Another PXG reshafting question

[southpaw72]

I come to you as a relatively novice club builder who wants to make sure I get my 0211st’s built right. I have the centering caps and pxg collared ferrules from golfworks. Prep work is done meticulously as always.
 

When dry fitting am I right to assume these just need copious amounts of epoxy? I know the hosel is more of a .390 and with the .355 taper tips I can do the math on empty space. Seeing an iron head go flying is my biggest fear as a lefty who can’t always replace them as easily lol. 

[jah7838]

I don’t know if copious amounts of epoxy is the right amount, but if you put epoxy in the head, and epoxy in the shaft, that should be plenty.  Excess epoxy will come out of the head after you install the shaft.  
 

Shafting beads or quick center mixed in with the epoxy will help as well. The collared ferrules are going to help a lot with keeping the shafts centered as well. 

[DYOS4]

The caps and the PXG ferrules should be just fine. 

[southpaw72]

2 hours ago, jah7838 said:

I don’t know if copious amounts of epoxy is the right amount, but if you put epoxy in the head, and epoxy in the shaft, that should be plenty.  Excess epoxy will come out of the head after you install the shaft.  
 

Shafting beads or quick center mixed in with the epoxy will help as well. The collared ferrules are going to help a lot with keeping the shafts centered as well. 

Slightly exaggerated using that term but it’s far more space to fill than using a little shafting beads will make up for.  I typically throw a little in just because though I know the argument exists it’s not necessary. The pxg design just seems a little odd. I guess that’s fitting though haha. 

[bekgolf]

This has come up before.  I can recall others using shims.  https://www.golfworks.com/the-golfworks-brass-adaptor-shims/p/shim/

[iRod]

4 hours ago, southpaw72 said:

Slightly exaggerated using that term but it’s far more space to fill than using a little shafting beads will make up for.  I typically throw a little in just because though I know the argument exists it’s not necessary. The pxg design just seems a little odd. I guess that’s fitting though haha. 

I remember reading somewhere that the PING/PXG hosel designs(they are basically the same), use the epoxy as a cushion for the shaft. So yes they do require more epoxy than most when assembling. The centering caps should do most of the work, but I always add some beads in the epoxy to fill in any remaining space.

[southpaw72]

6 hours ago, bekgolf said:

This has come up before.  I can recall others using shims.  https://www.golfworks.com/the-golfworks-brass-adaptor-shims/p/shim/

I’ve read that. So forego the centering cap and use a shim? I have both on hand so I guess I have options. 

[jah7838]

17 hours ago, southpaw72 said:

Slightly exaggerated using that term but it’s far more space to fill than using a little shafting beads will make up for.  I typically throw a little in just because though I know the argument exists it’s not necessary. The pxg design just seems a little odd. I guess that’s fitting though haha. 

As long as you have the right collared ferrules and the centering caps, you’ll be fine. I’ve worked in a golf shop building and fixing clubs, and as long as we have the right Ping ferrules, we don’t need a shim. Same for PXG. If there’s no correct ferrule, we will have to shim it. 

[Mikey_HACKilroy]

PXG prefers that you not use regular brass shims and instead use the cups and collared ferrules.

Best results are had using a 24hr cure epoxy over the fast set stuff, and I would - like others - recommend some centering sand. The Aluminum Oxide stuff works at the right quantity. 

 

Brampton epoxies are great, but other 24hr cure epoxies are fine, too. I like the stuff in the bottles; it's easier and you can still portion it correctly. Also, the clips below are great at keeping everything stable once assembled.

 

https://www.golfworks.com/golf-mechanix-head-to-shaft-drying-clip/p/gm1035/

 

Mix your sand in with the epoxy at the same time at a mix of 5-10% by volume. That's essentially a pinch; you can estimate it. You just don't want to use too much sand.

 

I used epoxy with no sand on the ferrule and then slid it onto the tip to a tiny mark I made just under the finished depth (so it is hidden when finished).

I used the separate mix with the sand in it on the shaft and in the hosel. I placed a liberal quantity on the shaft and rolled the applicator around inside the hosel with fresh epoxy, too. On the collar I ensured I had a good epoxy coating and then added some sand only to the collar to give more of a solid connection between the hosel and ferrule. Then I inserted while twisting in one direction slowly to ensure I didn't force too much epoxy out of the joint.

Once done, you just wipe off the excess epoxy and attach the drying clips appropriately to keep it straight. If you did your job well, they'll already be straight. The clips keep it from moving if you jostle the club unintentionally.

If you're finishing with a belt sander, you can use linen, or you can use 2500 grit 1x30 belts. They're very fine and carefully turning the club in the opposite direction of the belt will provide good removal and a good shine. It's good enough that you don't have to use any acetone, but that's still an option for optimal shine.

I used 2000 grit, but the 2500 grit would be even better. I initially used felt, but without an appropriate bench and jig, it can chew them up real easy. A 2500grit belt won't do that, but it will remove material quickly enough if you're not careful (but it still does take longer than other options). It's a nice polish with 2000, though.

Edited July 24, 2024 by Mikey_HACKilroy

[Nessism]

With a cup spacer on the shaft tip, and a collared ferrule, the shaft will be held centered in the hosel.  Using filler materials in the epoxy does nothing, except for reducing strength.  

 

As with any club, clean the hosel out well using a wire brush or similar, then follow with a sanding sleeve driven by a mandrel in your drill motor.

 

Before bonding, clean both the shaft tip and hosel ID using acetone or MEK.  

 

Before installing the ferrule, coat the shaft tip.  The epoxy will help hold the ferrule in place and reduce the tendency to creep over time.

 

Use plenty of epoxy down in the hosel, because there will be a fair bit of space to fill.  Also, coat the shaft.  A quality adhesive like 3M 810NS or 8410NS is ideal.  It's thick, and won't sag while curing.  These adhesives cure FAST, so work fast.  Fast cure adhesives, if a quality adhesive, will cure just as strong as slow dry.

 

 

[southpaw72]

53 minutes ago, Nessism said:

With a cup spacer on the shaft tip, and a collared ferrule, the shaft will be held centered in the hosel.  Using filler materials in the epoxy does nothing, except for reducing strength.  

 

As with any club, clean the hosel out well using a wire brush or similar, then follow with a sanding sleeve driven by a mandrel in your drill motor.

 

Before bonding, clean both the shaft tip and hosel ID using acetone or MEK.  

 

Before installing the ferrule, coat the shaft tip.  The epoxy will help hold the ferrule in place and reduce the tendency to creep over time.

 

Use plenty of epoxy down in the hosel, because there will be a fair bit of space to fill.  Also, coat the shaft.  A quality adhesive like 3M 810NS or 8410NS is ideal.  It's thick, and won't sag while curing.  These adhesives cure FAST, so work fast.  Fast cure adhesives, if a quality adhesive, will cure just as strong as slow dry.

 

 

Perfect info that reinforces what I “thought”

 

I'm not well versed in epoxy like many of you. I have been using golf works maximum strength high impact epoxy. NOT the tour set max strength. Should I get some other stuff on hand for this and future work? 
 

edit- just read that the 3m 810 is all pxg uses and that’s good enough for me. I’m assuming I don’t need to order another epoxy dispense if I have a 1:1 and 1:2 gun from golf works? Was planning on ordering from Billy bobs 

Edited July 25, 2024 by southpaw72

[Mikey_HACKilroy]

Centering Sand has opinions centered around use or don't use. The tiny amount used does little to reduce the strength of the bond.

Now, if you're digging graves with your clubs, then maybe you've got something to worry about. Otherwise, use or don't use as you desire.

 

Edit: Based on direct experience, the cups did their job about a third of the time with little detectable play, but the collars were not sufficient to stabilize the shaft completely. Maybe I'm a perfectionist, but they seemed substandard to me.

Edited July 25, 2024 by Mikey_HACKilroy

[Adam C]

Get the brass shims and use whatever ferrule you want.

 

The spacers and collared ferrules are not worth the effort and don't be surprised when the premature ferrule creep starts if you do choose to use them. 

 

 

[southpaw72]

Maybe pxg builds aren’t for me or club building in general haha. I don’t even know where to start with these now lol. Haven’t had issue before with anything but haven’t built a ton. Will be getting some of the DP8410NS for these and go from there 

[Dan541]

On 7/25/2024 at 8:41 AM, Adam C said:

Get the brass shims and use whatever ferrule you want.

 

The spacers and collared ferrules are not worth the effort and don't be surprised when the premature ferrule creep starts if you do choose to use them. 

 

 

I agree 100%. The collared ferrules are a poor choice and is the reason PXG's are notorious for ferrule creep. I've reshafted two sets of my own PXG's (0311 Gen 3 and Black Ops) and several more for clients and friends...shims are the way to go if you want a perfectly solid fix...with the added benefit of using any .370 ferrule you desire (the collarded ferrules only come in Black)!

[ScottyGolf]

To add my 2 cents as I have owned and re-shafted multiple sets of the 0211ST. They don't require the center caps.  As I doubted myself for second, I just put a center cap on a .355 shaft and inserted into an 8 iron head that I still own of the 0211ST, then barely went in. Does not require the cap.  Similar to the Sugar daddy wedges.

 

As for the PXG collared ferrules, I have no issues with creep. I will use a wire brush and rough up a small area on the bottom inside of the ferrule, a tiny dab of epoxy, push the ferrule up in place, then use your epoxy and go.

 

Good luck.