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I bought a new shaft for my driver. I ordered it so my driver would be 44.75” about an inch shorter than I used to play. I wanted more control and a shorter length felt better to me. Now I am reading about the driver weight and I think i may have messed things up with the swing weight. I am 5’9 and average about 93mph swing speed. It is a elyte driver 9 degree with a ventus blue 6-r flex. I havent hit it yet but go to the range tomorrow but i can tell my swing speed went down a touch on my radar in the backyard. 

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43 minutes ago, eagles88 said:

I bought a new shaft for my driver. I ordered it so my driver would be 44.75” about an inch shorter than I used to play. I wanted more control and a shorter length felt better to me. Now I am reading about the driver weight and I think i may have messed things up with the swing weight. I am 5’9 and average about 93mph swing speed. It is a elyte driver 9 degree with a ventus blue 6-r flex. I havent hit it yet but go to the range tomorrow but i can tell my swing speed went down a touch on my radar in the backyard. 

 

Do you have a shop nearby who can take a look at it? Worth finding out the swing weight exactly before you tinker.

 

You are likely to lose some speed/distance with a shorter shaft, but it shouldn't be massively noticeable - I believe in the realm of 3-10 yards of carry.

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Just get some lead tape and add weight until the driver gets to the weight you like. You might need more/less than you think. Its not necessary to hit a particular swing weight

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I now play 44.5” and have never been more consistent with center strikes and workability, no loss of distance. I played half a season gripping up from 45.5”, then took the leap and never looked back. 
 

Swingweight after shortening happened to be right where the majority of my set lives, which I think was the key in my case. Agree with lead tape to get to a spot that feels right. 

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I’ve been in a 44.5” for over 5 years.   I added roughly 3 grams back to the head to keep it around D2.   44.5 with no added weight was around D0.   
 

Go through the self driver fitting thread…. wealth of knowledge in there. 

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I think it is counterproductive to know the swingweight before you start adding lead tape.  Just add tape until it "feels right."

 

My clubs are usually two inches short.  I'm now using an old 13* Big Bertha Titanium as a back yard practice club.  Works great with it just cut down to 42 inches.

I garden constantly, sometimes several hours a day, so I have unusually good fine motion skills with both hands.  I experimented for months with after market weights for Callaway drivers and lead tape and concluded that I swing well with light clubs.

Edited by ShortGolfer
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12 hours ago, eagles88 said:

I bought a new shaft for my driver. I ordered it so my driver would be 44.75” about an inch shorter than I used to play. I wanted more control and a shorter length felt better to me. Now I am reading about the driver weight and I think i may have messed things up with the swing weight. I am 5’9 and average about 93mph swing speed. It is a elyte driver 9 degree with a ventus blue 6-r flex. I havent hit it yet but go to the range tomorrow but i can tell my swing speed went down a touch on my radar in the backyard. 

 

First thing to always do is swing what you already have. It may be perfect as is. An Elyte driver at your 44.75" length should be around D0. Lighter than average but very much in the realm of playing good golf.

 

If stock length is 45.75", adding 10g back to the head will return the swing weight to stock. Keep in mind, it is very likely stock swing weight is not your exact fit, but it is a good number to keep in mind.

 

I recommend adding ~2.5g at a time to the head with lead tape. Make a few swings, note the flight and metrics, then add another 2.5g and do the same. You can do this in 2.5g increments (1 swing weight point) or you can also do this in 5g increments (2 swing weight points). Depending on how sensitive you are to swing weight, testing 2 swing points (5g) at a time will likely be easier to feel the difference. Swing feel, your ability to square the face, and your awareness of the club head in transition are the biggest aspects to look for. You'll be able to do this test either on a monitor or the range. Your mainly honing in on feel.

 

After you figure out how much weight added feels best, let's assume you add 5g, you can leave the tape as is and play it like that or seek out a 5g heavier weight screw to add in the club head.

 

With most .5" wide lead tape, it is 1g per 2 inches. Golf shops also have 3g lead sticker tabs that are very good for this project, but are a bit less permanent.

Edited by Ty_Guy

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I agree with some of the other posts.  I would go hit it on a launch monitor without adding any weight to the head.  

Then add some lead tape to get it to D2/D3 (or whatever you think), and see if it helps/hurts.  

If you like the added weight, you can order some weights for the head, just take the tape off and put it on a scale to see how heavy.

 

You may end up liking the lower swingweight anyway so it might not matter.

Golf Galaxy would be able to get you on a range with a LM and check your swing weight for you. 

 

Hope that helps!

 

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14 hours ago, BYK said:

I been in a shorter driver for years now.  The better contact had me driving it further than I ever have.  So I don't think shorter length always equates less distance.

💯

 

If I connect perfectly with the longer and shorter shaft lengths, I may lose 1-2mph ball speed with the shorter shaft length, but I’m connecting better more often with the shorter shaft length, so  my smash factor is higher on average, my spin/launch numbers are more consistent, and my driving distance on average is up with the added benefit of hitting more fairways 

 

What is lost in swing speed, is gained on average in smash, launch, spin and ball speed. 
 

.

Edited by Drivingrangehero
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11 hours ago, Phabs said:

I’ve been in a 44.5” for over 5 years.   I added roughly 3 grams back to the head to keep it around D2.   44.5 with no added weight was around D0.   
 

Go through the self driver fitting thread…. wealth of knowledge in there. 

that hotmelt will go down in history 🏆

Edited by rsballer10
grammar
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2 minutes ago, rsballer10 said:

that hotmelt will go down in history 🏆

Not really.  Can still hotmelt my way to a round of 90 🤣

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10 minutes ago, Phabs said:

Not really.  Can still hotmelt my way to a round of 90 🤣

We've all been there. Once a year I forget which end of the club to hold 🤣

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Well everyone I learned my lesson. I went to a place and rented a trackman. Im losing about 5-7mph of speed over my old length and my spin rate is ranging from 1700-2100. Not sure why the spin changed. Anyway think im just going to go get fitted for a new shaft and put this Ventus in the classifieds. Hate to waste money like this but oh well. Thanks everyone for the advice. Im an idiot when it comes to tinkering with stuff. 

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4 hours ago, Drivingrangehero said:

💯

 

If I connect perfectly with the longer and shorter shaft lengths, I may lose 1-2mph ball speed with the shorter shaft length, but I’m connecting better more often with the shorter shaft length, so  my smash factor is higher on average, my spin/launch numbers are more consistent, and my driving distance on average is up with the added benefit of hitting more fairways 

 

What is lost in swing speed, is gained on average in smash, launch, spin and ball speed. 
 

.

 

This is where I am on the subject.  I went to an "extreme" with my experimenting.  For clarity, I am 5'8".  I have a Ping G440 driver and 7-Wood.  My 7W shaft is chopped down to 41".  The driver and fairways are interchangeable in terms of shafts.  I put the 41" 7W shaft on the driver, and the results were eye opening.  My TOP swing speed went down 3mph.  My AVERAGE swing speed is the same.  I attribute that to the longer shaft feeling like "more work" to get to top speed than the shorter shaft.  I definitely make better contact with the shorter shaft, leading to more consistent results.  I also feel like I can be "on top of the ball" in the swing.  That is something that I have never experienced with a driver...ever...due to the club length relative to my height.

 

I'm not going back.  My 7W shaft is staying in the driver and I am going to put an even shorter shaft in the 7W.

 

 

 

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I’m 5’9” with long arms and play my 7w at 41” as well, my 5w at 41.5”. 
 

I could probably go shorter than 44.5” on my driver, but haven’t done so. My driving is pretty good at that length. 
 

I made a 390cc Thriver (that I don’t carry in my bag)  that is 43” and see about 3mph loss from my driver with it, but the way I have it set up, it’s a draw only club for me, being that I drilled out foam, and added 18g or weight to the head inline with the shaft. I did that build after briefly having a 14° SLDR mini driver that was laser straight. I loved the balance and weight of the club,  but it only went about the same distance as my 5w because of the high launch and spin (I play my Driver at 7.5°) 
 

I am getting another driver head that has the same adapter as my driver, and have considered cutting my back up shaft down to 43” where I can set up the head weights in a more more neutral position so I can play a fade or draw.

 

I don’t really have the room (or need) for it in my bag, but I may bring it out for scrambles. Who knows, maybe it will end up as my gamer ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ 

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On 7/17/2025 at 8:36 PM, eagles88 said:

I think i may have messed things up with the swing weight. 

 

What exactly did you do with the swing weight?

 

If you used the swing weight "rules" to increase the head weight for the lower playing length - then yes, there is a decent chance you messed up and added way too much.   

 

If this is what you did, then the next question is how excactly did you add the weight?   

 

e.g. A changeable head weight is not a problem to fix - but might have just been a little money wasted.  It can be easily removed and replaced with a different size. However If hotmelt was used, it's not impossible but it can be a PITA to remove.  

 

If you did nothing to the head weight - that may not be a problem.  Lot's of people go shorter with the driver and are fine with needing to add any weight to the head.  And if not, it's actually easy to add weight.  The question is how much.

 

But in either case (assuming you can remove any added weight), there is a useful guide to help you dial in what the new head weight should be with the new playing length.  All you need is some lead tape, foot powder spray, and a bucket of balls at the driving range..

 

 

16 hours ago, eagles88 said:

Well everyone I learned my lesson. I went to a place and rented a trackman. Im losing about 5-7mph of speed over my old length and my spin rate is ranging from 1700-2100. Not sure why the spin changed. Anyway think im just going to go get fitted for a new shaft and put this Ventus in the classifieds. Hate to waste money like this but oh well. Thanks everyone for the advice. Im an idiot when it comes to tinkering with stuff. 

 

Don't jump the gun on the shaft quite yet.   You're not an idiot - you just haven't finished the process.

 

Why are you seeing those changes?  Because head weight - and the combination of head weight and playing length can have a HUGE impact on release timing and the dynamic loft delivered and on face impact location - both of which are WAY bigger contributors to launch and spin and even ball speed than the shaft for most.

 

Before you blame the shaft, get the head weight properly adjusted first for consistent center face impact, good shot shape control, accuracy and dispersion.    Then take another look at your numbers.

 

Second, shaft should not be fit for launch and spin - that can end up as a wild goose chase. Shaft should also be fit primarily for consistency, dispersion, shot shape control, accuracy and many times just for a good feel.    Leave launch and spin to the loft and head model.   

 

But even if you do want to try to tweak launch and spin with a shaft change (some still do) - then you still have to FIRST dial in the head weight for the new playing length before the results with any other shaft are going to be usable or meaningful.

 

If the shaft was a good fit before reducing the playing length and the added head weight negatively effected the feel of the shaft - it just means you probably should have tipped the shaft a bit more (then butt cut the rest).

 

 

 

 

Edited by Stuart_G
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