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Help getting setup to swap out shafts


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Looking to get some equipment to help swap out some shafts and adapters.  I am looking to replace all my woods, and my son is getting into golf more...which I'm sure will lead to future shaft issues.  So thought I would go ahead and get the tools I need to swap out the shafts and adapters myself.  Could you guys recommend some tools?  Right now I was planning to get the clubmakers universal vise and the universal graphite shaft extractor (the  value shaft extractor is out of stock).  I guess I also need a heat gun or torch as well.  Anything else? Obviously, I have some basic tools at my workbench.  Thank you all! 

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-If you're working with graphite, you 100% need an extractor. As mentioned above, they usually require a vise.   I've used this one with great success:https://www.golfmechanix.com/co/items.aspx?pdts=single&pdtno=210022

 

-I use a small kitchen butane torch - I find I can apply heat more precisely.  Would definitely recommend torch over heat gun.  

 

-Glass Shafting Beads are a nice to have, I try to use finer ones for graphite. 

 

-Use quality epoxy, notate working time and cure time.  I like to use DP810 - it's only got like 8-10 minutes working time but for 1 or 2 clubs, it's perfect.  But supposedly it's what they use on the tour truck.  

 

-Epoxy gun if you're getting the tube kind

 

-Hosel wire brush https://www.golfworks.com/wire-hosel-cleaning-bits/p/gw0160/?srsltid=AfmBOorKMdGDh2mLciXCWlpneUZc3WMutJ04CCapJAplP7m5l4FuWd73

 

-Acetone to clean stuff

 

Keys to success:

 

Prep everything before you glue, have patience, watch youtube.

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10 hours ago, clemsondds said:

Do you use a heat gun? 

 

I know it sounds counter-intuitive but using a torch (propane or larger butane) is much less likely to damage graphite shafts.   How hot the shaft tip gets is much more about how long it takes to break the epoxy bond than the temperature being applied to the hossel.  And the most of the energy generated in the heat gun gets wasted - so it takes a lot longer to get the epoxy to breaking temperature.

 

The spring loading shaft extractors are worth the extra money IMO to also help prevent using too much heat and damaging graphite shafts

https://www.golfworks.com/the-golfworks-enhanced-graphite-shaft-extractor/p/gw1009/

 

Lots of threads here in the forum on options for different epoxies - do a search and review some of them before making a decision.

 

For cutting shafts to length - you can always just start with a hack saw (for graphite) and pipe cutter for steel.

 

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Titleist GT3 9 Graphite Design AD HD-6 X

Taylormade Qi35 Tour 3 wood - Diamana WB73X

TaylorMade Qi35 Tour 5 wood Ventus Velocore Red TR 7x

TM 2023 P7MB P-5 MMT 125 TX SS and P7MC 4 iron MMT125 TX  SS (or) Callaway AI Smoke 7 wood

TM 2023 P7MB P-8 MMT 105TX SS, P7MC 7, 2024, P770 with 105TX SS.

Titleist 620MB P-4 MMT 125 Stiff

PXG SD IIl 50(51), SD IIl Full Face 56 (55) and SDIII Full Face 60 (59) S400 Tour

Scotty Cameron Circle T Tour Rat GSS

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1 hour ago, ScottyGolf said:

FYI, the shaft extractor that @Stuart_G linked comes with this adapter saver kit.  And yes, it's far easier to remove adapters with this kit.  I would highly recommend this one over the vice mounted extractor.  The spring loading feature helps keep you from using too much heat.  I rarely feel any heat on the shaft after the adapter breaks loose.  And it bolts to the table, so you wouldn't also need the vice.  Pro tip, the pads aren't great at holding the shaft, so I took an ~8" section of an old grip and sliced it open.  I wrap that around the shaft to help hold it in the extractor.  

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Jaws Raw Full Toe 53 & 58 deg - Modus 125

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Use a torch, NEVER a heat gun, for pulling shafts.  Inexperienced builders think that a heat gun reduces heat added to the components, but the opposite is true.

 

NEVER use Golfworks Tour Set epoxy.  NEVER.  There are more failures of Tour Set epoxy than all other brands of epoxy combined.

 

Sorry, but this info is well documented in older posts here.  

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Ping G425 5 wood & hybrid
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9 minutes ago, Nessism said:

Use a torch, NEVER a heat gun, for pulling shafts.  Inexperienced builders think that a heat gun reduces heat added to the components, but the opposite is true.

 

NEVER use Golfworks Tour Set epoxy.  NEVER.  There are more failures of Tour Set epoxy than all other brands of epoxy combined.

 

Sorry, but this info is well documented in older posts here.  

Yes, I think everyone seems to agree that a torch is better. thanks

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Everyone has already shared what I use. 

I would also add that patience and confidence are needed. 🙂 Its not rocket science!

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Titliest TSR2 16.5* (@A1) Ventus TR Blue 8X

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Just now, clemsondds said:

which epoxy do you guys recommend if gw tour set epoxy is not good? thanks

 

I use 3M or Loctite/Hysol.  If you want to use Golfworks, use the old standard 24 hour shafting epoxy, or their VB1001 High Impact Epoxy.

Ping G400 Max driver w/Aldila Rogue 125 Silver
Ping G425 5 wood & hybrid
Ping G30 irons w/Recoil 95S

PXG Gen3 XP irons w/MMT 80S
Ping Glide wedges w/Recoil 110S
Ping Redwood Anser - the "real deal!"

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Obligatoric
Get a good ruler (i suggest Mitchell)
Get a digital caliper
a good digital gram scale who measure down to 0.1 gram as resolution


Optional
A grip tape scraper is very handy.

link to Michell club length ruler
https://www.mitchellgolf.com/shop/repair-tools/clublength-measuring-tools/clublength-ruler-measuring-tool-kit/



 

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DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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20 hours ago, Nessism said:

 

I use 3M or Loctite/Hysol.  If you want to use Golfworks, use the old standard 24 hour shafting epoxy, or their VB1001 High Impact Epoxy.

I read somewhere that using non "golf" specific epoxy can be difficult to remove due to high heat requirements and possibly damaging the shaft.  Any thoughts about this?  I would like to know that that I can remove the adapter without damaging the shaft if I need to.  What's been everyone's experience.  Thanks!

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46 minutes ago, clemsondds said:

I read somewhere that using non "golf" specific epoxy can be difficult to remove due to high heat requirements and possibly damaging the shaft.  Any thoughts about this?  I would like to know that that I can remove the adapter without damaging the shaft if I need to.  What's been everyone's experience.  Thanks!

 

Most OEM's use industrial grade adhesives, such as 3M DP810, DP420, DP460, etc.  These adhesives are easily broken down with heat, while at the same time, they are not brittle and very strong.

 

Some people short-cut the build process, using poor prep and/or cheap adhesives, and they "never had a problem" (as we read here commonly).

 

One of the reasons for this is because some clubs have a nice snug shaft fit, a long insertion depth, etc, so they don't stress the bond joint like some others clubs.  PXG or Ping, for example, have a short insertion depth, and a lot of shaft to hosel wall clearance.  The worst possible fit.  

 

Also, some people don't prep the hosel and shaft, properly.  Same thing as above.  You may get lucky, or maybe not.  And then the question becomes: what happens when you sell the clubs, and the next guy stores them in the trunk of their car in Texas on a summer day?

 

To me: always use best practice when building.  Always use quality materials.  Don't take chances, someone could get hurt.

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Ping G400 Max driver w/Aldila Rogue 125 Silver
Ping G425 5 wood & hybrid
Ping G30 irons w/Recoil 95S

PXG Gen3 XP irons w/MMT 80S
Ping Glide wedges w/Recoil 110S
Ping Redwood Anser - the "real deal!"

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