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Using .355 ferrules on a .370 shaft?


zip7111

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Hello,

I have some .355 ferrules that I want to use on .370 tip shafts.  Am I able to use a drill bit to drill out the ID of the ferrule without damaging it?  If so, what is the best size bit to get the job done with 1 pass?  The ferrules I have are not available in .370 or I would just order them.

Thanks,

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I've never reamed anything just used a torch to warm the ferrule up and tap it on like normal 

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All shafts are .370 (or very close) where the ferrule sits.

TaylorMade 300 Mini 11.5° -  Attas 11 7S
Honma TW747 5 wood - Vizard 70 S

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17 minutes ago, autronicdsm said:

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If you don't want to damage ferrules while installing them, just use a 0.370 reamer.

Anytime you use heat to warm them up you might damage the bottoms when you tap them on because it's too soft imo. Done it before.

I just can't imagine heating it with a torch and tapping it on lol. 

I've done probably 20 wedges and 5-6 sets this way.... never a problem unless you're a moron and melt the ferrule

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Mizuno T22 Copper 50/54 - Project X Blackout 7.0 Spinners

Vokey 58 T Grind - Project X 6.5 Blackout

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2 hours ago, autronicdsm said:

If you don't want to damage ferrules while installing them, just use a 0.370 reamer.

Anytime you use heat to warm them up you might damage the bottoms when you tap them on because it's too soft imo. Done it before.

I just can't imagine heating it with a torch and tapping it on lol. 

I would prefer to not have to spend 50.00 to buy a reamer from Golfworks to do 1 set of ferrules.

Edited by zip7111
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Just now, Stuart_G said:

 

If you use boiling water instead, you can be a moron and it will still work really well 😄

 

I've just had rust show up above the hosels when I've tried that.  I blow them off with compressed air till my ears bleed and have still seen some weird rust show up when I pull things apart for one reason or another 

 

Being a moron is always an option for sure. 

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15 minutes ago, Phabs said:

I've just had rust show up above the hosels when I've tried that.

 

Not a problem with the graphite shafts I use. 🙂

 

But interesting, never heard of anyone else having that problem.  It shouldn't get so much heat that it effects the chrome covering the shaft.  Certainly not more than using a torch might.   The water itself should be gone way too quickly to cause any rust.

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Have you tried a test fit of the ferrules on the shafts? You might find they slide on with no issue. If they are tight getting them on the shaft all the way, run some hot water from a tap and put the ferrule/shaft under the running water, tip down. Maybe 15-30 seconds. Slide the shaft into the hosel and tap the butt end on a board (softer than concrete) to drive the shaft into the hosel. Dry any water droplets with a towel, compressed air or hair dryer if you want. Apply epoxy to shaft and hosel, insert, spin a bit to distribute, pull out, apply just bit more epoxy to shaft, insert, one spin to set graphics and a final butt tap to seat at full insertion depth, wipe any excess epoxy at hosel/ferrule joint. (I know you know the details, but someone new to club building may find it helpful). I just used the hot water trick on a  tight .355 ferrule on a taper tip graphite shaft into a wedge. In the past I've used the rat tail file suggestion, but found hot water the easiest. Some people put hot water in a cup/glass and let the ferrule soak for 15 seconds or so and then install on the shaft.

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7 hours ago, zip7111 said:

Hello,

I have some .355 ferrules that I want to use on .370 tip shafts.  Am I able to use a drill bit to drill out the ID of the ferrule without damaging it?  If so, what is the best size bit to get the job done with 1 pass?  The ferrules I have are not available in .370 or I would just order them.

Thanks,

You don’t need to bore them out. Just drop them in boiling water for a few seconds. This will soften them and they will slide right on the .370 shafts.

Ping G440 10.5 @ Flat - setting Fujikura Ventus Blue TR 5 Reg
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