A few questions regarding club building

[HJK60]

Thanks again for all the help. 

Yep, so I just ordered:
- wire brushes (drill bit style)

- shaft length ruler with 60 deg stop at the bottom per usga conformity standards

^I will dry fit all shafts in their respective head before cutting. If adding a swing weight, I will dry fit with weight in the shaft, then cut. Butt of grip also adds 1/8 of an inch, so will cut an 1/8 below what I want, or I may leave that part out. Mentally I almost like the idea of the shaft/head being true to length with no grip. 
- brass shaft tip weights (.355 in 2 grams sets and 4 gram sets - 12 pack for each)

- ferrule installation tool
- ferrules (.875 length and .570 OD)

- I did buy some quick center and am going to mix with epoxy

 

Off to Home Depot to get: 
- epoxy (EW guy sent me a pic of the 3M stuff they use)

- epoxy sticks/cups

- acetone

 

I have: 
- drill/bits

- butane torch

- heat gun

 

 

Once done, am going to take to a shop to have them sand the ferrules and turn if needed. Don't see how you could accurately do this manually with some sandpaper being held or without a table grinder, which I don't have.

 

Anything I'm missing? Luckily, I already know - roughly, but pretty accurately - what the swing weights will be. Remember I just pulled these from a bad build and knew the swing weights there. I need to cut this 4-iron shaft I'm getting in the mail today, so will dry fit that to my 4-iron head with a 2-g shaft tip weight (might go 4g in the 4, 5, and 6-irons), then cut... I don't have my ruler yet so am taking a quick trip over to the shop to have them measure the current shafts. 6-iron shaft is also on its way so will redo that club when I get it.

 

Edited July 31 by HJK60

[Lefty Mondegreen]

I like CLR to clear out that last bit of corrosion inside.  Then the acetone alcohol to clear that out ...   acteone in the hosel will soften any lingering epoxy, as well, and don't underestimate the scotchbrite on a drill bit.  Finally, roll squares of medium grit sand paper for a roughened finish in your hosel and prepped shaft end (or get the rolls of blue plumbers' sandpaper.  

 

Good luck!

[HJK60]

Thanks man. Real quick, what is CLR? And was going to use a pick to get all of the epoxy out of the head (with Acetone per your recommendation...maybe even some heat?) and use a sandpaper drill bit to roughen up/clean inside of the hosel too. The shaft tips are already prepped and ready to go. Just have to dry fit and cut the 4-iron shaft. Running over to PGA T Superstore real quick to ensure I have this playing length thing figured out. And I'd like them to measure the other shafts just to ensure consistency. I have all my tools coming in tomorrow (rulers, etc.), but I can't wait.

The 6-iron shaft is a hair bent as mentioned earlier and I have the new one coming in tomorrow (uncut and not prepped), so am going to build my 6 with the bent shaft as-is as a test run and see how we do. I figure I have to pull that shaft anyway.

 

Please advise: I still am a bit lost on what to do with these 8 and PW heads with those deep gaps. I wasn't quite understanding anyone's reply with that. The plugs you guys mentioned are just caps, they're not actually plugs. I don't like the idea of leaving dead air between the bottom of the shaft and that quarter inch/half inch gap in the lower part of the hosel. I feel like I have to fill it, but I can't find anything pertaining to "hosel weight plugs" either. The only thing I can think of is to put epoxy in there, or mix it with tungsten and forget the shaft tip weights for those clubs. How else are you going to fill that hole?

Edited July 31 by HJK60

[Ger21]

There's no reason to fill the hole, unless you need to add weight to the heads.

[HJK60]

41 minutes ago, Ger21 said:

There's no reason to fill the hole, unless you need to add weight to the heads.

Got it, but I mean, why are they even there? It's like someone drilled them in order to have a weight in there. But it's only the wedge and 8. Still overall confused about it. I don't feel that leaving it is the right way to do it?

[Ger21]

21 minutes ago, HJK60 said:

Got it, but I mean, why are they even there? It's like someone drilled them in order to have a weight in there. But it's only the wedge and 8. Still overall confused about it. I don't feel that leaving it is the right way to do it?

No idea why they are there, but if the head weights are correct, then leaving them as-is is the proper thing to do.

[HJK60]

2 minutes ago, Ger21 said:

No idea why they are there, but if the head weights are correct, then leaving them as-is is the proper thing to do.

But structurally speaking there is a pocket of air there. That can't be right.

[Ger21]

1 minute ago, HJK60 said:

But structurally speaking there is a pocket of air there. That can't be right.

Plenty of irons are designed with "pockets of air" for adding weights, and they are not always used. Nothing wrong with it.

Again, if the weight is correct, leave them as is. If you fill them just to fill them, you may be adding unnecessary weight, which is definitely the wrong thing to do.

[HJK60]

1 minute ago, Ger21 said:

Plenty of irons are designed with "pockets of air" for adding weights, and they are not always used. Nothing wrong with it.

Again, if the weight is correct, leave them as is. If you fill them just to fill them, you may be adding unnecessary weight, which is definitely the wrong thing to do.

 

I mean....you just said above that you didn't know why they were there. And why are they there in only two of my irons. Not trying to argue, just saying.

[Ger21]

You're ignoring the most important thing. The weight of the head is all that matters.

[HJK60]

Why not just say "I don't know why they're there"

edit: you already did. but we still don't know why they're there in only the 8 and pw. I guess I'm just looking for someone to chime in that has seen this before and can tell me what to do. Leaving it as it just doesn't seem right and I am particular.

Edited August 1 by HJK60

[Ger21]

I did, six posts before this one.

[HJK60]

Did u come from club champ too? Sheesh pal

[gdb99]

Have you weighed the heads? There should be a 7 gram difference between them. That will be the start of you need to do, or not do, with your 8 and PW heads.

[HJK60]

3 minutes ago, gdb99 said:

Have you weighed the heads? There should be a 7 gram difference between them. That will be the start of you need to do, or not do, with your 8 and PW heads.

Yeah there are ~7g differences between each. All weights are fine. Just wicked confused about what is up with this 8 and wedge. I might just try and find another 8 and wedge head honestly. There is no way you just leave the gaping 1/4-1/2" hole between the shaft and the final bottom of the hosel. Epoxy will drip down it regardless, or the head isn't as durable... something has to give. It doesn't make sense. If they made weights for this stuff I would get it, but they don't. So it's like it's a hole for tungsten powder / epoxy or something like that.

[gdb99]

I have seen this before. It’s not an issue. It doesn’t make the club structurally weak in any way. It’s just a place for the OEM to add weight for a different build. 

[Ger21]

9 hours ago, HJK60 said:

Did u come from club champ too? Sheesh pal

 

I answered your question honestly, and you don't like the answer. I can't help that.

[Howard_Jones]

10 hours ago, HJK60 said:

Yeah there are ~7g differences between each. All weights are fine. Just wicked confused about what is up with this 8 and wedge. I might just try and find another 8 and wedge head honestly. There is no way you just leave the gaping 1/4-1/2" hole between the shaft and the final bottom of the hosel. Epoxy will drip down it regardless, or the head isn't as durable... something has to give. It doesn't make sense. If they made weights for this stuff I would get it, but they don't. So it's like it's a hole for tungsten powder / epoxy or something like that.

Many head models has a weight port like that as standard, in case its only on a few heads in the set, its done for weight reduction reasons, maybe a case where those heads was only available as B-Wgt, or simply heads that came out of production with a weight way to high for std, and to low for B wgt.
So, hosel drilling is a weight adjustment thing, it does not weaken the hosel, and we dont need to plug the hole, since its ID is smaller than the tips OD. I have hosel drilled many hundreds of club heads, i actually made it so often i saw the need for charts vs drill bits and dept to make it faster.

So, if you are curios about how much weight thats been removed, measure full dept, minus 1.25" for insert, and you have drill dept, the drillbit used is most likely 7 mm or 9/32"

If its 15mm deep x 7 mm wide, that drill hole removed 3x 1,52 grams = 4.56 grams. if its 9/32 and only 0.5" inch deep, its 8.04 / 2 = 4.02 grams removed

Edited August 1 by Howard_Jones

[HJK60]

Thanks Howard. Appreciate the details. Interesting stuff. Edit- looks like B-wgt means bushwacker weight? Is that just another way of saying table weight, or basically how much the head weighs on just a normal scale? Like a kitchen scale? Little lost there because you say weight for standard, but too low for B-wgt... If u wouldn't mind clarifying. And yep, I wasn't worried about the tip going too far down, it was just about leaving that hole there with the tip installed.

Ger you didn't answer anything. Had plenty of "teachers" like this in the past.

Edited August 1 by HJK60

[Howard_Jones]

20 minutes ago, HJK60 said:

Thanks Howard. Appreciate the details. Interesting stuff. 

Ger you didn't answer anything.

You are questioning WHY those holes is there.
....and i gave you the answer to that, its weight adjustment to get head wgt within tolerances of where it should be.

Edited August 1 by Howard_Jones

[HJK60]

16 minutes ago, Howard_Jones said:

You are questining WHY those holes is there.....and i gave you the answer to that.

 

Yes, and I thanked you for it and added a question about what B wgt is. I was talking about user Ger.

I just had a hack botch my build so decided to do it myself and this is exactly why I am doing it myself because I will be the only one who will do it right. I may screw something up the first or second time but I will eventually get it right. And I'm trying to ask questions and do my research. Thank you for the detailed explanation. I wondered for a second if the tech at club champ was the one that drilled the two hosels but luckily I table weighed the heads before I brought them there and the weights haven't changed. So I must've just missed these two holes in the 8 and pw until I got the heads back dissembled post botched build.

Edited August 1 by HJK60

[gdb99]

B weight heads are lighter weight heads for over-length builds.

 

You would be better served without the criticisms of members here. Everyone tries to help each other in here. 

[HJK60]

10 minutes ago, gdb99 said:

B weight heads are lighter weight heads for over-length builds.

 

You would be better served without the criticisms of members here. Everyone tries to help each other in here. 

 

Ok, so because the shaft is longer / weighs more you need to lighten the head. So those heads are called b wgt heads. Cool. Also interesting stuff. Edit- actually I think I have that wrong. Feel like you'd want a heavier head in an over length build to get a proper swingweight (proper being whatever the player wants obviously, but feel that a light head on a longer/heavier shaft would give you a sw of like B0 or something).

You are not part of Ger and I's dumb back and forth. I thought he was done but seems to want to keep it going.

Edited August 1 by HJK60

[HJK60]

@Howard_Jones I have one last question: if you wanted to plug the hole - I get that you don't have to - but if you wanted to, how would you do it?

[gdb99]

3 minutes ago, HJK60 said:

 

Ok, so because the shaft is longer / weighs more you need to lighten the head. So those heads are called b wgt heads. Cool. Also interesting stuff. Edit- actually I think I have that wrong. Feel like you'd want a heavier head in an over length build to get a proper swingweight. I guess it depends on what the player wants. I'm not sure
You are not part of Ger and I's dumb back and forth. He seems to just be enjoying it. I thought he was done but seems to want to keep it going.

Lighter heads because of the longer shafts...

 

No one said you have B weight heads. I'm not sure if Titleist even have B weight heads. Mizuno has. It was said that it's possible that your particular heads were heavier than normal, and were drilled out to remove weight from the factory.

 

If you had heavier heads in a longer build, the clubs would have extremely heavy static weight, and swing weight would be very high. 

[gdb99]

Just now, HJK60 said:

@Howard_Jones I have one last question: if you wanted to plug the hole - I get that you don't have to - but if you wanted to, how would you do it?

If you put anything in there, it will increase the head weight... which will increase your swing weight...

[Howard_Jones]

16 minutes ago, HJK60 said:

@Howard_Jones I have one last question: if you wanted to plug the hole - I get that you don't have to - but if you wanted to, how would you do it?

Some 15- maybe its 20 years ago now, several of the top OEMs had 3 weight options, depending on if the build was standard (standard head wgt), overlenght (B weight minus 7 grams or 1 club head), and some even had C weight for shorter than standard builds (Plus 7 grams vs standard)

There is absolutly no need to block it, unless SW matching is done using tungsten powder down the shaft, but even then, we can still cork it. I dont understand why you like to close it, even a tip weight inserted in the shaft, will NOT drop down there..........but when we open a driver head (glued hosel - old school), we drill trough a thin metal shim, made as "hosel bottom", so when hot melt is added, we "close" that hole, with a 1 mm thick plastic shim we drop down there, and get into position before we install the shaft. Cut a shim like that from a beer can if you still feel its needed, but its not. 

USE OF EPOXY
- We only need to mix 0.5 grams per club., expect net use to be 0.35 grams if you apply it right
The shaft tip in STRIPES from the ferrule to the tip.
The hosel, ONLY on the upper 1/3 
When we are redy to insert the shaft, hold the club head UPSIDE DOWN. and insert the shaft UP into the hosel, and rotate it into position, wipe off and set to dry.

This way we avoid filling up the shaft tip ( or that hosel bore) with epoxy who dont have any jobs to do there. Tip weights can most often be reused if we do it like this, since we prevent epoxy in the ventilation hole on the tip weight.

If the plan is to make it "right" from the start, follow this link to a write up of how to blueprint specs.