thinks because a club at a certain length plays at a certain swingweight that a shorter or longer builds needs to be at the same swingweight which isn’t always the case.

[dmeeksDC]

I’d use lead tape to determine how much weight you need to add, then I’d divide the total weight added with two-thirds of it in a heavier rear weight and one-third added via hot melt in the corners near the face.
 

If you add lots and lots of weight only to the rear of the driver, it likely will increase dynamic loft at impact to more than you currently have. And it may feel strange too if there is a lot of weight added only to the rear. That is why lead tape is so useful. You can put it anywhere and replicate the permanent solution so you know exactly how the driver will play. 

[Sean124]

Another thing to keep in mind is you may want to tip those shafts a bit after adding a significant amount of weight to the head. 

[Justsomeguy]

5 hours ago, WeritoK2 said:

Ok, I’m all confused here. I had a fitting recently and turns out I should be playing a 44” playing length driver, all my shafts are 45.5” so I’m planning on butt trimming 1.5” off the shafts of the two drivers I play: G430 Max and TSR3. 
 

I made some research and to my understanding, I’m gonna loose 9 swing weight points by butt trimming that 1.5” and if I want to get to the original swing weight (D4) I will have to add around 18 grams of weight to the heads (2 grams=1SW point). 
 

So for example, G430 back weight is 25 grams, so in theory I need 40-42 grams of extra weight to the head, I don’t even think there is an aftermarket weight that heavy, let alone for the Titleist. 
 

Am I right here or I got it all wrong?

 

If anyone could give me the right back weights I should get for both G430 and TSR3 to get them to the original stock SW but in the new 44” playing length I’d be much grateful. 

I feel you. I cut down my F9 driver an inch from 46 to 45, and the amount of weight the math said to add was untenable.

Nonetheless I added it through aftermarket weights that fit, and it felt all wrong, way too heavy.

Jblo has a great point - your sw preference might change at the shorter build.

For me, I removed a significant amount of weight from what the math indicated and it felt much better and I hit it much better.

So it makes me think that the sw problem is a theoretical one to some degree rather than a practical one. And the actual practical problem just needs a commitment to trial and error.

[Stuart_G]

15 hours ago, WeritoK2 said:

Ok, I’m all confused here. I had a fitting recently and turns out I should be playing a 44” playing length driver, all my shafts are 45.5” so I’m planning on butt trimming 1.5” off the shafts of the two drivers I play: G430 Max and TSR3. 
 

I made some research and to my understanding, I’m gonna loose 9 swing weight points by butt trimming that 1.5” and if I want to get to the original swing weight (D4) I will have to add around 18 grams of weight to the heads (2 grams=1SW point). 

...

 

Am I right here or I got it all wrong?

 

The concept of trying to get back to something that wasn't really a good fit is where the main problem to your logic is.    Second - those swing weight "rules" were never meant to be used in this particular context.   Once the length changes or shaft weight changes (or even the grip changes) - throw any old swing weight values out - they shouldn't be used as a target anymore.

 

Here is how you should be looking at it.    You were fit for a club with a particular length at the fitting - so the specs of that club is what you want to duplicate.

 

Did they add any weight to the head when you tested the shorter driver at the fitting?  What was the swing weight of that club?   That's what you should be trying to get an answer to (from your fitter) and if so, how much.  

 

If you can't get that information - then you still need to forget about "getting back" to the specs of a club that wasn't a good fit.  Listen to the others, get some lead tape, go to the range, and dial in the head weight by feel and performance, not some arbitrary and meaningless SW value.

 

Get over your hate of lead tape - it's by far the best tool for the job of finding out how much weight needs to be added.  As others have said, It doesn't have to be the long term solution once you figure out much weight needs to be added.  The only other alternative is to buy a bunch of aftermarket weights and alternate them until you find the best one.  Personally I think that's a big waste of money - but it's your money not mine.

 

Edited March 28, 2023 by Stuart_G