Grinding a wedge!!!!

[MSG Kunert-zero3Putts]

All the parts can be bought super cheap at Harbor Freight to try this. Does anybody have any pics of this job attempted on the Callaway MD3 or MD4?

[A_G Golf]

I've been interested in doing some of this stuff myself so thank you for showing us how it's done!!!

[pcedens]

Some of you guys asked me before if i could show you guys a step by step process.

 

Be aware that operating your tool without caution may give you a severe injury.

 

It looks very easy but if you never tried it, you will never know how hard it is to make them perfect.

 

Hope this is help some of your questions.

 

Joe

Marking and planning!

Start slowly on the area that need grinding the most to have some room for mistakes or a slip. Slow but sure is my best advice

Keep going up slowly and feel your movement along the marking line and the corner area, apply pressure as necessary.

Keep checking on your weight on how far you are going.

Rough finish product.

Flap wheel finishing.

Check your finish product!

 

Love grinding wedges!

[BB28403]

Too bad no more sears! Grinder looks cool

[tyorke1]

what about rust prevention, anything we can do, I have grinded lots but after a bit they can look bad

[Pittknife]

> @tyorke1 said:

> what about rust prevention, anything we can do, I have grinded lots but after a bit they can look bad

 

depends if its carbon or cast stainless, most wedges vokeys etc are cast stainless, they shouldn't oxidize, use a finer grit belt like 600-800 AO. If it's carbon not much can be done except have some one chrome/pvd/ or another coating on it. You can high buff to mirror which will protect it some but as soon as you scratch it and moisture sets it will rust again.

[mogc60]

I thought I would post these...I was just reading through this thread and I like higher bounced wedges so other than a few little tweaks here and there never had to do a ton of sole grinding on my wedges. I do however grind the lead edge on almost ever set of irons I’ve owned. I like a blunted lead edge and I’m very picky about the lead edge being very square with no roundness or onset. This is my current set of Cobra MB/CB satins.

 

[HitaHouse]

> @mogc60 said:

> I thought I would post these...I was just reading through this thread and I like higher bounced wedges so other than a few little tweaks here and there never had to do a ton of sole grinding on my wedges. I do however grind the lead edge on almost ever set of irons I’ve owned. I like a blunted lead edge and I’m very picky about the lead edge being very square with no roundness or onset. This is my current set of Cobra MB/CB satins.

Nice! that is really delicate and precise work. I like a straighter, more blunt leading edge too. What is your process? I grind a little, then quickly go to a belt sander and sand paper.

 

 

[mogc60]

> @HitaHouse said:

> > @mogc60 said:

> > I thought I would post these...I was just reading through this thread and I like higher bounced wedges so other than a few little tweaks here and there never had to do a ton of sole grinding on my wedges. I do however grind the lead edge on almost ever set of irons I’ve owned. I like a blunted lead edge and I’m very picky about the lead edge being very square with no roundness or onset. This is my current set of Cobra MB/CB satins.

> Nice! that is really delicate and precise work. I like a straighter, more blunt leading edge too. What is your process? I grind a little, then quickly go to a belt sander and sand paper.

>

>

I mark my line across the bottom of the face where I want the new edge to be. I use a bench grinder and just lightly grind with the sole down and trying to move the lead edge up so I’m grinding the bottom of the face. Then I lean the top of the head toward me just a bit and start to blend it into a nice fairly round blunt edge. I finish it with sanding pads. The bigger firm ones. Start with 60 grit then move to 120 and finish with 220/320. I’ve done it for 15 years or so. I used to use a sanding belt but I’ve gotten good enough on the grinder with it that there isn’t a lot of sanding left to do after. Just getting the grind smoothed out a bit.

Here is my progression...no I’m not grinding in these pics but give you an idea of the angles I’m trying to explain. And the pads I use.

 

 

 

[Hack Daddy]

These were done with a Harbor freight sanding drum attachment on a drill, finished with a harbor freight sanding drum on a dremel. I encourage everyone to grind a wedge before they die.

 

 

[Hack Daddy]

Little better pic:

 

 

[dmecca2]

Looking to self grind for the first time soon. Plan is to bend my 52 degree strong and bend my 58 degree weak, while adding a 56 in between to fill the gap. Will need to grind to fix the bounce after bending. Thanks for the thread an I definitely feel more prepared now!

[Jul89]

Can you grind the leading edge in a way that makes it have more bounce? I always struggle with digging into the ground when chipping with my wedges.

[mogc60]

> @Jul89 said:

> Can you grind the leading edge in a way that makes it have more bounce? I always struggle with digging into the ground when chipping with my wedges.

 

You can blunt the lead edge and raise it slightly basically creating forward “bounce”

and making it less likely to dig.

[Jul89]

Can the weight be added back into the clubhead after blunting the leading edge?

> @mogc60 said:

> > @Jul89 said:

> > Can you grind the leading edge in a way that makes it have more bounce? I always struggle with digging into the ground when chipping with my wedges.

>

> You can blunt the lead edge and raise it slightly basically creating forward “bounce”

> and making it less likely to dig.

 

 

[bw5000]

Beautiful work!

[wilsonn24]

Joe,

Great article, I just picked up some old wedges to grind on to give it a shot! So we will see how it turns out.

[Bgreene18]

Really nice work there!

[Jul89]

I picked up these: https://wishongolf.com/designs/wedges/micro-groove-hm/

 

Awesome grind

[Golfrnut]

Winter time in the northern hemisphere so time to bring this thread back from the dead.

 

I guess I wasn’t spending enough money on golf stuff so bought some blanks with the black Friday discount.

 

My first time starting with an actual blank and working it all the way down. Couple hours later, got my first one down to a rough finish (turns out my grinder isn’t strong enough to run a polishing belt so will have to pick up a buffing wheel to get all the blending marks worked out. Thinned the top line, straightened the heel-toe line, sharpened the top edge, added a bit of trailing edge relief and a smidge more front-back camber, blunted the leading edge a smidge, etc etc. Good start to build up a test club and give it a go. It’s my 52* so nothing crazy going on grind wise. 
 

@Howard_Jones @joey3108  Do you guys work the crotches from the hosel to the top line by hand often?  That was by far the most painful part. Between taking meat off that area and trying to blend the sanding marks, I think that was 50% of the time spent on it.  Got two light scuffs on the face from the sanding belt to show for it. 😡  Might take the slow route by hand from now on. 
 

 

Edited December 4, 2020 by Golfrnut

[cxx]

Wasn't this thread a sticky at the top of the WRX forum?  Seems like the original pictures are missing. Must be the software transition. Sure hate to loose that.

[Golfrnut]

32 minutes ago, cxx said:

Wasn't this thread a sticky at the top of the WRX forum?  Seems like the original pictures are missing. Must be the software transition. Sure hate to loose that.

 

 

yep and yep...98% of the pictures are all gone.  Super unfortunate.

 

[Golfrnut]

A few more pics of new and shiny  after a few minutes on a buffing wheel. Need to figure out how to treat everything but the face so it won’t all rust up. 
 

[Howard_Jones]

On 12/4/2020 at 5:59 AM, Golfrnut said:

Winter time in the northern hemisphere so time to bring this thread back from the dead.

 

I guess I wasn’t spending enough money on golf stuff so bought some blanks with the black Friday discount.

 

My first time starting with an actual blank and working it all the way down. Couple hours later, got my first one down to a rough finish (turns out my grinder isn’t strong enough to run a polishing belt so will have to pick up a buffing wheel to get all the blending marks worked out. Thinned the top line, straightened the heel-toe line, sharpened the top edge, added a bit of trailing edge relief and a smidge more front-back camber, blunted the leading edge a smidge, etc etc. Good start to build up a test club and give it a go. It’s my 52* so nothing crazy going on grind wise. 
 

@Howard_Jones @joey3108  Do you guys work the crotches from the hosel to the top line by hand often?  That was by far the most painful part. Between taking meat off that area and trying to blend the sanding marks, I think that was 50% of the time spent on it.  Got two light scuffs on the face from the sanding belt to show for it. 😡  Might take the slow route by hand from now on. 
 

 

No, im using the 8 inch belt grinder to "everything", i was a fool that did not make any instructional videos for this, its not hard at all. We "rotate" the hosel, but we cant rotate it 360* when we get down to the hardest part, but we keep up making "the back side" of the heel equal all the way from hosel to and down (full cylinder shape), then we turn it and make the neck between hosel and head. ive used a old shaft tip to have a "axle" to rotate the head around so one hand holds the shaft tip, the other the toe of the head.


 

[Howard_Jones]

6 hours ago, Golfrnut said:

A few more pics of new and shiny  after a few minutes on a buffing wheel. Need to figure out how to treat everything but the face so it won’t all rust up. 
 

 

I suggest 320 grid, then black oxide, then add some silicone oil

 

[Golfrnut]

4 hours ago, Howard_Jones said:

No, im using the 8 inch belt grinder to "everything", i was a fool that did not make any instructional videos for this, its not hard at all. We "rotate" the hosel, but we cant rotate it 360* when we get down to the hardest part, but we keep up making "the back side" of the heel equal all the way from hosel to and down (full cylinder shape), then we turn it and make the neck between hosel and head. ive used a old shaft tip to have a "axle" to rotate the head around so one hand holds the shaft tip, the other the toe of the head.


 

 

I finally got smart enough to figure outI could use the underside of the belt where it has nothing behind it to allow it to work down into the area between the face/hosel and the saddle area between the hosel and topline. Much easier once I stopped making it harder on myself. Think I have a bit too much bounce at the moment, but testing will prove me right/wrong. Easier to remove than try to add back. 

[Howard_Jones]

22 minutes ago, Golfrnut said:

 

I finally got smart enough to figure outI could use the underside of the belt where it has nothing behind it to allow it to work down into the area between the face/hosel and the saddle area between the hosel and topline. Much easier once I stopped making it harder on myself. Think I have a bit too much bounce at the moment, but testing will prove me right/wrong. Easier to remove than try to add back. 

In case you missed this tread who aint totally destroed by WRX forum updates, teak a peak in, its way more info about grinding than you will find where we are now.
 

 

[Golfrnut]

@Howard_Jones

 

What's your philosophy on whether you decide to roll the trailing edge and create a bigger front to back camber or whether you make a cut in the back to create trailing edge relief and shorten up the front/back width? 

 

Trying to decide on how to approach my 58* wedge.  I only carry two (52/58), so that would see bunker use but need something that also gets me low to the ground.  Not the best scenario, but it's where I'm at.  Not sure exactly how I want to approach it.  I like the way the newer Taylormade TW is on the 60 they produced with his grind, just not sure if I want to keep as much surface area on the sole or not.  The bunkers here can also pack when wet, which is why I'm dumping the shape of the original PM grind wedge I've been using.  I don't play steep enough to make use of that grind the way it's intended.  Fantastic if I played fluffy sand all the time, but that isn't the case.

[Howard_Jones]

12 hours ago, Golfrnut said:

@Howard_Jones

 

What's your philosophy on whether you decide to roll the trailing edge and create a bigger front to back camber or whether you make a cut in the back to create trailing edge relief and shorten up the front/back width? 

 

Trying to decide on how to approach my 58* wedge.  I only carry two (52/58), so that would see bunker use but need something that also gets me low to the ground.  Not the best scenario, but it's where I'm at.  Not sure exactly how I want to approach it.  I like the way the newer Taylormade TW is on the 60 they produced with his grind, just not sure if I want to keep as much surface area on the sole or not.  The bunkers here can also pack when wet, which is why I'm dumping the shape of the original PM grind wedge I've been using.  I don't play steep enough to make use of that grind the way it's intended.  Fantastic if I played fluffy sand all the time, but that isn't the case.

Wow....thats a lot at once....
Static bounce is IMO only a factor we adjust vs AOA, so steep = high and shallow = low
Effective bounce is really the same, its AOA again.
Sole area is due to the surface we play on
Relief is depending on how we want to approach the ball on different surfaces...

I have only 2 wedges myself (i count the PW as a iron)
Both have 17 Bounce, the GW with a narrow sole and full shot grind who lowers effective bounce and adjust itself to the surface its being played on, but it also have a chip shot grind (leading edge). My Sand/Lob is also 17 static, but with a short sole and PM grind.

The PM grind can be made in lots of varieties depending on use, and even with excessive trailing edge grinding, it can still make it in sand. 

First the GW im playing, i simply love that sole shape for that club. (original to the right)
It starts from a 50/14* made to 53/17* 



PM grind with different bounce and sole wide.
The one i play is close to the one in the back with a large trailing edge grind
On my on ive started from 56/14* to get 59/17*
The one on the photo in the back is 58/10*, the one in the middle is the same, but with a wider sole area, the one in front it 60/12* who started from 58/10*
Non of this wedges is made from blanks but is modified standard models.

Edited December 8, 2020 by Howard_Jones

[Golfrnut]

Thanks @Howard_Jones

 

And yeah, I know it's a lot.  haha  I've been thinking about different ways of going about it over the last few days.  The nice thing about playing a two wedge set, I have both a 56 and a 60 I can bend so even though I had to buy a set of three wedges, I have two blanks to make my lob wedge from.  Would be nice if I had 20 blanks and could try 20 different grinds but that won't happen unless I win the lottery, then all bets are off.

 

Been eyeballing pictures of wedges for hours.  Fortunately, the 'other site' still has pictures of all the different Scratch grinds that were produced for off the rack purchases.  Not the best angles of them, but a good source for ideas.  I think I might choose to roll the trailing edge as opposed to making that hard cut just so I have progressive bounce options to play from depending on how far it's opened.  Static bounce more towards the center front to back, then rolling the trailing edge with some aggressive camber as I want it to sit really low on flop shots.  Part of that is still deciding on mid or low static bounce, and then using or not using a leading edge grind.  I'm almost thinking a more of a tri-sole design of using a preworn leading edge, a mid bounce center and high camber trailing edge relief.  Similar to the club on the left in this picture.