Epoxy question

[Nialler]

Hi guys!

 

I am fitting a new driver shaft and don't have time to order golf epoxy. I have other epoxy and am wondering will it work at least temporarily? I have 2 rounds to play this week and then I will have some Bramptons or Golfworks. if the clubhead is guaranteed to fly off there is no point obviously.

[MickeyTankBank]

Depends on what the other epoxy is

[ShortGolfer]

The primary advantage of golf epoxy is a low enough melting temperature to allow removal of graphite shafts with a a proper shaft extractor.  Graphite can be damaged by a twisting motion.

[Nialler]

1 minute ago, ShortGolfer said:

The primary advantage of golf epoxy is a low enough melting temperature to allow removal of graphite shafts with a a proper shaft extractor.  Graphite can be damaged by a twisting motion.

So it will work as good but that is the main downside? I just need it to stay on for 2 rounds of golf. I am changing shafts anyway so I wont care about damaging the shaft after if I have to

[Nialler]

18 minutes ago, MickeyTankBank said:

Depends on what the other epoxy is

It is a 2 part epoxy resin with hardener

[mogc60]

8 minutes ago, Nialler said:

It is a 2 part epoxy resin with hardener

You should be fine. Golf epoxy really isn’t anything fancy in theory it’s just best suited for the twisting and impact of the golf club. But most epoxies will work. 

[Nialler]

2 minutes ago, mogc60 said:

You should be fine. Golf epoxy really isn’t anything fancy in theory it’s just best suited for the twisting and impact of the golf club. But most epoxies will work. 

Well thats pretty reassuring. I am playing some pretty long tracks this week and the last thing I want to be doing is picking up my driver head off the floor and having to use a 3 wood 😂

[Socrates]

39 minutes ago, Nialler said:

It is a 2 part epoxy resin with hardener

That helps us...NOT.  What brand and what name of that brand?

[Nialler]

5 minutes ago, Socrates said:

That helps us...NOT.  What brand and what name of that brand?

Hannons 2 part hang tuff epoxy resin and hardener. I am not in the US so maybe brands are different

[shokosugi]

54 minutes ago, Nialler said:

It is a 2 part epoxy resin with hardener

Maybe look at the shear strength of the epoxy and compare it to the golf ones? Might give you an idea on whether it is adequate or not. I'm guessing that as long it is as strong as the 5 minute golf epoxy, you should be fine

[ShortGolfer]

AI says that is a type of super glue?

[Nessism]

It's generic clear fast hardening hardware store grade epoxy.  You will likely be fine, as long as you prep the parts properly.

 

Remove all old epoxy out of the hosel/adapter, and off the shaft.  If the shaft hole is plugged, drill it out.

 

Use sandpaper, rolled up into a tube to scrub out the inside of the hosel/adapter.  Scrub until all old epoxy is gone, and you can see fresh scratch metal.  then, use some Acetone, Isopropyl Alcohol, or MEK to clean the hosel and degrease.  Do the same for the shaft.

 

Trial fit the shaft, to make sure it fits easily into the hosel.

 

Mix the epoxy and mix like crazy.  Don't skimp.

 

Coat both the inside of the hosel, and the outside of the shaft, and shove the shaft in.

 

Wipe up splooge out quickly, set the shaft, head down, and don't touch it.

 

Keep the remnant mixed epoxy, and don't touch the shaft/head, until the epoxy hardens up good and hard.  If it's hot where you live, put the club in the sun for a few hours.  

 

Done.  

Edited April 14 by Nessism

[kosmo]

Whats the bond strength? Anything around 3000-4000 PSI is ok. I use JB Weld. 

Edited April 15 by kosmo

[Socrates]

1 hour ago, Nialler said:

Hannons 2 part hang tuff epoxy resin and hardener. I am not in the US so maybe brands are different

In the Hannons tuff epoxy there are several that wouldn't be suitable for metal.  Make sure whichever one you have isn't for electrical products.

[Nessism]

I was assuming it's this stuff...

 

[llewol007]

Like others have said, look at sheer strength but also if you are able to remove the shaft again if needed. Most two part epoxy’s are strong enough but has to have a longer cure time as well.

[Nessism]

9 hours ago, llewol007 said:

Like others have said, look at sheer strength but also if you are able to remove the shaft again if needed. Most two part epoxy’s are strong enough but has to have a longer cure time as well.

 

Hardware store epoxies don't publish shear strength numbers.  They plaster info like "2 Ton" on the package, which is meaningless.

Edited April 15 by Nessism

[Stuart_G]

On 4/14/2025 at 8:19 PM, kosmo said:

Whats the bond strength? Anything around 3000-4000 PSI is ok. I use JB Weld. 

 

Actually, only 2400 psi lap shear strength is generally considered more than enough for most amateurs.  Maybe 2600 psi for super fast swing speeds.

 

The other important spec is Glass Transition temperature (Tg) - which you don't want to be too high for graphite shafts.  IMO  < 200^* F

 

That's if you can actually find them.  Usually from the manufacturers web site.  You're not usually going to find either on the packaging.

 

Edited June 5 by Stuart_G

[st1800e]

If it’s that Hannons epoxy shown above, it’s of unknown specs.  It appears it’s a Poundland house brand. I suspect Poundland is the equivalent of generic dollar stores in N. America.   Unknown quality or specs.  
 

The JB ClearWeld has a shear strength of 2000 psi.  According to McMaster Carr.  Not sure that’s high enough, although I’ve read on the forum others have used it.  
 

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/j-b-weld-epoxy-adhesives/

[Nialler]

I was not allowed to post as I was new and there was a limit. It all worked out in the end. I am hitting the driver great too (Ping G430 lst)

The random Epoxy I had worked fine.

 

Thanks everyone here for the advice 👍