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Can someone tell me the difference??


flowrider

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Anyone? Seriously could then not name them any different??

 

Here's a list I've found so far all named 845. Which were the last 845's to be released??

 

 

Tommy Armour 845

Tommy Armour 845 C Silverback

Tommy Armour 845 EVO V-31's

Tommy Armour 845 Evo V-25

Tommy Armour 845 evo v-31 Stiff tri Gold Shafts

Tommy Armour 845 EVO-31

Tommy Armour 845 EVO-31

Tommy Armour 845 FS

Tommy Armour 845 FS Steel Shaft - Stiff

Tommy Armour 845 irons

Tommy Armour 845 O/S Irons

Tommy Armour 845 OS

Tommy Armour 845 OS Irons

Tommy Armour 845 oversize

Tommy Armour 845 Silver Scot

Tommy Armour 845 Silver Scot

Tommy Armour 845 Silver Scot

Tommy Armour 845 Silver Scots

Tommy Armour 845 Silver Scots

Tommy Armour 845 Silverbacks w/ Graphite Shafts

Tommy Armour 845 Stripes

Tommy Armour 845 Stripes Stiff

Tommy Armour 845 U - Regular Steel Shafts

Tommy Armour 845 V-25

Tommy Armour 845 V-31 Evo

Tommy Armour 845 V-31 Irons

Tommy Armour 845 Vault

Tommy Armour 845 Vault

Tommy Armour 845 Vault Irons

Tommy Armour 845 Vault Irons

Tommy Armour 845 Vault Irons

Tommy Armour 845C Silverback

Tommy Armour 845CS

Tommy Armour 845FS Silver Scot Irons

Tommy Armour 845HB

Tommy Armour 845hb

Tommy Armour 845HB

Tommy Armour 845S Oversize

Tommy Armour 845s Silver Scot

Tommy Armour 845s Silver Scot

Tommy Armour 845S Silver Scot

Tommy Armour 845s Silver Scot Irons

Tommy Armour 845s Silver Scots

Tommy Armour 845S Silver Scott

Tommy Armour 845s Siver Scot Irons

Tommy Armour 845s, 3-SW

Tommy Armour 845Ti

Tommy Armour 845u

Tommy Armour 845u Silverback

Tommy Armour 845u SilverBack

Tommy Armour 845u Silverback - Regular Steel Shafts

Tommy Armour 845u Silverback Irons

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I believe 845s Silver Scot is the original popular model introduced in late 80s/early 90s. 845fs I believe is slightly wider (horizontally) club size introduced a bit later. 845fs would be a bit more forgiving as amatures tends to miss horizontally. Then there is over size, over size plus, and titanium face versions. There is a crome version as well. My understanding is they play similar with a bit difference in forgiveness. But the most popular one is the original version with PAT.PEND. stamps with no ferrul hosel.

 

Silverback model lines were designed by different people and they are different technologies. 845c and 845m are forged. 845u is ultra game improvement version.

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Ahh... the good 'ol 845s. Those are the irons I started playing with and they bring back great memories. I had the original 845 Silver Scots which had the small heads and they had a very small sweet spot so learning to play with those was quite a task. But they instilled good ball striking skills because if I was a little off my hands really felt it. And it didn't help that they were made of a very hard cast metal but with the tumbled gray finish they were super durable and looked as good as the day I bought them. One thing I didn't like about them was that they had a bit too much offset and at first when I tried more traditional players irons I had a hard time closing the face.

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Still using the 845 Oversize here. The FS line was very similar to and might be the replacement for the Oversize. A little longer heel to toe than the originals but not a huge difference either. I've compared my OS to standard 845s before and it's maybe a half inch max longer. Great irons! Forgiving with good feedback if you don't hit it square. I had mine reshafted with Rifle 5.5's and the difference in feel was amazing. Much better than the stock steel shaft.

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I have both the original 845 Silver Scot and 845 EVO-V31s. I can tell you that the 845 Silver Scots like mentioned before were the original 845s that were very popular for many years. In fact, many people say they were one of the best irons ever made and still play them. However, they are a little more difficult to hit compared to todays irons. The V31s (and all variations) came out around 2000 or 2001. I bought mine new and still use them. They are very good irons with a nice combination of forgivability and playability. The V25s came out at the same time as the 31s and are more of a blade style club and are more difficult to hit.

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  • 4 months later...

I owned the original 845s, great feel, regretted when I sold them so I can get the 2002 Oversize Plus...I bought them because of their playability factor on golfworks.com since it had the best combination of forgiveness and price....great feel too....they are my primary set..

 

My backup set are Maxfli Revolution Black dots as well...they're great clubs too. On a lark I compared the feel between the PW of both sets.....believe it or not...please don't shoot me at what I'm going to say next...but I honestly felt that the feel from the 2002 Oversize Plus felt a little better than the Black Dots...

10.5 deg Titleist 905R with stock UST Proforce V2 Shaft (Stiff flex)
Titleist 990 (3-PW) with stock Dynamic Gold in S300
Taylormade V-Steel 5W & 3W with Grafalloy Prolaunch Red shafts (Regular Flex)
2011 Adams Tom Watson signature wedges in 52 and 56 degrees with stock steel shafts (Player's Grind)
Rife Island Series Aruba Blade Putter

 

"Loft for loft, length for length, and shaft for shaft, the ball will go the same distance when hit on the sweet spot regardless how old the iron."

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  • 1 year later...

[quote name='LBlack14' timestamp='1296228397' post='2932081']
I hate to bump an old thread, but I'm wondering if anybody can tell me exactly what the V31 irons, in particular, are made of or give me an idea of where I can find out more?

Thanks
[/quote]

I still play the Evo 31 RO (Reduced Offset). They brought out the Evo 31 that had a lot more offset as well. Also brought out the Evo 25 that was similar to the RO but was forged. The Evo 31s were cast. They are a blended set with larger cavities in the long irons with the cavity getting smaller with the shorter irons with the wedges being blades. Also had some True Temper shafts (Tri Gold)that were lighter and more flexible in the longer irons and heavier and stiffer in the short irons. The sole isn't too wide and the top line is quite thin. A lot of people seem to want a club that looks like a players club but has some forgiveness and this club fits the bill.

I have only started playing regularly again in the past couple of years but these clubs were forgiving enough for me when I was only playing 2 or 3 times a year. I haven't tried out too many other irons but I have tried the AP2 710s and they seemed similar in feel.

I got these clubs in 2001 and starting to look at new clubs. Clubs that interest me are the AP2s, MP53s and the new Taylormade Tour Preferred CBs. Think the Adams CB2 would be ideal but as I keep my clubs for years, don't think the black finish would be quite so nice in years to come

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  • 6 months later...

Bumping this thread once again...I play the original 845s, got them back in 1995 used from a guy who worked with my dad. I have been like many others in that I had bag-envy where others had all the latest-and-greatest so I went through some Titleist, Taylormades, and Calloways, only to come full circle back the the 845s. A co-worker has gotten into the game so we bought a set off ebay last week. Unfortunately we were not intune with our inner Tommy Armour zen and what showed up was very very very close to my clubs, but not the same...and the PW did not match the others in the set. The 3-9 are 845s that say "patented" on the back and the PW is an 845FS. Mine say "pat pend"

Here's my questions:

1. What's the difference between the 845s that have "pat pend" and "patented" on the back?
2. What's the difference between the 845s and the 845FS? My guess is FS is either "forged scot" or "full size"...anyone have and firm answer
3. When did ferrules start becoming standard in the 845s?

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