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Grinding a wedge!!!!


joey3108

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Step by step pictures
Some of you guys asked me before if i could show you guys a step by step process.

Be aware that operating your tool without caution may give you a severe injury.

It looks very easy but if you never tried it, you will never know how hard it is to make them perfect.

Hope this is help some of your questions.

Joe
Marking and planning!
Start slowly on the area that need grinding the most to have some room for mistakes or a slip. Slow but sure is my best advice
Keep going up slowly and feel your movement along the marking line and the corner area, apply pressure as necessary.
Keep checking on your weight on how far you are going.
Rough finish product.
Flap wheel finishing.
Check your finish product!
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Look's good Joe, niceee job. :kewlpics: That wedge will lay flat now, won't it. :aggressive: you have to be careful now so you don't hit yourself under the chin with the ball. :angry:

Miura PP-9003 PW-6 iron w/SmacWrap 780 F3

Taylormade Stealth 10.5* w/KBS TD 50 Oh, and Ventus Red "made for"

Taylormade SIM 2  21 degree w/Ventus Blue

Taylormade Stealth Rescue 22* w/Ventus Blue

Callaway X-Tour raw - 52 w/DG steel

Taylormade MYMG 3 - 56 w/KBS C-Taper Lite 

Dave Whitlam Anser 

 

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Hi Joe...another great article :kewlpics: ...I hope you don't mind but you raised a couple of questions in my mind:

 

1) When you are checking the weight, what is it that you are checking for and why?

2) With respect to the weight, for example, what would you do if it went lower than you wanted? Lead tape?

3) Do you get many requests for wedge porting and how would you go about doing that?

 

Again, great articles keep them coming...

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Joe- sure hope OSHA doesn't see these pics...man you shop is a mess..wires everywhere....but Genius survives in chaos!! Great pics and step by step Joe, thanks josh

 

 

Nice job on the grind Joe. I always think a clean and tidy shop is one that's not busy! :kewlpics: I've seen worse but it's funny the clubmaker knows exactly where everything is! :aggressive:

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Joe,

Nice work, your post is exactly what I was looking for!!! I have a couple of questions. I see that you have a Craftsman grinder but where did you get the belt attachment and how much? Is it also Craftsman? What is a flap wheel? Is it a nylon wheel?

Tks,

Chris

THe belt attachment is an after market attachment. Like the one on golfworks catalog:

 

http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_MT1001

 

Flap wheel or deburing wheel should do ok for finishing touch.

 

http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_CPMW

 

I can't find the link of flap sander, sorry!

 

Joe

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Hi Joe...another great article :kewlpics: ...I hope you don't mind but you raised a couple of questions in my mind:

 

1) When you are checking the weight, what is it that you are checking for and why?

2) With respect to the weight, for example, what would you do if it went lower than you wanted? Lead tape?

3) Do you get many requests for wedge porting and how would you go about doing that?

 

Again, great articles keep them coming...

1. You need to know how far you are going to and how much room you have before you went to far and ruin the weight from the intended swing weight you are trying to get. Some of us don't like the look of lead tape inb the back of the club.

2. Depends how far you loose the weight and what sw you are trying to get.

3. Not that many! Because porting is gonna loose around 2-3 swing weight and porting is a way to alter the CG to have a better control on your ball flight and replace the lost weight by putting lead tape on the high side on the back of the club. Ussually by changing the shaft to a 36.5" special wedge shaft are enough already. This shaft is slightly stiffer by the tip for better flight control.

 

To grind is not that hard but to grind it correctly w/ the right type of grind to match the right swing and style of play is not easy IMO.

 

JOe

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Joe- sure hope OSHA doesn't see these pics...man you shop is a mess..wires everywhere....but Genius survives in chaos!! Great pics and step by step Joe, thanks josh

 

 

Nice job on the grind Joe. I always think a clean and tidy shop is one that's not busy! :aggressive: I've seen worse but it's funny the clubmaker knows exactly where everything is! :angry:

You are making it sounds like a Chinese Restaurant. LMAO :kewlpics:

 

IF the restaurant is not busy and a little dirty, that means the food is not fresh and taste is not good.

 

YOu got that right! when you are in my shop...don't touch anything or else i'm gonna have a hard time finding it.

 

Joe

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Joe I'm sending you my X-tours... do that aggressive g :kewlpics: rind you were talking about.. :aggressive:

Anytime Johnny Boy! :angry:

I'm interested to see pictures of Joe's custom ground X-Tours!

[i][color=#0000cd][b][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Treating others the way you want to be treated is the key component to preservation of our goals.[/font][/b][/color][/i]

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Nice of you to show your craft!!

 

In regards to grinding.

What grit do you use?

Do you start with a coarse grit and finish up with a finer grit?

 

 

THANKS!!

Depending on your skill level IMO

 

The coarser the faster it grinds but the harder to control it and the easier to make mistakes that you can't go back at all.

 

Me myself can go straight in w/ an 80 grid and finish it up w/ a flap wheel 150 grid and sometime finish it up a step further w/ deburing wheel for a really nice finish ( mostly for putter work ).

 

And sometime for stainless steel or titanium head, i could go w/ a media tumbler to get a certain look of finish.

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Joe,

Is that an 80 grit 2" x 36" belt? It looks a little wider than 2".

Also how would you do a P Grind? Would you use the edge of the belt or would you use an angle grinder?

YES to both questions.

 

Joe

 

Edge of belt or Angle grinder?

Rough cut w/ a stone grinder, the edge of the belt, drum sander and finishing touch w/ block sander.

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