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Hitting blades considerably shorter


TheCityGame

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So, I've hit Mizuno MX-300's for a couple years now. I actually consider irons the strength of my game, with tee shots, and chipping the places where I tend to lose strokes. I'm about a 6 index, usually in the 77-81 range.

 

Anyway. . .I borrowed a set of blades -- Cleveland CG1's -- and I'm hitting them at least 1.5 clubs shorter than my Mizunos.

 

For starters, they're about 2º weaker, but the CG 6 iron should still be stronger than the Mizuno 7 iron (33º vs. 35º, I think) and it's not.

 

Is there anything else that might make these clubs travel a little shorter for me? Or is it just that maybe I'm not catching them sweet? The CG's are actually a quarter inch longer, I think. Is it a swing-weight issue?

 

To sum up: it seems like my distance with the blade's 6 iron should be between the 6 & 7 irons from the Mizunos, but really it seems a little bit shorter than the Mizuno 7 iron. Is there some extra "springiness" to the Mizuno's that I'm not getting with the blade?

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mis-hits even slight mis-hits with blades will go considerably shorter i used to play callaway proto blades and when i was on they went as far or farther than any other iron besides TI-faced stuff I've played but anything off the mark and I could lose up to 2 clubs in distance so If you feel like your not quite catching them that could be it. But if they feel solid or you know your hitting hem on the mark it could be shafts either too soft or too stiff there are really a # of reasons for something like this.. just a few to consider

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Solid contact is the #1 suspect. Possibly the overall weight or swingweight or length itself might be messing up your tempo and costing you clubhead speed. That's the #2 suspect.

And there's no #3 suspect for the kind of differences you're talking about. Springy faces and so forth on irons can only help a teeny bit.

However, there's one important factor that's unknown. What are the actual lofts of the MX-300's and CG-1's? Have they been measured or are you going off a spec sheet on manufacturer web pages?

It's easy for one set to be off by a couple degrees in one direction and/or the other set off by a couple in the opposite direction. Loft is the predominant factor in iron distance, if that's wrong the distance will be wrong.

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+1 on Ceres. Borrowed a set once that were just like mine. 3,6, and 8 irons were way shorter than mine. Told the guy in the shop. Checked. 3 was almost a 4,6 was a 7 and 8 was off too. ( not that I'm so great, but they WERE off) Also, as OP said, if you're 'off' a bit with blades you will loose distance.

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I'm definitely just going by the specs.

So, it could be mis-labeled lofts. I hadn't really thought about that.

But, I'm not ruling out contact issues, either. I hit my irons pretty well, but I'm no pro, either. I did borrow the set to try to work on making better contact (the focus of my off-season).

Thanks.

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RBZ Stage 2 4W 17º
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Mizuno JPX-900 Forged 4I-GW
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Which shafts are in each set?
Flex in each set?
Length of equivalent irons?

 

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Shafts are stock, which I think is Dynalite Gold XP in the mizzies, and True Temper Dynamic Gold in the CGs. Don't know about flex, but the shafts feel similar in stiffness to me.

The CGs are a hair longer. . .quarter inch, maybe, for equivalent iron.

The pro that gave them to me said he replaced them with some MP-63's because he didn't feel like he got enough distance from them. I'm fine with that as long as I know my distances, and don't have a gap. I'll get to know them better as the off-season goes along.

Ping G400 LST 10º XTORSION Copper 60
RBZ Stage 2 4W 17º
Strong torso
Cobra f6 Hybrid
Mizuno JPX-900 Forged 4I-GW
Vokey 54º/14º F-grind
Vokey 60º/04º. "The Scalpel"
Odyssey Stroke Lab Black Ten
Oncore Elixir Neon Green

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[quote name='TheCityGame' timestamp='1350393662' post='5800947']
So, I've hit Mizuno MX-300's for a couple years now. I actually consider irons the strength of my game, with tee shots, and chipping the places where I tend to lose strokes. I'm about a 6 index, usually in the 77-81 range.

Anyway. . .I borrowed a set of blades -- Cleveland CG1's -- and I'm hitting them at least 1.5 clubs shorter than my Mizunos.

For starters, they're about 2º weaker, but the CG 6 iron should still be stronger than the Mizuno 7 iron (33º vs. 35º, I think) and it's not.

Is there anything else that might make these clubs travel a little shorter for me? Or is it just that maybe I'm not catching them sweet? The CG's are actually a quarter inch longer, I think. Is it a swing-weight issue?

To sum up: it seems like my distance with the blade's 6 iron should be between the 6 & 7 irons from the Mizunos, but really it seems a little bit shorter than the Mizuno 7 iron. Is there some extra "springiness" to the Mizuno's that I'm not getting with the blade?
[/quote]

If lofts and or lies are different from your standard, a loss of yardage can result. Also, swing weight, offset and bounce differences can contribute as well, not to mention shaft profiles.

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[quote name='TheCityGame' timestamp='1350405060' post='5801985']
Shafts are stock, which I think is Dynalite Gold XP in the mizzies, and True Temper Dynamic Gold in the CGs.
[/quote]

Seems to me that might have something to do with it, as well as the potential weaker loft or contact issues...

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go try hitting ping eye 2's, they'll be shorter too and they're far from being a blade

since when are irons all about hitting the ball farther? maybe hitting them shorter and leaving you less gaps towards the short yardage clubs is not a bad thing

if you can get over the ego hit of needing a 7 iron when your friends are pulling 8-9 iron, you'll be fine

are the blades so short that you're unable to get around the course?

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Blades are more for the precision game. That said, they can still be hit plenty far if you catch them flush. I had a set of Mp 67's (blades) before moving to some Mx-300's - picked up a full club with the latter. Both sets had the same shafts. I wasn't hitting the blades poorly, but the Mx-300's had much more going for them distance-wise.

It is notable also that I played worse golf with the GI heads than with the blades. lol

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[quote name='TheCityGame' timestamp='1350405060' post='5801985']
Shafts are stock, which I think is Dynalite Gold XP in the mizzies, and True Temper Dynamic Gold in the CGs. Don't know about flex, but the shafts feel similar in stiffness to me.

The CGs are a hair longer. . .quarter inch, maybe, for equivalent iron.

The pro that gave them to me said he replaced them with some MP-63's because he didn't feel like he got enough distance from them. I'm fine with that as long as I know my distances, and don't have a gap. I'll get to know them better as the off-season goes along.
[/quote]

Big weight difference between those shafts, which can influence swing weight.

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Unless hit on the sweet spot, blades will be shorter than GI irons....It may feel good but may not be right on the button.

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if hit properly i've always hit blades longer then GI's. More penetrating trajectory and less spin. But mishit them and you suffer

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What is your trajectory with the Clevelands as compared to the Mizunos? Typically you would be hitting the blades a little lower, especially with the differences in shafts, so that may be affecting your distances. What kind of clubhead speed do you have?

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Go hit a set of MP68's or MP69's then let us know the difference in distance and accuracy vs. your current Mizzy Gamers.

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Blades are finicky if not fitted properly.....but once setup properly they are awesome. I went from titleist blades to miura blades this year and it took a good 10 rounds to get my distances back to normal and now i hit them even further than i did the titleists

hit is with so much authority
that when you find it
and it sees you, it is trembling.

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Thanks for all the responses.

Went back to a good range yesterday where I can really spot the landing areas. 7 iron CG1 going about as far as 8 iron MX-300, maybe a hair longer when I really catch both of them.

Trajectory with the blades was really nice 5 iron and up, looks a little less humpbacked, and more out and up with a steeper descent, but I'm not on the radar or anything. . .just trying to pay attention. I hit a 5 and 6 into greens when I played last saturday, and they probably released about as much as my old 6 & 7.

I think it's promising enough to keep going with them during the off-season. That 6 iron and shorter really felt like "point and shoot" and were really holding a line.

Also, not sure about clubhead speed. I'm not a bomber, but I keep it out there with all the other 4-8 handicappers in my club. 260 - 280 when I REALLY catch the driver. 225 with the 4W. I got driver fitted a couple years ago, and I remember it being in the 100 range. Not sure with irons, but it's a similar swing (so 90 ish or something on a mid iron? I dont really know about that stuff.)

Ping G400 LST 10º XTORSION Copper 60
RBZ Stage 2 4W 17º
Strong torso
Cobra f6 Hybrid
Mizuno JPX-900 Forged 4I-GW
Vokey 54º/14º F-grind
Vokey 60º/04º. "The Scalpel"
Odyssey Stroke Lab Black Ten
Oncore Elixir Neon Green

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I ask about the clubhead speed as it may be the Dynamic Golds aren't suited to your swing type. As mentioned previously, the DGs have a higher kick point, more of a sweeping kick, whereas the Dynalites you have in your other irons have a lower kick point, more like a whip. You're likely getting less carry with the Cleveland, which is hurting your distance, especially if you are steep coming into the ball. I think in time you will adapt to the different shafts and your distances will come up. I've had several set of Cleveland irons (TA1, TA3, 588 blades) and find them as long as any other clubs I've played.

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Hybrids: Callaway X2 Hot Pro 18*
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Easy way to figure out if you hit it well enough to play a blade:

apply masking tape to the face of the club and hit a 5-10 balls, then look and see what the dispersement of the contact pattern is on the face.

You have to be able to repeatedly strike a blade the same way everytime for them to be effective. Some of the worlds best players stray away from blades now..

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[quote name='LULynx'er' timestamp='1350492178' post='5806867']
Easy way to figure out if you hit it well enough to play a blade:

apply masking tape to the face of the club and hit a 5-10 balls, then look and see what the dispersement of the contact pattern is on the face.

You have to be able to repeatedly strike a blade the same way everytime for them to be effective. Some of the worlds best players stray away from blades now..
[/quote]

If you nut the centre consistenly blades go the same distance

All down to personal preference, but they do seem to suit better ball strikers who claim they can hit a greater variety of shots with the one ones (tiger and hogan and Rory have been great exponents of pure ball striking)

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