DIY Driver tune up / DIY fitting

[Golfrnut]

When adding lead tape to a shaft to test for the need for a heavier shaft, I do not think it should be added at 14" to keep the swingweight the same. I think it should be added at the balance point of the cut shaft, or even better, spread along both sides of that point, from butt to tip. That is a better representation of where the weight will be in the heavier shaft.

 

 

Agree and disagree. The 14" mark just comes from being able to add heft weight without adding swingweight. When you start loading it on the balance point, you take a big chance on adding a lot of swingweight. You also start drastically increasing the MOI. The 14" mark just allows you to add shaft weight, not lighten the head weight feel quite as much, but increase the heft weight. But I agree, adding a strip lengthwise across the balance point down the spine of the shaft, specially if you are adding 10-15 grams, is the better option.

[Tomed]

Howard,

 

I have a situation that contradicts your original post.

 

I have a Callaway XR16 Pro that was 45.5". I cut it down to 43.5" total length and took it to the range and was hitting everything low on the face and toward the heel. Your original chart said that low on the face and at the heel means the shaft is too long.

 

What do you think about that?

[Howard_Jones]

if i saw your ball position and swing i could tell, but try to address the ball a bit against the toe and see if that makes a difference

[Matt J]

Hey Howard - quick question for you....

 

I came back to the game a couple of years ago and immediately bought a Nike Covert 2.0 Performance (not the tour) driver. The shop I purchased it from didn't have the shaft combo I wanted and offered me any of the shafts out of the fitting cart to make the sale. I chose the 60 gram KK TiNi shaft in stiff that has an actual weight of 67 grams that Nike paired with the Tour head. Turns out the head weight is different and the Tour head is lighter. I just bought an inexpensive swingweight scale and this combo is off the charts heavy, E0 or E1 according to my scale. Most my clubs are D3 or D4. Am I losing a bunch of distance due to the excessive swingweight? Is there any way to drill weight out of a modern driver head?

 

maybe not that quick, sorry and thank you in advance for any response!

[Howard_Jones]

Hey Howard - quick question for you....

 

I came back to the game a couple of years ago and immediately bought a Nike Covert 2.0 Performance (not the tour) driver. The shop I purchased it from didn't have the shaft combo I wanted and offered me any of the shafts out of the fitting cart to make the sale. I chose the 60 gram KK TiNi shaft in stiff that has an actual weight of 67 grams that Nike paired with the Tour head. Turns out the head weight is different and the Tour head is lighter. I just bought an inexpensive swingweight scale and this combo is off the charts heavy, E0 or E1 according to my scale. Most my clubs are D3 or D4. Am I losing a bunch of distance due to the excessive swingweight? Is there any way to drill weight out of a modern driver head?

 

maybe not that quick, sorry and thank you in advance for any response!

 

Only heads with movable weights can be taken down, so the only real option is to go down on shaft length if there is no weights you can remove.

[Matt J]

I've got a Graffaloy backup shaft, so I'm going to get some grips from my local golf shop and start cutting.

 

I'll check the charts and see how much I'm comfortable chopping. Don't want to lose too much distance.

 

Thanks, Howard.

[Howard_Jones]

I've got a Graffaloy backup shaft, so I'm going to get some grips from my local golf shop and start cutting.

 

I'll check the charts and see how much I'm comfortable chopping. Don't want to lose too much distance.

 

Thanks, Howard.

 

I would have to ask if you really did read what this tread is all about, or did you just drop in to ask a question about swing weight?

[smellysell]

Howard, just read the entire thread. Thanks for everything you contribute to the site!

[apprenti23]

Clubfitting is not a perfect science. Toe and heel shots are rarely fixed by simple length and lie issues. They are most commonly swing faults. Off the toe doesn't always mean shaft too short. If you swing from the outside in I can give you shafts from standard to plus 2" long and bend them 6* upright and chances are you will still strike it off the toe. Conversely if you come severely from the inside out and strike the heel, I can go super short or flat and you'll still strike the heel.

 

Going through the process with a competent fitter using the best technology is the only way to truly go through a proper clubfitting. If that is unavailable to you, please understand your swing characteristics and how that affects impact before you go chopping and extending or bending your golf clubs!

[Matt J]

I've got a Graffaloy backup shaft, so I'm going to get some grips from my local golf shop and start cutting.

 

I'll check the charts and see how much I'm comfortable chopping. Don't want to lose too much distance.

 

Thanks, Howard.

 

I would have to ask if you really did read what this tread is all about, or did you just drop in to ask a question about swing weight?

 

Both. I was going to send you a PM then saw your profile.

 

I essentially fit myself into all my clubs even buying a loft and lie vise, so I was mildly interested.

 

I think I initially changed my swing to fit my equipment, but am now trying to adjust my equipment so that the right swing is rewarded.

[Hot Rod 71]

Howard, thank you for taking the time to write the OP. Great information!

 

Why is this thread not a "sticky" in the club building forum?

[Stuart_G]

I agree, it should be sticky - but have no idea what criteria the mods use to decide.

[Howard_Jones]

Howard, thank you for taking the time to write the OP. Great information!

 

Why is this thread not a "sticky" in the club building forum?

 

Im just glad its not, i once made a chart for shafts (10-15 minutes), and it kept me occupied for years to explain how useless it really was :-)

 

This tread how ever is good to read for all who wants to thinker with their own clubs, and no special tools is needed either, and thats whats the hole purpose of it, something "anyone" could do and take advantage of to improve their own clubs, not just the driver, but ALL clubs in the bag. But, i dont want it to be a pinned topic, its easy to find back, but only for members who use search and thats how i think it should be,

 

Whats really needed is more knowledge about how to use search in this forum, and for those who wants to find stuff ive been writing, just use my name to find it, its that easy, and this tread is easy to find by using "DIY Howard Jones", then it will be on top of the list you get in return.

 

For more dept info about the GEAR EFFECT issues on drivers, the tread with the name "Heavier shafts = Less spin" spin fills in all the details.

Especial all those players who are in a hunt for a "magic shaft" should read it, because many already have a "magic shaft" they just dont know how to make it work right, and why its not working like they want so they keep up hunting for it, even if they already have a shaft that can to the job.

 

http://www.golfwrx.c...haft-less-spin/

[asw7576]

Howard Jones,

 

I have a question about my driver .... when I begin the take away , I feel my driver is light , .... at the top of the swing, I feel the head is a bit weightless , not solid steady , not frozen .... should I add more weight to driver ?

 

Current specification of my driver : SwingWeight C6 , Ready to Play Total Weight 301 grams , Current Ballast Weight 3 grams, Length 45", Swing Transition Quick but not abrupt, SwingSpeed 92 mph.

 

Should I add more weight to the driver's head ? I have these weights at home : 3 grams, 5 grams, 7 grams, 9 grams .

 

Thanks for your advice ... :)

 

[Howard_Jones]

Most likely yes, if you cant feel the head on the top, add more weight until it works

[asw7576]

One more question Sir, .... if I add more ballast weight, so total club weight from 301 grams to 309 grams ... will this help to cure slice ?

 

My driver is RBZ Stage 2 driver, the ballast plug is located in the bottom, middle, forward section.

[Howard_Jones]

One more question Sir, .... if I add more ballast weight, so total club weight from 301 grams to 309 grams ... will this help to cure slice ?

 

That depends on why you slice (heel impact or face open to path swinging outside in, or to much wrist action trough the ball), and it also depend on how you and your swing respond to the added weight. BUT you play a driver who is longer than most on the tour, so a heel impact and slice is quite common on that length and longer, so start by tracing impact spot and take it from there.

[asw7576]

Thank you for everything, I do appreciate it ... I'll try 309 grams this saturday .

[asw7576]

Mmmm , I have question regarding tipping the driver shaft ..... if I cut the tip by 0.5 inch or 1.0 inch max , is it going to affect the "kicking" ? I am worried if cutting the tip 0.5 inch will reduce carry distance .... sorry I don't have technical expertise , this is my 1st time :)

 

Total shaft length, ready to play is 45 inches. I plan to cut from the tip 0.5 inch , and cut from the butt 0.5 inch

[Howard_Jones]

Mmmm , I have question regarding tipping the driver shaft ..... if I cut the tip by 0.5 inch or 1.0 inch max , is it going to affect the "kicking" ? I am worried if cutting the tip 0.5 inch will reduce carry distance .... sorry I don't have technical expertise , this is my 1st time :)

 

Total shaft length, ready to play is 45 inches. I plan to cut from the tip 0.5 inch , and cut from the butt 0.5 inch

 

If it feels good when you grip down, and dont see any need to add weight to the head, cutt all from the butt.

If it feels good at 45, and you want to go 1 inch shorter, and found a need to add head weight for that reason, and wants to keep feel of flex as it was at 45, then you shall tip trim 1/8 for each 2.5 grams you add to the head weight.

 

ONLY if you want it to play stiffer with less forward shaft bending or added dynamic loft, you can tip trim more than that, and then 0.5 "extra" vs added head weight might be good, while 1.0 extra vs added head weight is a lot and will change the feel of the shaft more than you might like.

 

Try to lower your grip 1 inch by using a tape on the grip to mark it 1 inch shorter, try it without added lead tape and with some added weight until you know what you really want and whats works the best for a good impact AND feel

[asw7576]

Okay , thank you so much Sir :)

[apprenti23]

Wait a minute... Absolute Ideal impact is upper toe side?!? cmon HJ... This is downright laughable people. Maybe your ideal miss would be a little high toe, but to tell people that's where they want to hit it is crazy and contradictory to your theory that if you hit on the toe, the club is too long.

[Howard_Jones]

Wait a minute... Absolute Ideal impact is upper toe side?!? cmon HJ... This is downright laughable people. Maybe your ideal miss would be a little high toe, but to tell people that's where they want to hit it is crazy and contradictory to your theory that if you hit on the toe, the club is too long.

 

Toe side impact is often but not always a indicator of a club to short, not to long, i never said that.

 

If you want to hit as long as possible with your driver, this is how its done, and its proven for more than 6 years now where a player even without a positive angle of attack can get over and beyond Trackmans "optimum" numbers for distance as if he had a AoA of 5 up in the ball.

Ive made quite a few drivers this way since 2011, so what can you put up against that? doubts? sorry this is how, and its proven to be right no matter what you might think of it. You even got a reply with Trackman reports to prove it more than a year ago in this tread where i explained down to details how a driver works, so why dont you just try it off?

 

http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/1295166-heavier-shaft-less-spin/

[asw7576]

Wait a minute... Absolute Ideal impact is upper toe side?!? cmon HJ... This is downright laughable people. Maybe your ideal miss would be a little high toe, but to tell people that's where they want to hit it is crazy and contradictory to your theory that if you hit on the toe, the club is too long.

 

Toe side impact is often but not always a indicator of a club to short, not to long, i never said that.

 

If you want to hit as long as possible with your driver, this is how its done, and its proven for more than 6 years now where a player even without a positive angle of attack can get over and beyond Trackmans "optimum" numbers for distance as if he had a AoA of 5 up in the ball.

Ive made quite a few drivers this way since 2011, so what can you put up against that? doubts? sorry this is how, and its proven to be right no matter what you might think of it. You even got a reply with Trackman reports to prove it more than a year ago in this tread where i explained down to details how a driver works, so why dont you just try it off?

 

http://www.golfwrx.c...haft-less-spin/

 

I trust Howard :)

[pingnewbie]

Howard, if I cut off 1" of my M1 shaft (Kuro Kage x-stiff 60), could I just add in weights to the front/back tracks to get the weight back up? I'm sure they would be aftermarket weights off eBay and I'm not sure how many grams to get. Thanks.

 

edit - after doing some research here, cutting 1 inch is 6 SW points. To get back to the original swing weight, I would need to either add 12g to the head or put a grip on that is 24g lighter. I would love some confirmation from someone though. Gracias.

[Howard_Jones]

Howard, if I cut off 1" of my M1 shaft (Kuro Kage x-stiff 60), could I just add in weights to the front/back tracks to get the weight back up? I'm sure they would be aftermarket weights off eBay and I'm not sure how many grams to get. Thanks.

 

edit - after doing some research here, cutting 1 inch is 6 SW points. To get back to the original swing weight, I would need to either add 12g to the head or put a grip on that is 24g lighter. I would love some confirmation from someone though. Gracias.

 

Did you read the first post in this tread? please do, because there is absolutely no indication for that you need to reset the original SW value until you have done the testing needed, and how to do those tests is all in that first post in this tread.

[pingnewbie]

Thanks, I'll re-read. Probably got too excited and didn't finish...

[pingnewbie]

Weight calk

Ex: We have a diver of 46.00 with a 62.5 grams shaft, and whats to simulate a driver of 44.00 using a shaft with 70 grams uncut shaft weight.

- The club you got have a 62.5 grams cut to play 46 gives a net shaft weight of 60.3 grams

- The club we will simulate got a 70 grams, cut to play 44.00" its net Shaft.weight is 64.2 gram

 

Where to add weight

- Shaft B.P on the club you got 22 5/16 MINUS Shaft BP simulated club 21 5/16 = 1.00"

- Shaft B.P on the club you got 22 5/16 PLUS B.P difference x 2 = 24 5/16 = the place to add weight, measured from the grip end on the club you got (before you cut it down)

 

Howard, two quick questions to make sure I understand - can you check my math when simulating weights in this example? If gripping down 2" feels like losing 24g...62.5g shaft - 24g gripping down + 31.5g dimes = 70g simulated? Or are you just adding 7.5g of dimes while simulating and not worrying about the gripping down loss (62.5g + 7.5g dimes = 70g).

 

Also, when the player gets his #s and adds weight 24 5/16 down from the butt end, would you recommend lead tape wrapped around the shaft or something else? Thanks.

[Howard_Jones]

dont mix up where to place the weight.

 

Shaft weight - add it on the shaft

Head weight - add it on the head

 

You loose feel of head weight when gripping down, but it hardly ever needed to replace the original SW value, you was never fitted to play that, so many men is surprised to find them self comfortable with nothing added to the head when going shorter, or only a few grams, so their eyes might rotate when the see a C value on the Sw scale, but its quite common.

 

Testing is whats needed, NOT math on the paper, add weight until it feel right, and during testing, never mind how much weight, just add until it feels right and works, THEN its time to measure how much it was, not before.

 

Original SW values is not a "holy number" or Magic number, so forget it all, just add until it works for you, then you can measure, and be prepared for a surprise :-)

[pingnewbie]

Got it, thank you sir. Here are pics from yesterday testing 5 balls each at length - stock, 1/2 inch, 1 inch, and 1.5 inches. Going to re-test today and mess with tee height. I've narrowed it to somewhere within 1-1.5 inches. 1.5 felt really short!