MX-23 or MX-25

[schmidlack]

One thing I always hated about the MX-23's was the visibility of the cavity flange from the top on the longer irons. Does the MX-25 still have that flange thing visible on the 4-iron?

 

My set begins with a 5 iron, but I can see the flange slightly so obviously the 4 would be similar.

[dncm2002]

I think a lot has to do with your own strenghts and weaknesses and most importantly golf goals, not just handicap. I only play on weekends with no practice. My handicap leveled out at a 12 and was that for a couple of years. I always played player cavity backs since I thought I struck irons pretty well, love to work the ball and they look cool :drinks: . After switching to Tourstage TS-202's two years ago I have dropped myself to an 8. They are just so forgiving that they make up for my inconsitencies due to no practice, yet I still have forged feel. If my goal was to see how low I could take my handicap and was going to commit the time to allow it to happen, I would want a players cb at an 8. Since, I have only limited time to golf, I think it is great that I can maintain an 8 with forgiving irons.

 

Great points!

[jjl]

I just checked out the MX-25's in person for the first time...i read somewhere that the channel-back doo-hickey thing stuck on the backs of the 3-5 iron is not visible -not true, it's still very visible. I always found that thing distracting on the MX line, and it confirmed to me that for now, i'm sticking with my LT2's.

[mr_divots]

schmidlack:

 

Thanks! You inspired me to "alter" my Bridgestone GC Mids tonight! One down, seven to go! :drinks:

 

 

 

 

[divot tool]

What did you use to clean the paint off with? Did you have to be real careful not to damage the clubs?

 

Zero risk of damage. I just used a common paint remover and Testors hobby paint and cleaned up excess with acetone. Paint remover does not do anything to metal.

 

 

what were the steps you took to do this, they look great and if I get a set I want to do this aswell

 

Apply any paint remover to the area you want to remove. I used a toothpick to dab it into the smallish area. Wait about 20 mins and rinse it off with water. Sometimes it just washes off in one piece, sometimes I had to use a scrub brush a few times to get it all off. Then I used another toothpick to dab the paint into the letters and let it pretty much dry for an hour or two. Of course you can't get the paint exactly into the letters, but just make sure you add enough to fill them. Then take a clean fine mesh cloth and soak a small area with Acetone and rub the new paint until the excess is gone and only the letters have paint. It's quite easy and if you screw up, just start over again.

 

Thanks for the great idea and detail info to accomplish it. I am getting some MX-25s Saturday and will definetly do what you have done. I realize Mizuno want to emphasize COG, but they look much better the way you did yours.

 

Did you play today like you had hoped? How were the irons?

 

 

Gentlemen,

 

Could you please tell me how one could possibly remove the black semi-circle on the back of the MX-25 irons, you know (the spot where it says HEMI COG). I tried paint thinner, but no cigar. I feel it takes away from the club. Your help would be greatly appreciated, as I too prefer a simple look.

[ghodges]

One thing I always hated about the MX-23's was the visibility of the cavity flange from the top on the longer irons. Does the MX-25 still have that flange thing visible on the 4-iron?

 

It's much worse on the 25's...I prefer the 20's because the 23's added more offset and are "beefier". The 25's have even more offset and an even thicker topline...and if seeing the cavity bothers you don't get the 25's...it's now visible in the 5-iron and a tad in 6-iron as well. For many, seeing the cavity is not a problem, but if it bothers you, the 25's are a no go. 23's and 25's are great irons imo, but they have gotten progressively more GI features which don't work for my eye. For others they are great!!!