Matrix M3 vs M2

ARSM1932 · May 12, 2012

I would like to hear the views of anyone who has played the new Matrix M3 shafts on how they compare to the previous Matrix M2 shafts with regard to launch, spin and feel, I am especially interested in the 8M3 and the HM3 105 as i am looking for low launch, low spin shafts with very tight dispersion for both my 3 wood and hybrid, mainly to for used off the tee.

8M3 vs 8M2 / F7M2

Having played loads of different shafts in various fairway woods during the past few years including both the 8M2 and the F7M2 LTD but unlike their hybrid equivalent

(HM2 LT Black) I really wasn't all that impressed by either shaft as I just didn't find them to be really low launch, low spin compared to other shafts such as the Project X-8A4 (which I currently play in my Tour Edge Exotics CB2 13 degree fairway wood) and the Fujikura Rombax 8Z08.

HM3 105 vs HM2 LT Black

Having played quite a few different hybrid shafts in various hybrids during the past couple of years since I finally took my 2 iron out of the bag but I am yet to find a shaft that can equal the Matrix HM2 LT Black X (which I currently play in my Ping i20 17 degree hybrid) and I have found it to it be awesome. It is a very stable, low launch, very low spin shaft and combined with its laser like accuracy, very tight dispersion and disinclination to go left makes it without doubt the best hybrid shaft that I have ever played.

Awalkspoiled · May 12, 2012

For the .335 shafts the biggest difference is feel - the M2 shafts (not the 8M2 which is a different construction, but the zylon F6M2, F7M2 etc...) are smoother with much more sense of the shaft loading and releasing. the M3 shafts feel almost invisible - like there's a direct connection between your hands and the clubhead. it can be a little startling at first, and then you'll either like it or you wont. they spin less, and launch lower, and play stouter than the M2 line, but it's fairly close. 8M3 doesn't spin AT ALL - lowest spin shaft i've ever hit - and it's a rare player who can actualy get it to spin ENOUGH. I consider it a specialty shaft for FWs and a tour-level swing. 6M3 and 7M3 are beastly enough for most humans. 8M3 would be a geat shaft for hitting stingers Tiger-style.

HM2 LT to the HM3 is an incremental shift in performance although the design is quite different, and if the M2 is working i wouldn't change just to change. I have the HM3 95 in an i15 20°, and while it's VERY accurate I don't get the float I'd like to see from that club, so I'd say it's really playing about half a flex too stout for me. Would be a cannon of course in a 17 in the right flex, and if you got adequate height it might well bump your 3w right out of the bag. My 17°/Altus has replaced my 14.5 3w...

Clockwork · May 23, 2012

[quote name='Awalkspoiled' timestamp='1336821962' post='4900196']
For the .335 shafts the biggest difference is feel - the M2 shafts (not the 8M2 which is a different construction, but the zylon F6M2, F7M2 etc...) are smoother with much more sense of the shaft loading and releasing. the M3 shafts feel almost invisible - like there's a direct connection between your hands and the clubhead. it can be a little startling at first, and then you'll either like it or you wont. they spin less, and launch lower, and play stouter than the M2 line, but it's fairly close. 8M3 doesn't spin AT ALL - lowest spin shaft i've ever hit - and it's a rare player who can actualy get it to spin ENOUGH. I consider it a specialty shaft for FWs and a tour-level swing. 6M3 and 7M3 are beastly enough for most humans. 8M3 would be a geat shaft for hitting stingers Tiger-style.

HM2 LT to the HM3 is an incremental shift in performance although the design is quite different, and if the M2 is working i wouldn't change just to change. I have the HM3 95 in an i15 20°, and while it's VERY accurate I don't get the float I'd like to see from that club, so I'd say it's really playing about half a flex too stout for me. Would be a cannon of course in a 17 in the right flex, and if you got adequate height it might well bump your 3w right out of the bag. My 17°/Altus has replaced my 14.5 3w...
[/quote]

Can you go into a little more detail with this?? I want to put new shafts in my 910 D3 and 910 F2. Both are stock ahina in stiff flex. I want something where I feel the club head a little more, weaker flex? I play x100s in my irons (love them) so weaker doesn't make sense to me....

So I have been looking at a F6M2 x-flex in the driver and F7M2 x-flex in the 15* 3W. Looking to gain both stability and accuracy. I feel like when swing my driver there is no club head until it comes in contact with the ball. The fairway wood is not as bad, but I have learned to time it with the swing of my 2 iron to get a good shot.

The shots in my fairway and driver are both high and inconsistent right to left, there is little workability compared to my 680 irons.

Am I heading in the wrong direction?

Clockwork · May 23, 2012

[quote name='Awalkspoiled' timestamp='1336821962' post='4900196']
For the .335 shafts the biggest difference is feel - the M2 shafts (not the 8M2 which is a different construction, but the zylon F6M2, F7M2 etc...) are smoother with much more sense of the shaft loading and releasing. the M3 shafts feel almost invisible - like there's a direct connection between your hands and the clubhead. it can be a little startling at first, and then you'll either like it or you wont. they spin less, and launch lower, and play stouter than the M2 line, but it's fairly close. 8M3 doesn't spin AT ALL - lowest spin shaft i've ever hit - and it's a rare player who can actualy get it to spin ENOUGH. I consider it a specialty shaft for FWs and a tour-level swing. 6M3 and 7M3 are beastly enough for most humans. 8M3 would be a geat shaft for hitting stingers Tiger-style.

HM2 LT to the HM3 is an incremental shift in performance although the design is quite different, and if the M2 is working i wouldn't change just to change. I have the HM3 95 in an i15 20°, and while it's VERY accurate I don't get the float I'd like to see from that club, so I'd say it's really playing about half a flex too stout for me. Would be a cannon of course in a 17 in the right flex, and if you got adequate height it might well bump your 3w right out of the bag. My 17°/Altus has replaced my 14.5 3w...
[/quote]

SIDE NOTE: when I hit my 2 iron with the x100 it feels like a spring, when I strike the ball. I don't get this feeling with my 3 iron or woods. But it IS a feeling that I would like to carry through the rest of my set, especially the woods.

Awalkspoiled · May 23, 2012

[quote name='Clockwork' timestamp='1337808593' post='4966542']
[quote name='Awalkspoiled' timestamp='1336821962' post='4900196']
For the .335 shafts the biggest difference is feel - the M2 shafts (not the 8M2 which is a different construction, but the zylon F6M2, F7M2 etc...) are smoother with much more sense of the shaft loading and releasing. the M3 shafts feel almost invisible - like there's a direct connection between your hands and the clubhead. it can be a little startling at first, and then you'll either like it or you wont. they spin less, and launch lower, and play stouter than the M2 line, but it's fairly close. 8M3 doesn't spin AT ALL - lowest spin shaft i've ever hit - and it's a rare player who can actualy get it to spin ENOUGH. I consider it a specialty shaft for FWs and a tour-level swing. 6M3 and 7M3 are beastly enough for most humans. 8M3 would be a geat shaft for hitting stingers Tiger-style.

HM2 LT to the HM3 is an incremental shift in performance although the design is quite different, and if the M2 is working i wouldn't change just to change. I have the HM3 95 in an i15 20°, and while it's VERY accurate I don't get the float I'd like to see from that club, so I'd say it's really playing about half a flex too stout for me. Would be a cannon of course in a 17 in the right flex, and if you got adequate height it might well bump your 3w right out of the bag. My 17°/Altus has replaced my 14.5 3w...
[/quote]

SIDE NOTE: when I hit my 2 iron with the x100 it feels like a spring, when I strike the ball. I don't get this feeling with my 3 iron or woods. But it IS a feeling that I would like to carry through the rest of my set, especially the woods.
[/quote]

Lots to think about there and in the previous post, but I'm not sure I really have enough info. I'm especially puzzled that 2i and 3i don't work about the same. The M2 shafts moight work really well, since like X100 they are smooth, relatively tip-stout and soft under the hands. The Whiteboard might work well also. Assuming your tempo isn't ultra-quick the X-flex M2 shafts tend to work for the guy who hits a smooth 9i from 150 and a smooth 5i from 200, and carries his driver 260 or better. If you're in that class, or a step down but are very quick and aggressive, I bet they'd work really well. No comparison in control with the stock stiff ahina, which is likely too soft for you if those are typical yardages.....

Clockwork · May 24, 2012

[/quote]

Lots to think about there and in the previous post, but I'm not sure I really have enough info. I'm especially puzzled that 2i and 3i don't work about the same. The M2 shafts moight work really well, since like X100 they are smooth, relatively tip-stout and soft under the hands. The Whiteboard might work well also. Assuming your tempo isn't ultra-quick the X-flex M2 shafts tend to work for the guy who hits a smooth 9i from 150 and a smooth 5i from 200, and carries his driver 260 or better. If you're in that class, or a step down but are very quick and aggressive, I bet they'd work really well. No comparison in control with the stock stiff ahina, which is likely too soft for you if those are typical yardages.....
[/quote]

The 2 iron and 3 iron perform the same, just don't feel the same. That difference in feel could just be that 3-pw has x-100 Sensicore and 2i is straight x-100. My tempo has slowed in the last couple years as pros that I have worked with have slowed it down. My 5i carries 190 and 9i carries 145.

Is there difference between the F7M2 and the 8M2 other than weight?

Looking at the F6M2/F7M2 or F7M2/8M2 combos for the driver and fairway woods. There is the weight difference, 60g in the driver vs 70 g in the driver. But now[url="http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/user/3924-awalkspoiled/"] Awalkspoiled[/url] got me wondering if there will be a difference due to construction. The M3s are all the same in construction, and only the weight changes? Maybe over thinking this?

Awalkspoiled · May 24, 2012

8M2 is a significantly stouter feel than the other two. My guesstimate would be F6M2 Strong in that driver, and F7M2 Strong tipped in the 3w. If the cost starts getting intimidating, consider the slightly less expensive RUL70 in the 3w, also in Strong - really an excellent 3w shaft. If your tempo is quicker in 3w than driver, then the RUL80 would be worth a look, but it's VERY low launch/spin.If your tempo is slower with 3w, then maybe even an RUL70 in tipped stiff rather than Strong.

X100 Sensicore measures somewhat softer than non -sensicore, so that may be the issue with the irons (apart from the vibration-absorptin of the insert of course), but just for grins measure from hosel to first step on both those clubs - there may be something else going on....

Clockwork · May 24, 2012

[quote name='Awalkspoiled' timestamp='1337866496' post='4969838']
8M2 is a significantly stouter feel than the other two. My guesstimate would be F6M2 Strong in that driver, and F7M2 Strong tipped in the 3w. If the cost starts getting intimidating, consider the slightly less expensive RUL70 in the 3w, also in Strong - really an excellent 3w shaft. If your tempo is quicker in 3w than driver, then the RUL80 would be worth a look, but it's VERY low launch/spin.If your tempo is slower with 3w, then maybe even an RUL70 in tipped stiff rather than Strong.

X100 Sensicore measures somewhat softer than non -sensicore, so that may be the issue with the irons (apart from the vibration-absorptin of the insert of course), but just for grins measure from hosel to first step on both those clubs - there may be something else going on....
[/quote]

Strong is between Stiff and X-Stiff, no? Do you have any experience with KBS Tour in X-Stiff? How will that mate up?

Awalkspoiled · May 24, 2012

Yes, Strong is between S and X.

As far as KBS Tour, it's a terrific shaft but the balance is very different from DG, so many players have a break-in period as they get used to the different feedback pattern. For some, this is very quick and intuitive, for others it just never really comes together. One thing about KB Tour is that you'll need to add considerable weight to the head if you to get the same swingweight at the same length. The X flex is an honest X and much favored on Tour by stronger swingers.

mliedtke02 · May 25, 2012

I have a titleist 910 13.5 * fd 3 wood shafted w a matrix 8m2 stiffand it's the most reliable 3 wood I've hit. A straight bomber and consistent .

Clockwork · May 25, 2012

[quote name='mliedtke02' timestamp='1337933361' post='4975192']
I have a titleist 910 13.5 * fd 3 wood shafted w a matrix 8m2 stiffand it's the most reliable 3 wood I've hit. A straight bomber and consistent .
[/quote]

What defines a bomber? I have a 910F2 15* with the stock Ahina shaft and I get 250 yds carry. Looking for more accuracy not distance.
What should I expect to gain with the 8M2 shaft?
Do you have it in Stiff or X-Stiff?

mliedtke02 · May 25, 2012

Lets just say that i dont even remember the last time that i hit a ball off the tee or fairway that was lost, or not in the fairway or right by it.... Its an 86 gram shaft in the 8m2. I have it in stiff and have an X-stiff Tour ad BB in my driver. Stiff is definitely enough for me in it. I use it for accuracy not distance as its easily 250 carry if not more.