Oct 2023 Ireland/Scotland Trip - Review

[swo83]

Just returned from an Ireland/Scotland golfing marathon.  All that I can say is that it was an epic experience.

 

We played the following courses:

 

Day 1: Portmarnock Old

Day 2: Old Head

Day 3: Tralee/Waterville (36 hole day)

Day 4: Ballybunion

Day 5: Lahinch

Day 6: Carne (WAD) 

Day 7: *Rest Day (visited Roscommons on the way to Newcastle) 

Day 8: Royal County Down

Day 9: Turnberry Ailsa (early am ferry to Scotland)

Day 10: Muirfield

Day 11: Kingsbarns

Day 12: TOC

Day 13: Carnoustie

Day 14: Royal Dornoch

Day 15: Cruden Bay

Day 16: North Berwick West Links

 

We walked every course and carried our bags.  There was plenty of time to experience the craic, Dublin (St James Gate/Temple Bar),  visiting my mother's family's lineage in Roscommons, St Andrews Cathedral, Old Tom Morris Grave, Dunrobin Castle, etc etc.  The 36 hole day also worked surprisingly well.  We were the first tee time at Tralee, having plenty of time for lunch and Waterville was wide open in the pm.  We started the trip through a touring company to secure a TOC time and then expanded the trip in both directions.  I planned the entire Ireland portion, but was able to use the driver from the touring company which was key since there was a lot of road time.  

 

This was clearly not a relaxing trip, but it was never intended to be.  This was our one opportunity to experience Ireland/Scotland and fit in as much as we could - and we did.  

 

I can add some photos and expand on this in the next few days as we just returned.  My top five courses are:

 

1. Carne (WAD)

2. Ballybunion (everything I hoped for - but also played really well)

3. North Berwick

4. TOC

5. Lahinch/RCD/Royal Dornoch/Muirfield (tied- no way that I could choose but they're below the top 4)

 

My biggest surprise was Portmarnock Old.  It was my first links experience and it did not disappoint.  We played it right after our flight into Dublin and I had relatively low expectations, but was wrong.  I'm happy that we experienced Old Head, but I don't ever see myself returning.  I CANNOT envision myself ever visiting Ireland and not playing Carne.  It was the most amazing experience of the trip, almost prehistoric-looking.  We also played in 40 mph wind gusts and spurts of rain.  I could write a book about how much I loved this course.  Photos do not depict the grandness of these dunes.  I was awe-struck, and met Gerry Maguire!  Also met Huey, the Lahinch caddy from No Laying Up!  For Scotland, I can't envision myself ever visiting and not playing North Berwick, it was the most amazing ending to an epic adventure.  I loved every hole and didn't want the round to end.  

 

Feel free to reach out if anyone has questions as you're planning your trips.  While we had about 3-4 days of rain and some really heavy wind, we easily finished every course.  Each was a memorable experience in itself.  I was a little worried about the length of the trip and number of courses based on some previous feedback.  I think my advice to people is that you really have to think about what you want out of the trip.  I didn't approach this itinerary thinking that it would be relaxing.  We were also both pretty fit so the walking/carrying was never an issue (Carne is almost like a backpacking exercise - if you walk and carry your clubs).  If you're looking for a relaxing trip with minimal road time, then this approach is definitely not for you, and understandable.  For me, it was everything that we hoped for.  

 

Happy to breakdown the individual courses with photos in the next few days if anyone is interested.

Edited October 18, 2023 by swo83

[hammergolf]

44 minutes ago, swo83 said:

Just returned from an Ireland/Scotland golfing marathon.  All that I can say is that it was an epic experience.

 

We played the following courses:

 

Day 1: Portmarnock Old

Day 2: Old Head

Day 3: Tralee/Waterville (36 hole day)

Day 4: Ballybunion

Day 5: Lahinch

Day 6: Carne (WAD) 

Day 7: *Rest Day (visited Roscommons on the way to Newcastle) 

Day 8: Royal County Down

Day 9: Turnberry Ailsa (early am ferry to Scotland)

Day 10: Muirfield

Day 11: Kingsbarns

Day 12: TOC

Day 13: Carnoustie

Day 14: Royal Dornoch

Day 15: Cruden Bay

Day 16: North Berwick West Links

 

We walked every course and carried our bags.  There was plenty of time to experience the craic, Dublin (St James Gate/Temple Bar),  visiting my mother's family's lineage in Roscommons, St Andrews Cathedral, Old Tom Morris Grave, Dunrobin Castle, etc etc.  The 36 hole day also worked surprisingly well.  We were the first tee time at Tralee, having plenty of time for lunch and Waterville was wide open in the pm.  We started the trip through a touring company to secure a TOC time and then expanded the trip in both directions.  I planned the entire Ireland portion, but was able to use the driver from the touring company which was key since there was a lot of road time.  

 

This was clearly not a relaxing trip, but it was never intended to be.  This was our one opportunity to experience Ireland/Scotland and fit in as much as we could - and we did.  

 

I can add some photos and expand on this in the next few days as we just returned.  My top five courses are:

 

1. Carne (WAD)

2. Ballybunion (everything I hoped for - but also played really well)

3. North Berwick

4. TOC

5. Lahinch/RCD/Royal Dornoch/Muirfield (tied- no way that I could choose but they're below the top 4)

 

My biggest surprise was Portmarnock Old.  It was my first links experience and it did not disappoint.  We played it right after our flight into Dublin and I had relatively low expectations, but was wrong.  I'm happy that we experienced Old Head, but I don't ever see myself returning.  I CANNOT envision myself ever visiting Ireland and not playing Carne.  It was the most amazing experience of the trip, almost prehistoric-looking.  We also played in 40 mph wind gusts and spurts of rain.  I could write a book about how much I loved this course.  Photos do not depict the grandness of these dunes.  I was awe-struck, and met Gerry Maguire!  Also met Huey, the Lahinch caddy from No Laying Up!  For Scotland, I can't envision myself ever visiting and not playing North Berwick, it was the most amazing ending to an epic adventure.  I loved every hole and didn't want the round to end.  

 

Feel free to reach out if anyone has questions as you're planning your trips.  While we had about 3-4 days of rain and some really heavy wind, we easily finished every course.  Each was a memorable experience in itself.  I was a little worried about the length of the trip and number of courses based on some previous feedback.  I think my advice to people is that you really have to think about what you want out of the trip.  I didn't approach this itinerary thinking that it would be relaxing.  We were also both pretty fit so the walking/carrying was never an issue (Carne is almost like a backpacking exercise - if you walk and carry your clubs).  If you're looking for a relaxing trip with minimal road time, then this approach is definitely not for you, and understandable.  For me, it was everything that we hoped for.  

 

Happy to breakdown the individual courses with photos in the next few days if anyone is interested.

Awesome trip! I agree about Carne, it’s just unlike anywhere else on the planet. 

[Chanceman]

Sounds very similar to our 20 courses in 21 days effort around Ireland a couple of years ago. Actually I would do it again but with 20 different courses plus Carne !! What a place that is. Pretty well the most memorable round of golf I ever played and would love to repeat any time.

[MattyO1984]

15 hours ago, swo83 said:

Happy to breakdown the individual courses with photos in the next few days if anyone is interested.

 

Always love pictures and break downs of course. I am Scottish so it would be cool to see what you made of the courses here. 

[ESOX ZO]

How'd you reckon the difficulty at RCD? 

[swo83]

58 minutes ago, ESOX ZO said:

How'd you reckon the difficulty at RCD? 

 

We played RCD on a beautiful and relatively wind-less day (one of the few).  So my experience might be a bit skewed.  I also played really well this trip, and drove the ball long and pretty accurate (which is also rare).  There were A LOT of blind shots that required a good bit of carry (depending on your choice of tees).  I loved RCD, but imagine it would be a much different experience with significant headwinds.  The course was pristine and it's hard not to be awestruck by the towering Mourne Mountains in the distance.  The front 9 was spectacular, but the back 9 wasn't a huge step down either (plus you're largely headed back toward the clubhouse with the mountains in every view).  If you're driving the ball well, it's a course that you can set yourself up for a birdies.  The key, like most courses I suppose, was an accurate and sometimes blind tee shot.

Edited October 19, 2023 by swo83

[ESOX ZO]

29 minutes ago, swo83 said:

 

We played RCD on a beautiful and relatively wind-less day (one of the few).  So my experience might be a bit skewed.  I also played really well this trip, and drove the ball long and pretty accurate (which is also rare).  There were A LOT of blind shots that required a good bit of carry (depending on your choice of tees).  I loved RCD, but imagine it would be a much different experience with significant headwinds.  The course was pristine and it's hard not to be awestruck by the towering Mourne Mountains in the distance.  The front 9 was spectacular, but the back 9 wasn't a huge step down either (plus you're largely headed back toward the clubhouse with the mountains in every view).  If you're driving the ball well, it's a course that you can set yourself up for a birdies.  The key, like most courses I suppose, was an accurate and sometimes blind tee shot.

Awesome, beautiful pics too. Any standout bars/restaurants that you'd suggest in Ireland/NI? 

[swo83]

The 19th Bar And Corner Stone restaurant in Lahinch were fantastic.  Highly recommend McDonnell’s if you’re staying in Belmullet near Carne.  The restaurant at the Talbot Inn had one of the best roasts with Mashed Potatoes too.  I really enjoyed that area.  In NI, Quinn’s was our go-to in Newcastle.

Edited October 19, 2023 by swo83

[swo83]

So here's a quick synopsis of my thoughts, related to the courses:

 

PORTMARNOCK:  I didn't have high expectations for this course and played it right after we landed in Dublin on October 1st.  We played the Red/Blue 9s.  The par 3s were excellent and the Blue 9 interacted with the coast and had a bit more variation than the Red.  It was a very fair course, no blind shots that I remember, and the ball was very findable if you missed the fairway.  It was a great introduction to links golf and a start to the trip.

 

 

OLD HEAD: This was a course that my Father really wanted to play.  The vistas were out of this world but like everyone on this forum said, it felt like a resort course.  There were about 10-11 holes right on the ledge and it was a great time, although I don't see myself making an effort to play it again in the future.  Once was enough.  To me, it didn't compare to the more historical links courses (just my take).  I would say that it's definitely worth the experience once though.

 

 

TRALEE: We were the first tee time at Tralee and had plenty of time to make our way around the course as a 2ball since we played Waterville in the pm.  We experienced our first deluge and Irish wind on the third hole.  It was enough that my Father went inside and picked back up on the back nine.  It only last about ten minutes.  The front 9 was nice, but certainly didn't compare to the back 9.  The back 9 was unreal, especially that first par 3 with the gigantic crevice.  My Favorite hole was 17.  Tralee was the standout at this point in the trip but no match for Ballybunion in my mind.  I enjoyed Tralee, but I'm not sure that I'd ever skip a Ballybunion or a Lahinch to play it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

WATERVILLE:  We played Waterville to cap off a 36 hole day.  As the first tee time at Tralee, we had plenty of time for the commute and there was no rushing.  Waterville was also wide open in the PM.  I wasn't as fond of the front nine, but the back 9 was memorable.  The dunes did not compare to Tralee's back nine, but there were some nice holes.  The Mass Hole stands out, but there was a stair stepped fairway, and 16/17/18 were fantastic.  I would play Tralee over Waterville any day, but it was a nice course and a great addition too any itinerary.  

 

 

 

 

 

Edited October 20, 2023 by swo83

[swo83]

BALLYBUNION:  I remember hearing about this course as a kid (probably before I ever knew what Ballybunion even was) and this course is in my top 3 for the trip.  It was absolutely fantastic.  This was our first day of persistent Irish wind.  I'm usually not the most accurate driver, but I hit the ball really well this trip.  I loved everything about this course, from the opening with the cemetery, to the magnificent 11th hole, to the Devil's Elbow, to the finish.  This was the experience that I was looking for, but again, played well so it may be skewed.  My Father's caddy took us up to the back tee's on 17 by the "CTH" bench and was able to cut corner from the tips to close out a wonderful experience.

 

 

LAHINCH:  Another favorite from the Irish leg of the trip.  I think the front nine outshines the back 9 a touch, but how can you possibly compete against the Dell and the Klondyke?  The first two holes were a little bland but then starting at hole 3, it was one great hole after another.  We played Lahinch in a persistent misty rain and heavy winds with gusts exceeding 40mph.  Nonetheless, it was phenomenal and I'd make every effort to play this course again if I'm in Ireland.  I downplayed the back 9 a little as well, how often do you get to play holes with old castle ruins in the near distance???

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[swo83]

CARNE: this was the highlight of the trip.  We played the Wild Atlantic Dunes routing in rain and high winds and it was the coolest experience that I've ever had on a golf course.  Photos do not demonstrate the sheer mass of these dunes.  I walked and carried my bag and it felt more like a backpacking adventure than golf.  I will find a way to play this course again in my life.  I don't see myself heading back to Ireland not making every to play this again.

 

 

 

 

ROYAL COUNTY DOWN: We played RCD under ideal conditions which probably skewed my experience a bit.  I also drove the ball really long and accurate, for me.  There were a ton of blind and challenging tee shots that could easily ruin a round.  The front 9 was fantastic with holes 4, 8, and 9 headed back toward the Mourne Mountains.  The back 9 was no slouch either.  The course was in pristine shape and it's easy to see why it's ranked and regarded as highly as it is.  

 

[swo83]

TURNBERRY AILSA:  The course was fabulous and there were vistas everywhere you looked (lighthouse, hotel, Ailsa Craig).  I thought that the middle holes were stronger than the opening and closing.  The holes around the light house were jaw-dropping.  I would still rank RCD above this course, but it's easy to also see why it's ranked so high.  Despite what one may think about the owner, you can't argue against the course and the history.  

 

 

MUIRFIELD: Pure class, outstanding.  This was everything that I hoped for when we planned to play Muirfiield.  We also played under very high winds which only added to the experience.  While there were no vistas like some of the courses, the history is untouchable.  

 

 

 

 

KINGSBARNS: Another incredible course which I feel had moments that felt like Whistling Straits.  Incredibly strong course and prior to this trip probably one of the better courses that I've ever played.  I don't think that it was in the same league as some of the others we played on this trip, but that's purely my take.  It was, however, a fun course that wasn't as penalizing as a Muirfield or RCD.  The fairways were wide and inviting, and there were vistas at every corner.  

 

 

TOC:  This was the other highlight of the trip.  I was in awe.  I've never played a course with shared greens (besides Carnoustie the next day)!  I felt that the course played really short.  I drove one of the greens and hit almost every green in regulation, BUT THAT MEANT NOTHING!  You could easily four put given the quirkiness and sheer size of these greens!  I played TOC under absolute ideal conditions and could see that you could really score on this course with a round or two under your belt.  I loved every second of it.  This was the only course to beat out Carne.  I know that this probably sounds cliche.  I didn't expect much heading into the round, but it exceeded my expectations.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited October 20, 2023 by swo83

[swo83]

CARNOUSTIE:  Did not play as tough as I expected.  Again I was hitting the ball well for me.  There was a lot to like about this course and on some days it would break my top 5.  The closing holes are epic but there really wasn't a weak hole that I can think of.  The bunkers are arranged to penalize any sort of an errant shot.  As long as you play conservative you can score on this course.  We played in med-high winds for the trip and it was pretty wet from rain the week before.  They cancelled the Dunhill Cup on Carnoustie about five days earlier and were still working hard to irrigate the standing water in some areas.  

 

 

ROYAL DORNOCH:  Fabulous.  I can't say enough good things about RD and this is a without a doubt a top 5 on the courses we played.  Many of the greens were "Pinehurst No2 - like" and you can easily see where Donald Ross had his inspiration.  The Scottish highlands were beautiful and this masterpiece is cut flawlessly into the surrounding terrain.  I will also play this course again one day.

 

 

 

CRUDEN BAY:  This reminded me of an Irish Course in Scotland.  There was a great mix of holes starting with on of my favorites, No 4.  This was a par 3 that ran along a stream and town.  The course took you into the dunes after number 4, then up to an incredibly high lookout on no 9, then back down along the coast line before you head back into the dunes.  The routing was fantastic.  It had a great mix of quirkiness too.  It rained persistently for the beginning and ending.  The only weak hole was no 18 along the practice range. 

 

[swo83]

NORTH BERWICK: We ended this long journey with one of my absolute favorite courses of the trip.  Easily top 3 or 4.  The weather was perfect, the course was in great condition and I don't see myself ever visiting Scotland and not trying to play this course.  It was just fun.  There's walls to hit over on multiple holes, quirky green complexes, plenty of interaction with the coastline, a big inactive volcano plug in the distance behind the town.... It was awesome.

 

[Chanceman]

Congratulations on your photos. Great memories to reflect on for many years. 
As for Carne - what can you say? Here’s one of my pics - a par 3 not sure which one, maybe #11 or so.

[swo83]

I think that was on the front nine of the WAD routing, before the uphill par five with the split fairway!  It was my only birdie.

 

Edited October 21, 2023 by swo83

[hammergolf]

On the WAD routing that’s #7. Always remember it because I almost made a one there. My ball ended up 4” behind the hole. 

[imkirby34]

We had a different angle to that par 3 because we were playing from the forward (yellow) tees.  Hehe.  The yellow and red tees were on the opposite side of the previous hole's green from the white and blue tees.  Also, IIRC, that previous hole had that funky, very narrow bunker directly behind the green which I was very glad to have avoided.

 

[Chanceman]

Just an amazing hole. Take me back….

[tad950]

Great job on completing a very ambitious itinerary!  I’ve played all the courses you guys played, except for Turnberry. But it took me four trips. So nice to be young!

[sabram]

1. Fantastic trip

2. Nice trip report and pix

3. Way too much driving for me. (I'm old 😁) I go to England Ireland and Scotland for golf frequently, but focus on only one or two regions at a time

4. Your tastes and favorite courses list are very similar to mine, including appreciation of Portmarnock, which many traveling golfers "don't get". The one nit I have is that I wouldn't have Carne at the top of my list. I really do like Carne a lot, but not more than North Berwick and the Old course. For me it would be with the courses you have tied at #5

5. The par 3 at Carne shown in the four photos posted above was a bit different when I played there. The bunker at the back right of the green was a grass bunker rather than a sand bunker and there was a pool of water as we played the day after a storm and a very wet season

 

 

 

 

[hammergolf]

I’ll be back there in early September. Counting the days!

[ryan983]

Be thankful you played Carne when you did!  It was in awful condition mid July.   Looks like it’s recovered nicely 

[tjl48]

Still in Ireland at the moment before my trip concludes. I played Carne, but only the Hackett routing was open. Very disappointing. The back 9 of the Hackett isn't terrible, but nowhere near the level of the other holes. Very unremarkable. I will need to get back there to get the full experience. I walked the new 9 and it just made me more disappointed I couldn't play it. 

Edited November 8, 2023 by tjl48

[hammergolf]

3 hours ago, tjl48 said:

Still in Ireland at the moment before my trip concludes. I played Carne, but only the Hackett routing was open. Very disappointing. The back 9 of the Hackett isn't terrible, but nowhere near the level of the other holes. Very unremarkable. I will need to get back there to get the full experience. I walked the new 9 and it just made me more disappointed I couldn't play it. 

The WAD routing should be the every day course, with the Hackett being the 9 hole option. 

Edited November 9, 2023 by hammergolf

[tjl48]

9 hours ago, hammergolf said:

The WAD routing should be the every day course, with the Hackett being the 9 hole option. 

Agreed. 10, 11, maybe 16, and probably 18 felt like they fit with the front. Rest felt like a completely different course. 

[hammergolf]

5 hours ago, tjl48 said:

Agreed. 10, 11, maybe 16, and probably 18 felt like they fit with the front. Rest felt like a completely different course. 

The Kilmore 9, is hands down the best 9 holes on the property and what is added to the front 9 of the original Hackett to make the Wild Atlantic Dunes course. It’s a shame you didn’t get a chance to play it. I’m taking a group there in August.