eliminating scuffs

[ZGriswold83]

on drivers

I recently bought a TM driver from ebay and they guy said was "like new" well it is...except looks like he didn't bother to use the headcover (which they include for a reason!!!!!!!!!!!!) and there are 3 or 4 tiny scuffs on the club face. While it has no effect on my drives...it drives me crazy looking at the scuffs everytime I pull the club out. Any way to get rid of these???

[Boba]

how big are these scuffs? And by how big are these scuffs, I mean show us some pictures.

[ZGriswold83]

I'll have to take some when I get home tonight...I'm at work but I'd say they were probably as big as the very tip of a sharpie...if you'd make a quick point with the sharpie on a piece of paper...the remaining mark would be about the size of the scuffs...just looks like other woods have banged into the driver face a couple times.

[Boba]

Try using a medium grit sand paper, then a fine grit sand paper and finish with a club eraser.

[d0n]

If the paint hasn't been knocked off you can try to use car wax. I've used car wax to remove 100+mph idiot marks. :rolleyes: The wax also makes a barrier to help prevent future 'mishaps'.

[Boba]

If the paint hasn't been knocked off you can try to use car wax. I've used car wax to remove 100+mph idiot marks. :rolleyes: The wax also makes a barrier to help prevent future 'mishaps'.

 

Wax won't remove scuffs in metal

[ZGriswold83]

yeah...this is on the face...

[ra2bach]

don't use sandpaper. ScotchBrite makes a pad for metal polishing that comes in different grades. I use the red/maroon to refinish corroded parts from my motorcycle. green is a little softer and blue is the softest of the ones I use - barely useful for what I do except taking rust spots off chrome.

 

get it auto parts stores but be careful. once you start, you won't want to quit. its addictive...

[ZGriswold83]

so i would probably want to get the softest one available if I went this route?

[ZGriswold83]

they are really just surface scratches, nothing more....but a pain!

[d0n]

yeah...this is on the face...

 

Ah-ha, on the face... Well, if it's just a scuff sometimes you can get them out with Never Dull. If it's scratched into the metal, Never Dull won't work.

[Boba]

don't use sandpaper. ScotchBrite makes a pad for metal polishing that comes in different grades. I use the red/maroon to refinish corroded parts from my motorcycle. green is a little softer and blue is the softest of the ones I use - barely useful for what I do except taking rust spots off chrome.

 

Sand paper works just fine & unless you have Parkinson's it'll turn out pretty good using a nice straight back & straight through sanding motion across the face.

[schlebrock]

An extra fine grit sanding sponge (3M is one brand) will do the job just fine.

[ZGriswold83]

The marks are a lot smaller than I remember...they seems huge in my mind!

[bluetrane]

sandy range balls? Either method, sandpaper or 3M pad, will work fine. Just go easy on the pressure when sanding.

[ZGriswold83]

I don't know....I bought the driver in this condition...unknowingly :rolleyes:

[Shaitan]

If you practice at sand-based grass ranges you'll get those marks, my driver's covered in them and its not that big a deal (the guy you bought it off probably didn't even think about it) -- if you want to get rid of them I'd just follow what Boba said :rolleyes:

[Falang_Golfer]

I used the sand paper/scratch remover/polisher method on the face of a driver and it went from having that slightly rough metal finish to being silky smooth. Which sounds good but does it have any affect on play? Do you want the slippery surface or a little rough?

[Awsi Dooger]

An extra fine grit sanding sponge (3M is one brand) will do the job just fine.

 

That's what I use, a lightly damp 3M sanding sponge. It's very valuable prior to an eBay listing. A couple of minutes with the sanding sponge, then pick the proper angles with the digital camera, and almost guaranteed your selling price will be quite a bit higher. Not that you want to misrepresent, but I can't believe how many clubs I've purchased when it looks like the seller went out of his way to make the condition look worse than it is.

 

I like the 3M burgundy sanding sponge. You can get it at Walmart for about 3 bucks, normally sold adjacent to the automotive section. It is washable and does a fine job as long as you understand what it can do, make a noticeable cosmetic improvement but not a miracle worker that will restore to absolutely brand new. For me it's like a peace of mind that I applied some prettying, particularly after buying a used club or before selling one.

 

That burgundy version is 80 grit medium. I tried many options of the 3M sanding sponges on clubfaces and the medium seemed to work better than fine. On the back of the box it lists the usages for each type. The 80 burgundy says, "Defect Removal," so when I finally stumbled upon that one as best, it was like, "Duh. Why didn't you read the description in the first place?"