Torching SS putter: Anyone made it to the blue color Pics added 1-12

[oneaugusta]

I've been refinishing putters both carbon and stainless for a while now and have been able to get the stainless to the browns, reds, and purple coloring to an even finish. I've seen some that have a blue color to them, does anyone know how to make this happen? If so please share.

 

Thanks

 

1-12-14 Finished this putter yesterday, the blue SS finish is a first for me

 

[Sporting chance]

Carbon steel turns blue after only a few minutes of torching, whereas stainless takes much, much longer...maybe 20 minutes plus. Both need polishing to a high shine and degreasing thoroughly before hitting with the torch. Carbon can be oil quenched, stainless is best air drying.

[oneaugusta]

[quote name='Sporting chance' timestamp='1385588134' post='8217864']
Carbon steel turns blue after only a few minutes of torching, whereas stainless takes much, much longer...maybe 20 minutes plus. Both need polishing to a high shine and degreasing thoroughly before hitting with the torch. Carbon can be oil quenched, stainless is best air drying.
[/quote]Thanks, after much research it looks like the temp is about 60 degrees hotter than purple, like 540. Thinking may need to do one section at a time to maintain heat.

[oneaugusta]

Finally found a suitable putter to refinish and will attempt to torch it to the stage blue color. I've done some research and had some help from members and it seems the stages of color as related to time and heat are gold, brown, reds, purple and then finally blue. What got me fixated on this is Byron Morgans stainless blue oil finish, by far my favorite for stainless or carbon.

[LionGolfer]

[quote name='oneaugusta' timestamp='1389400002' post='8438395']
Byron Morgans stainless blue oil finish
[/quote]

I agree that its a lovely finish… only problem is it doesn't last. I know from first hand experience. Lasted less than 8 weeks.

[oneaugusta]

[quote name='LionGolfer' timestamp='1389403239' post='8438651']
[quote name='oneaugusta' timestamp='1389400002' post='8438395']
Byron Morgans stainless blue oil finish
[/quote]

I agree that its a lovely finish… only problem is it doesn't last. I know from first hand experience. Lasted less than 8 weeks.
[/quote]Have you seen this article/topic on puttertalk?[url="http://puttertalk.com/community/index.php?topic=27075.0"]http://puttertalk.com/community/index.php?topic=27075.0[/url] I have refinished many stainless putters and gave them a torched finish, when they get dirty or oily from being handled the coloring appears to be faded or gone but when washed in soap and water the colors come right back. I haven't tried this with the blue oil stainless but by what I read in the puttertalk topic the same care applies.
I was successful with the blue stainless finish last night but will wait to post pictures after I complete the paintfill. Pictures.....coming

[LionGolfer]

I'm not referring to torched finishes as I have never had putters with that finish. My comment is specific to Byron blue oil finish from first hand experience.

I have read that topic ... It didn't work and I should not have to worry about the finish after just 8 weeks of it coming from Byron and one 18 hole round. That of course is my opinion and others may of course disagree.

[oneaugusta]

[quote name='LionGolfer' timestamp='1389445110' post='8440575']
I'm not referring to torched finishes as I have never had putters with that finish. My comment is specific to Byron blue oil finish from first hand experience.

I have read that topic ... It didn't work and I should not have to worry about the finish after just 8 weeks of it coming from Byron and one 18 hole round. That of course is my opinion and others may of course disagree.
[/quote]OK, I'm doing a torched blue finish, what you have is Byron's blue oil finish on Carbon steel, completely different process. The blue oil on carbon is a chemical process, the blue oil on stainless is a heat process. I have a carbon steel 612 with the blue oil finish, your right it is very delicate and must be wiped off and prayed with a good quality silicone spray such as yamalube or it will come off. I got mine in some fertilizer last spring and some of the finish did come off.

[oneaugusta]

Just got the putter shafted up, to me it feels even softer than before, really liking the feel. I'm wondering if the high heat and gradual cooling somehow changed the stainless. Any metal experts out there that can chime in?

[wrbush31]

It does change it. I can't speak to the science, but I've heard it does about a billion times, and usually with a proper explanation.

[Cochese23]

Wow, that really turned out well. Great looking finish on my favorite putter design.

[Apex93]

This looks fantastic - really unique. Thanks for sharing.
How long did you end up torching it for?

[oneaugusta]

[quote name='Apex93' timestamp='1389575764' post='8449211']
This looks fantastic - really unique. Thanks for sharing.
How long did you end up torching it for?
[/quote]Lots of surface prep and I think I spent about 45 minutes of moving slowly around the putter.

[smeech8000]

[quote name='oneaugusta' timestamp='1389566250' post='8448317']
Just got the putter shafted up, to me it feels even softer than before, really liking the feel. I'm wondering if the high heat and gradual cooling somehow changed the stainless. Any metal experts out there that can chime in?
[/quote]

I believe this process is known as annealing, which is supposed to make the metal feel softer. The opposite process - quenching - actually hardens the steel structure.

Not an expert, but I did stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night.

[Canesfan101]

You need to be able to anticipate the blues by the purples. once you get to a certain color, you have to stop because if you get to the blue and you are still torching, then you will probably lose it. stopping at the right time is crucial.

[canadianrick]

That putter looks so awesome. I have the same 2.5 model and am just tired of the look so I think I will give this torching thing a shot. I get that i need to keep it under as much heat as possible and for a long time and that it will change colour as I go along. It might sound stupid, but how do I know what colour it is? I mean, is it obvious that putter will finish whatever colour I heat it to or do I need to remove the flame from it to see the colour? I'm just picturing a torch flame on it and a glowing piece of steel like it coming out of a forge or something. I've never dabbled in anything like this and have no metal working experience at all so if someone could give my thr "torch finish for dummies" version of what to do, i'd appreciate it. cheers

[Paranorml]

[quote name='canadianrick' timestamp='1391722616' post='8611571']
That putter looks so awesome. I have the same 2.5 model and am just tired of the look so I think I will give this torching thing a shot. I get that i need to keep it under as much heat as possible and for a long time and that it will change colour as I go along. It might sound stupid, but how do I know what colour it is? I mean, is it obvious that putter will finish whatever colour I heat it to or do I need to remove the flame from it to see the colour? I'm just picturing a torch flame on it and a glowing piece of steel like it coming out of a forge or something. I've never dabbled in anything like this and have no metal working experience at all so if someone could give my thr "torch finish for dummies" version of what to do, i'd appreciate it. cheers
[/quote]

It's best to do outside under natural light - you won't see a glowing piece of steel instead it will first turn a honey wheat color that will gradually go to more orange/pinkish/red then purple and finally blue if heated enough. You want to make sure to prep the putter head like the OP, the glossier your putter the better it will take the heat and change color. Personally I start on toe or heel and concentrate heat there until I reach purplish then move to the other end of the putter and try to achieve that same color because once I start heating the face I expect that heat to radiate through and take the purple to blue if that's the desired color finish.

First two pics are with natural lighting, last is in the shade. [attachment=2056421:image.jpg][attachment=2056429:image.jpg][attachment=2056431:image.jpg]

[Canesfan101]

Looks good, using MAPP gas will help get the putter hotter quicker. This can help with the blues .

[oneaugusta]

I'm considering doing a torching for dummies series as suggested, maybe write a couple things each day. Please keep in mind it took me many putters to get the process just right and it's really not something you just say "hey I'm gonna take up torching" you need a good place to do it and you need the proper equipment to do it safely and effectively.

[canadianrick]

Thanks for the info. Definitely gives me a better ideal of what i'm going for and how to do it. My family business is a car repair shop (I'm not involved though) so I've got the tools and space to do this properly, just want to make sure I've got as good an idea on how to do it before I potentially ruin a scotty.

[retrogolfrl]

Does anyone know what they use on Scotty's to get the original gray look on the stainless. I now it's boring but that's what I want. I would like to introduce myself. I'm a nube, just got on today. Thanks, retrogolfrl

[smeech8000]

It's just a basic beadblasted finish AFAIK. Not sure about what media (glass probably) or size or psi but I recall others around here being able to recreate the same kind of look as the Studio Select/Style/Stainless series'.

[Snufles]

Thought it was something like crushed walnut shells or something like that.

[smeech8000]

Here's where I read that:

[url="http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/820737-supplies-to-buy-for-glass-bead-blasting-putters"]http://www.golfwrx.c...lasting-putters[/url]

80 grit at 90 psi... although the poster (ws6) doesn't specify what the media is. It sounds like it was glass based on the OP's initial suggestion/assumptions.

[wrbush31]

I've had pretty good blasting success around 90psi using sand. Want to say about 100 grit (have to check the bag). That has given me a good satin look.

I haven't tried my walnut shells or glass beads yet. Chicago just got too cold for me to get to them before Spring. I know crushed walnut is often used for high polish in tumblers, but not sure what I'll get out of the gun.

Before you ask, no, I do not have pictures at the moment.

[mac94]

Anyone ever try putting a head in your gas grill and cranking it up to 500*?

[Sporting chance]

I un-ghosted this Taylormade White Smoke and hit it with the torch...I got the blues, yet not in a uniform pattern. What I did get was a superb array of blues, purples and bronze. If there's a way to keep a uniform heat pattern with a torch, well I've not found it! An oven could help keep an even temperature over the head, however I'm guessing that the higher temperatures needed to get stainless to change to blue might rule out a domestic oven.
Torching also means in most cases sacrificing the insert...so I fabricated a new one out of 3mm carbon sheet.

[oneaugusta]

Conventional ovens don't work real well, maybe a ceramic oven that get much hotter.

Color isn't hard to get but an even finish with color takes work.

[iceman4226]

[quote name='mac94' timestamp='1392745267' post='8694645']
Anyone ever try putting a head in your gas grill and cranking it up to 500*?
[/quote]I'm glad you asked this question I wasd going to ask the same thing. My gas grill will keep a steady 600degF is this enough temp to do a good job. I'm thinking it may be a more even heat. any thoughts

[SUITS]

Anyone trying this on a cleveland classic? I work at a steel shop so I have access to several torches. I am under the impression I need to remove the shaft for this?