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DIY Driver tune up / DIY fitting


Howard_Jones

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Probably so, still not sure how much weight. I imagine I'll decide on a length today after the range, get it cut, and then experiment with weights/dimes/lead tape. 44" felt so goofy and I think I lost some distance but I can't argue with the results so far.

 

Dont cut it before you are done with testing of head weight, you might want to stiffen up the shaft by partly tip trim because of more head weight, so dont blow that option

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Howard, I've been going back and forth between a 44.5"' and 45" driver. They are different heads and different shafts, too. Surprisingly, I did your tuneup but I'm getting about the same results for impact location with both. Green smiley face. My guess is that the 44.5" is ideal and I get used to 45" after a few swings when testing with impact tape. The 45" is tempting me with 1-2 mph more ball speed. Not sure what to make of this. Any advice?

 

Edit: Just saw your post a page or two back. Might just split the difference and go 44.75". :). Still would love to hear your thoughts HJ. Thanks!

917 D2 8.50* - Tensei CK Pro White 60
917 F2 13.5* - Rogue Max 70
816 H2 19.0* - D+ Plus 90
716 T-MB (3i, 4i) - Modus 120
716 CB (5-PW) - Modus 120
Hogan TK15 - 49, 55
Edel Deschutes

[url="http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/1457364-pitchinwedges-witb/page__p__15152218#entry15152218"][color=#0000ff][b]Photo WITB[/b][/color][/url]

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Oh yes a swing fault might give all sort of problems, but if you cant improve by following the above tips, then there is something wrong with your swing...

 

Ive been writing about my own fitting concept who i call Visual Fitting.

- Its like with the DIY tune up, no need for high tech equipment, just a trained eye.

Here is a cut/paste from another post with that:

 

SHAFT FITTING

We cant always pick a shaft with "lower" or "higher" launch and always get there, because the shaft is the players "dancing partner" and its how this "Couple" respond to each other that makes the "chemistry" between them. I like to say that the shaft influence more on the player than the player influence on the shaft, so if the shaft for some reason make the player to compensate in a way thats not beneficial for his play, a high launch might bring ball flight down, while a low launch might bring flight up.

 

We always have to start by "going by the book", but DONT expect ´"the book" to be right in every case, because its sometimes the o posit result of what we should expect from the label of that shaft. Testing and some trial and error is always needed to dial in whats right for each player, and over time, every club fitter has seen this and had his doubt about why it can go down this way when its in conflict with the labels and the book.

 

I also found that we can LOOK on the player while he is swinging the club, and actually SEE if the shaft is right for him, long before we got a single number from the launch monitor. All players got his own swing, but its not that hard to SEE whats wrong or his need for changes, just by looking on him while he swing the club, and i would like to tell you all what i look for and what i judge by that.

 

VISUAL FITTING

 

Weight - Tempo

- Try to evaluate if the players Tempo is under control

His tempo shall be as close to the same for each and every swing, and we can see if his rhythm is good or not (balance and float)

A Strong player with a shaft to light, will slow down and become insecure, so its no float in his rhythm -try more shaft weight

A shaft to heavy for the player, and you will see that he is struggling in transition, so he "jump start" the club by his back and hips - NO GOOD

 

Transition to Down swing - Butt / Mid flex strength

- Look at the players "aggressiveness" or the lack of it.

Like with Tempo, float and control is what you wants to see, so here is what happen if flex dont fit

- If the butt to mid part of the shaft is to weak, the player will just like a shaft who is too light, slow down because the feedback he gets does him insecure, like he dont "trust" that the shaft can handle his natural way of loading it. its feel wrong for him simply. Go stiffer

- If the butt to mid is too stiff, it will trigger him to "overplay", just like a shaft who is to heavy, so he is using to much power from the top in his attempt to load this pole, but you will SEE that he is using to much energy, and that he is loosing control for that reason.

 

TIP of the shaft

- This part is what by the book shall give a difference in launch from high if its soft, or low if it stiff, but thats not always right. Feedback from IMPACT is what goes into his deeper mental levels, so if it too stiff, he will start to overload from the top to make it feel right. (Look on his face, you can SEE he is aggressive)

 

We can actually SEE all this with our own eyes, so pay attention to his power use, his rythm and float, and if it looks like electrical "sparks" coming out in several stages of his swing, we know that he is "leaking power" he want be able to transfer to the ball.

 

- DONT underestimate a player physical strength or need for weight before you have tried some option to find out what THIS player should play.

Ive seen many players, who by visual inspection swinging their own clubs LOOKs weak, because they have a slow tempo, hardly no aggressiveness and not that impressive club speed, but DONT start by going LIGHTER to speed him up, go HEAVY. Often this players has the same syndrome as a stronger player who get a shaft to light or weak, so the reason why his tempo is slow, his aggressiveness not present, and club speed in the lower end, might be the need for more weight or MOI/resistance, so he cant find out how he can transfer his power to this club. His dancing partner has made him slow and weak, but that does not mean that he is.

 

By using this "Visual fitting" steps, we can use the shaft to "trigger" a player into the right path for him. and when we found whats right, you will SEE that its working, and if you ask the player how it feels, he will tell you that it feels right for him. and he will have the very best odds of making pure contact with the ball.

 

If we do it this way, we have to forget that one shaft is Low launch and one shaft is High, because we used that differences to alter HIS FEEL, to trigger his swing into whats right, but not to make a difference to ball flight. Tweak ball flight by tweaking loft, and/or another ball, DONT leave IT ALL to the shaft, it want be able to do it all for you, and feel right on top of it. If you find a shaft that can do all this, included flight you been lucky, so dont ask to much from the shaft alone, but let the shaft take care of what it really can do for you, and flight is not the most important since that can be done much easier by loft.

 

I dont know, but i like to think thats why Tiger has a set up like he does. He plays X100 to get weight and feel right, but then he tweaked loft 2 up, to get flight WAY HIGHER than any High launch shaft could have brought him, since dispersion might suffer bad, if we try to tweak flight by the shafts tip alone.

 

This is my way of doing this, and i always get to target this way, but i dont know how other club fitters does their job in this matters.

 

This is the best description of club fitting I have ever read, and mimics my experiences with tinkering, meaning getting "unexpected" results -- lower spin from high launch shafts, higher ball speed from heavier shafts, etc.... Howard, one question I do have, for certain types of iron shafts, I've noticed tip instability when otherwise the shaft feels great. Are there certain things we can do with irons to address tip stability, similar to tip trimming a graphite shaft. Specifically, I've noticed the KBS Tour shaft feels amazing when hitting the demo w/interchangeable shafts, only to hit the actual setup and feel it's unstable. My observation is that the "gear" on an interchangeable shaft rides higher than a normal hosel and thus immobilizes the tip section. Can we make those adjustments to steel shafts without altering flex/feel? Thanks!

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Oh yes a swing fault might give all sort of problems, but if you cant improve by following the above tips, then there is something wrong with your swing...

 

Ive been writing about my own fitting concept who i call Visual Fitting.

- Its like with the DIY tune up, no need for high tech equipment, just a trained eye.

Here is a cut/paste from another post with that:

 

SHAFT FITTING

We cant always pick a shaft with "lower" or "higher" launch and always get there, because the shaft is the players "dancing partner" and its how this "Couple" respond to each other that makes the "chemistry" between them. I like to say that the shaft influence more on the player than the player influence on the shaft, so if the shaft for some reason make the player to compensate in a way thats not beneficial for his play, a high launch might bring ball flight down, while a low launch might bring flight up.

 

We always have to start by "going by the book", but DONT expect ´"the book" to be right in every case, because its sometimes the o posit result of what we should expect from the label of that shaft. Testing and some trial and error is always needed to dial in whats right for each player, and over time, every club fitter has seen this and had his doubt about why it can go down this way when its in conflict with the labels and the book.

 

I also found that we can LOOK on the player while he is swinging the club, and actually SEE if the shaft is right for him, long before we got a single number from the launch monitor. All players got his own swing, but its not that hard to SEE whats wrong or his need for changes, just by looking on him while he swing the club, and i would like to tell you all what i look for and what i judge by that.

 

VISUAL FITTING

 

Weight - Tempo

- Try to evaluate if the players Tempo is under control

His tempo shall be as close to the same for each and every swing, and we can see if his rhythm is good or not (balance and float)

A Strong player with a shaft to light, will slow down and become insecure, so its no float in his rhythm -try more shaft weight

A shaft to heavy for the player, and you will see that he is struggling in transition, so he "jump start" the club by his back and hips - NO GOOD

 

Transition to Down swing - Butt / Mid flex strength

- Look at the players "aggressiveness" or the lack of it.

Like with Tempo, float and control is what you wants to see, so here is what happen if flex dont fit

- If the butt to mid part of the shaft is to weak, the player will just like a shaft who is too light, slow down because the feedback he gets does him insecure, like he dont "trust" that the shaft can handle his natural way of loading it. its feel wrong for him simply. Go stiffer

- If the butt to mid is too stiff, it will trigger him to "overplay", just like a shaft who is to heavy, so he is using to much power from the top in his attempt to load this pole, but you will SEE that he is using to much energy, and that he is loosing control for that reason.

 

TIP of the shaft

- This part is what by the book shall give a difference in launch from high if its soft, or low if it stiff, but thats not always right. Feedback from IMPACT is what goes into his deeper mental levels, so if it too stiff, he will start to overload from the top to make it feel right. (Look on his face, you can SEE he is aggressive)

 

We can actually SEE all this with our own eyes, so pay attention to his power use, his rythm and float, and if it looks like electrical "sparks" coming out in several stages of his swing, we know that he is "leaking power" he want be able to transfer to the ball.

 

- DONT underestimate a player physical strength or need for weight before you have tried some option to find out what THIS player should play.

Ive seen many players, who by visual inspection swinging their own clubs LOOKs weak, because they have a slow tempo, hardly no aggressiveness and not that impressive club speed, but DONT start by going LIGHTER to speed him up, go HEAVY. Often this players has the same syndrome as a stronger player who get a shaft to light or weak, so the reason why his tempo is slow, his aggressiveness not present, and club speed in the lower end, might be the need for more weight or MOI/resistance, so he cant find out how he can transfer his power to this club. His dancing partner has made him slow and weak, but that does not mean that he is.

 

By using this "Visual fitting" steps, we can use the shaft to "trigger" a player into the right path for him. and when we found whats right, you will SEE that its working, and if you ask the player how it feels, he will tell you that it feels right for him. and he will have the very best odds of making pure contact with the ball.

 

If we do it this way, we have to forget that one shaft is Low launch and one shaft is High, because we used that differences to alter HIS FEEL, to trigger his swing into whats right, but not to make a difference to ball flight. Tweak ball flight by tweaking loft, and/or another ball, DONT leave IT ALL to the shaft, it want be able to do it all for you, and feel right on top of it. If you find a shaft that can do all this, included flight you been lucky, so dont ask to much from the shaft alone, but let the shaft take care of what it really can do for you, and flight is not the most important since that can be done much easier by loft.

 

I dont know, but i like to think thats why Tiger has a set up like he does. He plays X100 to get weight and feel right, but then he tweaked loft 2 up, to get flight WAY HIGHER than any High launch shaft could have brought him, since dispersion might suffer bad, if we try to tweak flight by the shafts tip alone.

 

This is my way of doing this, and i always get to target this way, but i dont know how other club fitters does their job in this matters.

 

This is the best description of club fitting I have ever read, and mimics my experiences with tinkering, meaning getting "unexpected" results -- lower spin from high launch shafts, higher ball speed from heavier shafts, etc.... Howard, one question I do have, for certain types of iron shafts, I've noticed tip instability when otherwise the shaft feels great. Are there certain things we can do with irons to address tip stability, similar to tip trimming a graphite shaft. Specifically, I've noticed the KBS Tour shaft feels amazing when hitting the demo w/interchangeable shafts, only to hit the actual setup and feel it's unstable. My observation is that the "gear" on an interchangeable shaft rides higher than a normal hosel and thus immobilizes the tip section. Can we make those adjustments to steel shafts without altering flex/feel? Thanks!

 

Its only the tip above the hosel who can bend, so if the same shaft get more or less of its tip blocked for movement, it does made a influence on flex.

Deeper insert or tip trim gives the same effect, so if this demo setup makes a difference to a regular club head, measure the difference, then you know how to equalize it (hosel top to first step)

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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Howard, I've been going back and forth between a 44.5"' and 45" driver. They are different heads and different shafts, too. Surprisingly, I did your tuneup but I'm getting about the same results for impact location with both. Green smiley face. My guess is that the 44.5" is ideal and I get used to 45" after a few swings when testing with impact tape. The 45" is tempting me with 1-2 mph more ball speed. Not sure what to make of this. Any advice?

 

Edit: Just saw your post a page or two back. Might just split the difference and go 44.75". :). Still would love to hear your thoughts HJ. Thanks!

 

Count mishits - or fairways, then just choose the best

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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Thanks Howard! I cut 0.25" off the butt section and decided to go down to 44.75" for now. If I see a tendency for a particular miss-hit I can always cut some more. After thinking about it more, I decided a 1mph increase in ball speed is not worth 1 (or more) missed fairways.

917 D2 8.50* - Tensei CK Pro White 60
917 F2 13.5* - Rogue Max 70
816 H2 19.0* - D+ Plus 90
716 T-MB (3i, 4i) - Modus 120
716 CB (5-PW) - Modus 120
Hogan TK15 - 49, 55
Edel Deschutes

[url="http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/1457364-pitchinwedges-witb/page__p__15152218#entry15152218"][color=#0000ff][b]Photo WITB[/b][/color][/url]

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  • 2 weeks later...

Howard - thank you for all the information found in this post.

 

I have a couple of questions for you. Currently I'm gaming a Cobra F7+ standard length (I think playing 45'') with a Graphite Designs Tour AD GP 7X.

 

I'm a 5 handicap and SS goes between 115 and 120. I feel like I'm really struggling to maintain consistent tempo with my driver. I have to be very mindful to "set" the club at the top of my backswing to feel like I'm in the right position - if I can achieve this then bombs away. But its inconsistent and the feeling I get is that I don't know where the clubhead is at the top of my swing which results in inconsistent strikes usually high on the face and towards the toe. Heel shots can also pop in there. Also, my most common miss right now is either a straight push or a push cut that is sometimes unplayable.

 

I'm wondering if I should try adding some lead tape to my driver? If so, where should it be applied?

 

Do you have any other ideas for me?

 

My body type is like DJ. I'm 6'4 and around 195lbs. Comparing my swing style to someone on tour - I've been told Justin Rose is a close approximation.

G400 LST - TPT proto
TM M3 - Rogue Silver 110MSI 70S
21* Fourteen Type 7 Driving Iron - HZRDUS Black 6.5 105g
4 - PW Mizuno MP 18 MMC - SteelFiber FC115
50, 54, 60 RC Dual Bite - SteelFiber i125
Evnroll ER5
Snell MTB Black

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Howard - thank you for all the information found in this post.

 

I have a couple of questions for you. Currently I'm gaming a Cobra F7+ standard length (I think playing 45'') with a Graphite Designs Tour AD GP 7X.

 

I'm a 5 handicap and SS goes between 115 and 120. I feel like I'm really struggling to maintain consistent tempo with my driver. I have to be very mindful to "set" the club at the top of my backswing to feel like I'm in the right position - if I can achieve this then bombs away. But its inconsistent and the feeling I get is that I don't know where the clubhead is at the top of my swing which results in inconsistent strikes usually high on the face and towards the toe. Heel shots can also pop in there. Also, my most common miss right now is either a straight push or a push cut that is sometimes unplayable.

 

I'm wondering if I should try adding some lead tape to my driver? If so, where should it be applied?

 

Do you have any other ideas for me?

 

My body type is like DJ. I'm 6'4 and around 195lbs. Comparing my swing style to someone on tour - I've been told Justin Rose is a close approximation.

 

YES - add some lead tape to the head, it does not really matter where we add it, it takes a LOT to make any influence or tweak of BIAS to fade or draw, or added dynamic loft, so just add it a place you dont see it from address, and where there is little or no risk to scrub it off if you hit the ground.

Just add 2 inch of lead tape at the time until its overdone, and go back until you got the feel you want.

 

At 6 foot 4" you are quite tall, but still, a 45.00" long driver might be to long, so while you are at it, use a tape on the grip and make a "imaginary" cut down to 44.50" (lower your grip below the tape"). That combo, 0.5 shorter and some grams added to the head might do wonders for feel and your ability to pure it over and over again. Use a dry erase marker and a DOT in the ball and pay attention to how tight your impact pattern is.

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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Howard - thank you for all the information found in this post.

 

I have a couple of questions for you. Currently I'm gaming a Cobra F7+ standard length (I think playing 45'') with a Graphite Designs Tour AD GP 7X.

 

I'm a 5 handicap and SS goes between 115 and 120. I feel like I'm really struggling to maintain consistent tempo with my driver. I have to be very mindful to "set" the club at the top of my backswing to feel like I'm in the right position - if I can achieve this then bombs away. But its inconsistent and the feeling I get is that I don't know where the clubhead is at the top of my swing which results in inconsistent strikes usually high on the face and towards the toe. Heel shots can also pop in there. Also, my most common miss right now is either a straight push or a push cut that is sometimes unplayable.

 

I'm wondering if I should try adding some lead tape to my driver? If so, where should it be applied?

 

Do you have any other ideas for me?

 

My body type is like DJ. I'm 6'4 and around 195lbs. Comparing my swing style to someone on tour - I've been told Justin Rose is a close approximation.

 

YES - add some lead tape to the head, it does not really matter where we add it, it takes a LOT to make any influence or tweak of BIAS to fade or draw, or added dynamic loft, so just add it a place you dont see it from address, and where there is little or no risk to scrub it off if you hit the ground.

Just add 2 inch of lead tape at the time until its overdone, and go back until you got the feel you want.

 

At 6 foot 4" you are quite tall, but still, a 45.00" long driver might be to long, so while you are at it, use a tape on the grip and make a "imaginary" cut down to 44.50" (lower your grip below the tape"). That combo, 0.5 shorter and some grams added to the head might do wonders for feel and your ability to pure it over and over again. Use a dry erase marker and a DOT in the ball and pay attention to how tight your impact pattern is.

 

Excellent, thank you Howard. I apologize if this has been asked and answered before but lets say that 44.5'' is the ticket as far as length goes. Is it advisable to butt trim the shaft at that point? Or stick with my mid-size grips and go for a few extra wraps while gripping down on the shaft?

G400 LST - TPT proto
TM M3 - Rogue Silver 110MSI 70S
21* Fourteen Type 7 Driving Iron - HZRDUS Black 6.5 105g
4 - PW Mizuno MP 18 MMC - SteelFiber FC115
50, 54, 60 RC Dual Bite - SteelFiber i125
Evnroll ER5
Snell MTB Black

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Share on other sites

Howard - thank you for all the information found in this post.

 

I have a couple of questions for you. Currently I'm gaming a Cobra F7+ standard length (I think playing 45'') with a Graphite Designs Tour AD GP 7X.

 

I'm a 5 handicap and SS goes between 115 and 120. I feel like I'm really struggling to maintain consistent tempo with my driver. I have to be very mindful to "set" the club at the top of my backswing to feel like I'm in the right position - if I can achieve this then bombs away. But its inconsistent and the feeling I get is that I don't know where the clubhead is at the top of my swing which results in inconsistent strikes usually high on the face and towards the toe. Heel shots can also pop in there. Also, my most common miss right now is either a straight push or a push cut that is sometimes unplayable.

 

I'm wondering if I should try adding some lead tape to my driver? If so, where should it be applied?

 

Do you have any other ideas for me?

 

My body type is like DJ. I'm 6'4 and around 195lbs. Comparing my swing style to someone on tour - I've been told Justin Rose is a close approximation.

 

YES - add some lead tape to the head, it does not really matter where we add it, it takes a LOT to make any influence or tweak of BIAS to fade or draw, or added dynamic loft, so just add it a place you dont see it from address, and where there is little or no risk to scrub it off if you hit the ground.

Just add 2 inch of lead tape at the time until its overdone, and go back until you got the feel you want.

 

At 6 foot 4" you are quite tall, but still, a 45.00" long driver might be to long, so while you are at it, use a tape on the grip and make a "imaginary" cut down to 44.50" (lower your grip below the tape"). That combo, 0.5 shorter and some grams added to the head might do wonders for feel and your ability to pure it over and over again. Use a dry erase marker and a DOT in the ball and pay attention to how tight your impact pattern is.

 

Excellent, thank you Howard. I apologize if this has been asked and answered before but lets say that 44.5'' is the ticket as far as length goes. Is it advisable to butt trim the shaft at that point? Or stick with my mid-size grips and go for a few extra wraps while gripping down on the shaft?

 

If it feels good when you try it "taped down", and after head weight adjustment, then butt cut and add a new grip. In cases where the shaft feel softer than you like it, tip trim is the way to go. Some dont want to cut down their shafts at all, and then a grip size adjustment and a permanent grip mark (to know where to grip it) can be done, so it really does not matter how we do it, as long as it works as we want it to.

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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Howard - thank you for all the information found in this post.

 

I have a couple of questions for you. Currently I'm gaming a Cobra F7+ standard length (I think playing 45'') with a Graphite Designs Tour AD GP 7X.

 

I'm a 5 handicap and SS goes between 115 and 120. I feel like I'm really struggling to maintain consistent tempo with my driver. I have to be very mindful to "set" the club at the top of my backswing to feel like I'm in the right position - if I can achieve this then bombs away. But its inconsistent and the feeling I get is that I don't know where the clubhead is at the top of my swing which results in inconsistent strikes usually high on the face and towards the toe. Heel shots can also pop in there. Also, my most common miss right now is either a straight push or a push cut that is sometimes unplayable.

 

I'm wondering if I should try adding some lead tape to my driver? If so, where should it be applied?

 

Do you have any other ideas for me?

 

My body type is like DJ. I'm 6'4 and around 195lbs. Comparing my swing style to someone on tour - I've been told Justin Rose is a close approximation.

 

YES - add some lead tape to the head, it does not really matter where we add it, it takes a LOT to make any influence or tweak of BIAS to fade or draw, or added dynamic loft, so just add it a place you dont see it from address, and where there is little or no risk to scrub it off if you hit the ground.

Just add 2 inch of lead tape at the time until its overdone, and go back until you got the feel you want.

 

At 6 foot 4" you are quite tall, but still, a 45.00" long driver might be to long, so while you are at it, use a tape on the grip and make a "imaginary" cut down to 44.50" (lower your grip below the tape"). That combo, 0.5 shorter and some grams added to the head might do wonders for feel and your ability to pure it over and over again. Use a dry erase marker and a DOT in the ball and pay attention to how tight your impact pattern is.

 

Excellent, thank you Howard. I apologize if this has been asked and answered before but lets say that 44.5'' is the ticket as far as length goes. Is it advisable to butt trim the shaft at that point? Or stick with my mid-size grips and go for a few extra wraps while gripping down on the shaft?

 

If it feels good when you try it "taped down", and after head weight adjustment, then butt cut and add a new grip. In cases where the shaft feel softer than you like it, tip trim is the way to go. Some dont want to cut down their shafts at all, and then a grip size adjustment and a permanent grip mark (to know where to grip it) can be done, so it really does not matter how we do it, as long as it works as we want it to.

 

Howard, just got back from a quick practice session. Not only am I thinking my head weight was too light but I think the club length may be too long at 45'' as well.

 

I added two inches of tape as you mentioned and hit 5 or 6 shots and I was all over the place. Then I hit 5 or 6 shots gripping down 1/2 an inch - this helped. Then I added another 2'' of tape. Hit balls between 45'' and 44''. Gripping down improved shot pattern considerably.

 

Then added another 2'' of tape and repeated. I'm thinking that I should be playing somewhere closer to 44'' along with the additional head weight. Referring back to your original post my impact pattern was high toey in the hot zone. Ball flight was also very consistent and accurate (for me) with these changes. Not sure exactly how much tape I used today but a healthy 6" at least.

 

I tried not to hit a ton of balls because I was hoping to react naturally to these changes rather than manipulating my swing to compensate. Let's just say I'm VERY pleased with what I saw today. I'm playing 18 tomorrow and can't wait to see.

 

For those that may be interested I'll post some more updates as I give these changes a good try.

 

Howard, thank you very much for your insight and advice.

G400 LST - TPT proto
TM M3 - Rogue Silver 110MSI 70S
21* Fourteen Type 7 Driving Iron - HZRDUS Black 6.5 105g
4 - PW Mizuno MP 18 MMC - SteelFiber FC115
50, 54, 60 RC Dual Bite - SteelFiber i125
Evnroll ER5
Snell MTB Black

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Share on other sites

Howard - thank you for all the information found in this post.

 

I have a couple of questions for you. Currently I'm gaming a Cobra F7+ standard length (I think playing 45'') with a Graphite Designs Tour AD GP 7X.

 

I'm a 5 handicap and SS goes between 115 and 120. I feel like I'm really struggling to maintain consistent tempo with my driver. I have to be very mindful to "set" the club at the top of my backswing to feel like I'm in the right position - if I can achieve this then bombs away. But its inconsistent and the feeling I get is that I don't know where the clubhead is at the top of my swing which results in inconsistent strikes usually high on the face and towards the toe. Heel shots can also pop in there. Also, my most common miss right now is either a straight push or a push cut that is sometimes unplayable.

 

I'm wondering if I should try adding some lead tape to my driver? If so, where should it be applied?

 

Do you have any other ideas for me?

 

My body type is like DJ. I'm 6'4 and around 195lbs. Comparing my swing style to someone on tour - I've been told Justin Rose is a close approximation.

 

YES - add some lead tape to the head, it does not really matter where we add it, it takes a LOT to make any influence or tweak of BIAS to fade or draw, or added dynamic loft, so just add it a place you dont see it from address, and where there is little or no risk to scrub it off if you hit the ground.

Just add 2 inch of lead tape at the time until its overdone, and go back until you got the feel you want.

 

At 6 foot 4" you are quite tall, but still, a 45.00" long driver might be to long, so while you are at it, use a tape on the grip and make a "imaginary" cut down to 44.50" (lower your grip below the tape"). That combo, 0.5 shorter and some grams added to the head might do wonders for feel and your ability to pure it over and over again. Use a dry erase marker and a DOT in the ball and pay attention to how tight your impact pattern is.

 

Excellent, thank you Howard. I apologize if this has been asked and answered before but lets say that 44.5'' is the ticket as far as length goes. Is it advisable to butt trim the shaft at that point? Or stick with my mid-size grips and go for a few extra wraps while gripping down on the shaft?

 

If it feels good when you try it "taped down", and after head weight adjustment, then butt cut and add a new grip. In cases where the shaft feel softer than you like it, tip trim is the way to go. Some dont want to cut down their shafts at all, and then a grip size adjustment and a permanent grip mark (to know where to grip it) can be done, so it really does not matter how we do it, as long as it works as we want it to.

 

Howard, just got back from a quick practice session. Not only am I thinking my head weight was too light but I think the club length may be too long at 45'' as well.

 

I added two inches of tape as you mentioned and hit 5 or 6 shots and I was all over the place. Then I hit 5 or 6 shots gripping down 1/2 an inch - this helped. Then I added another 2'' of tape. Hit balls between 45'' and 44''. Gripping down improved shot pattern considerably.

 

Then added another 2'' of tape and repeated. I'm thinking that I should be playing somewhere closer to 44'' along with the additional head weight. Referring back to your original post my impact pattern was high toey in the hot zone. Ball flight was also very consistent and accurate (for me) with these changes. Not sure exactly how much tape I used today but a healthy 6" at least.

 

I tried not to hit a ton of balls because I was hoping to react naturally to these changes rather than manipulating my swing to compensate. Let's just say I'm VERY pleased with what I saw today. I'm playing 18 tomorrow and can't wait to see.

 

For those that may be interested I'll post some more updates as I give these changes a good try.

 

Howard, thank you very much for your insight and advice.

 

So, results yesterday on course weren't that great to begin with. I think on the front 9 I did not adjust my setup since I was gripping down on my driver an inch. Felt like I was reaching for the ball and hit some hooks as a result (at least that's what it felt like to me)

 

Mix of heel and toe strikes but on the back nine I pured a couple. Will need to experiment a bit more I think. Overall, impact pattern was tighter then it has been.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Miss lately has been a push fade. I wonder if I get lazy sometimes on my release. Also, impact pattern has been shifting a bit to the heel again. More lead tape to the driver head, Howard any thoughts?

 

I only seem to have this type of miss with my driver.

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Miss lately has been a push fade. I wonder if I get lazy sometimes on my release. Also, impact pattern has been shifting a bit to the heel again. More lead tape to the driver head, Howard any thoughts?

 

I only seem to have this type of miss with my driver.

 

I miss like that too sometimes. Heel-side strike resulting in push, fade, push fade, or at worst a slice. For me it seems to happen when I early extend a bit with the hands returning at a slightly higher plane at impact. Creeps in when I'm not sequencing well.

 

The heavy head feel is magic for me but it's hard swinging with 110% effort all the time. In the past, Howard helped me to understand heavy is ok but I learned not to go take it too far or else it's easy to get out of sync. Also experienced this with both too light and too heavy/stiff shaft.

 

Maybe this helps but obviously I'm not Howard, so I hope he chimes in.

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Miss lately has been a push fade. I wonder if I get lazy sometimes on my release. Also, impact pattern has been shifting a bit to the heel again. More lead tape to the driver head, Howard any thoughts?

 

I only seem to have this type of miss with my driver.

 

I miss like that too sometimes. Heel-side strike resulting in push, fade, push fade, or at worst a slice. For me it seems to happen when I early extend a bit with the hands returning at a slightly higher plane at impact. Creeps in when I'm not sequencing well.

 

The heavy head feel is magic for me but it's hard swinging with 110% effort all the time. In the past, Howard helped me to understand heavy is ok but I learned not to go take it too far or else it's easy to get out of sync. Also experienced this with both too light and too heavy/stiff shaft.

 

Maybe this helps but obviously I'm not Howard, so I hope he chimes in.

 

What, if anything, have you done to help with early extension? This is likely a fault in my swing too. I'm a decent player but when my swing is off I might hit 4 or 5 shanks in a round. It's like my swing completely leaves me. Then I play a few days later and shoot 75 :/

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For me it's all about sequence. If I shift weight correctly it helps ensure I rotate and keep tush back instead of sliding and thrusting. Otherwise, I get weight shifter over to the left eventually but the hands and hips have to move the wrong way to compensate. Along with conscientious practice, I've found the right club heft and balance (dare I say MOI?) has made this much more automatic.

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For me it's all about sequence. If I shift weight correctly it helps ensure I rotate and keep tush back instead of sliding and thrusting. Otherwise, I get weight shifter over to the left eventually but the hands and hips have to move the wrong way to compensate. Along with conscientious practice, I've found the right club heft and balance (dare I say MOI?) has made this much more automatic.

 

I see. For the past couple months my ball striking and iron game has been solid and there haven't been any hozzle rockets but I played yesterday and probably had five. Most of the time my swing feels fine but it just happens. Whatever happens I think I come from the inside way too much and try to save it at the end which may or may not work.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 8 months later...

I currently have a Rogue driver measures at 45.5", tip trimmed 1/2 with GD IZ. I want to cut it down, but not sure what length, knowing that this length is not working for me as my consistency has suffered. I have a 44.5" M1 driver with Tour Green shaft and am def more consistent in ball striking. Wondering what would happen with the SW of the Rogue if I cut an 1" off this driver? Do they sell a heavier replacement weight in the back of the clubhead? Should I do 1/2" at a time or meet in the middle and do 3/4"....help deciding?

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I currently have a Rogue driver measures at 45.5", tip trimmed 1/2 with GD IZ. I want to cut it down, but not sure what length, knowing that this length is not working for me as my consistency has suffered. I have a 44.5" M1 driver with Tour Green shaft and am def more consistent in ball striking. Wondering what would happen with the SW of the Rogue if I cut an 1" off this driver? Do they sell a heavier replacement weight in the back of the clubhead? Should I do 1/2" at a time or meet in the middle and do 3/4"....help deciding?

 

Get a roll of lead tape to dial in head wgt, and some electric tape to make a imaginary cut down of the shaft and try it off....its that simple

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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I currently have a Rogue driver measures at 45.5", tip trimmed 1/2 with GD IZ. I want to cut it down, but not sure what length, knowing that this length is not working for me as my consistency has suffered. I have a 44.5" M1 driver with Tour Green shaft and am def more consistent in ball striking. Wondering what would happen with the SW of the Rogue if I cut an 1" off this driver? Do they sell a heavier replacement weight in the back of the clubhead? Should I do 1/2" at a time or meet in the middle and do 3/4"....help deciding?

 

Get a roll of lead tape to dial in head wgt, and some electric tape to make a imaginary cut down of the shaft and try it off....its that simple

Thanks Howard, what would be the amount of weight in grams I would need if I cut off 1/2", 3/4" & 1" to match the current SW? They do sell heavier weights for the rogue driver....

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L.A.B DF3 34" Accra Shaft w/2* Press Pistol

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I currently have a Rogue driver measures at 45.5", tip trimmed 1/2 with GD IZ. I want to cut it down, but not sure what length, knowing that this length is not working for me as my consistency has suffered. I have a 44.5" M1 driver with Tour Green shaft and am def more consistent in ball striking. Wondering what would happen with the SW of the Rogue if I cut an 1" off this driver? Do they sell a heavier replacement weight in the back of the clubhead? Should I do 1/2" at a time or meet in the middle and do 3/4"....help deciding?

 

Get a roll of lead tape to dial in head wgt, and some electric tape to make a imaginary cut down of the shaft and try it off....its that simple

Thanks Howard, what would be the amount of weight in grams I would need if I cut off 1/2", 3/4" & 1" to match the current SW? They do sell heavier weights for the rogue driver....

 

Read the first post in this tread....using a SW value as target is not the way to go

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  • 1 month later...

Thanks Howard. I will try adding weight to the 60g shaft as mentioned in your original post.

 

One thing I forgot to mention is I switched from a black Tour wrap grip to a white one on the RIP 60. The white grips are 7g heavier.

 

Should I still place the lead tape 14" from the butt end?

 

Thanks again.

 

7 grams on the grip dont change anything other than total weight, but its on a spot of the club where those grams means nothing in performance matters.

Yes add weight 14" inch down from the butt to simulate a higher shaft weight and see if you are improving, and you might even want to go down on SW value (its VERY high if its measured with a 50 gram grip)

 

Dont forget that a SW scale cant see club length, so when a driver and a iron has the same value, its because the scale is stupid enough to think they had the same length, but since they dont, the scale actually returned a error.

 

If you play a #6 iron at 37.50" (standard), and a driver of 44 and D2 is good for irons, then D2 is NO GOOD in driver

Sub 2/3 Sw point for each 0.5 longer (44.00 minus 37.50 = 6.5 inch x 2/3 sw point = 4.3 SW point DOWN from D2 on your driver)

So if a #6 iron at D2 feel good, a driver with C7 2/3 SW point is the "matching" SW value on a driver.

Thats why i think you might have gone to far with head weight on your driver.

 

@Stuart

I did not notice the small r letter, but moving from S to R reduces swing aggressiveness, so it should be visible on a LM report, but it does not make sense here since he improved distance on the good ones, but got to many bad ones on the deal.

If he was to aggressive with the S flex, that club is the one who should have directional problems due to a variable impact spot, not the softer one who should provide more control and feedback in his swing (softer - less stress).

 

Howard, Is there a chart for this anywhere? Would the swing weight progressively get heavier from the 6 iron to the lob wedge to feel the same?

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